Well I've done a final tie down going to give them 5 days to a week and then flip them into flower, they react to training so well and are so flexible, think these are going to be one of the best looking ones the training on the bigger plant looks ace, roll on next week, flower time

So this and last week was all about dialing and maintaining temperature and humidity.. It's been quite hard to get the precise temperature and humidity because my growing closet is packed...My Gawd.. So she finally has Milky Trichs between the middle of her... The one thing that I wanted to test... So as I mentioned my closet is stacked lol so I decided to Chop off her 2 main Colas..Unfortunately I think my Grow light was placed too close to her canopy.. Which caused the two Main Colas trichomes to turn about 30% amber.. So this is a good trial to see if this will cause the smaller collas to fatten.. Keeping fingers crossed 🤞 🔀

So I flipped them 2 weeks ago, they grew nearly 10 centimetres in a week and I was running out of space so I read a bit about super cropping and gave that a go. Waters up to 2 litres every 2 days, feeding 2 out of 3

Gave her a nice LST+Defoliation session after the week 1 of flower stretch! She's currently drinking a 1 gallon dosage of the above listed nutes, every 4-5 days!

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

I feel sorry for my plans this 2 weeks I haven't been able to look after them properly I've been working long shift with Christmas approaching there's no time for anything so I was pushing in a lot of nutrients into them and I caused a nutrients lockout .I have flush them out with just clean water at the right pH 6.5 and they are responding very well from now on I will continue to Baby them so they gave the best result possible within the circumstances of the plants. Thank you for reading I will continue to update have a happy grow

Pretty happy so far, kept EC the same as there was a slight tip burn when I tried to up the nutrients.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Le LST est fini mon tronc en forme de colonne vertébrale fais un tour sur lui meme (vidéo jour32) cette forme me satisfait pleinement je décide donc de retirer la majorité des fil de fer servant au LST Le pincage d'Apex offre à la plante une canopé homogène (photo jour 32 34) Jour33 arrosage avec 2 litres d'eau ph6 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.5ml de topmax biobizz (dosage très léger pour ne pas provoquer un lock-out) cela favorisera son entrée en floraison. J'effectue une légère defolliation pour permettre une meilleure pénétration lumineuse aux apexs du bas. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Que la force soit avec vous 💪

Rainbow melon what can I say? Fast buds has outdone themselves with these fem photos I’ve grown a few other genetics, but fast buds checks all the boxes plants almost grow them themselves🔥💪

The spider mites have done alot of damage to my garden, i got rid of most of them though but just a little too late. Also the plant i took out of the tent started drooping and yellowing very fast so i flushed it but don’t know what caused it if anyone has any tips let me know thank you & btw am i the only one who had his white widow turn purple? I’ve never seen it before

HEY GANG UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!! SOOO the girls are looking great I'm super pumped on these 2 girls I've been doing nutrient feeds one on one off so basically alternate nutrient feedings, looks really great stepped up water feeding to one gallon of water per plant, but other then that things are progressing really great keep it going growmies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So it has begun... I've had to start utilizing string to hold up branches by tying them to the ceiling rods and surrounding equipment. These plants are healthier and happier than my first grow, so I wasn't quite expecting them to blow up like they did, therefore my single-layer screen was not enough to support the branches. Not to mention the net used was store-bought and kind of sucks. I prefer my double-layer from the first harvest. The Mimosa is packing on some major frost, followed closely by the Glookies. American Pie trichomes seem to appear and ripen much closer to the ending stages of flower.

Tried this strain from a dispensary one time, was a very enjoyable daytime strain that I look forward to smoking again, will look to take clones to at some point during veg Durban Poison—The Legend Unmasked The name and origin of this invigorating strain lie in Durban, a coastal city in South Africa. The following table breaks down Durban Poison’s basic properties. Strain: Sativa. Aroma: Piney, Sweet, Citrusy. Effect: Energizing, Uplifting, Focusing. Typical THC Content 18%–20% Whether you need to tackle a large project, boost your mood, or channel your inner adventurer, Durban Poison is the way to go. It offers a powerful stimulating high with light relaxation to clear your mind. It won’t make you drowsy or sedated, so it’s perfect for daytime use. You should avoid it in the evenings unless you plan on pulling an all-nighter. Durban Poison has a moderate amount of THC but enough to color your day in vibrant colors. Still, the strain’s cannabinoids are only one piece of this lively puzzle. If you want Durban Poison to shine in its full glory, you should leverage its numerous and potent terpenes. Take note "peak terpene" is roughly 2 weeks prior to "peak THC" which we use as a guideline for traditional harvest. Terpenes in Durban Poison Each Cannabis strain—and every other plant—produces aromatic hydrocarbons that give it a distinct aroma and flavor profile. Terpenes can’t get you high, but Cannabis-derived ones help cannabinoids (THC and CBD) penetrate the blood-brain barrier more easily so they can bind to your endocannabinoid receptors (primarily CB1). The interplay between the two compounds is called the entourage effect, and it causes a stronger, more accentuated buzz than cannabinoids can induce alone. Only a tiny portion of all Cannabis terpenes have been researched, but the results are fascinating. Each terpene enriches your experience differently, and Durban Poison has an eclectic mix of these mighty compounds. Terpinolene Durban Poison is one of the few strains where terpinolene is a dominant terpene. Cannabis typically produces it in lower quantities, so it usually plays a supporting role. Herbaceous and floral terpinolene offers relaxation and clarity, so it’s partially responsible for the strain’s serene nature. Myrcene Myrcene has always been synonymous with sedation and sleepiness, so finding it in such an invigorating strain might seem strange. It makes more sense when you know that these effects occur if the terpene makes for over 0.5% of the plant’s total weight. This isn’t the case with Durban Poison, so myrcene is tamer than in other strains, adding subtle stress-relief properties. Pinene Alpha and beta-pinene are among the main terpenes in Cannabis, the former being more common. Besides giving Durban Poison refreshing undertones, pinene isomers offer focus and mental clarity, which is what the strain is all about. Limonene Omnipresent in the citrus family, limonene gives plants a sweet-citrusy aroma. When you take a whiff of Durban Poison, you can feel its notes underneath the dominant pine scent. As for effects, limonene plays an antagonist to myrcene and is the embodiment of sativa strains. It increases your energy and lifts your spirits to pump you up for the day. Valencene Limonene’s lesser-known sibling, valencene was initially discovered in Valencia oranges. It’s sweeter than limonene and more representative of Durban Poison’s overall aroma. Valencene also has energizing cerebral effects, so its role is essential to the strain. Ocimene This is another secondary terpene that most strains—including Durban Poison—don’t have in abundance. Still, ocimene can be a potent stimulant, so its scarcity doesn’t make it any less important. New garden inspired by MiyaguiOkPolilla TORUS What Is The Heart’s Toroidal Field? The heart is the most powerful source of electromagnetic energy in the human body and the magnetic fields produced by the heart have been shown to be involved in energetic communication (also referred to as cardioelectromagnetic communication). Research done at HeartMath Institute (HMI) suggests that the heart’s electrical field is approximately 60 times greater in amplitude than the electrical activity created in the brain and is an important carrier of information. More and more studies are finding that the heart may be as complex as the brain is- the heart actually sends more communication to the brain than the brain sends information to the heart! Our thoughts and emotions affect the heart’s magnetic field, which energetically affects those in our environment, whether we are conscious of it or not. The heart has approximately 40,000 neurons and has the ability to process, learn and remember. It has its own emotions and in the field of neuro-cardiology, researchers are learning more about the “intuitive” nature of the heart and how we can apply this information to the relationships we have with ourselves and with others all around us. From the inside, your heart emanates an extremely powerful toroidal energetic field and it has been scientifically measured to go out as far as 5 miles from your heart. This magnetic field is involved in energetic communication, a direct extension from your heart to everyone and everything. In my practice, I like to reference this field as a visual to depict and take in how we are all connected and one and also, individually, whole and complete. I find that once this connection is made, we can easily see how we matter and our choices count and how choosing to live in alignment with our selves can create a robust state of health and expansion- making the fundamentals more impactful, as we move into new moments knowing that we can intentionally empower our ecosystems, with the healing energies of presence-courage-appreciation-compassion, love, etc. which extends from us, by way of our heart, to the world and to each other. From the inside, your heart emanates an extremely powerful toroidal energetic field and it has been scientifically measured to go out as far as 5 miles from your heart. The heart’s magnetic field is the strongest rhythmic field produced by the human body. From HMI’s findings, research has shown that the timing between pulses of the heart’s magnetic field is modulated by different emotional states- these studies have also shown that the magnetic signals generated by the heart have the capacity to affect individuals around us. It is also important to note that the heart is not that only source that can emit this type of electromagnetic field- every atom emits the same torus field: people, trees, the earth, the sun, the universe! We can apply this knowledge and use it as an opportunity to go within, connect, quiet the mind, regulate the brain and tap into our heart’s center. What Does A State Of Coherence Look Like? According to the HMI Research Director Dr. Rollin McCraty, “Coherence is the state when the heart, mind and emotions are in energetic alignment and cooperation. It is a state that builds resilience.” When parasympathetic and sympathetic systems are out of sync because one is filled with emotions such as anger, anxiety or frustration, this produces an erratic rhythm or what can be referred to as an incoherent state. Positive emotions such as compassion and love generate a harmonious pattern in our heart’s rhythm, leading to coherence and greater emotional regulation. When these harmonious interactions exist among our bodies’ systems, this is referred to as physiological coherence. As this increases, so does the brain’s alpha activity, which in turn supports us. When we allow our conscious awareness to be in our heart center, we can begin to shift our perspective from what is to what can be and realize what is actually possible. When your torus field is healthy and spinning in all directions with no obstruction, this generate an infinite amount of energy, vitality and life force- creating inner balance and raising our vibration. Your torus field can also act as a form of energetic protection- operating as a “force field” that can shield and dispel any negativity. A simple visualization exercise can help you become more aware of your torus energy field. Imagine drawing energy upward from the ground (the Earth) through your feet down a central column. Imagine this bright light going up your entire center from your feet and out through the crown of your head. Then, imagine something like a water fountain where this light is pouring out of the crown of your head and all around you, going back down to the Earth and then up again through your feet again. Imagine this upward energy for a couple of minutes or until you feel comfortable. Do you see, sense or feel the energy pouring out around you? Let Your Heartbeat Be Your Reminder As we move forward each day, remember that you can always take a moment to place your hands over your heart to recenter, reassure and empower yourself. Here, you can feel your heartbeat, open up and shift accordingly. This is a new era, where we can write and live a collective, new story- much like a portal in time, where light can be blinding, healing, eye opening, and freeing all at once- and the earth seems to be rearranging itself, as we continue to awaken and reorient- called to remember who, what and where we truly are. Rediscovering the power that has been within, not outside of, ourselves all along. The idea that power, or even freedom, lies outside of the self is just an illusion that we, as a collective, have made into our reality. Just. Opt. Out.

Here I was transplanting from solo cups to one gallon fabric pots they took very well to it. Didn't see no transplant stress.

Watermelon auto is doing good after the mites. She is growing great under the Medic grow mini sun 2 in the Gen 1:11 nutrition. She got her roots trimmed, lst, and some defoliation. She is making a great come back. Thank you Medic Grow, Gen 1:11, and Royal Queen Seeds. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

This will be her first full week in flower. She has started to produce sugar leaves. It's pretty exciting to see trichomes this early in bloom.

Reducing water to 5l every 3-4 days. Glookies just builds leaves and little bud but alot of trichomes...

2018.12.07 - Clone Day 68 - Flowering Day 16 I'm struggling with how to address the significant difference in height between #5 and the rest of them. I much prefer growing from seeds, where I know how to top, manifold, and LST to create an even canopy layer.

Top-dressed the pots today and watered in the amendments so they can start breaking down and feeding. Took off a few leaves to open airflow and ease the humidity. The fresh intake is bringing in some muggy air, so conditions are still on the damp side—might be time to pick up a dehumidifier to keep things steady. I’m no expert, but the color looks good so far. Just trying to stay on top of things and give the nutrients time to kick in. Tent is starting to smell a bit dank.