Day 29 Overall I have no big plans for the girls this week. Just letting them recover from topping last week, and I'll continue to adjust the LST wires as needed. Also, I have decided to stop measuring the plant size every day as it is a bit pointless this far into veg. Instead, I will measure the girls at the end of each week. I started this week by feeding the plants' compost tea as well as foliar feed them. I have a small hand sprayer which works well as I only have a couple of plants. The bendable nozzle is convenient as it allows me to feed all sides of the plants easily. I just need to be careful when I do the underside of the leaves with the nozzle pointing upwards so I don't get my face full of wormpoop juice. I gave each girl around 2 liters of tea, and I completely forgot to check the pH. Sigh. Also, it is worth noting that I gave the tea to the plants just after the lights out so that the tea didn't burn on the leaves.  I noticed some light green/yellow tips on the new growth at the very top of the right girl. New growth further down doesn't show any yellow tips, so I suspect that I might be dealing with light bleaching. I checked the light level at the canopy, and it was up around 850 PPFD which is relatively high. (I completely forgot to raise the lights as the plants grew. DOH!) I moved up the light around 10 cm and then measured around 640 PPFD at canopy level. Hopefully, that will sort out those yellow tips but I'll keep my eyes on it. Day 30 All I did today was to once again cut back the cover crop a bit and tighten the LST wires. I did pull a bit too much on the left girl and heard a "crack". Turn out that the branch broke just right by the main stem but I think it will heal just fine as it was a really small break. Time will tell. Day 31 Today was moving day and I finally moved out all tomatoes and pepper plants. Good to have a bit more space again considering how cramped my tent is. I also did some more cover crop trimming and it is insane how much it grows. I removed a couple more leaves from the right girl as they weren't getting any light that far down on the plant. The branch on the left girl that I broke yesterday looks like a lost cause at this point but I'll give it another day or two to see if it heals. Kinda doubt it but let's see. I also tightened all the LST wires further and gave each girl around 2.5 liters of pH 6.0 water. The tops are looking good in the propagation tray but no visible roots yet. I gave them a bit more aloe tea. Finally, I hung up a CO2 bag in the tent. One of the problems with my setup is that the tent gets quite hot due to the powerful lights and since the tent is so small I can't fit an AC in there. Hopefully, the CO2 will help with the heat problem now when the weather is getting better which means that the tent will become even warmer. Day 32 Today I went on a field trip to a nearby horse ranch to hunt down and gather compost worms. I gathered around 50 red wrigglers, cleaned them up, and added them to my pots. Even though I watered the girls yesterday, the right one was dry today, so I gave her around 2 liters of pH 6.5 water. Thirsty girl but then she is also large and bushy, making sense that she drinks more than the other plant. Yesterday, I hung up a CO2 bag in the tent, and unfortunately, it really smells like shit. Literally. I hope the smell will decrease with time because right now, it stinks pretty bad when I open the tent. Ugh. Finally, I removed that broken branch as it was clear it wouldn't make it. Day 33 Ahhhhh, the wonderful feeling of opening up the tent and get hit by a wall of shit smell. My girlfriend even bitched me out that the entire apartment stinks. This was the first time I bought this brand of CO2 bags and I seriously doubt that I will repurchase it... More watering today, and I gave each girl 2.5 liters of pH 6.5 water. At least all this watering keeps the humidity at a reasonable level, but I really should get around to hooking up the Blumat system, so I don't need to hand-water all the time. I'm way too lazy to have to water every day. I did some additional defoliation on the left girl. Nothing crazy. It was just removing a few leaves that weren't getting any lights at the bottom of the plant. I also installed a scrog net but am not thrilled about how it fits. I'll leave it for now but think I will have to make my own in the future. Finally, I managed to put up a plastic pocket on the wall of the tent. Something that I have considered since getting the tent but never gotten around to doing. It is just a place where I can put the tools that I use most - scissors for cutting back cover crop and defoliation, PAR meter to check light levels, pH meter to make sure that my water is ok, and glasses for inspecting the plants. Day 34 Today my girlfriend was hiding in bed, under the cover, as I opened the tent. Just in case... Sure, enough. It still stinks. No big mission today. Just a quick maintenance mission where I cut down the cover crops a bit and removed another few leaves to increase air circulation. I also repositioned and tightened the LST wires. That was it. Day 35 End of week 5 of vegetation and another fairly easy day. I gave each girl 3liters of pH 6.2 water, tightened up a couple of LST wires, tucked in a few branches into the net, and super-cropped a couple of branches on the right girl. The left girl is 24 cm tall and the right one 34 cm tall. I also moved the tops out of the tent as very little light reaches the floor of the tent now when the girls are getting bushy. I put them under a ViparSpectra light together with my tomatoes and chilis. I still have no exact plan what to do with the clones if they survive but maybe I'll plant them outdoors and see what happens.

now im start to using many kind of sugar till harvest, beer-fpj-molasses-coconut water...

04/28/25 Round two of WongBurger! (After failed autos..) Two methods: directly in soil & glass of water. 4 seeds: 2/2 1 week apart. Two ish weeks ago we bought some worms to eat the roots of the last harvest. The cover crop grew insane. Cut it back & tilled the top soil for the worms. Broke it down fast imo. 04/20/25 planted 2 WongBurger & 2 Bible Fruit Auto Flowers. None of the autos sprouted. We checked to see if it just couldnt get thru the soil. Seeds never popped. So now experimenting with glass of water germination. First harvest we let it Xmas tree & allowing for smaller yield just to see how it grew. This harvest, plan to scrog, tip & fine tune a bit more for a higher yield. See what we can get up too! **First harvest, thru the growing process stem smell checks smelt like pickles & now during cure it has a gassy pickly funky smell. It's pretty loud but you wouldn't smell down the street. Synthetic grows prob lol high: calming, can have sedation, can have munchies, just over all relaxing couch lock. Pretty chill.

This is a seriously hard plant to take photos of, it's so big and lanky. She's on about a 20 degree angle at this point too, she's very top heavy 🤣 Very impressed with this girl. I almost tossed her out as a seedling due to her mutation; I've included a seedling photo to show the reader how far this plant has come. She has produced very dense and sticky buds with extremely strong aromas. She smells like candy and gas, just like a zkittles female would smell late in flower. It's been an easy grow. I'm expecting about 4 oz of high quality flower after dry and cure stages. I intend to press at least half of my yield with my rosin press. This seems like the perfect strain to make concentrates with due to the high terpene/trichome levels. I just added a photo of the Forbidden Runtz i grew in round 1 directly above round 2 flower for a comparison between the two. Round 1 is the two top buds that have more brown/red tone in colour. Round 2 are the lower two buds...a bigger, danker, and better version of the Forbidden Runtz I grew the first time. Please leave a comment to tell me what you think of the photo comparison. I will be planting one outside for round 3 shortly. Thank you growdiaries.com Thank you Fastbuds Thank you to all the growers who helps offer me advise when I needed it

Thus, I've switch my 250w CFL for a Mars Hydro ts1000, heat increase to 24°C, I add 1ml of top bud in my water, buds have grown a lot and I can see some trichomes

Nothing important to add this week they are all growing in a healthy pace and I slightly increased the water rations to 0.8L/plant. Still adding nutrients every 3 days.

Esta planta tiene olor a gasolina y cola de zapatero, un olor muy peculiar, sus flores son más compactas con cálices pequeños y una resina pegajosa

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Everything after germination has been pretty smooth. The plants in veg had a couple small brown spots due to under watering but no extreme signs or any abnormalities.

9weeks and 4 days seed to harvest, 125g dry weight👊🏻 Banging straight after a dry 💯 white ash, gonna be killa when had a good cure😎😤

Iniziamo....almeno un semino su 3 mi è uscito.ora forza anesia FUTURE1 #. SPERO SOLO SIA DAVVERO BUONA E FORTE COME DICE LA SEEDS BANC... Anesia 37% THC....😋😉💪DOPO CHE AVRÒ PROVATO VI DIRÒ SE È DAVVERO AL 37% O NO.!!!

everything is going smoothly:) this week I did a haircut for my girlfriend, and a little LST, the girl has already recovered from the stress :) now I'm going on a short vacation, and I'll leave her alone for 4 days:) :) good luck to everyone.

A Last nutriens. Next week Is time for flushing.

3 Auto's set away. Green Poison, Jealousy and Skywalker OG Not a lot to report on as such. 14 days old. Epic Attic 1.2 x 1.2 x 1.6 with 'Karma EVO 3' https://ledgrowstore.co.uk/products/karma-horticulture-240w-evo-3-0umol Ask for James, Top Bloke. 60x60x120 with Karma Stealth 1000 Strains purchased from 'The Vault' Seedbank. https://www.cannabis-seeds-store.co.uk/ Ask for George, Top Man. Pots/Trays/Substrate/Nutrients purchased from 'PeterleeHydroponics' Ask for Neil, he's a Legend!

I am excited to try out this new gorilla cookies from fastbuds. I originally started this setup to compete in the solo cup challenge, but I needed something that will be minimal maintainence and doesn't require hand watering. So this is what I ended up with. I will not be entering since I know it will bring controversy, but I am going to follow the rules and treat this grow as if I am competing. I didn't want to use regular solo cups because last time I had a lot of algae growing in the root zone when I harvested. I opted to use a black light proof cup. These cups were 27 oz originally so I filled them with 16 oz of water, marked the level, then cut them down to 16 oz. I set the drain pipes about an inch from the bottom so they have a little reserve if I have pump or power issues. I know people will see the drains as a way for roots to grow out of the cup but in reality I have to keep the entire pipe free of roots or it will clog and overflow. So I am actually losing a little volume due to this. I filled the bottom inch or so of the cups with river gravel to stop the perlite from washing into the reservoir. I am running a 5 gallon reservoir with a small air pump and the plants will be getting irritated 24 hours a day from an aquarium power head pump. I set the system up to be totally self contained and easily portable. It was all built from things I had laying around other than 97¢ for the cups. I will be keeping the feed simple as always feeding maxigro and maxibloom with a couple flower boosters.

She's looking very happy and healthy,let's see how this wonderful lady performs,looks like she's not gonna be very productive but always quality over quantity. Hope you guys enjoy. This lady has started the 4 week since planted on August 26th but also it's the start of her 1st week of flower,let's get the job done! 🔝💎💚✌️

I accidentally gave the babies a drink mixed with a shot of dehumidifier chemicals. I mean, there’s stiff learning curves being a first time grower but that is just thick as pig shit territory. It only dawned on me the next day and I rapidly flushed. Think the orange bud is looking a little healthier, but they are both hanging in there. Chemicalicious.