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I have a cal mag deficiency I’ve already treated it. We are on cruise control at this point, just waiting in the finish line.
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The stretch phase is over and the Platinum Zooks is doing fabolous😃 I gave her a heavy haircut (defol & lollipop) @ day 11 of flower. ( she didn't mind ) On day 18 of flower i'm gonna give her, her first Bio-Tabs Compost Tea to give her a little extra push in the back.
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Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Cette plante est vraiment exceptionnelle! Elle représente la force et j'en suis fier 😍 La semaine 4 est déjà la ! Ma plante est saine le LST ce passe relativement bien je l'ajuste tout les jour je le combine avec la technique du pincage d'Apex cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Le pinçage est une pratique courante en horticulture. Beaucoup de cultivateurs l'utilisent pour améliorer le rendement de leurs plantations cannabiques ou autres. Il est souvent question de 'taille' des bourgeons apicaux. Cette taille se pratique également mais il n'est plus alors, à proprement parler, question de pinçage. A l'instar d'une taille, le pinçage va permettre de stimuler le développement des ramifications tout en préservant les sommités en vue de la floraison. Il est très utile pour uniformiser une canopée. Pour réaliser le pinçage, il vous suffit de presser 'fermement' la tige [entre le pouce et l'index] aux environs de l'apex jusqu'à sentir un léger 'crAck'. Cela aura pour résultat d'endommager les vaisseaux impliqués dans la circulation de la sève [situés dans le pourtour de la tige], la tige conserve toutefois une certaine rigidité. Pour obtenir le même résultat, il est également possible de vriller légèrement la tige sur elle-même. L'interruption du circuit d'alimentation entre le ou les apex et le reste du plant va provoquer un déséquilibre hormonal qui aura pour conséquence le développement des ramifications antérieures au point de pinçage. Jour 25 j'arrose mon pot normalement avec un quart de son volume en eau toujours avec un PH de 6.3 à cette eau j'ajoute 0.7 gramme de greenhouse feeding enhancer pour favoriser son développement racinaire. Par la suite je n'aurai plus qu'à ajuster mon LST jusqu'au stretch et surveiller mon arrosage, Je pincerai mes apex suivant la pousse de la plante pour uniformiser la canopé. Petit rappel de ce que est le LST et comment le pratiquer le plus efficacement possible: Quand commencer à appliquer la technique LST De nombreux cultivateurs commencent la manipulation dés que les plantes possèdent entre 3 et 6 nœuds ou une paire de feuilles. Durant cette première étape de la croissance, le tronc encore flexible est pliable sans risque qu’il ne se casse, même si au fur et à mesure du développement de la plante il sera de plus en plus difficile de le plier. Nous pouvons continuer à guider la croissance des branches durant toute la culture, même durant la floraison, ce qui pour cette étape représente un grand avantage face à la taille, qui n’est pas du tout recommandé une fois que la formation des têtes commence, cela stressera en effet la plante, ce qui aura pour effet de retarder la récolte. Comment appliquer la technique de guidage LST Si nous sommes prudents, la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. En utilisant une corde fine, nous pouvons accrocher la pointe de la plante à la base du pot par exemple ou à un tuteur que nous aurons planté dans le substrat. Nous plierons le tronc avec précaution et nous le fixerons avec la corde, à partir de là, nous pouvons augmenter progressivement la tension de la corde, chaque jour un peu plus, jusqu’à obtenir la position souhaitée. Soyez attentif à la réaction de la plante, essayez de ne pas appliquer trop de pression sur la corde et rappelez-vous que la flexibilité des branches peut varier d’une plante à l’autre. Pour obtenir de meilleurs résultats, il suffit de suivre quelques règles simples. Pour commencer, nous devons choisir une corde fine mais pas trop pour ne pas blesser les troncs au fur et à mesure qu’ils grandissent et qu’ils deviennent plus gros. Nous pouvons utiliser des crochets en plastique souple ou de n’importe quelle autre matière flexible pour éviter d’endommager les plantes. Spécialement en intérieur, utiliser des cordons en plastique de couleur (voir les diaries de @Silky) est très pratique pour voir facilement les accroches et faciliter le travail au milieu du réseau formés par les cordes, les tuteurs, les mailles ou les supports que nous aurons dans la culture. Bien entendu, en culture extérieure et surtout en guerilla nous ferons juste le contraire et nous utiliserons des matériaux de couleur qui n’attirent pas l’attention pour que notre jardin reste discret. Pour stresser les plantes au minimum, la mieux est de réaliser ces manipulations le soir ou juste après que les lampes en intérieur s’éteignent, ce qui leur permettra de se remettre durant la nuit. Normalement, le jour suivant nous pourrons observer comme les pointes des branches que nous avons pliées se dressent de nouveau vers le haut à la recherche d’une source de lumière. Je combine un pincage d'Apex (explications plus haut) au LST cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Que la force soit avec vous 💪
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If you are lonely when you are alone, then you are in bad company. Bee pollen is considered a “vitamin bomb” due to the presence of almost all vitamins with an average of 0.02–0.7% of its total content, with a higher amount of water-soluble than fat-soluble vitamins. Bee pollen contains vitamins A, D, E, B1, B2, B6, and C. It also provides minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, copper, manganese, iron, and selenium, I mixed a bunch of that with some honey and RAW cane molasses to make a nice big bucket of tea. A family friend who is a beekeeper was kind enough to share some honey. The nutritional content of raw honey is impressive and includes high levels of protein, amino acids, B vitamins, calcium, manganese, potassium, magnesium, zinc, and iron, as well as various polyphenolic antioxidants. I am loading up nature's finest sugars, and sweet things, Honey & Mollases. UV-B-induced DNA damage (CPDs and 6–4 PPs) can be repaired efficiently by photolyases. Pyrimidine dimers can be repaired by nucleotide excision repair (NER), or bypassed by replicative polymerases (Britt 2004). The expression of the CPD photolyase (PHR) gene is induced by UV-B light dependent on UVR8 signaling pathway, and is also induced by blue and UV-A light (Li et al. 2015) https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s44154-022-00076-9?fromPaywallRec=true Old but gold. The camera picks up far more light than there is during the night cycle, camera is showing bright pink violet collages but my eyes barely see a thing, about 0.25ppfd in that tent overnight. Have been tweaking the spectrum of moonlight/intensity and watching the responses overnight. Tweak, tweak, tweak all week. PAR is 400-700nm, Overnight UVA in the tent is all 365nm and 385nm, so the meter only picks up a fraction of the light curve that makes it photosynthetically active past 400nm. Of the light in the tent, 0.25ppfd is from UVA Looks like It makes them 🕺 🕺 💃 all night. Better flower soon or ill be screwed for space, they are stretching, but is it "the stretch"? She has fire in her belly. Growing crops with insufficient light (i.e., below “optimal,” as defined here) limits the yield potential, which in turn wastes the other production inputs including labour, water, nutrients and electricity. As lighting fixture is one of the most expensive investment of the production, what is the relationship between light intensity and yield? Potter and Duncombe (2012) grew cannabis plants with varying canopy-level PPFDs during the flowering stage and found that increasing PPFD from 400 to 900 μmol·m−2·s−1 increased yield an average of 1.3 times higher, across seven cultivars, with no light intensity treatment effects on floral cannabinoid concentrations. Vanhove et al. (2011) found that cannabis yields were 1.3 to 3.1 times higher (depending on cultivar) when plants were grown under approximately 1000 μmol·m−2·s−1 compared to approximately 450 μmol·m−2·s−1 during the flowering stage.It was predicted that cannabis yield would exhibit a saturating response to increasing Light intensity, thereby signifying an optimum light intensity range for indoor cannabis production. However, a new research from Morrison (2021), after 81 days‘ experiment, found that When plants grew under LI ranging from 1200 to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1 provided by light emitting diodes (LEDs), inflorescence yield increased linearly as LI increased up to 1800 μmol·m–2·s–1. "Cannabis will not stop flowering if the lights are turned on for a few minutes once or twice during the 2-month-long flowering cycle. If a light is turned on for 5 to 30 minutes—long enough to disrupt the dark period—on 3 to 5 con­secutive nights, plants will start to revert to vegetative growth." "Less than one half of one foot-candle of light (0.1ppfd) from sunlight will prevent cannabis from flow­ering. That is a little more light than is reflected by a full moon on a clear night. Well-bred indica-dominant plants will revert within three days. Sativa-dominant plants take four to five days to revert to vegetative growth. Once they start to revegetate, it can take from four to six ad­ditional weeks to induce flowering again!" Guess ill find out my answer soon.
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Full plant weight - 960g wet at harvest Full plant weight - 236g at 7 days drying 10 days - Trimmed weight - 6oz and 4 grams (172g) Using Grove bags to cure / store - 2 weeks til testing.
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1/12/23 all plants stretching nicely. P4 is vary one sided and P1-3 have similar structures. Starting 12/12 cycle tomorrow, still no pre-flower but should have signs by the end of next week. Hoping for at least 2 oz of or each plant.
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02.06. the previous week I took to cutting back everything except 8-10 branches per plant. Each arm remains with sprouts at the top only (like lollipoping but with the leaves still on). I contemplated for a while before doing this an compared with last year's growth. Definitely want less little stuff in the lower region and a cleaner structure overall. TMV on the Quick Sherbet leaves looks contained. White clover growing along well, gave 1g / L of greenhouse feeding bio enhancer. This week is mostly cloudy and rainy so expect slower growth but good progress.
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7/22 Did some light deflation nothing crazy Had turn on the dehumidifier humidity been getting to high besides that everything seems cool
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will have to see but at 8 & 10 weeks, i think they look a little small. as long as i continue watering, this new maxsisun mf2000 should fatten these buds up. cant wait for next grow with the new light in 3x3 tent. this is becoming the best hobby i can recall next to working in my garden all summer. and this grow diary is great as you can have an honest review of progress etc...i have learned so much from this community. Thanks and Blessings for all!
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@nonick123
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Día 129 (07/10) Riego con 750 / 1.000 ml H2O de osmosis Empiezan a moderarse las temperaturas con 28 ºC de máxima Día 130 (08/10) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O de ósmosis Las temperaturas están sobre 25 °C Día 131 (09/10) Riego con 500 / 750 ml H2O de ósmosis Día 132 (10/10) Riego con 750 / 1,250 ml H2O de ósmosis Día 133 (11/10) Riego con 750 / 1,250 ml H2O de ósmosis Día 134 (12/10) Riego con 500 / 1.000 ml H2O de ósmosis Reviso los tricomas y estos indican que estamos más o menos a una semana de la cosecha! 50% trasparentes / 50% nublados Día 135 (13/10) Riego con 1 litro H2O pH 6,5 + Kelp Hidrolizado 0,3 g/L 💦Nutrients by Lurpe Solutions - www.lurpenaturalsolutions.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae
Processing
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@kenzleu
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Purple starting to come through on plant 2! At what point do you start your 2 week flush? (if you do). First grow and kind of anxious about doing it too soon or too late.
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Some nice Balcony Bombs forming, internodial distance is still very short and i did not notice much of a stretch overall to be honest. The Smell is getting more intense day by day, but the profile is kinda flat, albeith sweet. Excited to see it further down the road
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@BB_UK
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beautiful girl ill suggest for anyone to grow! the trim was easy as i prepared the harvest and defoliated along the way! i took a different route that will now add to my future grows where i lowered the lights power to 50-60% and lowered the light close to the tops and had my light turning off 2 hours earlier for the last 3 days! and wow oh wow the density the terpenes the THC i can't wait for her to dry, my normal is 5 days! she smelled so good! could especially catch that mint when pulling off the little fan leaves! she has so many tones! will be sure to seek out some more from super sativa seed club! they're impressive! video will be added and updated as soon as its rendered! be sure to check out my Instagram page for daily updates!
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@JBL007
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Všechno probíhá hladce, jediné co nedodržuji je vpd. Musím říct, že club41 je neskutečný... Osypany jako kdyby na něm byl půl roční prach a to máme teprve 5 týden a bez UV. Další kolo pojedu s UV doplnkem a opravdu mě zajímá jak to dopadne.
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@Mr_Dior21
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Man this week has been taking forever, my theory is it will only get slower relative to harvest just because my excitement. I top dressed with about 2 inches of worm castings with an eyeballed mix of 2tbps of bone meal (3-14-0, bloom fert.), 1.5-2tbps of Gaia green all purp.(4-4-4, I don’t have an actual potassium fert. Like leingbenite So I use this), 3tbps of dr earth kelp meal (1-.05-2 has many different vitamins, amino acids, carbohydrates) and 2tbps of mykos (for microbiology inoculation and nutrient uptake/upkeep). So I every time I water I have this old 2gallon water tin that I usually fill up about a quarter to half way full. Using this amount of water and the 5 gallon bucket of my soil mix makes my watering schedule once every 3 days (on average). I do use bottle nutrients but it’s mainly for the supplementing. For feeding I use 2-3ml to half a gallon for all bottle nutrients, I have never gone over, and I have never had deficiency’s that can hinder plant development. Deficiency's: PSA: Now if anyone happens to read and actually look at my plants please do look closely and maybe let me know if you see something that I have missed since I’m still very new. I noticed my plant was having a cal mag issue so that’s why I top dressed with worm castings, I also top dressed with about 3tbps of azomite (I feel using azomite it may help with all those unnoticeable deficiency’s that a new grower might miss). I’ve been noticing on some of the leaves the very tips are showing discoloring, since the color is still so vibrant mostly I can rule out nitrogen, phosphorus, Iron, manganese, and sulphuric. It’s still very early stage so I did an extremely light foliage feeding (in the dark to prevent UV damage) of 2ml of big bud, big bloom, and tiger bloom, mixed into half a liter of water, I then emptied the spray bottle and sprayed with tap water just to make sure there’s no nute burning. Today I fed the plant through water amendments with 3ml of big bud, 3ml of bud candy, 3ml of big bloom, and 2ml of tiger bloom;(my theory is hopefully the nutrient deficiency’s will go away) My soil mix is pretty basic. 40% coco, 10% perlite, 10% well composted chicken manure, 20% black gold compost, 20% worm castings. I’m not going to put the fertilizer amendment percentage to be honest I eye ball it but there’s a rough general measurements that I do.