This week went pretty well, I was out of town, but I was able to monitor these ladies by WYZE Cam, and I set up the feedings on a timer, but I only fed them twice per day while I was gone. They are still getting Cal-Mag, maxibloom, and PK booster. Still running on 19/5 light cycle, and I also did some defoliation when I got back in town just to improve some air flow. Overall I am very happy with these genetics from Sweet Seeds, and I believe I am only a couple weeks from harvest, but I will continue to monitor the trichomes with my optics. Thanks for checking me out and Blaze On!

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

~ FastBuds Strawberry Gorilla Autoflower Harvest Report ~ The Setup: • AC Infinity 4x4 tent •AC Infinity Cloudline T6 Exhaust Fan w/ Controller 67 •HLG 650R w/UVA Bar *** For some reason GD does NOT have a listing for the USA version of the 650R so I selected the closest match to it. •AirCube Active Oxygen Ebb/Flow 6 pot System •TrolMaster Hydro-X Controller for light •AutoPilot APC8200 co2 controller fed by a 50# tank •16" Hurricane oscillating fan and 8" floor fan •Tent cooling via filtered outside air delivered by AC Infinity Cloudline T6 fan •BlueLab instruments: PH Pen and Truncheon Nutrient Meter ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Here we go fam!...after 13 exciting weeks this run of three FastBuds Strawberry Gorilla Autoflowers has come to an end and, despite some hiccups along the way, all three of this phenomenal cultivar delivered the goods! This was my first attempt at 'hydroponic' growing and honestly I made some mistakes along the way. In hindsight, I ran too many feed cycles in a 24hr period which did not allow the medium and fabric pots dry out enough which led to a Fungus Gnat infestation which wasn't caught until late into flower. I also think I had the nutrient level set too high which may have kept the upper portion of the medium too wet. Other than those issues the only other hindrances were related to the actual ebb/flow system itself and beyond my immediate control such as plant spacing, solution temperature etc. I will say that when using this AirCube system I found out the hard way that you really need to have all of your plants starting at the same time, and preferably of the same strain unless you're using a trellis net to control the canopy height. Lastly, I will say that the GrowAce AirCube system was very well built, used quality materials, is expandable, and was very easy to setup and get running. Now to the plants... All three Strawberry Gorilla's were germinated together and sprouted within 24hrs of one another. I did very minimal training on them consisting of leaf tucking and gentle bending of branches, then some LST using horticulture wire starting in Week 1 of flower, which all three responded well to. All three pheno's began to flower right around Day 24 from seed and continued for another 10 weeks. I kept the tent temperatures during veg and early flower between 76-80℉ with the light on, and 70-72℉ with the light off and the RH at 60-70%. Once in flower, I gradually lowered the 'light on' temperature to 72-75℉ and 65℉ during the dark period. I also lowered the RH down to 35-40% during late flower. The entire run they were fed Plagron nutrients exclusively, using their Cocos 'A' and Cocos 'B' along with Green Sensation. Power Roots and Royal Rush. I had nothing but great results from this lineup from Plagron and highly recommend their entire product line! I ended up with three distinct phenotypes, two of which leaning more to the fruity/strawberry side. The third pheno was Glue all the way, with a pungent, chem-like aroma that will make your eyes water! The #1 and #2 phenotypes took on some beautiful coloration through late flower, expressing shades of purple, pinks and lavender. Both of them also had a very fruity/sweet aroma that grew extremely strong during late flower. The #3 phenotype struggled a little bit during the run and was affected the most by the Fungus Gnats (which I'm sure affected her yield) but incredibly ended up not only being the most aromatic of the bunch, but also the frostiest! The #3's flowers were a lime green with hints of pink and lavender on some, all were covered in large headed trichomes! Once the Strawberry Gorilla's reached Week 8 of flower I began regular checks of their trichomes and once they had reached a ratio of 90% milky/10% amber I placed all three plants in darkness for 72hrs in the 4x4, keeping the temperature at 64℉ and a RH of 35%. After three days in the dark I chopped and hung the plants whole in the 4x4 suspended by a wire I ran across the tent. I kept gentle air circulation going in the tent and maintained a temperature of 55-60℉ and monitored the RH, keeping it at 50% for the first 24hrs, then 60% for the remainder of the hanging time. The first plant was ready to trim in 9 days, with the other two 10 & 11 days respectively. All three were trimmed and their flowers placed in Mason jars with a hygrometer inside to begin the curing process. The beautiful 'sugar trim' was sifted on my 24"x24" four screen setup which I did outside on my porch on a calm day that was only 38-40℉. I got a tremendous return of 42g of some beautiful 90u sift that I can't wait to press into rosin! All in all, having cultivated this strain previously I can say that the results could have been a whole lot better, but... taking into consideration my level of expertise with hydroponic growing and the stresses that the Strawberry Gorilla's had to contend with, I'd say that it was a win and a testimony to how resilient and strong this strain from FastBuds is... It's no wonder that Strawberry Gorilla Auto is a trophy winner!🏆

I was very shocked on how fast it grewand how much it produced very great strain a must for you Indica lovers very strong I went to about 80% red hairs perfect smoke a lot of cannabinoids and a lot of leftover sugar leaves great for lovers of bubble hash

Started with some light feeding at the beginning of week 3. A third of the normal dose.

8 weeks in & Buds are growing in size, lovely purple colour and the fruity/berry smell is lovely 👌🏽

12/21/21 Start of week 3 all the plants have rebounded. Now labeled plants to follow each plant individually incase there's a phenotype I want to keep. Transplanted into 3 Gallon fabric pots, tent is now dedicated to those 4 Stone Cold Diesel other seedlings have been moved to there own tent.12/24/21 Cleaned floor of tent, nutrient fed plants with 250ml each of solution at 800ppm added water catchers. Also add NPK Raw Grow Microbes directly to the Coco Coir at 1/2 tsp per plant right around the stock.

She has been Chopped 20/07/24 Saturday Buds wet weight 937g Wet trim and larf 167g Over all 1104g That's over a kilo from a auto 😁👌💚 Very pleased!!! The buds have been wet trimmed and I have updated picture. I have now hung all buds in the dark dry tent for 7-10 days. I do not weigh the base what's the point. But here is are buds hanging, and the chopped base pic- with root zone 😍 Check back for cure and smoke review in a few weeks. So disappointed my other 3 terp tree.co seeds failed. I will try this breeder one last time and hope the photos come strong and germinate 🤞 Thanks to everyone who has followed my journey with this one, it's been fun. Keep growing and smoking you legends ✌️💚

Gracias al equipo de Zamnesia Seeds y MarshHydro, sin ellos esto no seria posible. 🍁 💐 La Biscotti es un cruce de la South Florida OG y la Gelato, y contiene un 22-25% de THC, suficiente para colocar tu cuerpo de la cabeza a los pies. El perfil genético de esta planta es 80% índica y 20% sativa, y produce un efecto que promueve la relajación y la creatividad al mismo tiempo. Podrás coger tus tijeras y empezar a cosecharla tras unas 8-9 semanas de floración en interior. Sus plantas son robustas y vigorosas, y crecen bien tanto en exterior como en interior. Al aire libre, son capaces de llegar a los 130-170cm, y producen unos 800g por planta de excelente hierba en octubre. La Biscotti es sin duda una de las variedades más deliciosas de Zamnesia ya que ofrece un aroma a galletas de vainilla y miel, con un clásico trasfondo de combustible 🌻 🚀 Consigue aquí tus semillas: https://www.zamnesia.es/9484-zamnesia-seeds-biscotti.html 💡 Mars Hydro TS 3000, como la lámpara de cultivo LED más grande de la serie TS, ofrece suficiente cobertura para un área de 4 × 4 pies con un precio asequible y rendimientos de calidad; a cambio, se puede aplicar tanto al cultivo doméstico como al cultivo comercial. Potencia - 450w Cobertura Vegetal – 5×5 pies Cobertura de flores - 4 × 4 pies La opción abrumadora para la mayoría de los productores que la aplican en tiendas de campaña. Consigue aqui tu lámpara: https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 📆 Semana 10: Última semana de esta maravilla de la naturaleza, ha quedado limpia y con unos cogollos duros y llenos de resina. Defoliacion para una mejor penetración de la luz en la parte baja de la planta. Una semana de lavado de raiz a base de agua de manantial y al secadero

Day 28 - Got other nutrients today. Will be using them for the rest of the grow. Plant keeps doing well in development, although the rust spots have progressed a little more. With the nutrients I'm hoping this will stop now (CaMg-Boost). Controlled also the EC and PH values of the run-off. EC Runoff @ 1.9 (little high), PH Runoff @ 6.25 (little low). The side nodes have grown a LOT. They were sturdy enough to where it seemed a good idea to do some more LST. Day 30 - Watered again, soil was dry even past my knuckle and could see that on the bottom it was dry as well (container is clear on the bottom). Only used a bit of Alga-C and Flower-C because it looks like there might be some nutrient burn on the tips of two leaves (see photo). Otherwise the flowers are continuing to develop well. Day 31 - Starting to see the beginnings of a clear color change 😍

Ich musste den Filter tauschen und etwas gegen den Geruch unternehmen. Die Sorte duftet ordentlich stark. Eine Mischung aus süße und sehr erdigen/ Kieferartigen Gerüchen. Dies ist mein 3. Durchlauf mit dieser Sorte Do Sweet Dos, sie ist manchmal etwas zickig aber bringt gut was an Harz und Geschmack mit.

8/24 Week 6 Flower Bea is the big girl of the tent, not by a lot but significant. Hero is not far behind and looking great. Reducing Grow nuets will Increase Bloom as we go. Want a lower EC with lots of runoff for tonight, been pretty high and its going up from here. Looking good what to say? Stretch has started but its very reasonable 8/25 They added an inch and some over night Nuets changed to all Bloom 8ml/gal A&B and Koolbloom 1ml/gal EC at 1500 see if we can keep this until ripening 8/26 Resuming twice a day feeds 8/27 Giving a dose of Kangaroots for their early flower root building this is the last of that. Defoliated lowers removing all under growth Tent is getting pretty full... maybe they are like goldfish... 8/28 Growing @ 1/2 - 1 inch per day still

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme 🤙. Sie bekommen 20 % Rabatt bei Zamnesia und der Code lautet ZAMMIGD2023.

So we are still letting her go as she keeps packing on weight and still a lot of clear trichome heads .. I trimmed the branch that broke off over a week ago and she looks fire, i will say there is not any amber on the branch that broke off.But that's just gonna make for a heady buzz .. i should have used more silica in hindsight, but I've also let this one go longer because I'd rather harvest a week late than a week early. That is a lesson I learned over the last few years... Not only that, but she's packing on weight everyday.. I'm thinking another week maybe.. I will say this the 8th i have curing right now.Looks and smells so good.. i think I'm going to start curing. In a jar and burping because these terp lock bags have been hit and miss with me... i'm no longer working because I got hurt at work and now have four bulging discs, two of which are pressed against the nerve that shoot down my right leg to where my knee is numbingly.. I'm thinking maybe grabbing a couple C vaults.. Anybody have any suggestions iddefinitely appreciate it.. And as always, God bless and happy, growing 🙏

💩Holy Crap Growmies We Are Back💩 Code Name FBT2307 Well growmies we are at 63 days in and everything is going much better , she's bounced back pretty good👍 really good actually 👌 👉 Shes getting frosty now , and i hope she fills out 👌if she does gonna have some buds on a stick 💪 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👈 Even with early major issues due to the soil/medium she's come a long way 👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈