This was a fun project that was a few years in the making and a year later to see if they would last a season for this upload to happen. Before any of this I would bike aorund town grabbing up all the old Ikea solid pine bed slats that I could find and storing them in the basement. I have a lot of wood down there, any size worked as long as I have enough of them. The hot days to find them were the first and last of the months because that's when people where moving in/out. I also kept an eye on the free section on local online classifieds as well. The entire purpose of this was to recycle as much off the streets as I could before buying anything to finalize the project. In the end I only bought sealer, screws and some takeaway/beers. All the wood was 100% free and salvaged off the streets of Toronto saving it from the dumpster bin. After collecting all the slats for about 2 years I was playing aorund with them on how I wanted to make this work. I had previously done a little project like this before but I messed it up and the boxes where crap. did not last longer then 2 seasons, they where thin and shallow as well could not grow much of anything in them. I Was talking to my friend who is renovating their house and we brainstormed some ideas on the boxes, I found some designs I liked online and said lets make something like this out of what I have here. We tossed out a few of the design features when looking at them as it would have been wasted wood and extra work not needed. If I had more wood them maybe it could have been an option but simple was the name of the game. They taught me what I needed to know like how the miter saw and sander worked, plus all the other tools I was using. They did help out with a table saw and creating the triangle support joints in the corners, They used some pine left overs they had while making a staircase indoors. I did not feel up to the task of using a table saw given all the relatives I know who have lost a finger to them. In the end we decided the design would be three boards high and take an alternating pattern on corners. layer one short, layer 2 long, layer 3 short. Went with a galvanized and painted deck screw so it can take the weathering. Ran into some problems like making everything level as some of the boards were warped and other ones had undesired aspects like knots and tacky sticker goo I could not remove. So I used them for the base that will not been seen so much. Clamped everything down and called it a day. Once it was all done and over with, I then brought them back home from my buddies work garage and started to seal them. I went with a boiled linseed oil as its a food safe option should the wood degrade into the soil I will plant in them. I will need to reapply it to the boxes year after year but the main coat is the most important one and I put it on 3 layers with a good dry in between coats. the inside of the boxes that where coated did not degrade at all as the sun did not hit them so it will not need a new coat just the outside. Overall the end result was very impressive for myself, I've never taken a woodworking class ever and It was a near perfect outcome for me. Heavy Duty Planter Boxes for all my gardening needs. I made a last min decision to add in a plastic liner to preserve the wood even longer and stapled that into the frame. it has held up quite well and may need replacing end of 2nd or 3rd year out in the sun. Used a thick moisture wrap plastic with UV protectors in its formula. Lets see what I can grow in them this year! m0use's haus of projects - garden box edition

First week of Veg is done after the propagator tent. Clones looking good so far - getting healthy again. Startet LST.

I did try a new method to dry with this one (DryFermBags) weighted them every day and removed them from the bags after 10 days. She completely lost all the good smell and smells like hey now. 1 Of the bags also contained mold. Very sad cause i grew this pheno before and i love her smell.

Bueno primera semana y va muy bien vamos a ver como continúa el seguimiento.

✍️✍️✍️✍️✍️🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰💰Dam this is one shitty diary but the dank that will become will stand alone👊👊👊👊👊👊

Lowered the lights a good 8-10inches just because i realized i could get them closer without burning! Going for around 6-7 inches above canopy getting the temp in the high 70s low 80s om top canopy. All pheno are getting very unique and super resinous! I have a slight lnat problem going to spray this week when i get paid

Last feed was a week ago, have watered twice in the past week with ph'd water. Ladies are progressing nicely. Will feed tomorrow, and see how things progress. Got the dehumidifier and control put in, have it set at 45 rh, right now. Have seen the humidity come down substantially but still swings between 40 and 54. Thinking about lowering the setting a bit to around 40 to try and get tighter control as I finish out the grow over the next several weeks.

Jan17th added videos. Just given them all a easy week. Gonna be starting to keep an eye on these , but still in cruise control for the most part. Still working on the space but have the in fan and out delt with now and dehumidifier and ac sorted so 👍🏻👍🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻 we shall see how the environment here acts now . Tested the ec and ph after a watering and they both were OK with what was going in. But im really not in any rush ,still getting situated with everything. Atleast weve got that stuff sorted Smells insane tho can't wait to see how it's finished taste turns out. As always appreciate anyone that took time to check out any of my grows, and appreciate any feedback or suggestions!! Best of luck!!

week 9 - 1/25-2/1 Was going to harvest but its just absolutely not even close to ready... Going to try to make this work with limited space as every great grower would try.... I put it in 48 hours of darkness thinking iw as going to chop it but when i pciked it up i just couldnt have the heart to move forward and decided to turn the lights off... (i also fed right before 48 hours of dark because i was planning on keeping growing then decided fuck it lets chop b/c of a major setback while i was on vacation but now its experiment time!!!) ... lets see what happens! ASLO recipe called for NO CAL MAG but im adding 3 ML to the mix b/c i think itll help since im in coco... elts see

had a little problem with watering I hadn't done it in a whole week so the plants looked really dehydrated but then I watered them and now they look fine though I honestly really did have to remove a lot of dead leaves sadly...I don't know if it's time to harvest I'm not sure cuz the trichomes look pretty cloudy and so do the hairs looking all brown yeah

Now we've reached day 41 Our Watermelon Candy, as we expected, has become the queen of the growbox full of F1 Hybrids. Large, vigorous, grows quickly and fills the flowers very quickly along the entire length of the arm, in my opinion once filled they will be very beautiful and full. The appearance is really important, you can see that it is a healthy plant that grows at a great rate and allows us to enjoy a wonderful view. The situation becomes very interesting from here on out we will see some good things. Site Description ZAMNESIA SEEDS - WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC: BUDS BURSTING WITH FLAVOR If you've been looking for a flavorful strain with superb genetics that's effortless to cultivate, the hunt is over. Thanks to reliable F1 hybrid genetics, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic showcases the highest degree of productivity and efficiency. This strain takes everything you know and love about the original, and packages it in a plant with even greater potential. GROWING WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC Derived from Watermelon, Candy Kush, and ruderalis, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is a finely tuned medley of genetics. This cultivar is fast to flourish and reliable to grow, no matter where you choose to grow. Taking just 9–10 weeks from germination to harvest, she provides a uniform growing experience culminating in a huge haul of buds for her size. Reaching heights of 65–80cm, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic stays pretty grounded, making her perfect for smaller growing areas where space is a commodity. It also means you can fit more plants in if you have the room! Once ready to yield, growers will see a return of 400–450g/m² indoors and up to 100g/plant outdoors. Moreover, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is highly resistant to pests and disease, making it an ideal strain for newcomers and fans of low-maintenance cultivation. AROMAS, FLAVORS, AND EFFECTS OF WATERMELON CANDY F1 HYBRID AUTOMATIC If we haven't already sold you on the power of F1 hybrid genetics, the proof is in the pudding. Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic is teaming with terpenes and cannabinoids, making for a lively high coupled with huge flavors. Just one hit is all it takes to sample rich fruitiness mixed with sweet candies and a slight earthiness to back it up. And with an average THC content of 23%, the effects are euphoric at the start but settle into deep relaxation soon after. Whether you're chilling alone or with friends, Watermelon Candy F1 Automatic will see you right. So seeds of all brands, in addition to these great F1 Hybrids and the entire Zamnesia line, fertilizers and everything related to the world of cannabis, you should buy them from the best online store in the sector www.zamnesia.io

hello growmies! day 51 finally the pre-flowers begin to appear. I apologize for the few photos but unfortunately they really filled the box and I find it difficult. overall I have to say they look in perfect shape! I will keep you updated thanks for passing by. like and comment! good day and beautiful growth to you 🌳🌱

Week 8 - Bolt 2 (Flower Week 2) SB4Q - BOG Sour Bubble (BOG Bubble BX2) Sour Bubble - BOG Seeds (BOG Bubble x BOG Bubble) Harvest Window: Early Harvest: 52 ± 5 Days (7.4 Flower Weeks) 8 - 18 March 2023 or Late Harvest: 84 ± 5 Days in Flower (12 Week Flowering) 7 - 17 April 2023 Veg Week Start of Week: [ 2023-02-08, BSBQ4 56:F:9:1] End of Week: [ 2023-02-14, SB4Q 62:F:9:7] HeightWeekStart: [ 8.5, in] HeightWeekEnd: [ 9.0, in] #Last Topping GERMINATION: 2022-12-16T14:25:51-0600 Week’s Environment TempAvgMaxMin: [ x, y, z, °F] RHAvgMaxMin: [ x, y, z, %] VPDAvgMaxMin: [ x, y, z, kPa] LightDistance: [ 21.5, in] LightDimmer: [ 50 + 2 ticks, %] LightPPFD: [ 786, µmol/m2/s] # 2/3 the way to 1000 PPFD at the center ~r ReservoirTemperature: [ 56.5, ±1.5, °F] Fertigation The Rooted Leaf Hydro Chart: - [ Primer A, 8.6, ml, gal] - [ Primer B, 8.6, ml, gal] - [ Silica Skin, 4.3, ml, gal] - EC: 2.5 13, 13, 6.5 pA, pB, Ss, Lush green 4.3, 4.3, 3.25, 3 7, 7, 3.5 Fertigation The Rooted Leaf Hydro Chart: - [ Primer A, 28, ml, 3 gal] - [ Primer B, 28 ml, 3 gal] - [ Silica Skin, 13, ml, 3 gal] The Rooted Leaf Foliar Chart: Monday: Solar Rain: 20, ml, gal Silica Skin: 20, ml, gal Mammoth-P: [ 3, drops, pt] Wednesday: CalMag Fuel: 20, ml, gal Lush Green: 5, ml, gal Mammoth-P: [ 3, drops, pt] Friday: Solar Rain: 20, ml, gal Mammoth-P: [ 3, drops, pt] Peak Bloom: 5, ml, gal ___________________ Wed 08 February 2023 BSBQ4 56:F:9:1, 6:B:1:6 Thu 09 February 2023 BSBQ4 57:F:9:1, 7:B:1:7 Fri 10 February 2023 BSBQ4 57:F:9:1, 8:B:2:1 Sat 11 February 2023 BSBQ4 57:F:9:1, 9:B:2:2 Sun 12 February 2023 BSBQ4 57:F:9:1, 10:B:2:3  - Defoliated 3rd Node Fans, as they were hanging and blocking understory air flow - Installed Copper Core Wire trainers to spread final 2 nodes of 4 meristems. - Raised Lamp to LightDistance: [ 14.5, in] - Adjusted dimmer to yield - Center: [ 885, µmol/m2/s] - Corners: [ 530, µmol/m2/s]   ___________________ Mon 13 February 2023 BSBQ4 57:F:9:1, 11:B:2:4 Tue 14 February 2023 BSBQ4 57:F:9:1, 12:B:2:5

I can not believe.😲 We have reached the end of another magnificent journey made together on this splendid platform which gives ease and opportunity to learn and perform in the best crops I can already tell you that this baked tent is one of the best weeds I have ever grown so far! But this can also be seen from the contents. Spectacular colors, solid gems....and resin in rivers Stay updated for the white smoke 😋😎

What's in the soil? What's not in the soil would be an easier question to answer. 16-18 DLI @ the minute. +++ as she grows. Probably not recommended, but to get to where it needs to be, I need to start now. Vegetative @1400ppm 0.8–1.2 kPa 80–86°F (26.7–30°C) 65–75%, LST Day 10, Fim'd Day 11 CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity): This is a measure of a soil's ability to hold and exchange positively charged nutrients, like calcium, magnesium, and potassium. Soils with high CEC (more clay and organic matter) have more negative charges that attract and hold these essential nutrients, preventing them from leaching away. Biochar is highly efficient at increasing cation exchange capacity (CEC) compared to many other amendments. Biochar's high CEC potential stems from its negatively charged functional groups, and studies show it can increase CEC by over 90%. Amendments like compost also increase CEC but are often more prone to rapid biodegradation, which can make biochar's effect more long-lasting. biochar acts as a long-lasting Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) enhancer because its porous, carbon-rich structure provides sites for nutrients to bind to, effectively improving nutrient retention in soil without relying on the short-term benefits of fresh organic matter like compost or manure. Biochar's stability means these benefits last much longer than those from traditional organic amendments, making it a sustainable way to improve soil fertility, water retention, and structure over time. Needs to be charged first, similar to Coco, or it will immobilize cations, but at a much higher ratio. a high cation exchange capacity (CEC) results in a high buffer protection, meaning the soil can better resist changes in pH and nutrient availability. This is because a high CEC soil has more negatively charged sites to hold onto essential positively charged nutrients, like calcium and magnesium, and to buffer against acid ions, such as hydrogen. EC (Electrical Conductivity): This measures the amount of soluble salts in the soil. High EC levels indicate a high concentration of dissolved salts and can be a sign of potential salinity issues that can harm plants. The stored cations associated with a medium's cation exchange capacity (CEC) do not directly contribute to a real-time electrical conductivity (EC) reading. A real-time EC measurement reflects only the concentration of free, dissolved salt ions in the water solution within the medium. 98% of a plants nutrients comes directly from the water solution. 2% come directly from soil particles. CEC is a mediums storage capacity for cations. These stored cations do not contribute to a mediums EC directly. Electrical Conductivity (EC) does not measure salt ions adsorbed (stored) onto a Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) site, as EC measures the conductivity of ions in solution within a soil or water sample, not those held on soil particles. A medium releases stored cations to water by ion exchange, where a new, more desirable ion from the water solution temporarily displaces the stored cation from the medium's surface, a process also seen in plants absorbing nutrients via mass flow. For example, in water softeners, sodium ions are released from resin beads to bond with the medium's surface, displacing calcium and magnesium ions which then enter the water. This same principle applies when plants take up nutrients from the soil solution: the cations are released from the soil particles into the water in response to a concentration equilibrium, and then moved to the root surface via mass flow. An example of ion exchange within the context of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) is a soil particle with a negative charge attracting and holding positively charged nutrient ions, like potassium (K+) or calcium (Ca2+), and then exchanging them for other positive ions present in the soil solution. For instance, a negatively charged clay particle in soil can hold a K+ ion and later release it to a plant's roots when a different cation, such as calcium (Ca2+), is abundant and replaces the potassium. This process of holding and swapping positively charged ions is fundamental to soil fertility, as it provides plants with essential nutrients. Negative charges on soil particles: Soil particles, particularly clay and organic matter, have negatively charged surfaces due to their chemical structure. Attraction of cations: These negative charges attract and hold positively charged ions, or cations, such as: Potassium (K+) Calcium (Ca2+) Magnesium (Mg2+) Sodium (Na+) Ammonium (NH4+) Plant roots excrete hydrogen ions (H+) through the action of proton pumps embedded in the root cell membranes, which use ATP (energy) to actively transport H+ ions from inside the root cell into the surrounding soil. This process lowers the pH of the soil, which helps to make certain mineral nutrients, such as iron, more available for uptake by the plant. Mechanism of H+ Excretion Proton Pumps: Root cells contain specialized proteins called proton pumps (H+-ATPases) in their cell membranes. Active Transport: These proton pumps use energy from ATP to actively move H+ ions from the cytoplasm of the root cell into the soil, against their concentration gradient. Role in pH Regulation: This active excretion of H+ is a major way plants regulate their internal cytoplasmic pH. Nutrient Availability: The resulting decrease in soil pH makes certain essential mineral nutrients, like iron, more soluble and available for the root cells to absorb. Ion Exchange: The H+ ions also displace positively charged mineral cations from the soil particles, making them available for uptake. Iron Uptake: In response to iron deficiency stress, plants enhance H+ excretion and reductant release to lower the pH and convert Fe3+ to the more available form Fe2+. The altered pH can influence the activity and composition of beneficial microbes in the soil. The H+ gradient created by the proton pumps can also be used for other vital cell functions, such as ATP synthesis and the transport of other solutes. The hydrogen ions (H+) excreted during photosynthesis come from the splitting of water molecules. This splitting, called photolysis, occurs in Photosystem II to replace the electrons used in the light-dependent reactions. The released hydrogen ions are then pumped into the thylakoid lumen, creating a proton gradient that drives ATP synthesis. Plants release hydrogen ions (H+) from their roots into the soil, a process that occurs in conjunction with nutrient uptake and photosynthesis. These H+ ions compete with mineral cations for the negatively charged sites on soil particles, a phenomenon known as cation exchange. By displacing beneficial mineral cations, the excreted H+ ions make these nutrients available for the plant to absorb, which can also lower the soil pH and indirectly affect its Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) by altering the pool of exchangeable cations in the soil solution. Plants use proton (H+) exudation, driven by the H+-ATPase enzyme, to release H+ ions into the soil, creating a more acidic rhizosphere, which enhances nutrient availability and influences nutrient cycling processes. This acidification mobilizes insoluble nutrients like iron (Fe) by breaking them down, while also facilitating the activity of beneficial microbes involved in the nutrient cycle. Therefore, H+ exudation is a critical plant strategy for nutrient acquisition and management, allowing plants to improve their access to essential elements from the soil. A lack of water splitting during photosynthesis can affect iron uptake because the resulting energy imbalance disrupts the plant's ability to produce ATP and NADPH, which are crucial for overall photosynthetic energy conversion and can trigger a deficiency in iron homeostasis pathways. While photosynthesis uses hydrogen ions produced from water splitting for the Calvin cycle, not to create a hydrogen gas deficiency, the overall process is sensitive to nutrient availability, and iron is essential for chloroplast function. In photosynthesis, water is split to provide electrons to replace those lost in Photosystem II, which is triggered by light absorption. These electrons then travel along a transport chain to generate ATP (energy currency) and NADPH (reducing power). Carbon Fixation: The generated ATP and NADPH are then used to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates in the Calvin cycle. Impaired water splitting (via water in or out) breaks the chain reaction of photosynthesis. This leads to an imbalance in ATP and NADPH levels, which disrupts the Calvin cycle and overall energy production in the plant. Plants require a sufficient supply of essential mineral elements like iron for photosynthesis. Iron is vital for chlorophyll formation and plays a crucial role in electron transport within the chloroplasts. The complex relationship between nutrient status and photosynthesis is evident when iron deficiency can be reverted by depleting other micronutrients like manganese. This highlights how nutrient homeostasis influences photosynthetic function. A lack of adequate energy and reducing power from photosynthesis, which is directly linked to water splitting, can trigger complex adaptive responses in the plant's iron uptake and distribution systems. Plants possess receptors called transceptors that can directly detect specific nutrient concentrations in the soil or within the plant's tissues. These receptors trigger signaling pathways, sometimes involving calcium influx or changes in protein complex activity, that then influence nutrient uptake by the roots. Plants use this information to make long-term adjustments, such as Increasing root biomass to explore more soil for nutrients. Modifying metabolic pathways to make better use of available resources. Adjusting the rate of nutrient transport into the roots. That's why I keep a high EC. Abundance resonates Abundance.

Checked the fast bud Cherry Cola and gorilla cookies in paper towel and it had a nice tap root so it went in to the the Ocean from Fox farm with the center using a starter seed CoCo mix. So now we have two seed planted with tap roots in soil with clear solo cup over the top with some spritzes of water in the cup to keep the humidity up over the seed until they pop through the soil.

Comming into the 2022 season, this year I decided to go with a friend's prized cut of unknown bag seed origins. It was free and the flower I smoked was amazing. Let's see how they do this year. So as always started with 15 gal fabric pots and filled them up with promix hp. Amended the soil with 70/30 ratio of Gaia green 444 and 284 at 4tspg. This year I also decided to amend the soil with worm castings at 7.5lbs/15gal of soil. For watering we used tap water @6.4pH mixed with 50mL of molassas to 5 gal of water. Stick trap indicators are put up to monitor pests such as gnats. The ladies are about 6-8weeks old clones for reference. See you on the next update!

Hell guys 👋 ☘️❤️‍🔥😊 - 1st day of flowering for Lava Cake (26/8) - Expect Critical all the other flowers show their genders with the first white hairs. - New pot 10lt for Ak - Day 24 and LLST (Lazy Low Stress Training) - No nutrients Biobizz at all so far. - 1st day of flowering for Frosted Guava (31/8) Cheers everyone ☘️❤️‍🔥😊

Day 15 - First day in the second week of veg cycle and I am generally happy with both ladies. Cheech is looking like she is bending over a little with the weight of her leaves, so I’ve given her a bit of help to keep her steady and strong. I’ve also noticed that the roots on Cheech are sticking together and a bit darker than I would like. This could mean that the air stone left a “dead spot” where the water wasn’t circulating properly. I’ve adjusted the air stone to be more centre in the bucket and made sure that the water is cold enough to prevent potential root rot. Will need to keep a close eye for the next week or so. Lights have been not been adjusted (still at 60cm from seedlings) because there has only been about a 2cm growth in the last week. Changed the water (10L), buckets and nutrients to keep everything healthy. The tubes for the air bubblers are wiped down because the nutrients stick to the pipe. Milwaukee PH controller is running for about 1 hour to bring the PH down again from the addition of the nutrients and change in water. Day 17 and we have a clear front runner in Cheech. Her third node is open with a fourth clearly visible. Venezia has a clear third node, but it isn’t fully open yet with the fourth just barely starting. Day 20 - Cheech has a clear fourth node now and the fifth is starting to show whereas Venezia is one node behind. They are looking healthy and they will be ready to be topped in the coming week of veg

Day 42 Flowering: Hi all. These girls are motoring along so nicely now and using every available lumen that this wicked little beast of a light can throw out. The Northern lights #1 has spent the week putting new pistils out to join the nice fresh ones from the previous week. There are only one or two pistils that are turning orange so a long way off her final flush of flowers and ripening. This is a good sign of possible things to come. With a longer flowering period , we get a bigger bud !!. Lol There are numerous mains that have now become long bud spikes so should produce a nice yield too. Still sparkling white and a slight tackiness if touched. Smell is just beginning to be evident with a slight hint of sweetness. Grandaddys mimosa is beginning to colour up all over now and her bids are looking more developed in ripeness than the other last too. She does have a lot of leaf to bid it seems but as she swells , this should look less compacted. She is only a small lady in height with around 7 mains developing as spikes. Her smell is a nice juicy fruit aroma so far and I can feel her sticky thc when I rub the stems. They are really developing well now and I am so pleased with the performance of the XS1500. A great light . The other surrogates that are elsewhere are all going well too with the 2 Gorilla cookies really pushing some nice bud sizes out. Nice sized ,stacked colas are all over their structure of both plants and even the lowers are beginning to look good. The #2 Northern lights ( mutant) is catching up with her sister and friends now but is about a week behind in size development. She is a long limbed lady with cluster buds so a lot less productive looking than her sister but she looks nice and healthy with it.. I am noticing a slight mottling on the leaves of a few plants now so I will be adding calmag to the next feed to stop this getting too far and losing energy from photosynthesis. I expect a little yellowing off of older leaves to begin showing now too but the use of coco and L.E.D usually includes adding calmag as they both leech mg from the soil and plants. Hopefully I can catch it before it gets an issue. Temps are more reasonable now the heatwaves are done here so any extra co2 from the exhale bag can now be used as a booster and not to survive. Another good week for the ladies and the xs1500. Keep smiling growmies. The deception is falling apart now !!