The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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Buenas noches familia, pues empezamos con el final. Nuestras power plant xL se han comportado fenómeno , recordamos que metimos 9 plantas de 3 variedades distintas y esta es la única variedad que perdimos espacio del indoor. Aun así sin palabras en cuanto al resultado. Planta con floración muy rápida, bastante vigorosa, lo malo es que al final tendrás que tutorar si o si, pero es por el peso de la flor. 56/59 días para cortar en floración, (y es Sativa).Se supone que tira 20%thc y su genética es South African sativa.
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I am so glad I decided to do some low stress training!! After that one feeding at the end of last week the plant truly bounced back and showed no more signs of deficiency problems.. 😅 Because I started some early LST I began to see the much smaller nodes develop over this week and it started to give me hope lmao. There was not only a difference in the vibrancy of the green leaves but there was also a difference in the texture of the leaves as well! The ones that were damaged were thicker and more rough, while the new healthy leaves were much softer! For now I will leave some of the damaged leaves on because I don't want to strip her too early but periodically over the next couple of weeks I am going to start pruning and training her more (especially since she's a keeper). I also went ahead and started giving my girl a foliar spray feeding of diluted garlic & onion peel water which I plan on continuing with while in veg.
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@nijuana
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Here we are :) the are finished You can see a lot of difference between the 4 strain specially the tall one #4 who have a lot of pistils
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@Salokin
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HI Guys, she is not doing to well, she seems to have suffered from root rod, due to a clocked air pump filter (totally my mistake, didn't even now that this needed cleaning). Anyhow, very annoying, lots of cleaning and sterilising I hope she will bounce back and will give her another week to build new roots, if she however won't do that, I will terminate this one and pop another one, as I was actually looking forward to smoking her. It looks like she is already setting up a new set of roots, so 🤞. Up top she is now looking a bit droopy showing a few nutrient deficiencies, but still growing, however a lot slower than in the beginning. Thanks for stopping by and hopefully until next week.
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12/9/2017 - The stretch these girls put on when they hit flower is insane. I'm getting ready to add bamboo stakes for support because I already can tell they are going to have massive nugs on them. They jumped from 9-10inches tall to just shy of 24 inches in under a week. They have now stopped all veg growth and are starting to pack on pistils already. I just got a new bottle of mammoth P so that will be added back into the nutrients starting now. 12/12/2017 - Definitely 2 completely different phenotypes. One is extremely tall (30 inches from pot) and stretched out with a bunch of long side branches. The other is shorter (24 inches from pot) and bushier. It will need some leaf tucking during flower for sure. They are both responding very well to the environment and nutrients (I got more mammoth p finally!!!) I've also used bamboo chutes and this gardening velcro tape stuff that I love to support all of the branches. Based on my Gold Glue grow these plants are about to produce some monster buds that the branches wouldn't be able to support.
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@Andres
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waiting to see if it has any trait of a seed of sweet seed ... just wait...
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@Bdawg
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Girls.nearly ther will be chopping down next.few days
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ยังไม่มีความผิดปกติ
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@cangrowz
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Der Grow lief finde ich sehr gut, auch beim ernten sah man wie sehr lila/rot es teilweise bei den Buds. Das war letztendlich genau was ich wollte. Nächste Sorte wird Lemon Haze :)
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Real easy plant to grow. A dream for LST she takes it very well and will give you a uniform plant. Some real nice looking buds with hints of purple. They are dense too. After a week curing it is a very nice indica with white ash, a relaxing strain that packs a punch. The yield is average but the buds are high quality. Autos just seem to get better each year. Next up I will be trying the new and improved Banana purple punch RF3. I also have a strawberry gorilla seed I will use. Going for 4 big XXL yielders next. I am happy with the yield in total this run but I can improve that. Final result : Gorilla Z 130gram Frostbanger 142 gram total : 272g 300 watts used = 0.91 gram per watt. Great results I recommend frostbanger to anyone it's finished in 65 to 70 days grows just like a feminised and it's very easy to train. 10/10 auto genetics.
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia 1/11 9:25AM 🚨AWESOME!! AND CANNAKAN IS 19 HOURS AWAY 1/12 THEY GO ON SALE!!! AGAIN!!! https://cannakan.com/?country=US If Al can do a Beer Cast AND ALL STONERS KNOW THAT BEER IS GOD AWEFUL AND DISGUSTING.., CARBONATION ?? AND ITS JUST THE WORST..BUT GOOD IDEAS GOOD SHOW SO, what the f is wrong with weed???, NOTHING you fags! “The Al Gattullo Craft Beer Cast is on AM 970, The Answer.” From AG Craft Beer Cast: AG Craft Beer Cast Emberside Brewery, Jan 4, 2026 https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/ag-craft-beer-cast/id1174014028?i=1000743767553
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Day 67 Northern light Auto RQS Hi all The plant is still growing 😳. Thought she would have stopped but no, another 7 - 8 cm in 7 days. You guys think she’s going to grow even more? I broke one of her sidebranches but it was only a little crack so I ducktaped it and ater 2 days the branch looks as strong as before. The sidebranches that are growing on my sidebranches are producing many extra bud-sites. Weather has been bad but this week it will be sunny most of the time and around 20C in the shade. I take the plant inside every evening so she’s never colder than 15C. And give 1 to 1.5 hours of extra led light (only 2X16W). I’m having big hopes for this one because she’s so bushy with many budsites. Any tips and or tricks? Please gimme :) Thanks for reading my diary, feel free to check out my other diary. Happy sunday! WHY AREN’T MY UPDATES SHOWING WITH THE NEWLY UPDATED DIARIES???? 😳🔫
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This is a beautiful big bush of a plant, she's absolutely awesome,I had to Supercrop her to avoid too much height on the balcony, her smell it's exactly the same as her sisters, super sweet and floral,very stable genetic, I love this black cherry punch, I would love to keep on growing this strain and take some clones, what a beautiful strain to grow. She's being fed organically and naturally 100%. 💚🤞🌱❤️ Let's see how this lady performs at the end! 💚🌱🤤
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So this plant is phenomenal with her recovery abilities. At this point, she recovered from her previous topping only 7 days ago, and grown the final 2 inches I was waiting for. As of 4/26, she is now on 12/12. Additional nutrients will be added to her for her flower period. Time-lapse again had an error, this time, I swear, it was not me. Looks like the camera and server stopped communicating until both were restarted. So as a reference, this plant is now 10 weeks from seed. She has been topped 3 times for a total of 8 crowns. I expect harvest to be approximately 10 weeks from now. But we all know how far expectations can take us.
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@reirrac1
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Decided after seeing the improvement in the Tangerine Dream to continue with the new feeding schedule, which will include a flush in a few days. She got pretty burnt from the salt based nutes, but her flowers have thickened up considerable over the last few days so I will try to get as much out of her as possible. NCH x SB trichomes are finally beginning to fill out with milk, and several sugar leaves have already gone 30% amber. One more week of flushing and I think I’ll chop her down. Feed pH 6.5, EC 0.9. Flush pH 6.2, EC 0.3.
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@TrimQueen
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So, guys.. This is her first month blooming. 4 complete weeks has passed. Here we are for 2 more. Gave Her a super powerful egg shell fert (all powdered - Phosforium Whelthy.) 07/10/20 - We are in the middle of week 5. Thats the way they look like. For me a good number of buds and they are as dense as I thought they would be by this time. I think everything is under control despite some foxtails cuz the heat. Loving the experience.