Absolutely blown away by the new 2025 setup, prev ran 3 tents 😂, switched to AC Ifinity 2,4 x 1,2 single tent, 3 x 150 or 6“ fans. Fans all port outside, 2 exhaust with yet uncoupled carbon filters, 1 inlet with pollen filter. 6-7 air push fans (not all yet on 😂). SpiderFarmer 16L humidifier, inkbird RH control, inkbird heat control, heater, trotek dehumidifier (12L) with drain line and reservoir. Blumat system with RO fed 20L water butt, each pot with 3 long ceramic blumats. Data logger from SensorPush including WiFi hub and 4 sensors. One in cellar room (lung room), one above each plant canopy. Setup logger n sensors and track VPD. System running itself

14. Woche, P1 fällt morgen, die ist soweit gut denke ich (ca. 20% aufwärts Bernstein Trichome). P2 braucht leider noch ca. 1 woche länger. 93. Tag ist für P1 das Ende, sie wurde heute vorgetrimmt und zum trocknen aufgehängt. Ergebnisse gibt es wenn die P2 auch geerntet wird, denke nächste Woche um die Zeit. Aber eins kann ich euch versichern, is mit Abstand die schwerste die ich ist jetzt hatte😊🍀🍀. Gebt euch auch mal wie viele Trichome die gute produziert hat, Duft is noch sehr pflanzlich, Blüten sind ziemlich fest gewesen hoffe das es nach dem trocknen noch so ist. Alles in allem super Run. Hoffentlich is die gute bei den Top 10 das wäre ein träumchen, wobei ich es wirklich jedem gönne zu gewinnen und bei soviel starker Konkurrenz geht ich wahrscheinlich unter. ABER was ein geiler Contest trotzdem, hier ein dickes fettes Dankeschön an Zamnesia und Plagron für die Möglichkeit hier überhaupt mitmachen zu dürfen 🙏💙💜 98. Tag , werd die gute am Samstag/Sonntag je nachdem wie ich Zeit finde, umlegen und zum trocknen aufhängen.

Had to give my setup to a friend. He finished the grow for us. Turned out to be 55g On 40cmx40cmx120cm

Well I had significant growing issues during this grow. I feel I could of done a lot better. What I do have smells good. Plus Is frosty. I am just not a big Amnesia Haze fan. Personal preference though. The Viparspectra P4000 light worked great as has prior. Thanks again Viparspectra, and Expert Seeds 🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. 🍻🌱👍 Happy Growing 🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Ready for harvest in 3 days.. Going for 30 hours of darkness before bringing them down. Hoping for good smoke, buds look a bit small.🌱🎋 Oh well, better luck next time, lol..🧐

Got her perfect to start flowering

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

I tied down and defoliated twice in the week and have switched to 12-12 yesterday so they’re transitioning now and should be in bloom by week 7! I made some extract them made some gummies successfully I might add and added the photos in the diary!

Super cropped and defoliated , realoy looking amazing i did have a nutrient build up start to happen and i flushed it on nov 10 and nov 11 , still has slight symptoms of too much nitrogen , temps been sitting at 73 at night and 77 with lights on gave just water today will see how it looks after its dry and i may flush twice again

She is looking amazing 🤩 The buds are covering the whole steams, the colour is a bit orange🍊 bud are everywhere, what a little monster 😁👌

Week 10

Days 99 - 105 (from sprout) 8/30/24 - 9/5/24 Raised light above canopy of The Good Shit - PAR on main tops is 800-700+ while remaining lowers are seeing closer to 450-500 Loompa's Headband x TK fading to a close this week - trichome check starting to show amber on the bracts Sweet 16 S1 now starting senescence and a little fading on some fan leaves The Good Shit showed signs of some overwatering, so a newly made FPE was added to feed schedule to assist the microbiology Light schedule lowered to 10 hrs this week IPM: Applied enzymes (tweetmint) at a rate of 0.5 fl oz to 1/2 gallon and sprayed on cover crops + mulch throughout the week. Significant decrease in pest population, now needs a high quality compost top dressing for long term correction

Well the genetics from this line still continue to impress me they are quick germinating seeds and have a fast growth rate once in the ground . I wanted to try these strains for a while and was hoping this would be a great to smoke . I'm not disappointed at all it's got great terps and Dense buds with sticky trichomes . The plant grew like an indica in fan leaf shape but had long colas almost like a sativa .. The grow was organic for the most part and gave me the chance to try a legendary strain . She had a great outdoors presence its a gorgeous flower to run outdoors had no issues with the bud rot and pm was almost never there .. That being said better training with a more steady feeding. Line up would have gotten me a better harvests but for now I'm happy with it .. next year I will do a few more strains I got left ( stinkin bishop )

Decided to give these a few more days, was planning to chop them on day 56 but I’ll let them go till day 60. They have had over a week with no nutrition, just water. Photos taken day 59 of flower, they’re coming down tomorrow!!

This beautiful hazey lady looked ready for the take down, and since I had some time on my hands , thats exactly what I did, she was smelling very nice and rich , Ive got her hanging to dry atm, but im looking very forward of giving her a taste once she's dried and cured. I'll be back for a weigh in once her buds are dried and seperated from the stems etc.

***Mar 28 Had to redo the reservoir a day early, she is drinking way too fast. I am going to need to make sure to top up the water level every single day now, to prevent it from drying out so fast (2 days, and its half empty!!!) I took away the Root Farms Base and doubled basically everything else. I did this because I feel like the stretch is finished, so I wanted to remove some of the nitrogen. PPM is at 2100 and Ph is at 6. She's starting to get little nugs! Not much of an ambient air smell yet, but the stem rub is very fragrant. The smell reminds me of a warm summer day by the pool, the smell of the fresh air mixed with bright flowers and lemon cut grass. A very beautiful, light, and energetic smell. Can't wait for it to finish, and wondering how the smell will evolve as flower continues. Did a root trim today as well, because it was getting a little crowded in the reservoir, now we are nice and tidy! (Hopefully wont need to do another until the end of flower but we will wait and see how it goes lol). She's filling out the tent a lot, I would say she at least doubled in size since the beginning of flower. ***Mar 30 No sign in trichomes yet, but she's starting to bulk up a little bit! Mostly just the top sites are bulking, but there is some development on some of the upper inner branches as well. ***Mar 31 2 full cups of water added to the reservoir today...! ._. Also down from 2100 to 1800 PPM, like what? I cannot get it to slow down, and I am almost worried I am not giving it enough, but, I mean, it's growing incredibly fast. Just from yesterday to today, the pistils are POPPING like mad, and I even had to do some leaf tucking (and take the top 2 fan leaves covering the inside, it's been a while since I've needed to do that!) All I can do is wait and monitor the PPM, and if it gets too close to 1000 before monday, I will add more nutes. She really acts like the more I give, the more she uses 😅 What an impressive strain. ***April 2 Topped up the reservoir, and made sure PPM and Ph were alright (1600ppm and 6.1ph). It almost looks like it stretched over night, and I had to raise the light up (it went from over 700-1000ppfd for the branches and tops, respectively, to around 500-700). I was going to add more nutrients, but it seems okay at 1600 for now, and now that it wont be getting such intense light, it wont be forced to drink more. I ended up cleaning out some more leafage around some over-layering spots, and also some inner nodes that weren't going to develop into anything other than shake. Got some close ups of the inner nodes, and a quick video showing the layout of the plant! It's amazing how big it's getting, it's already taking up the whole tent, and its only been 2 1/2 weeks since I threw her into flower! 😂 💪😁👌

@twenty20mendocino Ateam R&D Update ~ Let’s Go day 18 of 🌸almost 3 weeks in an we are looking great! Gave em another aggressive trim up some lollipops this week hopefully wasn’t too early but hey it’s we learn as growers, but they are bouncing back super nice, praying a looking happy y’all! Can’t wait to see what these girls do over the next few weeks, y’all have to keep them eyes peeled for next weeks update. Y’all have an amazing productive rest of your day as well as great rest of your week! Hope y’all enjoy, peace love an positive vibes to all y’all Cheers an blaze on 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨