1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

🌫️🌫️🌫️ 🌬️🌫️The end🌫️ 🌫️🌫️🌫️

12th week begins, the last week! The plant has some purple leaves, it is a little suffering from the attack of pests outdoors and the weather which was not very favorable, these last few days were very cold, a little rainy, 6 degrees Celsius in Brazil is VERY cold but even so the plant produced beautiful buds.

Sanlight EVO 3-60 at 80% Day 106: looking good and watered again🌊. Watered with rain water and 1ml/l Powerzyme, 2 ml/l Hesi Boost, 1 ml/l Cal Mag, 1 ml/l Alg a mic, 1 ml/l root Juice, 0.5 ml/l Bloom Complex and 1 ml/l Green Sensation. EC at 1.8 and a pH of 6.4 . Day 108: looking good 🤗 watered with out supplements 👌🏻 Just rain water 👍🏻 Day 109: watered again🌊. Watered with rain water and 1ml/l Powerzyme, 2 ml/l Hesi Boost, 1 ml/l Cal Mag, 1 ml/l Alg a mic, 1 ml/l root Juice, 1.5 ml/l Bloom Complex and 1 ml/l Green Sensation. EC at 1.8 and a pH of 6.4 Day 111: watered with out supplements 👌🏻 Just rain water 👍🏻 Defoliated a little and Lollipoped her to her final Form.🤗

Very happy with how this lady has performed, amazing quality buds, very sticky and dense flower with a concrete smell that I love so much, which is that kind of fruity sweet flavor that this lady is able to produce, it's been a beautiful journey, I'm gonna enjoy a lot this flowers. Very recomended guys!

Day 55 plant is growing nice and stretching is good. Day 56 plant is great did a little defoliation no pics for d56 did video for that day. Day 57 refilled refill tank 920ppm ph'd 6.2 plant is nice and healthy. Day 58 nothing new plant is nice and green and healthy. Day 59 all is great. Day 60 plant doing great nothing new. Day 61 defoliation done on plant. Plant doing well after defoliation healthy and green.

Diventa giorno per giorno sempre più brillante e saporita 💪🤤😋🤤😋

30.04.2025 Day 58 Not much to report. Chemdawg still stretching. The other are fatten up and producing nice trichomes becoming visible to naked eye. Smell are strong. I can tell which one is tropicana cookies now base on the heavy citrus smell. So by process of elimination the other one has to be banana purple punch. I'm going to add final part solution today by mixing it with 5 liter of water and adding to reservoirs. All except Chemdawg.

Earthbox pics of Strawberry Truffle s1 | Perpetual grow 👽🐢👽🐢 harvest coming on new moon, flipping veg tent👍

I'm mitigate from this experience , the grow was not optimal why ? Maybe because my main thing is not to grow auto flower but femenised , the #3 was hermaphrodite plant ...

New week! Tips and help from last week, I had around 1500 ppm and I did flush my roots in water and change everything. Now is around 1000 ppm and dropping 150 ppm a day. Did read about water level in DWC and how to increase the grow with water. I had the water almost up to the root or the level of there the basket is. Now I have 1-2 inch (2-5 cm) below where the roots come out. This create air roots. I'm not sure if it's the air roots or the ppm but my flower is boosting. Can se buds grow!! Trimming so I can keep the same hight. Have any tips or rekomandation? Only have one question for next week and this is: it's looking a bit thigth between the buds and all of the leaf is cristal on it. Should I cut some more leaf? And what leaf should I trim? Is so thigth in there. Or will it grow fine?

nada nuevo que comentar, todo marcha bien hasta ahora.

Week 5 baby! What a smooth ride this has been - these ladies are absolutely flying through veg. Gave them some cooler water today and they're vibing with it 💚 Still keeping nutrients minimal, just 1-2x weekly when they ask for it. Less is more with these girls! 12.01.26 The runtz is really going for it, I had to adjust the light to the maximum. I realized that I wasn't sharing the size of this girl's Blue cheese F1 33cm not topped White Runtz auto 80cm not topped Pineapple Express F1 40 cm topped 16.1.26 The stretch is insane runtz has grown so big I had to give her some minor LST so she dose not go over the light, I did not want to train her at all and see what she has to offer.

Ciao a tutti, eccoci di nuovo, sono passati 8 giorni dall'ultimo aggiornamento. oggi siamo arrivati al giorno 40 di fioritura, i fiori sono raddoppiati di dimensioni e sono gia duri come delle pepite che si riempiono di resina giorno dopo giorno aromatizzando tutto il locale di agrumi. Negli scorsi giorni ho avuto un problema di sovrafertilizzazione, dopo una mia prima analisi penso sia un accumulo di nutrienti immobili contenuti nei concimi AN che ho aggiunto alla mia solita fertilizzazione dato che volevo azzardare e vedere se ci fossero dei miglioramenti. Era dall'ultimo post che le piante iniziavano a mostrare segni di una concimazione troppo sostenuta, nella vasca l'EC era 2.4 e a partire dal giorno 35 dopo ogni 24 ore avevo un aumento dell'EC di 0.3-0.4, cosa che regolavo aggiungendo acqua riportandolo ad un valore di 2.4 e aumentando il PH a 6 per vedere se le piante riuscissero a metabolizzare meglio i nutrienti in eccesso, pensando che le piante lo avessero sopportato dato che le conoscevo e sapevo che potevano mangiare tanto tanto. ERRORE ***** il giorno 39 sono intervenuto cambiando la vasca e mettendo solo acqua con PH=5.8 che cambierò giornalmente almeno fino al giorno 41. quando poi tornero ad aggiungere i concimi ma ad una dose inferiore. per il momento posso dire che l'aggiunta dei concimi AN non ha avuto gli effetti desiderati sulla dimensione dei fiori. Quantità e qualità della resina e dei suoi terpeni non posso notare alcuna differenza dato che attualmente le temperature sono relativamente basse e preservano bene tutti i terpeni motivo a cui attribuisco il loro grande profumo che come detto è inebrianti, adoro chiudere gli occhi e annusare le cime PURA AROMATERPIA :P Vi direi addirittura per il momento di aver esagerato con i prodotti e ho pure speso soldi inutilmente creandomi un problema di concimazione

One plant, one bud but happy asf

Zealix has sprouted, and Is looking acclimated not much going on this early. She looks like she is on her way. Thank you Terpyz Mutant Genetics, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.

9.1.25: Purple Lemonade is doing great and is looking beautiful to boot! 💜 I've been readjusting the LST. I just took all the pegs out and reshaped her. Flowers are coming soon! Watering with 1ltr of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.0 with the following nutrients;- ♡ 4ml Biobizz Bio-Grow ♡ 2ml Biobizz Bloom ♡ 2ml Biobizz Top Max ♡ 2ml Cal-Mag ♡ 2ml Ecothrive Flourish. I water with this every 3 days. Thanks for checking out my diary 🍃 ✌️

👨‍🚀🍀❄️ 👋C'est parti, la floraison commence ce 24/09. On dirait que mon topping se transforme en FIMing. La plus part des plantes ont des nœuds supérieurs supplémentaire qui pousse mais ils ont l'air faible. Je vais voir ce que ça donne 🤔. Je fais un peu de défoliation sur les nœuds inférieur.🤔 J'ai ajouté environ 25gr de poudre BioBloom par pot de 8L soit environ 3gr/L. J'arrose chaque pot avec environ 1.5L tout les 5 jours. J'ajoute du biohenhanceur 1 fois sur 2 Intensité de la FC3000: 90% Ventilation : 2 ventilateur oscillant ( ON 12/24H) + Extracteur pouces mars hydro power : 2/10 (24h/24h) Venez me voir sur Instagram ! 🤩 https://www.instagram.com/hou_stone420/

Got back from 2 weeks holiday and immediately lollipopped and defoliated all 4 plants heavly. Will wait a few days for them to recover from the battering I gave them before flipping to 12/12. This plant is at the back of the 4 in the timelapse.