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@BLAZED
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Week 8 (17-3 to 23-3) 17-3 Temps: 17.4 to 21.9 degrees Humidity: 60% to 72% 18-3 Temps: 17.5 to 22.2 degrees Humidity: 54% to 65% 19-3 Temps: 17.9 to 22.4 degrees Humidity: 52% to 61% Watering: Both 500 ml. EC: 0.4 Watering: Both 1000 ml. EC: 1.4 Defoliated both plants and attached some shoots to the rack. She got really big fan leaves! I also supercropped some branches. 20-3 Temps: 18.2 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 59% to 69% 21-3 Temps: 18.5 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 57% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. 22-3 Temps: 19.4 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 55% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. Set the strength of the light to 50% 23-3 Temps: 19.8 to 24.8 degrees Humidity: 58% to 67% Watering: Both 1000 ml. As you can see, instead of removing the leaves, i tucked down all the leaves to open up the canopy. I will see if i like this method as its the first time i try this. I also attached some more shoots to the rack, its looking nicely spread out now :) The #2 makes my fingers very sticky and smells really strong! I love it!
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Stretch Season Approaching? 🌇 | RHC Enters Preflower Elegantly A fresh update from the balcony garden! My Red Hot Cookies photoperiod has officially entered preflower—a beautiful turning point in the season and a clear sign she’s gearing up for the stretch ahead. 🌀🌿 After some intense vegetative growth, she’s responded well to topping and training, with her canopy now standing tall and open, ready for the sun to do its magic. Her stature is becoming more impressive by the day, and the signs of preflower are clearly visible in the latest close-ups and video. 📸✨ Even nature’s allies came to inspect this week—a little ladybug made an appearance during filming and decided to hang out for a bit. 🍀🐞 Always a good omen in the garden! This Week’s Care Routine: 🔸 BioBizz Grow – 4 ml/l for steady veg support 🔸 CalMag – 0.5 ml/l to keep her strong and balanced 🔸 Dechlorinated Tap Water – always rested for 24h before use 🔸 Homebrewed Compost Tea – full of life and microbe support 🔸 Effective Microorganisms – boosting soil vitality 🔸 pH: 6.4 🔸 EC: 1800 µS She’s in a strong spot—tall, healthy, vibrant, and showing no signs of slowing down. I’m genuinely excited to see how she stretches from here and how the first buds begin to develop under the late summer sun. The season is still full of promise, and I’ll keep sharing the journey. 🌞🌱 Stay tuned—there’s still so much more to come!
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@Tito_Yayo
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Week 3 D2 increased RH to ~70% D3 Height 14cm 1 / 13cm 2 Plants looking good. I'm full satisfied D4 3cm growth over night ***May the fourth be with you ;-)*** D5 1/19 cm 2/18 cm D7 No incidents, good week for the plants
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The Weather is getting better the Temps are rising and she grows faster now. I would they shes happy to get direct sunlight. At the End of this Week i saw the first since of flowering. Keep Growing
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📆 Week 4, 12-18 May 2024 12 May - Upgraded light to ViparSpectra XS1500Pro. 13-14 May - Observed the plant. 15 May - Plant shows first pistils. 16-18 May - Observed and let the plant grow. 📑 It was time to upgrade my light and it was an easy choice to stay with ViparSpectra. In my opinion, for small tents and the home grower they are the brightest lights available on the market. The only problem with the *2024 new versions are the dimmer switches. They limit how you can adjust the power: 5, 25, 50, 75 and 100% are the only settings, nothing in between. If you are trying to “dial” in your DLI/PPFD it makes it impossible without adjusting light height, which is quite cumbersome comparatively. Your forced to work around an issue which should have never been one! The plant is showing its first pistils this week. This doesn’t mean its in flower. There is no bud formation yet, she is just letting you know she is female. It could be another 2-3 weeks or longer before buds start developing. Right now she is still in a veg state so no changes will be to a nutrient schedule that reflect a flowering stage. 🍶 12 May nutrient solution changed 🍽️ 12 May feeding schedule updated 💧 Using reverse osmosis water with EC/TDS at 0 🐉 Nutrient solution EC 1.7 at 70 degrees F 🔆 Light power at 50%, DLI 28 canopy coverage at 18hrs 😤 Using PYPABL, Air Pump, 400GPH That is it for this week. Thanks for the look, read and stopping by.
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@mojogrow
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2º week crystal 1º week euphoria (she will be in veg period until dicember)
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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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This week I couldn't go and watch the grow because I was out of town. The day before leaving I defoliated and transplanted. When I returned I found the girls in great shape. I am really in love with these 15 plants 😍
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not sure where the dry weight thing went but i dont fill in wet weight. who even weighs there whole plant? dry yield is 269gram of pure bud. Grown in a 22liter pot with biobizz lightmix soil and greenhousefeeding bio line this smells so hard that my neigbor called the cops. she even smelled it in her apartment so its game over for me because off this plant. never came across such a weed smelling strain in the 8 years that im growing. hope to be back in 6 months or so.
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Strain Links Oben : Super Lemon Haze Strain Oben Rechts : Break Pad Breath Strain Mitte : Auto SFV OG Strain Unten Links : Lemon Orange Strain Unter Rechts : Velvet Moon
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@Iop420
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Hi all and thanks again for watching my post🤗. From now it's all about waiting and patience😁. Next step is flushing, I think to start next week. I let the pictures and grow log to speak. Peace✌️
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@Stork
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Day 65 Mon PH 6.1 EC 0.1 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 66 Tue PH 6.0 EC 0.1 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 67 Wed Add flawless finish and soda for oh up PH 5.3/6.0 EC 0.1/0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 68 Thu PH 6.3/ EC 0.1/0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 69 Fri PH 6.0 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 70 Sat PH 6.1 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 20 Day 71 Sun PH 5.8 EC 0.3 DLI /11h/ PPFD/ Water 17c
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@daggaDNA
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6th week of 12/12 ended for my Big Block by Cannabis Brothers California. Here I am exposing pheno number 8 this week as it's turning out great. I took it out on natural light and made few fotos so you can see it in more natural way. Besides having the nicest structure among 4 phenotypes, it's also developing the nicest flower structure and it looks like it will also finnish as first. Deffo a keeper in my eyes, but the final test will be smoking it, but we are still long way from there. Other than that, video shows current situation in my 4x4 tent. Absolutely jaw dropping cultivar, growing in 6L pots but exceeding 1m in height and also it looks like a descent yielder. Not to mention the aroma intensity. It's just proving what I was hoping for - true OG bred by true OG's - the Cannabis Brothers. Lineage Blockberry x Motorbreath 15 (Legend OG) Tap water feeding (Premium program) Aptus Light (BS600) + UVA/UVB 3hrs daily @future_of_grow Soil (lightmix) & pH Plagron Tent size 4x4 (120x120) Pot size 6L (1.6 gal) Stay tuned for few weeks more to see the final outcome, but pheno #8 is deffo the one I'm keeping. Peace out 💚
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04/24/2025 4 tsp/5gallon cal mag 17.5ml/5gallon floramicro 17.5ml/5gallon floragro 24.75ml/5gallon florabloom 1050ppm 2.1ec 6.1ph (the same the whole time now) Flipped to flowering nuits and switched to the larger flowering tent that has my exhaust fan Defoliated a bit too
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Bravo Genehtik! They did an awesome job with this strain! She has been extremely vigorous and resilient (only auto that didnt stunt from transplant) we began LST this week as she has enough spacing between nodes and strength to withstand the stress. I managed to get her main branch bent to almost 90° and exposed 90%of her branches( ones is stubbornly hiding 😡) without stopping this is the best I could do🤷‍♂️ She is also starting the very beginning of a stretch she is drinking a bit more and her lower stalk is hardening up.She also popped flowers, earning her a name officially! Ashoka will be this girls name from here on out! Stats: Vivosun 2x4 tent 1gal water pitcher Fox farms happy frog soil 2x viparspectra 600w refractive LEDs Durabreeze carbon filter 4" inline fan
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@Sativ_420
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Vienen creciendo muy bien. Se nota la diferencia de tamaño entre las que están en 30L y las que están en 50(tienen la tierra por la mitad en maceta de 100. Espero en unos días poder transplantarlas también
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sorry for delay but im busy working on it lol this week is phenomenal in size and the lst work well but now i have 5 lady that take the space of 10 lol