Forgot to update yesterday but I switched the lights to 12-12 and she’s stretching healthily (4DAYS)! She’s bushed out so much I figured it was the right time to flip as I have the others that had reached my ideal time of 6 weeks! I’ve removed grape ape as she was too small but gave her to a friend to finish so she’s still documented on grow diaires thanks to @godg420 stay tuned for flowers 💐

Start of week 7, grow is going great. I think she is starting the pre flower stage finally. Lst has been going great with shoots popping up everywhere. I have been able to keep the canopy pretty even throughout.

week 8.was a strong wind with rain and it was bot good for ksd auto(now its okey pls write if you recommend me what a nutrient to give for strong plant ?.i mean buds coming to get big and plant must hold it)

Pleased with how this plant is doing. Lots of stretch this week and looks like she's still got more in her. Still been training the tops where i want them but the branches are getting stiff now so that's nearly it. The cooling fan on my grow light is really noisy and the loudest thing of my setup by far. So i have changed it for a much higher quality one and it's amazing! Night and day difference for noise and performance too! See before and after videos. I have a feeling i might run out of space in the middle with the 4 buds. Also that the outside ones are too close but we will see. Any comments welcome or suggestions. As i keep saying, all a learning process to get better each time. I am already planning my next grow which will either be do si dos auto or gorilla zkittlez auto both from Barney's Farm. Have a possible weeks fishing trip on 7th Aug. So has it not finished by then I will buy a water pump and set it on a timer. As i expect i will be flushing around then so just ph water through the pump. Thanks for looking P.s. Planted 2 more outdoors today - 1 went with the other 5 and 1 in its own spot. See last photo of the now 6 outdoors!

Wow transplant went well and there taking nicely had trouble adjjsting my watering. Any advice on how Much to expect to water 5 gallon pots!? Thanks!

Learned a lot from this grow and am very happy with the results. Pulled 2.8 Oz and 1.1 Oz of trim/popcorn buds in a one gallon pot. Definitely wont be doing that again, but had a lot of fun throughout the entire process. Going to be starting another grow soon! Very excited for that.

Que pasa familia, actualizamos las lemon kush y que aroma ya, empezamos apreciar olores en el cuarto, os aseguro que viene de aquí, tienen buen color, no es lo más grande pero se garantiza un buen desarrollo. En las imágenes podéis apreciar bien el proceso semana tras semana. 55% de humedad maxima y 29 grados maximos de temperatura.

Die Pflanze wächst richtig super. Anhand der Blattfarbe und der Blatthaltung erkennt man dass es der Pflanze richtig gut geht. Tag 38: - Einleitung Blüte - Erste Blütedüngung

Hello guys, I am back, with a new set up and glad to be sharing my grow with you's!I had to take some time off due to my wife being ill so sorry for leaving yous hanging! I have got 10 of female seeds white widow x big bud and i am super siked to watch these girls grow, expecting some big yeilds and that white widow smoke 😁😍 we have a 1.5x1.5x2.0m light out max tent, the girls will be under 1 250w mh bulb for the first few weeks then will had another 250w mh when they are a little bigger for the rest of the duration of veg, sadly gangster bulb had other plans and will need to be started under our sunblaster t5 light for the next 24 hours! The girls are planted in just basic seedling pots in coco, we will be using coco nutes throughout the grow and the girls will be started on canna start next week :) we have a humidifier, just a simple Argos basic, making sure the humidity is where we need it to be 👌😎 we are currently formenting some natural co2 for the girls, we used a 2L bottle, 2 sachets of yest that you can find in any of your local supermarkets, half a bag of sugar and some warm water, will add a video next week on how to make this if anyone is intrested 😁 glad to be back with you guys, welcome to jiegrow and I hope to see you next week👋

Leaves are fading and seeing some frost coming in more and more every day.The buds are packing on a little more weight and putting off a sweet aroma in the air.I have increased the light up to 70 percent intensity and we will see how they do.

Having just started a Sweet seeds + speed Auto, Red poison auto from sweet seeds was next on my list to be grown with Jack 47 in my arsenal after that. I'm already growing some sensible seeds strains so I didn't want to dip into them. I considered buying a seed for the 'one girl one cup challenge' aka Solo cup competition but knew I'd send myself crazy deciding which I should use. I had half decided I wanted to go Indica dominant as an entry for their shorter size anyway so...... after looking at images online of the Red Poison, I thought it would actually be a good choice. "....So a 16oz cup is a what now?" pint - no litre- no half pint - no 500ml - nope 473ml - yes, ah ha! 473ml = Nothing, the size doesn't exist in the UK. online I can get 10 delivers fow a few quid. I'm not paying that, I'll find something..... Closest ( It's near perfect to be honest) I found was an, ahem... recent... 30 and fab cup. I've videoed it's contents as proof I'm thinking as Indica she's gonna drink a lot (compared to sativas in my opinion) but I also have no drainage. Even though I think she may be a big drinker, I'm not worried about her drying out so much, she'll quickly bounce back from a drying out with a drink. I'm more worried of Over watering I still need to (at time of writing this) actually make a homemade tent first, buy some (probably 2) cheap bulb fixtures, I've still got some foil blanket left from other tents I've made and I've got some spare house hold LEDs I'll bang something together......

Common soon

* harvest: 8 weeks veg. 60 days flowering * pot size: 10liter air-pot * dry bud yield: 59gram * Appearance: the most frosty buds i have ever seen in my life. Its shining like a diamond. I could look at them all day * Bud density: 10/10 * Aroma : smelling like gas with a mix of ripe peaches * Taste : damn the peach terps are insane on the inhale, a strong gas taste on the exhale * Potency : 10/10 * Kind of high: next level strong, like you are smoking extracts * Colour of thrichs at time of harvest: 20% amber 80% milky * Drying time: 10 days in the dry tent, curing 10 days * Good comments: This has to be the frostiest plant i have ever grown, the trichome/resin production on this plant is insane and never seen before. Also one of the prettiest plants i have grown, the leaves turned out completely dark purple/black at the end of flower. The terpenes on this plant are incredible. Im super impressed by this seedbank and i will definitly grow more from them. * bad comments: this pheno wasnt a heavy yielder but thats ok, quality over quantity

Bubble OG Gum is growing really well. She has been thriving really. She is getting her first lst, selective defoliation, and root pruning today. Everything is looking super great. Thank you Spider Farmer, Athena, and Ganja Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Week 2 flower (day 9) the plants looks healthy and they straching everyday more and more its going to continue stretching till 3 from my experience. I added second trellis net (scrog) and raised the CO2 enrichment to around 1200 PPM, lights is on arouned 1000-1100 PPFD, I raised the nutrients EC to 2.0, so far so good. I noticed that the plants want more water they’re always hungry the want more and more. I never grow plant that drinks that much of water. Hehe. *update: Week 2 flower day 12 the ladies are starching alot every day, I keep an eye on them and I lift the lights every day. Don’t want to burn the them, I raise the EC to 2.1 2.2 .

This week has yielded positive results from the FIM And LST. I topped the internodal new branching that grew from the FIM job as well this week and the 2 extra tops are growing in response on each branching. She is now under a 4 bulb vivosun T5 6500K fixture and is responding very well to the light changes. Her stems are begging to give off terpines when rubbed. She smells of tart sweet lemons and diesel fuel haha. I am very happy about this grow and am expecting preflower to begin soon.

I’m so proud of the transition. I gave them a defoliation during and it didn’t slow them down! They’ve shot their worst pistols now so I’m so glad to be officially in bloom!

Just got back from a 10-day vacation and the Gorilla Melon has completely lost its mind! The AutoPot system worked flawlessly—the reservoir ran bone dry literally right as I walked through the door, so talk about perfect timing. The girl absolutely exploded during the summer heatwave and turned into a massive jungle monster, to the point where she’s literally knocking on the ceiling fan. The thrips are still a problem, though. The green lacewing larvae did not win the war while I was away. I will need to cut some leaves that don't look good and do a major cleanup. In just a few minutes, I’m taking the trimmers out to hack about 50 cm off the top to control her height and completely strip the bottom third for some fresh airflow. But overall, we are still in a good mood. Time to shape her up!

Topped once, turned off IR @ nights, slowed vertical growth back down, and took off both of the very lowest internodes on each plant. Eisenia fetida Stratiolaelaps scimitus Armadillidium vulgare Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida) are highly beneficial. They are considered an ideal choice for "no-till" or container-based organic growing because they live in the upper layers of soil, feeding on organic mulch rather than the plant's root system. Red wigglers accelerate the breakdown of organic amendments and produce high-quality, nutrient-dense worm castings directly in the root zone. Clover is another exceptional component of an organic rhizosphere, offering a sustainable, self-sustaining alternative to synthetic nitrogen fertilizers produced via the energy-intensive Haber-Bosch process. By forming a symbiotic relationship with Rhizobia bacteria, clover converts atmospheric nitrogen N2 into ammonium NH4, providing a steady, slow-release nutrient source that enhances soil health and reduces environmental impacts. Red clover offers superior nitrogen fixation and biomass production compared to white or yellow clover, making it the premier choice for maximum soil vitality, particularly for improving soil structure and providing a high-volume nitrogen credit for subsequent crops. If it is fully functional and efficient soil, the rhizophagy cycle is superior long-term than any synthetic delivery when it comes to preventing deficiencies, not because it's "better," per se. The medium will require a very high CEC to make it to harvest without re-fertilization. The rhizosphere acts as a dynamic, interactive exchange where plants and soil microbes trade resources based on immediate needs. When a plant lacks a specific nutrient, it changes its physiology and releases specialized chemical cocktails—root exudates—into the surrounding soil. These exudates, which include sugars, amino acids, and organic acids, serve as a "shopping list" to attract specific microorganisms, which in turn return higher levels of desired nutrients. There is nothing in comparison when using synthetic delivery, which can cause plants to stop producing exudates, effectively "starving" the beneficial soil life, over time turning the soil barren and void of microbial life. Responsible use, applying the right amount at the right time, can minimize these negative effects. Relying solely on synthetic fertilizers without replenishing organic matter is what typically leads to exhausted soil. The use of synthetic fertilizers can utilize the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) of the soil, but without a robust rhizosphere and active microorganisms, the efficiency of this process is significantly reduced. This makes synthetic growing more difficult to prevent deficiencies overall compared to an efficient organic living soil with a robust rhizophagy cycle, as there is no "one size, fits all" when it comes to different nutrient profiles of strains/genetics, making it trickier to "guess" and prevent creeping deficiencies. CEC does not contribute towards EC. Add more CEC using biochar, problem solved. If you keep pH between 6.3 and 6.7, hydrogen is exudated to cycle the medium's CEC for its needs. Keeping the pH between 6.3 and 6.7 creates an environment where plants release H+ to displace positively charged nutrients (like Ca2+, Mg2+, K+ held on soil particles or within artificial media this cycle through nutrients via the medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Microorganisms generate a stable potential of approximately 0.5 V EC. The rhizosphere creates its own food, similarly to chelation, using 1000's of varying combinations to create its own food. Start to finish, just add water. Eventually, more materials will need to be added at the beginning of each new grow, but very attainable to go from seed to harvest without ever fertilizing. ATP is important when it comes to biomass accumulation. Cellular root respiration and cellular respiration are essentially the same biological process, the breakdown of glucose to create usable energy (ATP) in the presence of oxygen, just taking place in different parts of the plant. Synthetic (salt-based) grows have significantly lower levels of total rhizosphere respiration, often referred to as root-zone activity, compared to organic living soil grows. While the plant roots themselves may respire in both systems, the surrounding soil ecosystem in a living soil setup is vastly more active, teeming with bacteria, fungi, and beneficial microorganisms. 2 pools of ATP, it won't double in growth buuuut, but improving root respiration by ensuring high oxygen in the soil is crucial. Good aeration ensures roots can fully utilize glucose to generate the ATP necessary for nutrient uptake, leading to healthier and more productive plants, even if growth isn't exactly doubled. The ATP created using root respiration is dedicated to rootzone growth; the ATP created using regular cellular respiration in a synthetic system would have to dedicate a lot of ATP to the roots when there is little or no root respiration. It's true that there is less of an initial ATP cost in breakdown when nutrients are already in their final form (synthetic), but you lose a solid chunk of ATP when the entire plant is reliant on cellular respiration alone; a large portion of ATP is dedicated to root zones for "forced" nutrient uptake rather than traded. Making it overall less efficient, even if the initial cost of breakdown is higher. Not sure if I butchered that but one can hope It makes sense. Oxygen is of critical importance when growing in living soil compared to synthetic soil because it supports the metabolic needs of the microbial, fungal, and insect ecosystem, rather than just the root respiration required by the plant itself. While synthetic grows can survive in lower-oxygen environments with precise mineral feeding, living soil systems rely on aerobic microbes to decompose organic matter (microbial mineralization) to create plant-available nutrients, which is an oxygen-intensive process. While a specific fair percentage is difficult to guess, my experience points to a massive, compound difference between the two methods and the amount of oxygen required. All the ATP spared is used on more biomass, not only that, but the extra root respiration can achieve a much higher CO2 compensation point naturally than you could with synthetic and atmospheric CO2 alone. As a plant grows faster and increases in size, its demand for nutrients to support that growth increases, requiring a higher rate of nutrient uptake. As plants enter phases of rapid vegetative/floral growth, their metabolic demand for nutrients increases exponentially. Without a robust buffer zone—whether in the soil (cation exchange capacity) or in a hydroponic reservoir—deficiencies will occur rapidly because the instantaneous demand for specific nutrients can quickly exceed the rate of supply. A growing body of evidence suggests that organic living soil provides superior long-term soil health and environmental benefits compared to synthetic fertilizers, which are often criticized for promoting a cycle of dependency and degradation. While synthetic fertilizers offer short-term convenience and high yields, they often come at the expense of long-term soil health, sustainability, and increased corporate control over growers/ farmers. Organic living soil, while slower and requiring more care to establish, creates a sustainable, resilient, and, ultimately, more fertile environment. We don't really grow; we facilitate energy conversions, and energy is just numbers. Because the universe works the same way today as it did yesterday, there is a single, fundamental mathematical quantity that remains constant. We call this quantity energy. You cannot put "energy" under a microscope. You observe matter and forces (like heat, motion, or light), but energy is just a scalar number calculated to help predict how these things will change and interact. When an object falls, or when a battery powers your phone, matter shifts and changes form. Through it all, the universe ensures the "total score" of the numbers remains exactly the same. Once all water is removed, approximately 95% to 97% of a plant’s dry matter consists of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen. These three elements form the structural backbone of all plants. NPK & all the rest 3-5%. Indigenous Amazonians created, or at least significantly enhanced, the fertile, dark soil known as Terra Preta de Índio (Portuguese for "Indian Black Earth") by incorporating biochar and other organic materials into the soil. This anthropogenic (human-made) soil technique, which dates back roughly 2,500 to 8,000 years, allowed ancient civilizations to flourish in regions with naturally poor, acidic, and nutrient-poor tropical soils.