Alrighty My Friends I had a blast growing this stuff , everytime I grow this plant its fire 🔥 and its always the same pheno so far , truly amazing 👏 stuff Nothing but budz on a stick 👌Would not only recommend 😉 but I will go a far as stating this the best smoke I've had grown to date 😋 👉Soil Provided by ProMix.ca 👉Nutrients Provided by Agrogardens 👉Lighting Provided by MarsHydro.ca Thanks my friends for the great support over the years 🙏 Happy Growing

Week 7.5 will need another 2 weeks for kush mintz and gdp for sure. Juicy g slight violet. Bubba Diagonal is stunning.

Week 10 – Day 71 (Flower Day 43) 🔄 General Notes White Widow is now at day 43 of flower – slowly approaching the finish line 🏁 💧 Water uptake has noticeably decreased, so I’ve reduced the nutrient dosage by around 20% ❓Do you guys do the same near the end of flower? I remember reading it's common practice to taper off, but I’d love to hear your thoughts! ❄️ White Widow Status Still going strong 💪 Buds are frosty, dense, and nicely uniform 💬 Honestly, the pictures speak for themselves – everything’s running smoothly!

Once again guys sorry for the lack of content, been extremely busy, also had to merge both diaries together due to poor germination. But I'm back on track and will be doing regular updates....... Well not regular because this is a weekly things but whenever it's time I'll be sure to post up. Happy Growing guys

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Welcome to my Fast Buds sponsored shootout and living organic soil v coco side by side. I also plan to use this grow to my full advantage regarding a few age old nagging questions about methods. I have had a keen interest in L.O.S ( supersoil) since reading a few threads a while back on how amazing and productive it can be. After too much research and procrastinating I had to give it a go. I have been a decades coco/nft grower and recently threw my hat in the rdwc ring too. I have avoided soil due to the overwatering worry ( heavy handed chimp brain !) and the best potting soil/feeds. Catching up on the advances in indoor soil gardening and organics led me too subcools supersoil recipes to name a few but being a town dweller with farms everywhere around me still drew blanks on a lot of the ingredients needed and where the hell I could even begin to get them from. Thankfully , commercial savvy has now made buying it in ready to use and with a full range of beneficial bacteria ect available in amendments from a grow shop here in the uk. ecothrive have realised the potential for us to dive into this medium with all the mixing , measuring and resourcing. I bit the bullet and £150 later I now have 4 x37Litre pots that will be used for as long as I want to feed the soil for without EVER needing nutrients again potentially. The coco has also had charge mixed in to encourage the bennies to colonize there too. I will be using the shogun nutes that I know do the business with coco to compare with for yield , growth and taste. I have 3 seeds each of 4 Fast Buds Strains to use as a control for the grow and am journaling each strain in their own diaries. This statement will be used to start each one as the information is identical at this point but following this I will do them individually. I am now starting their second week since opening the seed packets , straight into soaked and shook root riot cubes and into the heated propagator. They had all showed their heads by end of day 3 and a couple needed helmet surgery to open up without being hindered . I have has them in the prop for a few days but they needed to get settled as they were popping roots out all over the cubes. They have now been in their final pots for 2 days complete and starting their 3rd today at day 8 since planting in cubes. I am impressed with the speed and success of these girls already (12 of 13 germinated) . Well done fast buds. So here we go folks , any comments , ideas ,questions , advice are always welcome and I hope we can have some fun experimenting with defol v non defol , topping v fimming v bending and any other curiosities along the way. I plan on using a quadline for them all to keep a control for the comparisons too. Be green folks Welcome aboard and a huge thank you to Fast Buds for the opportunity to try autos.

Im doing a bit of defoliation, moreover the leaves that covering the buds, i cut some small branches on the bot of the plants, to keep energy for the distal parts of the branches. Every 2 day approximately, to no stress a lot the plants, I pinch the apex of MD1, MD2 and BB1, that my secondary branches go up, until the height of the apex central. Nutriments : 2,0 mL/L of rhizotonic, 2,5 mL/L of cannazym every watering. 2,0 mL/L of terra vega every 2 or 3 watering in case of they need (N) until the final of the strecht (first 2 weeks of bloom). I will put 5L every watering (pots of 18L) and I will analysed the drain of every plants to check pH and the fertilizer amount. Im really proud of theses plants, they are strong, resistant (the trunks are huuuge, moreover the Moby dick from Dinafem) and so healthy !! The MD 3 has reacted really really good with the topping ! Im impressed and quite sure do topping next time ;) I hope they will give me the best of themselves !!!! Lets wait the final of the strecht 😉

I just moved the mimosa inside a little growbox i bought 40x40x120 with a mes hydro 600. Let’s see!

• OCTOBER 3 ― 5 : 00 AM THE SEED WERE SOAKED IN " B I O R A G ". ( WHERE IT SPENT ABOUT 16 HOURS. ) • OCTOBER 3 ― 9 : 00 PM TRANSFER TO A COTTON PAD. • OCTOBER 5 ― 11 : 00 PM PLANTED IN THE SOIL. ✎ I USED DISTILLED WATER AND 3 MILLIGRAMS OF BIORAG FOR GERMINATION. ( 1 MILLIGRAM PER 100 GRAMS OF WOTER. 300 GRAMS IN TOTAL. ) TDC / PPM ― 7 " ბიორაგი • BIORAG " FACEBOOK ― https://www.facebook.com/bioorganicrevolution/ BLOG ― http://rgakhokidze.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html/

Strawberry Amnesia is growing well. She has show another mutation in one of the branches. Curious if she will continue to show more as the grow goes. She is becoming my little fat leaf mutant. She will be due for a solution change very soon. I defoliated and lst her some. She is kinda stubby in the height department. Everything is looking good. Thank you Herbies seeds, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Starting this week of with some (in my eyes) beautiful nighttime - shots! Also, i finally found out why Whitebalance is important on my Camera. Whoopsie! Plants got watered on Day 45 with 2,5L each, ramping up BioBloom to 3ml/L as well. If the plants dont tell me they need more, im probably only gonna ramp up topmax from here on out. With the watering, i did some more "aggressive" defoliation, focusing on the inside but also removed some larger fanleaves everywhere. PH in stays 6,5 and out Stays at 6,1 for plant B and 6,2 for Plant A. Sounds good to me! They also started to smell. They did so before, but mainly when i stuck my nose into the tent, and in the bygone weeks, it was, for my untrained nose, more of the typical "weed growing" smell we all know and love. But now - oh boy, now shes showing her olfactorial potential, and i swear to god i can make out banana (more like the peel not the fruit, but banana is banana), but my SO tells me im probably having a stroke. ill die on that hill though - i can smell banana. Theyre done stretching since a bit now, but in the timelapse (which ill add at the end of the week) you can see the flowers starting to swell up and see a difference daily. I said it a lot already, but i will say it again, they grow FAST, they grow beautifully and now they also get budmass going. I dont think they'll be ready to harvest in Week 8 (yet), just because i topped and couldve given more light, but if anyone tells me they harvested their BPP in 8 weeks, im inclined to believe them. My impatient a** is still in awe just how hard they are stepping on the gas. I measured their size for once, Plant A is 62 cm from soil to top, Plant B is 56 cm from soil to top. Plant B is also sitting on a weight as a slight elevation boost since this week. Bit late, but added the timelapse for week 7 for you to enjoy!

Hi Growmies. I hope you will all have a blessed Christmas with family and friends around you sharing love and good food. What a great week this has been. It seems they started the cycle so slowly at the beginning of the week and within a few days it had exploded with flowers a across all the plants. From base to tip on each branch of all the ladies they have sprung up with a bang. I was concerned as to how much longer they could go without flowering too. #1 Is leading the pack for production in general, closely followed by #3 but for Flower size and growth, then it has to be #2. She is a lot smaller than her sisters in girth and limbs but is not lacking in the cola dept at all. The plagron bloom products and planned effects are very evident now and i am looking forward to seeing how it helps with yield and quality now. As i have now reached 4 weeks flowering, it is time to add the product I have been most excited about trying , Green Sensation. I have known about thisnpriduct a long time but never had the opportunity to add it to my arsenal. It looks and smells great to me so I expect the girls will savour its goodness. Thanks for stopping by. Be lucky amd until next time , stay well.

Day 71: The smell is pretty strong at this point and the buds are becoming very sticky. I dropped the lights to around 28cms last week. I'll further lower them at the end of this week, as I expect harvest in week 13 or 14. Also watered her today. I'll leave the nutrients at the current level throughout the week and increase to 4ml/l each for the final week before flushing. Day 73: She's packing on a lot of weight recently. The top leaves on the main cola got really purple by now. At first I assumed that it was light burn, but now I think it has actually to do with its genetics. I also checked the trichomes today; around 90% of the trichomes are still clear.

Canna Aqua Vega A + B 40ml auf 20L // 4g Terra Aquatic pH-Powder

She doing so good after the lst I did earlier this week. Topped her towards the end of week 3.

the girl went to nature :) I will visit her once a week :).

Hello. This is the end of week 1 and the beginning of week 2 of flowering. Got the bamboo screen lowered into place and got the taller branches sticking through. All the plants got a big drink of flowering nutrient this week to help slow the stretch. The 3 plants I've got inside, will be put into flowering tonight. I've already changed the timer. I did some LST on the ones inside and took clippings for clones later. No sign of insects/pests yet. I know what to look for and do it daily. Everyone looks good and is growing well. I dug out another underground comic to show, but it has some weird stuff in it. It's called Weirdo. The copyright date is at the bottom of the letters page, fall of 1981. Ok. Have Fun. Chuck.

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