August 23: Just finishing up about 36 hours of darkness, then I'm going to wash the buds, then hang them. Harvesting a bit early due to time constraints but it looks good. The smell is very dank, not a tropical skittles smell, much more like wood glue as I've seen mentioned in other reviews, although I'm starting to occasionally catch a sweeter tropical scent as well. I wanted to leave it a little longer. There were still a lot of white hairs when I started the dark period, but a lot of them seem to have developed into swollen calyxes so I'm pretty happy. I was a little worried they were making seed pods after last time, but I broke one open and all that was inside was red hairs. I'm going to keep an eye on the RH while they're drying and get them into jars and try to wait as long as possible before I start sampling. I can tell this is one of those batches that's going to get better and better if left alone for a couple months. Just did the wash, did 1.25 cups of 34% food grade H202 and a squeezed lemon in a 5 gal bucket. Another bucket of just water to rinse. Then I had a fan on it while hanging in the sunlight from a skylight in the bathroom for 30 min, then put the fan further back and on oscillate, then turned it down an hour later. Left it in there for a few hours, then hung it in the grow tent with everything removed except an oscillating fan, pointed away from the buds. I have the whole plant hanging in the middle of the tent and the tent is holding at 60% rh. Next run I'm going to do 2 buckets and only top once. I might leave them a bit longer in veg too to maximize the height in my grow space, and I'll get a proper 500w bulb instead of continuing to run 1000w bulbs at 50% to lower the heat a bit. The weather will be cooler and I'll only run one air stone in each bucket which should help with res temp. I'll probably foil-wrap the buckets again as well. I should be able to get another run done by the end of the year. I have a White Widow fem seed I've been waiting to use but I'm not sure what else I want to grow yet. Maybe Granddaddy Purp. I'll take some micro pics of the trichomes this week and start curing, and I'll post a proper review in a couple weeks. Happy growing everyone! August 24: I took it out of the tent to inspect. No mold or mildew. The middle of some buds are still pretty wet. I'll keep an eye on it. Wet weight on the stem is 158 grams/ 5.5oz. I harvested a couple branches last week and hung them up. I just ground up one of the buds, left it overnight and vaped some today. There was a bit of Chemdawg Tangerine in the grinder already but overall I got a lot of thick vapour, instant effects, and a really great tropical taste. I busted out the microscope camera and I realized I had a couple buds that fell off before I washed the plant in the H202, and a couple buds that came off in the washing process. It doesn't look like washing the buds took off any of the trichomes. I do seem to find less debris in the buds, not that there was much there before. The trichs look great. Just a light toasting of amber. The washed bud actually seems more dry than the unwashed bud. August 25: there's a real chlorophyll smell coming from the drying room today, it was much terpier yesterday. Leaves are getting crunchy, stems are still fully bendy. I ended up taking it down in the evening. The drying room rh dropped from 60% to 55% and the buds were starting to look too dry based on my last grow. I put it all in a paper bag for the night and I'll put it in jars tomorrow morning. Broken down most of the way it came out to 48-49 grams. From the bud structure, I definitely feel like it would have benefitted from more grow time if I didn't have to travel. More to come. August 26 - the edges of the buds are getting really crispy and the buds are getting tighter. I checked the paper bag earlier and it was 65-70%. I got the impression it was time to put it into jars. I'll keep the lids off for a bit.

Ending week 7 strong, no signs of nute burn and I'm pushing 2400+ ppm. Colas are developing nicely and the trichomes are beginning to develop, and smell very fruity and citrusy.

Day approx 30 since seed touched soil. They are good, on last day before holidays i visited them, all are growing, a bit overstretched, but the lack of good light on such low level is blocked by surrounding, they should be better when i will return. One month of holidays ;))))) Happy Growing !!!

Both phenoe are pushing on nicely. Really good growth from both phenos from 1 seed, 1 had more girt. So, there wasn't an exact even growth ratio. But no pheno was hammered in any way that affected its push through pre fower and into mid fattening. I expect another 3-4 weeks and I'll harvest. Atm there's a nice Lemon exotic smell. Really dank. Musky (earthy). And popping off fruits. Really lovely set of plants. Xpert nutrients are bringing out the best in my grows. They smell, taste and pretty much everything in that regard has improved. These are my new nutrients. As hard as I've been strain hunting. I've always used a different line of Nutrients per crop. And I'm glad to say. These are by far THE BEST nutrients I've used to enhance my crop. Feeds Are pretty much a week in week out with change (all explained with my weeks, DLI and other factors), master root/enzymes have been pult. Master Root no longer needed. Enzymes are all gone. Maintenance This wk, i applied LST bamboo sticks are have done some basic node bending to get the best out of the space in the area above and around its base. Some nodes where tied back to the sticks.. Shout out to my sponsors and all who stop by.

Day 23 Photoshooting Topping (only left the 3. node) This plant shows an extremely high growth rate compared to Creme Caramel The final run is only carried out with one plant.

- LAS PLANTAS YA NO SE ALIMENTAN . Y SE LES HIZO LAVADO DE RAÍZ , EMPEZÓ EL COLOR AMARILLO EN SUS HOJAS Y OTRAS A CAERSE - NO SE VEN CARENCIAS NI EXCESOS - el hps de 600 MANTIENE MI AMBIENTE SIN MAYORES INCONVENIENTES -SALIERON COGOLLOS DENSOS Y RESINOSOS , BASTANTES DUROS SOBRE TODO LOS GORILLA GLUE

Welcome to my Royal Gorilla Diary This grow will join the RQS outdor grow contest at later time, I hope i get lucky and bugs won't eat it. After receiving contest box, i asked about germinating indoors, after confirmation i popped a seed in the soil. Germinated in pot indoors (gift pack was massive! see pics), after germination i put outdoor but i kinda forgot her. This one is growing together with a small tobacco plant to keep some unwanted insects away, i want to add some dill and coriander soon. So our royal gorilla is in her second week already, and she looks pretty healthy. Soil is reused soil with new fertilizers added to the soil. I'using a mixture of dried cow poop pellets and chicken poop pellets to give the soil some renewed power. Most of this is in the top layer of the soil (watering from above) so nutrients can be spread extra during watering. This should be enough for the first 6-7 weeks, so when the buds start to take shape we can start with adding some mineral nutrients in addition to the organic feeding.

I’m overjoyed with the phenos this strain is producing, strong vibrant purples with some serious flavour profiles! Scent Profiles we have: Candy Lemon Sherbet 🍬🍋 Sweet & Piney Diesel 🍭🌲⛽️ Sweet & Tangy Tropical Punch 🏝️🥊 Alongside this, these beauties are the frostiest and the most insanely dense koala looking nugs I’ve ever produced!

Week 3 has been great! We topped 2 Pre 98 Bubbas and 2 Dirty Blondes so far , 2 other Pre98 Bubbas will also get the topping but just gotta give them a few more days and they will be ready for it ! Once we have a little time of recovery, we will be topping all these ladies at least 2 or 3 more times so you all keep them eyes peeled! I hope you all enjoy an have an amazing productive week ! Peace love an positive vibes to all my Growmies out there Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨💨🤙🏻If there’s any questions, please ask I’ll be happy to answer ✌️🏻

Flushed and getting ready towards harvest

Double Dunked got harvested 16/11 and I'm planning to let her dry for 14-21 days before trimming and put them in glass+boveda (58%) and grove bags for final cure. Drying conditions are as follows: 16-18°C 55-60% RH

Still no sign of flowering. Transplanted Novarine plant 2 into a 50-liters container. The spot is under a big shorea plant. Shorea is a South East Asian medicinal tree. This is minimum light spot in my yard. Hope she would flower. I choose plant 2 because I think plant 1 will stretch even further. Plant 1 was also moved to a shaded spot under an tree jasmin. This Millingtonia, Indian cork tree. I have sweet flowers all year round. People told me that dried tree jasmine flower mixed well with weed and is good for people with ashma and sinus. Kind of useless since why would asthmatic people even smoke? Plant 3 is my back up until I come up with a way to put her into flowers. Clone are doing nicely. And I am growing 3 clones from plant 1 and only one clone from plant 2. I’ll be donating the rest to friends with weight and blood sugar issues. By year end, I probable keep only one or two clones. One clone from bigger branch is growing just fine without any benefit form lighted grow box. Feeding plants with mid-level dose of cow manure tea and earth worm casting tea to keep leaves healthy. They should have been given a light dose of fertilizer. However, the flowering purslane are also eating and feeding soil microbes. Got my paws on triancontanol and brassinolide. Perhaps these will jolt Novarine THCV into flowering. Triacontanol won't dissolve in neither water nor alcohol. And it is emulsified with polysobate. Mixing of Triacontanol Triacontanol does not dissolve in polysorbate. It is rather emulsified. Means that it need to be melt and there need to be water added. My steps, 1) heated 70 grams of polysorbate in a big heat resistance glass cup. I used a beaker. Mix in 5 grams of triacontanol. And it does not melt. 2) Put in 100 cc of water and put in microwave. After the mix is boiled, triacontanol melt. There is foam. So a bigger cup and a spillage plate would prevent problem with my better half. 3) After heated, the mix is better. Then I added hot water from to make total 250 CC of solution. Then, the mix is clear. 4) Label the dose with pencil. This works better than labeling with ink. I use 5 cc at a time for my entire garden. 250 CC would last me 50 doses. No need to buy so much. This is cheap. Let’s see next week how effective they are.

Fuldstændig vanvittigt der har været så meget stress at jeg har haft glemt hende her hun har det satme sygt godt nu takket være dygtig brug af gødning plus at jeg ikke har haft overvandt. 😉. MEN JEG HAR jo stadig lang vej til den færdig

Let’s go day 43!!!! Week went real well , girls started preflower so sometime this week I will be switching up the nutrients for flowering! We are stable and looking super healthy! Can’t wait to see what these ladies do this week! Hope you all enjoy !

don't doubt Zkittlez! 💪. it eats like a monster, building SUPER roots, and has great potential. it may show you the whole color spectrum, which i find pretty cool, but i also found that rare neon-green color is an awesome sight to behold! not a SUPER heavy hitter, about 19-20%, but the smooth, almost creamy, fruity, berry taste is just delicious. 10/10 !

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Week 8