The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@BudeCo
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Semana terminou com mais uma poda e defoliação, feito preventiva. Dia de aproveitar e guardar alguns clones. Uma flor de Industrial Plant x Girl Scout Cookies F2 que fiz em 2014, sementes germinam muito bem. Ótima flor com perfil aromático old school, Kush, bem terroso e com nota de coca cola. Leve picancia e nada doce.
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@gr3g4l
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Esta semana tocó un par de podas de bajos y sus hojas y mas adelante un último repaso y poda de hojas abanico si lo fuera necesario y a seguir floreciendo tranquilas, sin más estreses.
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Farbfroh und terpenreich nicht viel bud Aber super harzig. Riecht nach skunkigen Bonbons und ein Hauch von dieel
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Essa semana choveu e vestiu muito mas deu tudo certo, fiz o LST nas duas para ter mais botões
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia
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Привет садоводы и огородники !
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@GrowGuy97
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Flower day 24 - Ladies are coming along great! A few are having calmag deficiencies but nothing major, other than being a bit crowded I couldn’t be happier with the grow so far! Thank you to everyone following & happy growing friends!✌️🏼🌱 Flower day 25 - Humidity is at 47% temp is at 79F - Ladies got watered today at 6.5 PH , a few got some calmag. Happy growing friends!✌️🏼 Flower day 27 - RH is 51% Temp is 81F - Ladies got fed today, I got the fox farm Dirty Dozen kit is so the got a lot more stuff this week hoping it helps! Happy growing friends!🌱✌️🏼 Flower day 29 - Noticed some PM on one of the Gorilla zkittlez😫 have her pulled out of the tent right now apply neem oil hoping she will bounce back!
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@m0use
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This week was good, Did the transplant from 7.5L/2Gal to 28L/7Gal, Stared to do some LST but the main stem broke on two "blue and Red" of the three plants. Kinda sucks but a bit to aggressive, on the third plant "yellow" I also used LST just not as strong and got the shape and placement I was looking for. Will have to wait for the others to heal and then I can try again. IDK how long it will take, but I'll give it a full week. Sucks as the tips will be getting more light then the others. I also ran out of soil so had to make up a half batch as well to top off the pots, got about 8L leftover for transplanting the peppers and what not, tents so full I had to remove the clones and one smaller plant. They are growing in a window now. The extras where Gaia Green All Purpose 4-4-4, Gaia Green Power Bloom 2-8-4, Gaia Green Insect Frass 3-2-4, Gaia Green Seaweed Extract 0-0-17, Bokashi Grains, Epsom Salts, Yeast Powder, Fluvic Acids, Enzymes, Silicon and Multiple Microbes. PH adjusted really low as the amendments have a lot of rock dusts and such, wanted them to be broken down by the time the roots reach em. Watered in with 4L on each container, Should be ok for the first few days, will need to judge how they are doing in a bit and see if their roots are colonizing the new area. no idea how the clones will do outside the tent, Still have them in a plastic bag till I can see roots in the containers they are in. Checking about once a week. My goal is to veg this out for another 3-4 weeks and top it one last time they switch to bloom with a SROG net, should have good coverage and lots of cola sites per plant. Big shoutout to Medic Grow for sponsoring the lighting in my tent, They have provided me with 2x Mini Sun 2's in the 240w configuration, They use the v1 growing spectrum that is a all purpose seed to harvest spectrum so their is no hassle of switching it mid grow. If you interested in learning more about Medic Grow products please visit the web link below. https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/MedicGrowLED
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Processing
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There is a timelapse of this past week! This plant, the blueberry, is in the background. Early this week I transplanted the rock wool cube into my DWC system. I pH'd the water, but otherwise did not provide nutes for a few days. The grow tent is now on an 18hr light period. Sometime in the middle of this past week, this blueberry started wilting! In response, I provided the nutrients listed above, with the addition of 1 gallon of (hard) tap water to provide calcium. Unlike my GSC, the nutrients did not fix the wilting, but the wilting did go away after 2-3 days. I had some humidity troubles, so I resorted to flooding the bottom of my tent. This does seem to help maintain humidity around 50% RH. This plant is growing asymmetrically! It's first set of "real leaves" is not even. It will be interesting to see how this pans out.
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Satisfecho con los resultados y el control sobre la temperatura con nuestro Cooltube reduciendo eficientemente cerca de 5-6 grados al armario. El itinerario para nuestro cultivo es mantener en las condiciones actuales a nuestras 5 bebes y durante la tercera semana germinar La sexta. Recordar que este diario está enfocado solo en 4 babys, macetas de 11Litros 3xGlueberry OG Auto de DutchPassion y 1xLSD-25 de FastBuds, muy buenas genéticas de muy buenos bancos que esperamos potenciar en cosecha con tecnicas de Bajo estrés incluyendo el mallado SCROG, y ya en etapa avanzada de crecimiento una tecnica de Alto estrés conocida como popping (poda de bajos) además de un casi completo programa de fertilización, contando con los nutrientes básicos de vegetacion y floracion (top veg y top bloom) y para las primeras semanas ya en uso un enraizante (Top underground) y otros productos para terminar la floración de la mejor manera posible. Sígueme en IG @cestlaweed para mayor información, y cualquier comentario o consejo es sumamente bien recibido ✨🌱
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WELL LADIES AND GENTLEMEN!! My beautiful KOSHER KUSH #1 is already being flushed and will be chopped this weekend!! All these amazing colors are just starting to devour the plants with yellows purples and oranges inching closer and closer to harvest!! I will only be growing TOP SHELF FLOWER for my local dispensary after they reached out to me and pre ordered all of it!! I’m using some flawless finish on a couple of the feedings for flush and the other plants are still on a steady dose of flora bloom/ micro , terpinator , and cha Ching .. after a couple more feedings I’ll start flushing the rest of the girls and making sure no more nutrients is left in those pretty buds!! Till next week guys!!
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@RastaGrow
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Greetings Rastamans, as you can see my girl is getting thicker and is growing weekly. Every used fertilizers have very good results. Slowly aproaching the time of harvesting, This is evidenced by the trichomes as well as the timing of the flowering cycle. I believe that the harvest from this plant will be great. Use of the necessarry techniques at the right period of times gave me the results that you see yourselves. It is the last day of lighting. It will be in dark for 36hrs. Also today defoliation will take its place and I have already splited main stalk. hope you get enjoyment and also knowledge from my diaries. Wish you all good luck. Yours trully Rastagrow
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