todo muy bien! esperando paciente el desarrollo de los cogollos, conociendo y viendo los puntos de maduracion asi como la fertilizacion ajustando a su maximo que creemos posible para incentivar que los cogollos engorden, ahora en adelante les hare segumiento de la grande principalmente, que es la que cumple con la edad del diario, ya que las otras como se explico en un principio venian recien cultivadas por eso tienen un par de semanas de retraso , tambien hay una hermafrodita, que al detectar como comentamos semanas anteriores aplicamos al tecnica vista de un cultivador mexicano, consistia en romper los brotes de machos las pelotas con el fin de que no vuelvan a salir, dejando solo los pelos estigmas de las hermbras, si bien el cogollo queda maltratado, al parecer se detiene el crecimiento, asi que estamos viendo como rinde ese experimento.

wow!!!!! she's amazing :) her buds already look stiff, and she's still ripening :) Zamnesia Runtz auto is great for small spaces, I can also smell her amazing scent, I have no doubt that she'll have a great smoke :) the girl will only get 6.3ph water from now on, -washing :) I think she has about 2 weeks left until the finish :) I can't take all the credit for it, my Cat helps me :) watch the video :).

5.haftadan selamlar. Ilk green room deneyisimde isiklar tam bitkilerin ustune oturmuyor ama someklerin daha fazla sisecegini umuyorum. Son kez big bug verildi.overdrive ile desteklenicek tuz gibi thc birikimi.

So this round I just lollipopped and didn’t strip the top at all, with better veg next round it’ll work better but I’m having issues with some plants not quite trellised how I’d like. Everything smells great, BCS,BD and WM are getting fat and PKB is frosty and tight. Watering is more of a chore than I’d like I think I’m just going to use some 5s for the next round . Thanks for following along I hope your buds are fat and frosty.

Day 40: I returned from a weekend, finding now (luckily) much slower height but an impressive bud growth. Nothing special to report except for I lowered lady #2’s lights a bit. She is now some visible cms behind her sister (who has 83 cm), and maybe that helps to compensate her (still very nice) growth. Gave them another round of fertilised water, still with some HPE, during day 40. I could see in timelapse video they immediately gained fuller leaf positions and some progress. But sadly, as it’s quite warm here, main blower kicked in often, ruining the video to be much too shaky to show. Day 42: Nothing special again. Slow height gain (84 cm), steady bud growth. Day 43: I noticed the lowest leaves getting a bit pale. While this is perfectly ok on one hand – not much light to collect there anyway –, I think I will increase fertiliser portion a bit next time they are thirsty. At the end 85 cm in tallest main bud. Day 44 concludes this week. Not much to report except for what was already said. Slow but steady growth, a tiny bit of yellowing on the very lowest leaves and thirst about 1 l/day. This week was very hot, but the last day brought some cooling. Would be nice to have a timelapse video again that does not look like camera Raspi had Parkinson’s (when main blower is active).

Chopped Wednesday the 11th. Trimmed and began curing the 21st. 4oz of super dense sticky bud. 1 pound of high grade trim and 2 oz of low grade trim. This plant was truly strange the places it chose to grow Trichomes. Stay tuned because I will be making hash with the high grade trim. Also will be uploading smoke score in two weeks Thank you to anyone who followed and god bless!

So far so good,topped at 1 week.Getting busy with lst soon.👍

Hi guys, so I chopped the little gelatocake 3 days ago and its hanging in 55% humidity and 15°f, I have taken a sample bud, you no how it is lol. Sherbert mimosa are struggling along and going purple 💜 bit cold here lately, starting to fatten up a bit now, the baby photos are growing fast but need repoting. Happy growing guys 💜💚💪

Definitely love the colours on this girl. Very true to her name, very dark purple/black. 10/10 would grow again

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

to mutch cold here 2 week with low temps at night cicle betwen 12 &16 graus in europe. maybe this is the reason of that purple orange colors (:

Hello everyone 😎 Week 5 of flower for the RuntzZz🌸 Love the smell super fruity & creamy🤤 For the nutrient it’s time for Green Sensation 1ml/L🚀 just a coincidence for the Runtz X Green Sensation😝

Entlaubt und LsT bei 2 von 3 Ladys , Netz eingebracht nächste Woche Blüte beginnen

Alle 3 vokser som de skal, jeg har valgt tage en i 12/12 telt:) og en 18-6 telt:) og den 3 er i 18-6 telt også men , er i en 3.5liter potte. Også ser vi på forskellen igen om en 5-7 dage :) Jeg er SIKKER PÅ DEN I 12-12 telt giver størst uds men mindst ud bytte! Og om vendt ved 18-6. Timer! Håber i nyder at følge med og godt nytår husk NU DE SMP BANGE DYR ! Og HINDANDEN OG JER SELV OG LAD NU VÆRE TÆNDE KRUDT MED JERES JOINTS DET SMADER DEN BARE;) JEG taler DESVÆRRE AF EFARING ;)

Hi all, My second week posting on here. Just to confirm that the plants are in London, in a basement. 38 plants in a room approximately 4 meters my 3 meter. It’s been a busy one! Lots of jobs done, tho not sure if I’m getting things right... if you’d like to comment please feel welcome to make suggestions, or call me and my ideas stupid lol SATURDAY At the start of the week I started pruning the plants. I removed all buds, leafs and non-main branches from the bottom 20% of the plants. MONDAY After giving the plants a couple of days to recover and so I was sure my pruning didn’t have a negative affect I started removing small buds and all of the older fan leafs from the rest of the plants I started a different watering routine today after learning that the humidity was too high. It was between 65-85. Cropping a lot of the leafs off the plants helped, so did installing fans to suck air in from outside. Also I stopped leaving buckets of water in the grow rooms. Yesterday I did not water the plants at all. So this morning they were all very dry, but looks good too. Today they had a lot to drink. Added more circulation fans too. Anyway, managed to get the humidity to 40 when lights on, and up to 60 when off. Still working on bring it down to below 50 at night. WEDNESDAY Finished pruning today. With half the plants I took off 65% of the leafs, stems and buds, leaving only the bigger bud areas and sugar leafs, plus a few fan leafs.

Buenas a tod@s... 3ra semana de floración de la famosa critical, de momento van bien, algunas hojas oxidadas a esta altura pero creo q es normal, eh podido regular bien la comida( a mí creer) y eh visto mejoras en las variedades, no las noto como antes q estaban como decaídas y se las veia agobiadas, las veo bien y en esta tercera semana se ve claramente la diferencia... Los nutrientes utilizados se ve q son la bomba... 🙌🏻👌🏻 La semana q viene más y mejor, se están poniendo hermosas...❤️ Muchas gracias y buenos humos para todos... 💨💨🇦🇷🤝🏻🇪🇦 🏻‍♂️

-3/26/23 Start of Week --Week 1 -3/28/23 (day 10) --Observations: spade leaves looking healthy and first set of shade leaver are coming in. has stopped growing vertically and has started focusing on leaf growth, leaves growing at a good speed. --changes: sprayed with Miracle-Gro performance organics all purpose plant nutrients at a concentration of 1/4 Tsp to 10 oz of water. --Diary Entry: still growing at a good rate, doesn't seem like much transplant shock if any at all. sprayed with nutrient water twice, the second time was just for the photograph. will wait two days before spraying again, will be looking for signs of nutrient burn. -3/30/23 (day 12) --Observations: has slowed down on vertical growth. --Diary Entry: took the picture for today with a different lens than the last photo. watered without the nutrients, sprayed with the nutrient water. -4/1/23 (Day 14) --Observations: seems to have slowed down on growth rate, could have just been explosive early growth. firsty set of shade leaves are looking good, still seems to not be having problems with the nutrient spray given once to twice a day. --Diary Entry: several close up photos this week and im glad that fast Buds made a comment on the fast flower contest about needing a video every week. would have been upset if I would have been disqualified at the end because of something as silly as not having any videos of the plant. -4/1/23 End of Week