I missed last week unfortunately due to a few things going on so there is quite a step up. ****It’s been in flower 9-10 days so far and all bar 3 are flowering nicely please look at the pictures of the plants that just don’t seem to be budding? Are they duds or slow developers? Am I wasting my time or will they start too do you think?**** They are getting tall now and I have had to crank the extraction up a bit. Over the course of next week I am going to put them back into the smaller tents (half in each) with a scrog net to even the canopy out and add support them if they continue to grow taller Whacked the nutrients right up to near on 1500ppm and so far so good this 2nd week of flower they have shot up. Watering 5-600ml per 24 hours but to be honest I am going to up that over the coming days to near 800ml as they are almost drying out before I water again. Perhaps twice daily may come sooner than I think

12/25/2021 Got some good growth this week.

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So this week i will be repotting the ladys in 5gal fabric pots with clay pebbles and a mix of biobizz light mix soil and all mix soil. I will be starting to use 4ml/1l of water of biobizz roots. I'm thinking of doing a 6 week veg on these ladys as I will be doing a 9 plant auto run in the 4x4. Happy growing guys.

It’s working, she’s stretching and spacing out between those nodes! Just needed to raise those lights more.

Day 50 - Everything is going great, this lady is getting extremely tall & looks very healthy couldn’t be happier so far🙏🏼 Thanks for following & happy growing friends!✌️🏼🌱

7/26 getting more and more frosty. Looking real sexy. Making the whole backyard smell. Shes doing awesome so far. Fed her some recharge and slf100. I need to check trichomes to see when i should start flushing

Boosted with pk and vipars

She doing so good after the lst I did earlier this week. Topped her towards the end of week 3.

They're coming along nicely, but we have 2 runts that aren't doing much, might replace them with something else. Quick video of how the girls are getting on.

Vamos familia, actualizamos la segunda semana de vida de esta Amaretto Tarmac de Seedstockers. Empezamos abonando ya con varios productos de la gama Agrobeta. Temperatura y humedad dentro de los rangos correctos, 18 horas luz, 6 oscuridad. Una lástima que de todas solo aguanto una, aún así seguiremos con el diario hasta el final. Está próxima semana trasplantaré a sus 7 litros definitivos. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

High UV-B radiation can necessitate increased magnesium because it plays a crucial role in mitigating the stress and damage caused by UV-B exposure. High UV-B can lead to the production of harmful reactive oxygen species, and magnesium helps the plant's antioxidant systems and chlorophyll function to cope with this stress, making adequate magnesium supply essential for plant health under such conditions. Why UV? To do with the way anthocyanin is different from other pigmentations in that its colouration is not attached to the cell itself, it's a pH thing, if you force the color through high dose, as soon as she stops being in that environment, it will begin to revert back to chlorophyll, nitrogen deficiency causes anthocyanin to be produced in the first place, and nitrogen is needed to create new chlorophyll. When plants have a nitrogen deficiency, they produce anthocyanins to protect the leaves from stress while they try to salvage remaining nutrients, like nitrogen, before leaf drop. 24:1 C:N carbon&nitrogen ratio in medium will trigger autophagy, which will begin the dumping of nitrogen into the soil to feed micros as they FEED on nitrogen to convert carbon sugars into chemical energy via cellular root respiration (calcium/phosphorous VITAL for sugar processing). Couple the UV with a nitrogen dump for all the colors of the rainbow, and remove the possibility of allowing the conversion back to chlorophyll. 10/14 mimics late autumn, winter is coming, maximizing genetic expressions of desired purple genes if they do exist, I have seen no indications that I'd expect from previous grows. Oxygen is the oxidizer; if a soil cannot breathe, nothing good will EVER happen. Raised UV to lower the dosage. The leaves begin producing a protein hormone called florigen (produced via the Flowering Locus T gene). DELLA proteins. The plant measures the duration of the night by monitoring the amount of Pfr that has reverted to Pr. I imagine it like an egg timer with sand. You can speed up the flow of sand one way or another, determined by what type of red light and the ratio overall. The standard flowering cycle for many indoor plants is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness. By applying a short pulse of far-red light at the very beginning of the dark cycle, a grower can trick the plant's internal clock. Forcing the conversion: A pulse of far-red light (730 nm) rapidly converts the active (P_{fr}) back into the inactive (P_{r}) form, simulating several hours of dark reversion. This amplified "sleep" signal causes the plant to believe the night started hours earlier than it actually did. For a short-day plant, this rapid reset means it can perceive a 14-hour night even though it only received 10 hours of darkness. This allows growers to use a 14/10 light cycle (14 hours of light, 10 hours of dark) without disrupting the flowering of short-day plants, as the far-red pulse makes the night effectively "long enough". This provides plants with more light for photosynthesis and can speed up the flowering process. What about all night? Or a pulse (15-30min)? High Pfr (Far-Red) overnight mimics a short night:If you maintain a high Pfr:Pr ratio overnight, the plant never receives the signal that a sufficient dark period has occurred. This mimics the conditions of a short night, during which Pfr levels remain high. Flowering is inhibited: As a result, the plant will not flower. This is the same effect that is observed when a flash of red light interrupts a long night, which instantly converts any Pr back to Pfr and resets the dark-reversion clock. But it's not that simple, I do not necessarily want a 14/10 for the entirety of the flower. Suppose you give a 12/12 with the pr/pfr conversion to make her more of a 10/14. It may not be the best option for the entirety of flower. A photoperiod cannabis plant will develop differently under a 14/10 light cycle compared to a 10/14 cycle during the flowering phase. The differing lengths of light and darkness trigger different hormonal responses, influencing the plant's growth, final yield, potency, and maturation time. A faster maturation time in flowering cannabis offers quicker harvests and lower potential risk, but can result in diminished potency, lower yields, and a less complex flavor and aroma profile comparatively. The trade-offs depend on the grower's priorities and the specific cannabis genetics. 14/10 physical light cycle with pr/pfr conversion for optimal yield to make the plant think it's on a 12/12. After the first 4/5 weeks of flower, when trichomes ramp up, I will change it to 12/12, keeping the pr/pfr conversion. I should switch her to a more 10/14. Although this is stressful, make sure she is not suffering from undue stress from other areas. If enough stress accumulates, there is a chance the increased levels of jasmonic acid will make her pop a few seeds. Be aware, play it by how she is at the time. If you want to make the 10/14 make sure one also applies a second pulse of far-red light (15-30min) two hours into the dark period. This mimics an even longer night, causing the plant to perceive a very short day of 10 hours and a long night of 14 hours. A pulse of only far-red light during a short-day plant's dark period will not disrupt its sleep. Unlike a pulse of red light, which would actively interrupt the dark period and inhibit flowering, far-red light promotes the biochemical state that signals a long, uninterrupted night. This simulates the shortening days of late autumn/winter and can stress the plant, triggering a defensive response. Some growers report that this low, controlled stress can increase resin and trichome production as the plant works to protect its flowers. This mimics a natural outdoor harvest cycle where days get progressively shorter and nights longer. Reduce relative humidity during the late flowering stage to around 30%. This is another controlled stressor that can boost trichome production while reducing the risk of mold. Unlock the full genetic potential and allow for maximal expression of desired genes during critical times. Autoflowers contain genetics from the Cannabis ruderalis subspecies, which evolved to flower automatically based on a predetermined internal clock, or age that flowers based on age rather than light triggers, red and far-red light do not play a role in initiating the flowering stage. However, they significantly affect other aspects of the plant's growth and morphology. The premise that autoflowers do not use phytochrome red (Pr) to phytochrome far-red (Pfr) conversion for any function is incorrect. Like other plants, autoflowers utilize the phytochrome system to sense their light environment and manage processes like germination, shade avoidance, and vegetative growth, even if the phytochrome system isn't what signals them to flower. Thank you 🙏 Almost time. Sound the horn! Maintaining 12-1600ppm by the morning's compensation point alone. She is consistently experiencing noticeable growth every day. Sulfur is in prior to flower, medium loaded with abundance, CEC charged, as the plant grows, so does its respiratory footprint. The exhaust fan starts to flare up at night far more often. The pH is unlocking hydrogen, allowing the plant to cycle CEC for its needs, which is optimal for soil microorganisms. It is charged with controlled doses of sucrose at optimal uptake temperatures. Full negative pressure diffusion setup linked to RH for nights, with negative pressure linked to daytime heat extraction. Just need to throw in the second net, switch spectral ratio and enjoy the show. The struggle of the butterfly to escape through its caterpillar sac strengthens its wings; without this struggle, it would not be able to fly.

Buds are densing up everyday and trichomes are coming along nicely. 3 more weeks to go. I feed her one last time after this there will be no nutrients given to her. Just water only.

Bought a PH kit the cheap one with the vial and drops realized I’ve been watering and foliar spraying around 7 maybe slightly higher. Adjusted PH before last foliar to 6.5 roughly also maybe slightly under and WOW. Noticing the chlorophyll coming back strong and evenly. Wasnt a major issue but I had been wondering about it seems to be solved now. Also super exited both DragonsBlood have the bleeding trait!! Thank you to everyone providing answers and tips for me. Going to flower in another 2 weeks or so.

welcome to day 5 of veg and i must say she looks very good and strong. still upset i cant get voodoo juice but vitathrive is as good a replacement as i have. any questions shoot me a comment like my work hit that like button and maybe check out my other diary's stay safe and keep your stick on the ice Day 9 of veg 10/07 man she is growing fast. did the transplant today

This is NOT a plant that I would recommend for a beginner she can demand much more attention without reciprocation, which was frustrating for my FIRST EVER grow (woohoo!). She is one that I have had a little bit of trouble growing and others on this site Ive researched have had trouble growing. She is a little more sensitive to nitrogen and other nutrients yet gulps cal-mag.

last 3 days no watering and last 48 no light. drying conditions are RH 50% and temp 14°C.