Well i figured i would try some different this week. I main lined her and topped her on day 9. Lets watch and see how she responds. I feel as though doing this early in veg will allow her more time to adjust before flower. Towards the end of the week 2, four days after the HST....we see 2 new main top braches coming in, as well as some action at the internodal cut point which is indicating a "Fimm" job rather my prior presumption of topping the plant. None the less i am excited to see her grow, and i intend on letting her grow naturally beyond this point....just to see the results.

Both ladies are getting fat and heavy 1 more week for the Gorila Cookies and harvest and 2-3 weeks for the Gorilla Glue and it will be time for drying curign and smkoing 🙂

All from fridge 24 hr shot glass ro and h2o2. All popped. Substrate is coco amended with dr. Earth and other goodies. Was wet and set in tent 48hrs. Letting these grow into the wet coco until the top is dry. Lights are 300 par about which is max for babies i think...

This was a nice strain to grow very stinky and has a hint of purple to it smells like lemonade happy with a wet weight off 310g thanks for viewing

Chopped lemon cherry cookies down, what a big nug! Very purple and frosty!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Hello! Just a flush between waterings with bloombastic! Some orange hairs and they keep getting fat! The purple colors are already and they are beautiful!!! Thanks dutch passion gore the seeds! Hope you like my diary of this 3 sucessfull Skywalkerhaze! Im very happy with the results.. i Will put again!

Pineapple Expressx2 (PE), Auto Durban Poisonx3 (ADP): Day 77 from seed. PEx2 Week 3 Flower & ADPx3 Week 5-6 Flower. Environment has been crazy fluctuations from outside weather: Temps 73-90F, RH 45-68%, CO2 500-875, & PPFD 1150-1250. Received a Compost tea to run off this week. All plants looking green and healthy. Flowering nicely. ADP #2, the most mature of the plants, Trichomes are coming along. Over all 55% Milky, 35% clear, 10% Amber. Going to give it another week of ripening and check again. The fade not real strong yet as well. 👌

Cant add the week comment AGAIN

Raubmilben zu Prävention gegen Schädlinge ausges

Week 7 is gone ! She is becaming a beast, so many tops all over the place ! 😝 I guess i will go all the way to week 12 with this one, lets pray for a huge yield 👻

Start of week 3! All three plants have had great bud site development during the last 2 weeks. The Super Lemon Haze is a bit thirstier than the Blueberries, so the Slh got and extra 2 liters of feed during week 2. The Slh is also showing deficiency, hopefully with the addition of B52 to the feed cycle, she'll come around. On th blueberries, there has been some rust spots appearing on the largest leaves, I removed the worst one's and will monitor more closely this week, if that issue continues or not. These babies are very bushy, they take up 80% of my grow room space, very excited about this grow and these plants.

Slight Changes in nutes: Current feeding FloraMicro 4ml gal FloraBloom 8ml gal SM-90 2.5ml gal Cannazym 2.5ml Gal Ful-Potential 2.5ml gal Liquid Koolbloom 2.5ml gal Floralicious Plus 1ml gal ArmorSI 1ml gal CaliMagic 2.5ml gal FloraNectar 5ml gal Drip Clean 0.4ml gal 9/6/17 A couple VERY LARGE buds tipped over and i didn't notice immediately. I found them and i think i staked them back to health in time, no noticeable damage, more blindsided while realizing the volume and coming to grips with the next step. the reality of the bounty of my garden is dawning on me, and i am a bit intimidated. by the dry, as i am in low RH. by the cure, as i have never done one before. by killing my girls, as they are lovely to ease my anxiety, i ordered 20 hydrometers and increased my jar count from 36 quart jars by adding a dozen 1/2 gallon jars. it is obvious some of the buds need bigger jars to stay intact during the cure. i skipped the boveda packs for now. they are amazon prime away in an emergency, but i figure my attentiveness will be enough, at least this first grow; plenty of people did it right before me without the boveda packs, and when i can pay less per hydrometer than boveda pack... it becomes an interesting decision. i choose old school... for now (mind subject to change) end game is WAY more intimidating than dropping that seed into that cup of water. no one told me it would be this stressful! i hope i do them well during this next phase and these next few weeks. they certainly appear to have done me well 9/7/17 I have a confession to make. When I thought the plants got stunted by the heat, I considered pulling the plants and starting over. Boy an I glad that I didn't. I didn't know what I didn't know. What stopped me was reading a forum post somewhere and a guy was frustrated with his grow and was thinking of pulling it (i think he only had 1 plant). Someone responded to him with very prolific questions. "And then what? Plant another and make the same mistake again? Why don't you finish her out so on your next grow you know better what not to do?" Bingo. He wasn't even talking to me, but he was speaking directly at my situation (or so I thought). I decided to finish them, even if they were stunted dwarfs (SPOILER ALERT: They aren't, I was wrong, they were anything BUT stunted) I am really glad I found that advice because who knows if I would have went through with it if this gentleman hadn't given me a moment of clarity. So if you are frustrated by your first grow, I would advise to finish the grow no matter what (unless, obviously, its a male or moldy or something that DEMANDS the plant be culled) and learn what to do better for next time. I thought mine were gonna be bonzai plants. Not even considering the money wasted and the time wasted, I would have missed out on what the plants have taught me and a tent full of superstars. Now, as I am approaching the end, I need some advice. Aside from trics, is there any other way to determine approx how long left in the grow? I need to change my nutes to end stage stuff (adding dry koolbloom, phasing out unneeded nutes, and finally the flush. ) I am super worried about getting the timing right. Besides trics, are there any other clear signals that we are rounding the corner to the final stretch? Thanks in advance. Also, I live in a dry environment. A desert, actually. For real. It seems like dry trimming will be very important for me if I do not want it to smell like alfalfa after the cure. Any thoughts on dry trimming? I know it is more work, but the results seem better. My plan, so far, is to hang the entire plant upside down in 1 piece to dry. The only question is, how many of the large fan leaves to leave on. Some leave all, some leave only the small ones in the buds. Any thoughts will help me decide along with my other research. Thanks!

High Level x Peyote Wifi First Run 1 week from germination 11th april 2020 Welcome back to my first attempt at growing out a couple of my little creations 😎 Both Plants are up and doing nicely. I will feed them today with a Qtr strength mix of Organic Grow Nutrients , That should be enough to keep them happy for now. That is all I have to report for now so keep safe and I will see you next week with another Update .

Video

Have had a battle with these ladies from thieves , powdery mildew , and now bud rot. These pictures are from my lowest branches on the plan and let’s just say I’m already going to get roughly 6 oz or more just from two of the lowest branches. The rest of the plant is starting to take off and flower should be done in about 2 kore weeks or so 😁 overall I’m pretty happy with my ladies as they’re just hitting 12 feet 🤯

2/17: I spent a little time rearranging today. I bought some 32" x 14" plastic ventilated storage shelves and cut the legs down on two of them so I have some different-height platforms for the shorties in the garden. I should also be able to easily flush 6 plants in 5 gallon pots, or 9 plants in 3 gallon pots at a time now, that's a win!👈 2/18: I debated whether to feed or not, and settled on watering them with about 1/2 gallon each. including bembe, cal-mag, signal, humic acid, and a little beastie bloomz. The new dehumidifier is pulling about a gallon and a half per day from the air, so I should be able to feed them in a couple of days. 2/19: Rainy day outside, so I'm pulling in 99% humidity, plus the pots are still petty saturated, but the new dehumidifier is keeping up. RH is holding at about 45% today.👍 2/20: Day 31 of flower...they don't seem to be stretching any more, so they aren't a problem, but other plants have been. A semi-solution occurred to me that allowed me to raise the lights another 3-4 inches. Now I'm truly maxxed out... So far, this has been the most consistent of the FFT strains I'm growing. They actually "look" like sisters.. I took photos and videos of all the plants today since I had to empty the closet and it wasn't a feeding day. 2/21: I fed them today with about 3/4 gallon each including beastie bloomz, tiger bloom, big bloom, signal, bembe, and cal-mag...no grow big this time. 2/22: They're both looking great..no complaints at all. 2/23: I ordered some Terpinator because I'm not so sure about Signal's efficacy at this point....I'm usually dealing with odors more by now..😕 I've reached the ceiling again with my lights, but these two plants wont be a problem. They're both budding up nicely now.