Buds still quite small, but their smell is quite powerful. Lower leaves are yellowing.

last week only feeding water trichomes level is low but plant looks healthy and strong loving the smell coming off her waiting to harvest

Es geht in die Blüte 😃 Ich kenne den Strain noch nicht und rechne trotz topping mit einer starken Streckung in den erst ca. 4 Wochen. Ich liebe es ja jedes Mal zu sehen wie schnell sich die Pflanzen entwickeln und nach Umstellung des Lichts verändern. Ab jetzt werde ich bei jedem gießen den Mineralischen Dünger von Plagron verwenden. Trauermücken nerven hart sollten aber dank fressfeinden bald Geschichte sein. Ich bin gespannt 😉

Well, Surprised by the size at the second week. As my second time growing in indoor, the first time I try with 5.5lt smart (fabric) pots with BioBizz Tripack. At the harvest, only the Torpedo was the biggest (the other was Mamba Negra, Stress Killer) size of crops (2,5 cm diameter). The smell is quite light, as fresh lemon or ment. The leaf are more light than the first Week. The torpedo is growing up more, same at the first time I grow it (Sorry for my english, I can't specific more details),

So as i said , this is a great strain that i love so much ! He grew so good , so comfortable , all the way from tge start to the end , 0 problems ! I had some work on the scrog net all the way on the first month of flowering ,but it was worth it ! For sure !

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Looking For a Keeper cream of the crop seeds purple paralysis 10th March 2021 So Far So Good for these two , it hasn't rained again since the last downpour but the clouds hanging around this afternoon look very ominous indeed. 😐 I only water early morning now so that the soil is fairly dry again on top by the time the sun sets in the evening. this is to limit the extra moisture that could hinder the plants resistance to mold . I also gave them a good old feed of my Worm castings tea mixed with Mollasses & Seaweed mix. 💪💪 Cheers for stopping by 👍

Total de Dias 15 - 17/08/2021 / Inicio da 3º semana Total de Dias 16 - 18/08/2021 Total de Dias 17 - 19/08/2021 / Rega Total de Dias 18 - 20/08/2021 Total de Dias 19 - 21/08/2021 / Rega com 2ml de calmag apenas por prevenção Total de Dias 20 - 22/08/2021 Total de Dias 21 - 23/08/2021 / Rega

Lunes 19 de Agosto 2024 Se le aplico la semana pasada aparte de bases ph perfect un poco de Armor Si y CaliMagic pará reforzar su estructura.

New week for the Fast bud 420 The CBD crack the cheese and purple lemonade are a couple days further into the stretch and getting tall. The rest definitely have some stretching to go. I come to realize tho and i already semi knew it that this is probably gone be the only autoflower run i will do The strains that have 35 of veg and 30 to 40 flowering are perfect as auto flower quick turnaround On the other hand tho auto flower that take 65 to 70 of Flowering are not in my opinion this is as long as normal photoperiod plant and that gets way bigger more yield etc . I don't see the point of growing a autoflower with 60 days of flowering Then just get a photoperiod Strain and let it Flower week 4 ore when ever you want Control control control 6/11/22 Did some light defoliation 2 to 4 leafs per plant 9/11/22 So far it all goes without any issues I my self is Struggling a lil bit with what ore when to feed some nutrients because of shorter flowering time by some don't want to over feed them to much so flushing don't take for ever 10/11/22 Stretch update cheese strain is not stopping as you see here in back middle she now around 110cm More updates Tru the week Happy growings growmies

📆 Semana 3 Las plantas continúan el estiramiento con gran intensidad, alcanzando gran parte de su altura final durante esta semana. La dominancia apical mantenida hasta el inicio de floración sigue reflejándose en una estructura vigorosa y bien organizada, con ramas secundarias que se desarrollan con fuerza y ocupan progresivamente todo el espacio disponible bajo la iluminación. Los primeros grupos florales comienzan a definirse con claridad en las puntas de crecimiento, marcando la transición entre el crecimiento explosivo de las primeras semanas y el inicio de la formación de cogollos. Las plantas de mayor tamaño muestran una demanda superior de calcio y magnesio debido a su elevado ritmo metabólico y a la mayor exposición lumínica, realizándose pequeños ajustes para mantener un desarrollo equilibrado. ⚡ EC: 1.6 – 1.7 💧 pH: 6.2 – 6.5 🌡️ Temp: 21°C 🌫️ Humedad: 45–50% 💡 Intensidad: 900–1000 PPFD 🔥 Nota de cultivo: La tercera semana suele marcar el final del gran estiramiento y el comienzo de la verdadera fase de producción floral. Mantener una nutrición estable y corregir rápidamente cualquier demanda adicional de calcio y magnesio ayudará a sostener el vigor de las plantas más desarrolladas y a preparar una floración abundante y homogénea. Seguimos creciendo fuerte 💪!

Things are moving right along! We're definitely into flower now. All three plants are flowering strong and the Amnesia is starting to spread out. The other two are going to be very dense plants. I think perhaps I should have started LST a bit sooner on the Quarter Pounder. It's so dense I can't really separate it. They are taking a lot of water. I feel like I could be doing 1.5 gallons each and it barely goes to run off. Is that a good thing? * Watering a bit over 1 gallon each every 2 days * Top fed 1.5 tbs each 3 gal pot with Dr Earth Life. This is under the recommended amount but last time I got nute burn. * Top dressed with additional FFOF

Amazing old school strain. Cakes to the stem and oily to the touch. All buds are rock hard and freakin hand size. Taste is of harsh lemon while some are more haze. Both pheno tastes are great imo. This turned out great and would grow again in the future. If only trimming were easier with this one.

The bud smells like candy in a jar! Very impressed with how this lady turn out, took her a little while for the buds to fatten up but I’m glad I gave her a little extra time because she definitely filled out more! Buds are extremely dense & sticky and definitely has a couch lock high! Can’t wait to grow this again using a full nutrient line & see how she does! Make sure to go check out Doctors Choice for some amazing genetics! Thanks for following & happy growing friends!🙏🏼✌️🏼🌱

The plants are stressed AF and after more research from being here I'm seeing the problems. I got another fan and put it on the intake duct so that air was being actively pushed in rather than passively from the other fan which only takes air out. And then I got a photometer app called photone. So I fixed it until it read 100 on the PAR meter which the guys at the grow place told me was good. Now with this hygrometer I can pay attention to this and maybe set up alerts for when the VPD exceeds a certain range.

Hello friends, I planted this plant as an experiment as you can see but today in day 17 from seed i decided to share this growth here coz it surprised me with the so far growth. Sorry for lacking photos from week 1 but i didnt take pictures.. she is under the sun whole day and 4 hours 250w HPS... and as you can see some leaves curled in coz she is too young for 250W hps 25 cm from her.. So far I foliar fed her and regularly watered, dilluted 2ml/L of B-52, 2 ml/L fitobacillus (essential bacterias and enzymes) and foliar sprayed her. With every watering so far i put 2ml/l fitobacillus and 2ml/ B-52 and mycorhizae in the very first and second watering. As you can see her main stem is already fatter than average for that time of growth and the root mass is so dense and thick, also many many hairs ready to absorb some nutes so tmrw will be her first nutes dosage, day 18 that will be from seed. I am hoping only that the pot size will not restrict her growth, as the roots already reached the bottom and started to curl back in.. but their colour is bright white and i have no worries bout rot or similar, at least so far so good :D Stay tuned brothers and sisters, all my grows are for you in order to learn ultra fast all the interesting and mind intriguing stuff by following only one grower. @James drop an eye here, you did a good job with genetics on this one.. Kisses to all from white and Team Wolfpack 😎✌️ UPDATE same day LOL I decided to transplant her to a 3 gallon fabric pot coz those roots got me so surprised and i prepared a good nutes mix for them.. you can see the health potion in the video that contains myco and nutes UPDATE 10.10.2107. Today i applied some more lst to maximally expose side branches to the sun. You will see some interesting pics and vids explaining my low stress training technique. I blv this plant's main goal in life to be LST'd. Dont be afraid, side branches will be thankfull and your harvest will be thankfull.. You can se some lst with side branches and how i tucked the leaves and made sure they stay there using the green wire and forming that shape on the pic. Today i also noticed a white hair showing up, still not sure if it is starting to flower in her DAY 19 from seed, or is it just "stress defending mechanism". Seems to me i will find out soon :)

First 2 transplanted I’ll do the other 3 or 4 soon 6 for 6 Go Fast Buds!!! Strawberry Bannana for the win!!

dia 61. lst realizado nuevamente. alimentandose con 16ml/L de NPK y una cda/5L de melaza. en una semana le meto red scrog. pienso darle unos 20 dias más de vege como minimo.