Not doin very well. Foliared it with GH synthetic and gave it calmag 2 days ago. The fim didnt take so i topped it. Growing slow not sure what else is there other plants in solos i got look greener. Removed then affected fan leaves. @Seedsman CBD CNC is doin killer. I picked 1/2 fem moms. Other ill grow on window sill for fun.

Well week 15 and 5th week of flower started yesterday, 9/12. I did a little more defoliation over the weekend, maybe cut 20 leaves altogether. Everything is still looking good. Temps are good, rh is good, airflow is definitely good. And judging by the frosty trichs that are showing I'd say everything is right on schedule. Starting to get more smell. That's about it for now. Happy growing everyone ✌️🍀✌️

Today I top dressed everyone with a full strength feed of nature’s pride bloom, compost, added bacteria, kelzyme calcium and a handful of promix. This will be the last feeding for both the blackberry breaths. It looks like everyone else is going to go 9-10 weeks so they will get 1 more feeding. Either way I’m going to harvest everything at once so the bbb’s are going to get extra ripe. The frost on the one pheno is insane. Smells are amazing so far too. Will report smell after drying. I just grabbed a full organic nutrient line for use in my next run. I got more of the nature’s pride veg and bloom dry amendments, boogie brew tea, kelzyme xx calcium, EM1 microbes and method 1pps spray. I will also be using Alaska fish emulsion (5-1-1) worm castings, WOW mycorrhizae and a pre inoculated 50/50 coco promix blend. Seeds came in!!! They hooked it up fat too. I got the 12 dolato seeds I ordered plus Slurricane F1 x6 and puro loco x6. The puro locos are going to be used for outdoor and I might do a little pheno hunt of the slurricane this year. The F1 is supposed to be better or more likely to show genes from both parents. Can’t wait! So today I forgot to water and it really looks like it shocked them... they all drooped like crazy and yellowed out more. I got them all watered and raised the light to ease some of the stress. Worst time possible to forget a watering!!! Won’t let it happen again. I was reading that PPFD levels over 1000 require added co2 and my light is well above 1000 at 8”. That could also be another reason my plants yellowed out so quickly. Next round I’m going to up the nutes and get one of those bottles of co2 and see if they make a difference. I would have to keep my filter on a timer so it wouldn’t deplete so fast. Or just use it for the parts of my grow that doesn’t need a filter. I didn’t even need the filter until week 3-4 of flower. I cleaned the sock on my carbon filter and now it’s just sucking the life out of my tent. The humidity went from being too high to being too low. Going to lower the speed until the humidity is proper. This tent isn’t that old and that filter sock was disgusting. Going to try stablizing my RO water with a bit of snow in the winter and rain in the summer

Only water and no water for the last 5-6 days. Also no light in the last 24 hours.

Semana del 12 al 18 de abril Cada día más bonitas. Estoy feliz porque como hay menos humedad ambiental, hay menos humedad en el indoor. Incluso llegando a 43% de humedad, así que me confirmo. La temperatura suele andar por 24-26 grados Celsius así que bien. Tenía unas 10 hojas dañadas por la mosca negra, así que el 12 de abril apliqué el insecticida tec fort (foto del producto en la semana anterior). Lo apliqué a las 17:00 hrs y a las 22:30 del mismo día no vi ningún bicho. Dentro de 5-6 días volveré a aplicarlo igualmente (1ml por cada litro). Al menos dos de las cuatro plantas están tomando otro color, así que me conformo.

Quite the nice Bush

:)

Some pretty colors and good smells

So these girls are shorter than expected allthough the 2 girls are of decent height enough for me too flip along side my aptus fed girls. I have defoliate all areas that covers light getting too the lowers and also removed excess branching too focus energy towards the main tops also did this via a little lst 🌱 One of each plus an extra 412 so hopefully they stick through and make it too harvest which they look too be healthy so far. I will next defoliate on week 3 of flower and also remove excess plant matter taking up neccasary energy 🌱 Shogun is serving them well so fa! Lights will be 12/12 tonight Week 1 flower commences then Stay blessed 💚

Well this was an absolute joy to grow and a stunning plant to look at. Thick nugs covered in a blanket of trichomes with a intoxicating smell that is like walking into Grandma's house while she is baking chocolate goodies. The team at Fastbuds nailed this one. Great strain for all skill levels and I would recommend to first time growers right through to the more seasoned veterans. This is my second attempt so I seem to take longer than most to harvest lol I have to try to figure out why that is, I can imagine this plant in the proper hands would be a crowd pleaser for sure. I will definitely be Growing again but with a different training technique because way too much trimming and training involved albeit was such an enjoyable experience just not a practical one if Growing multiple plants. 2 weeks and I'll sample a joint and my pax to give my initial thoughts but if she taste like she smells than going to be a staple in my bud bar. Well folks I appreciate all the love along the way and to Fastbuds for giving me the opportunity to grow this fabulous strain, many Thanks!! That's it for now see you in 2 weeks!! Stalks Strong 🇨🇦🌴😎👌: 1:🙏👊 Update: 7 days to dry and now jarred until around x-mas. Initial reports are fantastic. The taste is smooth, creamy with a hint of chocolate. I can't wait until a good cure for this bad girl. This will be a staple in my bud bar and is a great strain for newbies and pros as it's very resilient and redponds well to any kind of training. The smell is intoxicating and will only get better with age which I will cure for 2 months just in time to show her stuff off to famila and friends. Just over 100 grams of solid nugs. Such a fun experience Growing Fastbuds genetics and my favorite strain to date that I have grown. Excited to grow the Fastbuds lineup in the future. Will report back at Christmas with some pics and updates. Thanks to all for joining me on this pleasurable journey and keep em popping. Stalks Strong 😎🌴👌: 1:🙏👊🇨🇦

Hello everyone!! Everything is going well. the baby has already been born. I drip a little weak fertilizer every other day.

Day 50 since seed touched soil. They overgrew everything !!! Devil is HUGE and strong and hungry ;)))) . I think i was late with top up, they developed fast and used a lot. I check run off for ppm, but thought 800 still ok, it was not. So big last top up !!! plus to call it measuring would be sin, i collect all run off, mixed from all 3 plants, but its still gives small feel. ALL NUTRITIONS ARE GRAMS TO POT LITRES !!!! Neutralise is in real measurement only. Great White - 3 g each pot Biosys - 3g each pot Charge - 30 g each pot Life-Cycle - 60 g each pot Bio-Blend - 100 g each pot Watered straight after, 4 liters went in. Some girls are almost brushing Mars Hydro TSL2000 and i see no issues if air is moved and temp with humidity allows it. Great light, plants grow very well, too well ;)))) will do new clearing after two waterings, want girls to eat first, make bigger roots, then i will resize again to concentrate more on tops. MARS HYDRO TSL2000: 300W, Flower 2'x4', Veg 3'x5' It's recommended for beginners. Low-budget & high-efficiency. Took down first time ever LST while still growing. Needed space of pot, for last top up and i think they will breath better without, branches are stiff, i would add silica to feed at such time, to stiff them, but i go with one line only, just full beans ;))) Happy growing !!!

so much rain this week. Welcome to the rainy season . Her second week of flowering I await the seeds to mature before harvesting. Hopefully she makes it through the 4 days of rainfall ahead.

Day 28-35 (Day 29) I had some leftover pH 5.5 water from my other grow, it’s a little acidic but my medium is pretty base so it should balance itself out soon. (Day 30) Plants didn’t respond well overnight. They’re drooping and not looking very happy anymore. I’m guessing they will still recover in the next few days though. I’ve got to stay more consistent with the water. I’m going to make a water formula and consistently use it every time. I don’t like these pH fluctuations. (Day 33) I’m going to sprout 8 more plants today to help fill out the tent before I flip. I will be using pretty lame genetics but I will probably still find something I like. Got x2 SM Jack Herer, x2 SM Blueberry, x2 SM The White OG, x2 SM Badazz OG cheese. Last time I ran badazz og cheese it grew fine and yielded well but it got some pretty bad powdery mildew and the quality was lacking. I will make sure to give as many preventative sprays as possible before flip. This whole tent is highly susceptible to powdery mildew so I might be in for some issues later down the road. I will make sure to vacuum frequently and spray down the tent and my equipment as much as possible. The slurricane has recovered from its topping and is producing two new main stems. Its going through water quite fast so I’m going to transplant into a 1.7g pot. (Day 35) Dropped the ball hard today and accidentally knocked over the tray with all my new seedlings. Good news is they just got watered and were firm enough to keep all 8 seeds rooted and in place. Bad news is I mixed up almost every single container..... The only plant I am certain of the genetics is one of the cheeses. The other 7 are all mixed up! I’m sure I can tell all 4 apart by late mid-late flower, but this just sucks. I guess I will number them like prisoners 😭😭 I overwatered the slurricane a bit and it is looking like it has a lockout of some sort or it could be from the foliar spray. I’m going to back off and let it do it’s thing for the next week. I hope all the stress I’m putting it through will slow it down to the level of the locos and garlics. Garlics are looking happy so I’m going to transplant them into 1.7s today. Might as well get this slurricane, guava and locos transplanted too. Guava appears to be growing quite healthy but has had interveinal chlorosis since it has sprouted. If it doesn’t green up in the next week I will pull it. Man, I can’t help but feel this grow has been cursed since the beginning. Although a rough past don’t always make for rough future. I found a way to consistently pH my water to 6.2 every time. I’m starting with 60ml of chlorine free bottle, adding in 2000ml of RO water and just that alone gets me to 6.2. I can also add in 3ml of remo nutrients calmag, 2ml of EM1 microbes, 2ml of 0-0-15 kelp extract and the pH will stay stable at 6.2.

Wow 😲 I was thinking this was going to be a total runt. As if turns out I am starting to think of it as having a lowryder auto. I know I know 🤣 it's not a lowryder. She's actually a Northern light crossed with Big Bud Auto from Seedsman. This little lady was barley 3 weeks old when I noticed her transitioning to flower. I was about to pull the plug and decided otherwise. I mean what could it hurt to grow her out. Anyway she's more than doubled in size and her bud sites are well formed, stacked up and just looking good. Question? Would it be better to turn my 250 true watt down and move the light closer?,or run it full power and set it higher ?

Massive stretch over the week

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.