The beginning of the full flowering phase But there are some species that have not yet bloomed. GORILLA ZKITTLEZ (Week 0–>1) 4 plants SUPERHERO (Week 0->1) 4 plants PURPLE PUNCH COOKIE (W0) 2 plants WATERMELON ZKITTLEZ (W0) 1 plants CAKES N CREAM (W0) 1 plants

So far so good no complaints.

NL untopped is a monster pictures of NL topped follows (other tent) nutrients above are for NL topped (here low EC 1.2-1.3) for milf untopped (with Aptus nutrients) the EC is mostly 1.6 -2.0 in the meantime my Aptus MILF drinks 4 l each day...nutrified...feeded with the following: Aptus all in one 1 ml/l Aptus regulartor 3 drops/l Aptus start booster 4 drops/l (this week last time) Aptus callmag booster 1 ml/l since yesterday added: Aptus topbooster 4 drops/l Aptus P-boost 0.6 ml/l

My Runtz plant has some dark green leaves, and they're the most interesting of all the plants in the tent. They're really pointy and almost look like they have some old European genetics. It's been a challenging week with the constant rain and ridiculously high humidity. Keeping things dry indoors has been a real struggle. Despite the weather, I managed to flip all my feminized photoperiod plants to flower this week. I'm hoping the switch will go smoothly, but with this humidity, it's going to be tough.

Very satisfying very Sticky as heck. Smells already only few wk into flower.. She is going to be very strong.. Love it

15.06.25. Day 30. Plants are looking healthy. Lots of growth in past week. She is showing preflower so I switched to flowering nutrients. First reservoir change out since I placed them into buckets. One plant topped herself because of rapid growth, I did not pull back training wire on main node and so the branch snapped where it was tied down. She is entering stretch now so I took of training wire on all plants. 18.06.25. Day 33! Defoliation, lilipop.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

7/13/25 - 7/16/25 Flipped as another strain is gonna be a problem otherwise. Very stumpy and thicc lady, already smells very funky and rotten. Now we wait and see what emerges in flower. 7/17/25 - 7/19/25 One hungry girl, she is on 100% feed rn. And god she stinks, really gives u burning nostrils. I know copycat is a sensitive topic in the breeder world but he knows his shit. I am abaolutely going to get more of his shit.

Day 80, 2nd of December 2020: Hi there! Ladies are cool everything is alright. In one week buds strated doubeling and the developement is dope haha. The 2 Zamnesia ladies are pretty Gelato is so nice bushy and the smell is great as well. Kalini Asia will be a green pheno I think and she my be hermied a bit on me.... I am still waiting to see I see some strange develepement lets say. Sweet Seeds girls are dope unfortunately Red Mandarine and Tropicanns poison don't show any sign of colouting yet but it is okay even if they green phenos.... It may happen in the end of the flowering cycle let's see. Basically that's all I wanted to share. Oh yes... this one: All good the lamp is now on 11 hours and off 13 hours. Every week 15 minutes was taken off and after 4 weeks here we go. Strated 12/12 and now 13/11 wanted try to imitate the nature as the light days are getting shorter. Fertilization has changed no more epsom salt from this week and I will stop giving nitrogen as well from next week. Great job Sweet Seeds and Zamnesia! Nice genetics :) Lovely plants!

19/09/2025 19:15 Very good climate this week,finally buds are bumping and showing some frostyness Almost at the 12/12 light cycle now,days will be soon shorter and croptober Is near Pic #1 and #2 Coco Milk and Coco fresh before defoliation and Lollipopping Pic #3 video #2 and#3 Coco Milk 62 days from seed Heavy defoliation on this one pretty impressive,there Is a lot of leaves,but i wanted to do from the start because this time i didn't top like i use to Buds have already a good flavour not so strong but sure It will be Pic #4 video #4 Coco fresh 50 days from seed Defoliated less because It was dark,next time i will cut the rest but not as much as the Coco Milk Flowers now forming but they are very small,i think this could be the last plant to harvest Video #1 Apricot auto 58 days from seed Buds now stacking this could be one of the fastest autoflower but also the one with the lower yield since the very first one Smell Is just like rotten fruit,awesome At the end there Is what i left of the gorilla z,those buds seems to flower Forever Video #5 21/09/2025 gorilla z joint While the gorilla z and the frostbanger are still hanging in the dark at 20°C 48%rh,the bud i took more than a week ago Is fully crisp and ready to be tested Nice smoke not so flavourful but clean,ash looks pretty clean too,i hope with a proper cure It will be Better High is not so strong on the body initially,only after some minutes tou can fell the body slowly relax Next week it will be probably rainy as hell,maybe i will be back at the end of September

Hey now, hope everyone is having a great weekend and staying safe. Another great week for the ladies, as they are now almost halfway through flowering which is 4 weeks into flower, and the stretch has just finished. I am still feeding them silica, cal mag, and flower nutrients maxi bloom by GHE. I did start to add a PK booster last week pushing the EC up to 1.4. I also switched the Medic Grow light from V1 to the F1 Spectrum at the beginning of last week, and will be integrating the UV/IR bar into the light cycle later this week. I will run the UV/IR bar for approximately 30 minutes prior to lights off to get started. The tallest plants are the Sundae Driver and the Durban Nights at 44" and the Red Hot Cookies is the shortest plant at 40" however they all look happy and healthy and capable of easily giving up a half pound each. The 5X5 tent is starting to really fill up and they are just now starting to smell. I was out of town all weekend so I was unable to make a time lapse video but I will update next week. I did defoliate twice this week and I may do one or two more rounds before just letting them do their thing. Not much to do from here on out except make sure the reservoir is full and the PH is in the proper range. I hope everyone has a great weekend, Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

🌱 Week 3 – Gorilla Cookies Auto Pheno Hunt Another week down and the differences between the phenos are becoming more obvious every day 👀🔥 The environment stayed very stable this week with temperatures, humidity, and VPD remaining consistent. Because all plants are growing under the exact same conditions, it’s really interesting to see how differently each phenotype develops genetically. 📈 Current observations: Several phenos are already reaching close to 30 cm in height Meanwhile, some smaller phenos — especially Pheno #6 — are still around 13 cm Leaf structure and overall plant shape continue to vary a lot between phenos Growth vigor is clearly different from plant to plant now 💧 Feeding & maintenance: This week the plants received their first proper feeding with around 4 liters of nutrient water. Some phenos seem to react more sensitively to the nutrients, as a few plants are starting to show slight brown leaf tips, so I’ll keep a close eye on them over the next days 👀 I also removed more large fan leaves to improve light penetration and allow the lower branches to develop more evenly. 📊 Current environment: Temperature stable around 26°C Humidity staying between 63–65% VPD maintained around 1.3 kPa Light intensity remaining at 35% Now I’m really curious to see when the first flowering signs will appear 🌸🔥 💬 Which pheno would you pick so far?

Day 56 - She grew 6cm this week. Growing well. Not much for me to do. Day 56 - Tent configuration changed: 4x more CREE CXB3590's have been added and 4x blurple LED things removed. Lights now consist of 8x CXB3590's & 1x 1000W HID with flower bulb.

Aug 2: Tropicana Cookies FF is three weeks younger than my two biggest plants (Sunday Punch EV and Mimosa Shot) and two weeks younger than Lemon Cream Kush. This is a very strong plant and is progressing very well. This wagon with LCK started force flowering a week later than the other wagon and will go another week longer. TC is now the tallest of the four plants despite being the youngest. Aug 5: now done force flowering after 2.5 weeks. Plants in this wagon are getting too big to easily get into garage. Continuing to use far red light as a bloom booster at dusk. Back to 15.5 h of daylight in the backyard now.

*Growdiaries deleted this section (don't ask me why). So everything in this week is from the top of my head (like 2 weeks later): _Environment This week, I went back to watering (gently) to get the soil used to a ‘normal’ assimilation rate again. As a result, the temperature dropped slightly, while the relative humidity increased at the same time (which was of course elevated by the fact that I removed the sand at the end of last week). _Plants + Training Gentle defoliation continued this week. However, it became apparent that Mimosa Cake Auto requires significantly more attention than Gorilla Z Auto, as it grows incredibly densely and intertwines. It also seemed like the Mimosa Cake Auto was about to crack due to the high forces (no space to bend and stretch because everything is just nodes and side branches). *Gorilla Z Auto was ??? cm tall, Mimosa Cake Auto ??? cm. _Organisms As you can see, microbial life is still in full swing. Numerous springtails can be seen (yellow sticky traps), Oribatida are decomposing organic material, etc. _Living Soil To check the most important indicator of healthy soil life, I carried out a pH test this week. This showed a value of 7, which is slightly too high but definitely within an acceptable range. [Living soil should be between 6 and 7, ideally 6.4–6.6.] _(Pre)Flower Mimosa Cake also started showing its first pistils (it seems like both plants are 5 - 10 days apart).

Week two is upon us ! I have a new pocket size humidifier and it works great!! The low temperatures of my nights already bring out some purple on the leaves. Im pleased to see this so early in its lifespan. Although i have to be careful not to stunt her with too cold nights. I mixed a 1/4 of the recommended dose of nutrients for her first feeding. By doing so im reducing the risk of nutrients burn. To be honest i will get a few burnt tips on the firs set of leaves but id rather have a bit too much then less at this stage. The first leaves will drop first so i wont mind them being less attractive. The internode distance is good for a indica so far and i am pleased of the results so far. The glasses i use are yellow tinted and apparently they do a good job at correcting the colours for spotting deficiencies

Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest Memes for the fastbuds meme contest

Mr. Jones Fast Buds Moby Dick ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 🏡Indoor - 3"x4"x8" Custom Built Grow Closet 🌾This strain likes to stretch, so a heavy training regiment will be needed. 🗓️Germenation - Soaking in Water Strait into Amended Soil. ⚱️3-Gallon Pots 📊6.4 / 6.8 PH 💧 Feeding - Gaia Green Grow / Bloom 🕷️ IPM - We will be using Green Cleaner" 1 OZ per Gallon, and CannControl from Mammoth alternating between products each month for Integrated Pest Management. 🌿╰⊰´🌿╰⊰´🌿 PLANT UPDATES 🌿╰⊰´🌿╰⊰´🌿 🗓️Saturday - 11.11.23 So last week I did some training 1 plant was topped, 1 plant was LST, and the last one, the smallest one, was left alone, I am happy with the recovery as we head into week 4, this week that most FB strains begin to stretch into flower, today I started a compost tea, see recipe below, will be feeding tomorrow. Moved the plants into my stealth closet, under 2 Vipar Spectare XS 1500s. ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 📝 Notes - Original Moby Dick Auto is a world-renowned Sativa-dominant giant created from two of the most popular strains ever, the White Widow and Haze cannabis strains which are known for the huge delicious aroma, huge size and yields; It’s an extremely easy-to-grow variety highly recommended for growers of all levels seeking for maximum yields with minimum effort as this strain grows up to 150cm and yields up to 650 g/m2 in 10 weeks without extra maintenance. Thanks to its 23% THC, this marvelous hybrid is all about happiness as it will melt your worries away while boosting your mood, leaving you with a big fat smile on your face and ready to get things done as soon as you take the first hit, making it an excellent choice for social scenarios and busy workdays. The Sativa effect comes hand-in-hand with a mix of lemony, piney, and woody terpenes that translate into that classic aroma every stoner loves. ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 ╰⊰´🌿 Compost Tea 3 Gallons Dechlorinated H20 3 Cups Malibu Compost 2T Molasses 2 T Alfalfa Meal (DTE) 2 T Kelp Meal (DTE) 1 T Bat Guano (DTE) 1 teaspoon Rootwise Bio Elixir 1)- I used a small paint strainer to hold my composts, placing an air stone right in the bag and zip-tie it nice and tight - this allows air bubbles to really agitate the micro matter off of the compost and into your tea 2)- I like to mix in the molasses (microbe food) and start my main air stone, the dry amendments and Rootwise can be just measured in the bubbles 3) - Keep the temp of the water warm to 75F/85F - too cool and the microbes reproduce too slowly and too hot will kill them. I do not delete my teas and let the plant pots dry out slightly before feeding.

Going good, thinned out some. Put a better video on Instagram