El viernes 21 regamos foliarmente con Delta 9 preparándolas para floracion

Hey. I have done first scrog training day 5 of 12/12 light schedule. Looks good. Also, I added co2 box on the bottom of tent and use fan to move it around plants.

Flushed the sleepy joe. Moved in to another tent, harvest was supposed to be in two days, but got budrot in 6 of the biggest colas today. So I had to cut the plant down before and removed the bad buds. It’s drying now and I will look at the buds everyday now. The total wet weight of the plant with the stem was around 3000g and the top buds I removed was 129g wet

Day 37 Everything is going wonderfully. The flowers are getting thicker and thicker and the smell is getting stronger and stronger. Deficiency symptoms from Happiness have not increased any more.

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Well it seems like I have amnesia already with how quickly this one grew and finished, haha. I did a check with the 100x microscope and trichomes are beginning to turn translucent/milky with no amber at all. I noticed this, trimmed up some more fading leaves and got her ready for flush since I had used Beastie Bloomz and Overdrive late in the flowering phase. I need to do some more research on organic alternatives for boosters and be prepared for next time. Usually with a fully organic system there is no need for a flush because of the active rhizosphere and the breakdown of organic substances. I removed the lid containing the net pot, roots and screen that they grew through and had my girl slide a shallow tote underneath. I left an air line/stone with the roots and filled 2 gallons of RO with Clearex which is a commercial flushing agent, mostly composed of citric acid as well as a half of a tsp of Microbes in each gallon. Planning on leaving her like this for a couple days, continuously flushing by the day, pouring from the top of the net pot to fill.

Week four was definitely the week when the plants started to really grow bigger, I started some LST at my way cause even if I check thousands of videos I end it up doing what I thought was better for my plants, I perhaps was a bit late so it wasn’t stretching as I thought it would have, maybe I shouldn’t have wait this long, but again first time learning a lots.. I let the plant grow with LST only in week 4 in week 5 I introduced a scrog I made myself cause I thought that I couldn’t keep doing lst because I started too late

When i came back from vacation the plants seemed to have grown a lot in 10 days. They really started budding. Measured the height of each plant but only plant 4 seemed to have grown 2 cm probably because of the main cola which grew bigger. Decided to defoliate the bottom till middle height leaves which where quite yellow and crispy. Some of them where keeping the buds from getting light. Also i gave them a little nutrients just to see how they react and i think they might need a little. I think they need atleast 2 more weeks but in a few days i will receive my magnifying loupe and then will have a good look at the trichomes how far progress is done. Update 21-07: unfortunately i observed bud rot in plant 1 and 3. At plant 1 it smelled quite bad and had to remove the whole top cola and just in case 2 little cola's beneath the top one. At plant 3 a bud under the main cola was looking a bit brownish and the small leaves attached to it where easy to pull out. So i removed just that cola. Hope the bud rot doesn't jump to the other buds but the coming weather is looking hot and dry. But rot can really happen overnight to become noticeable. See the last pics in the album of this week.

Light fruit smell starting to develop I was told she was bread for breeding and I belive it big bull is heads with thin fragile stalk m. Looks like about a week left a few discoloring a bit!!

After 3 days, when the temperature rose above 11 degrees, I could finally remove the greenhouse from the pet bottle. I did the first fertilizing with Advanced nutrients Voodoo juice, Piranha and Tarantula for better development and protection of the root. Unfortunately, the pet bottle greenhouse, which was dewy and dirty from snail slime, caused the main stem to pull out more than I would have liked. I like it when the main stem is low and immediately starts to form secondary branches

So this lady has achieved such a beautiful shape and I think it's gonna beautiful to see her in full flower, very nice sativa leafs, fast growing plant that responds absolutely fantastic ti training methods and this lady has being flower on DECEMBER 22ND. So let's see how this beautiful bush of amnesia pro Performs!! Wish me luck Everybody!

Beginning of week 13 was harvest time! Checking the trichomes on their main buds led to the decision to harvest them. Almost all of them had already milky looking heads and some of them even turned amber. Their incredibly sour smell was barely tolerable as well. Made the decision to harvest them all at once, so the grow room can be turned into a drying room for them. Since this is considered an experiment after all, we wanted to try out wet trimming as well to compare it to the dry trim we're used to. So considering #3 had the least amount of effort due to the low amount of head buds overall, we choose that one to be wet trimmed. It surely was a very sticky and still time-consuming activity, but we're pretty happy with the result. Can't wait to see and taste them when they're finally ready, dried properly and cured a bit! This is plant #1. In comparison to the others she had the least amount of amber trichomes, with most of them being milky though. She could've enjoyed another week of flower for sure, but for the sake of the others being ready, harvesting them all at once was the only reasonable decision. Plant #1 is one of the dry trim ones. Just made sure to remove the biggest leaves that could prevent a good airflow between the buds when they're hung up.

Coming along well, Day 43 Flower, I've dimmed the lights 10% using a Kill*A*Watt meter. Nutrient wise I've changed it up for the final stretch, to the gallon of 180ppm city tap water, I've reduced Maxibloom to 1/2 teaspoon, I've began adding 1/4 teaspoon KoolBloom powder and 2-3 teaspoons of Diamond Nectar Humic Acids. I don't need to add ph up or down as this mixture puts my ph @ 6.3, EC is currently 1.7. each plant receives a minimum of 1 gallon per day, more often they receive a gallon and a quarter or half, applied with a garden sprayer a quart or 1/2 gallon at a time throughout the day, usually about every 3 hours. I keep about an inch of water in the trays below the plants, roots have penetrated the bottoms of the pots and are in the nutrient solution below-I drain this off completely every 2-3 days to keep it fresh-I've followed this routine many times before with no ill effect, as a matter of fact the plants seem to thrive even more-so I stopped fighting it.

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Week 12 (29-12 to 4-1) 29-12 Temperature: 26.4 degrees (lights on) 20.1 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 72% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: None. 30-12 Temperature: 24.6 degrees (lights on) 18.7 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 71% (highest) 50% (lowest) Watering: None. 31-12 Not at home. 1-1 Temperature: 25 degrees (lights on) 18 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 68% (highest) 45% (lowest) Watering: Both 2000 ml. PH: 5.8 EC: 1.8 As you can see the PH from the feeding water is a bit low, this is because someone suggested that i can try to lower the PH as my PH pen was a bit too high, aswell as my soil PH. Lamp is at 80% and 40 cm distance. Happy new year growmies! 2-1 Temperature: 25.5 degrees (lights on) 18.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 47% (lowest) Watering: None. 3-1 Temperature: 25.2 degrees (lights on) 18.4 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 56% (highest) 49% (lowest) Watering: None. 4-1 Temperature: 26.4 degrees (lights on) 18.8 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 64% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: None. I did a soil slurry test to check my soil PH and EC. I dont know how accurate this is, but these are the results: Water used for the test: PH: 6.5/6.6 EC: 0.0 Biscotti #1: PH: 6.7 EC: 0.8 Biscotti #2: PH: 7 EC: 0.6 No pictures of the plants today.

The Slurricane IX is a beast of a plant to grow, the growth is quick and quite bushy. I would advise to train these plants SCROG..or something.. the stretch is just crazy..im gona say prepare for a 200% + stretch. Thy will easily get out of of control if not managed well. Pest resistance is good, i did not have any bug problems, but i did have a small WPM issue, but it was very crowded in there. Sorted it out by defoliation and a treatment of hydrogen peroxide took care of the problem. Very thirsty plants, at there peak, 9 plants was drinking 110L a week. Very stong smelling plants. Extremely dense flowers covered in a sluricane of trichomes. Harvest of the plant is quite easy, not a very bushy cola..so its a easy trim. Overall a great genetic to grow and a beautiful plants in itself. @InHouseGenetics .. superb. Thank you guys so much for giving us the privilege to grow such amazing genetics. Keep up the great work. Happy growing. 😁 😜

She is doing great. This is the week 10 of flowering already! I can't believe that I've been taking care of her for about 4 months already! Her trichomes are getting milkier by the day. I am waiting for there to be some amber and many milky trichomes to harvest her, that's all... Same care and same nutes as always. -------> Update day 109. I decided to harvest her today. I see some trichomes going amber already in many of the buds, and the rest are mostly cloudy. I could leave her growing those buds for a week or maybe more... However, the blueberry indica that I harvested before planting this girl had a very strong body high, so I am looking to get a very head high from this girl. Actually, I've sampled this girl twice already, once three weeks ago, and another two weeks ago, and both were a decent high, very much how I remember it from this strain. Actually, the effect of the last sample reminded me much of the high I got the first time I smoked Amnesia Haze! So, a week after that I suspect the high will be on point, for what I want from it. ------> The end? I decided to try to reveg this girl just as an experiment... Actually, I am even going to try to make one of her clones produce pollen to create my own feminized seeds from this absolutely delicious genetics :)

Die Lemon Cherry Gelato hat sich trotz ihrer Herausforderungen wunderbar entwickelt und sieht gesund aus. Klar, das Training ist sehr anspruchsvoll und die extrem kurzen Nodienabstände machen das Ganze zu einer echten Puzzle-Aufgabe, aber leicht kann ja jeder. Sie ist jetzt schön kompakt aber wir hoffen das sie durch den Stretch doch noch an Höhe gewinnt. Wir haben uns für eine gewisse Radikalität entschieden und ihr beide Seitentriebe genommen, um die Pflanze auf eine Achse zu stellen. Und, wer hätte es gedacht? Sie nimmt es gelassen und zeigt sich gesund und stark, als hätte sie nie etwas anderes gekannt. Der enge Wuchs gibt ihr eine sehr solide Form, und auch wenn sie noch ein bisschen klein und buschig ist, freuen wir uns auf das, was da noch kommt. Vielleicht bleibt sie klein, aber sie wird auf jeden Fall topfit und ein echtes Highlight in unserem Zelt werden! :-)

Last week, my pound cake auto plant totally exploded with growth! It's insane how much it's changed. I swear it grew several inches overnight. The leaves are this gorgeous shade of green, and the whole thing looks super healthy and happy. I'm seriously so proud of my little plant baby.