It’s awesome it likes to be away from the light the one that was off to the side far out performed the one that was directly beneath. Both are nice though and have the same smell, taste and bud structure. After proper drying and curing it honestly can’t be beaten. Fantastic aroma and flavour and a really good strong stone. Calming, relaxing and meditative.😍😍😍😍😍😍

Green House Feeded one is enjoying life and keeps stretching. Advanced Nutrients one moved to left top corner and she seems to be doing better than last week. Light intensisty is at 90% in 50 cm distance.

Semana 5/ semana 1 de floración, sigo regando 1L a diario a cada una, están muy saludables. Aumente el Ventilador a nivel 2 y abrí la ventana para mantener la humedad del closet bajo 50. Todo ok!!

The buds are fat, making the branches lose strength, they have considerable resin. It smells like tropical mango with a stench in the background. It is a long-lasting sativa but I stopped providing magnesium and other nutrients before so as not to affect the flavor after harvesting, it could last a few more weeks, but I believe it will be harvested soon. If it gets weak, I will do some extraction. I stoeppd feeding at all now. For a pot of just 3.7 liters (1 gal), it is very well evolved and grown.

welcome to 📅Day 29 transition has started 4/12/2021. She has moved into transition into flower and she shows no sign that she is having any problems unlike her sister plant. I now have the AGLEX at full power and she is putting out 30,000 LUX 💡 That's it for todays update happy growing and as always keep your stick on the ice 🏒

Chopped on day 84 Dried for 9 days Yield is 98.3 grams of good nugs(3.51 oz)

Blütewoche 5

Day 24 , showed sex day 21, the plant has doubled in size over night and the stem is already twice as thick as the four in soil. Water change tomorrow and you ppm to 600

29.06. Dos Si Dos 33# 1# Day 65# Dos Si Dos 33# 2# Day 65# And what can be said about the champion... these two plants felt the least this, I think this strain would survive a nuclear war lol 29.06. The plants have finally started growing again, some have almost completely recovered, some are still recovering, and some are in critical condition. The plants stopped growing for almost a week, maybe even that long, during those days they literally made no progress, the situation only worsened to the extent that I was sure that all but one plant would wither... There were storms yesterday and the day before yesterday, and that's why I'm late with the update because I couldn't take a picture of them, the gusts of wind were really strong. Watering is now more frequent and abundant, now I water them every 3rd or 4th day, everything depends on the temperature on those days, whether there is wind, how much moisture there is, etc. The last time they were watered was before the storm and they are already thirsty today as you can see in the pictures, it will be a day and I will water them in the morning. Today I removed their leaves again and now I can freely say that they have twice as few leaves as they should, so when it's time for defoliation, I probably won't do it at all, or at least not a lot. The day before yesterday it was the end of the ninth week for the plants, now they are already in the tenth, but in order not to miss the ninth week, I will write it in the ninth and I will write the next update 2 days earlier, more precisely, on time. The day before yesterday it also rained, there was a downpour for about 40 minutes, but the spray that I sprayed on the plants failed to absorb, it simply stuck to the leaf, it is greasy, you can see that in the pictures, the leaves are shining. I think the biggest problem was caused by the fact that it sticks to the leaf and when the sun is strong, the leaf simply burns. In general, do not use the product from the last picture, it can easily kill the plants. Most of the plants have almost recovered and are getting better, however, the rain can't stop that shit and I also tried to wash it, but it's not worth it, so there is a high probability that the problem will return when the temperatures rise again and the UV is almost extreme and that could be a problem... the temperatures have normalized again to 30 during the day, but in 4-5 days they are announcing again around 36-7.. I will copy the problem that befell the plants from the previous two diaries of other strains from a few days ago in order not to explain everything again, so whoever is interested should read it in more detail. 25.06. the condition is medium sad... the plants have not progressed at all, why? Well, because I'm a moron who doesn't think... Basically, what happened.. I sprayed the plants with an organic preparation against thrips and similar pests and if there was no need for it because this is growing outside and absolutely these little things can't do anything for them except something miserable to slow down their growth, but nothing terrible... and now, I didn't even want it to slow them down miserably, so I ordered a product called "SMC Spidermite Control" I sprayed the plants overnight, the next day when I came to the site, I had something to see... which is the worst I sprayed all the plants, instead of checking on one and only then spraying the others...autos I wanted to spray all the same, luckily I only sprayed 5 of them, as if God himself told me "wait until tomorrow to see how the plants will react" and continue...I come to the site and I have something to see...all the plants, but all, some more, some less, but the leaves were massacred blue, black, purple, there were all colors, everything was there, but the least healthy leaves, as if I had sprayed them with the biggest poison, I think that even in that case they would have passed better... was it the product itself or the sun that was strong during the day (I sprayed them at night and the nights were around 18 C in the coldest part of the night, so they had time to dry, it's not that they couldn't dry, but it all stuck to sheets, it was all shining, I think they could see how bright it was from the plane, but literally... I removed almost 50% of the leaf mass from some plants, from some smaller ones... the tips that were supposed to grow and be ready for a new topping just started, so they had stopped completely for a couple of days literally... the situation is now as you can see in the pictures, there are a few leaves that appeared after spraying with that product, and it is still appearing, but very little, just, just, and this there was no point in leaving the leaves that I plucked because they were completely destroyed, I have never seen them in my life... The site I bought it on said that the preparation was organic and completely safe, nowhere did it say that it can literally kill the plants, not even on the preparation itself... I am very sad about this, I have been spraying them with clean water every morning before sunrise since it appeared and the tops have slowly started to grow, this crap is appearing less and less, and I have no more leaves where should I remove it, I would just kill the plants... I hope they will recover (except for one plant that is in a critical condition and the automatics that were sprayed are also in a very critical condition, they are young and will hardly survive this) but if not, I have another white runtz that is not in the diary, it is a little more than 3 weeks old, so I will transplant it into 200 liters of soil, so at least something will come out... I feel very sorry for the plants, I already have enough money invested, and this is also my therapy, cultivation heals me… I'm very angry with the people who sold it to me, and they didn't warn me about such a thing, if it's not written on the bottle itself and on the website, and I've been buying from them for years and they know what I'm growing... the product is not cheap, I paid money for something that will kill my plants, fuck... I mean, fuck money, I feel sorry for the plants, but you understand what I'm saying... I'm also angry at those who put the product on the market in the first place, and I would say all kinds of things I did it, but it's better to keep quiet... and mostly I'm angry with myself because I believed what it says and didn't check the product, like the biggest amateur... But what's here is now, let's move on... Today is the 57th day of the plant's life, yesterday was the end of the eighth week. Watering is now more frequent, every 3-4 days, it depends, the heat is already high, today it was at least 40 C in the shade, the forecast says 35. Since the last update, the plants were fed once and for the first time after transplanting, this morning most of them were fed for the second time, the next watering or two will be with clean water. Stay High and Keep Growing!!! Growers, please avoid this crap, the product is called " SMC Spidermite Control" This crap seems to have been imported from Ukraine,from chernobyl directly, not from UK lol Only Positive Vibes Stay High and Keep Growing!!!

By now I would have expected to have already collected. The plant continues to develop the flowers in an anomalous way, in fact they do not close, and they are growing 'in dots', along the 'tentacles' of the flower. I think the cause is light, mainly.

Hello. This is the end of week 7 and the beginning of week 8 of veg. Man I started 16 regular seed to find a good male for some breeding this summer... But, I got so far... 10 females and 4 males and 2 still undecided. I was hoping for about 8 males so I could have a good choice. This happened last year too. Couldn't find a good male, so... I couldn't make any new homemade seeds. I'll check over these males in a few more weeks, to see if any of these males will be good for breeding this year. Bought a new 10x10 foot tent The other tent had a lot repairs to do. I should have cut a couple of inches off the frame so it would have been easier to do up. Probably causing some of the repairs. So I took the chop saw and cut a couple of inches off the front of the frame before I put the new tent skin on. I was tired of sewing up of zipper seams, because the sun had sun rotted the thread. And some of the reflective foil was pulling away from the canvas. Took about 4 hours to get the stuff out and the new tent on the old frame, I left the old 1 inch metal frame up. They sent a 3/4 inch metal frame, but the one that was already up was much stronger, so I keep it. What to do with the new frame??? I hope to get these plant out to the greenhouse at the end of the March and start flowering at the end of May. I can do that with my tent. And harvest in the beginning of Aug, OK Be Great. Chuck.

Day 58, 7th of November 2020: The 6th day since the lamp switched to be 12/12... I raised up the nutrition intake as it can be seen above only the BioBizz family 2ml/l and removed some LST because the plant remains in shape or just set a bit but nothing significant.... Amazing....strech is on the way..... 😅 Nice fresh smell lovely, I love the structure. She does not strech that much so far but she is like a little more bushire a lotnof leaves and smaller ones... she looks different in "person" you would see more differences compare to other ones from the same breeder in this group ;) Nothing really to report there is crazy 2-3 weeks from now ;) ;)

For most crops, a slightly acidic soil pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal because it optimizes nutrient availability. When soil pH rises above 7.0 (alkaline), the concentration of hydrogen ions H+ drops significantly, and they are replaced by calcium, magnesium, or sodium ions on the clay colloid exchange sites. To naturally lower alkaline soil pH, you can add organic matter (carbon-rich materials), which produces weak organic acids as it decomposes. Maintaining this slightly acidic range stimulates a highly active, diverse microbial community; these microbes decompose organic matter and release carbon dioxide CO2, which plants absorb through their roots and leaves to boost photosynthesis and sugar production. Furthermore, the added organic carbon acts like a sponge, drastically improving the soil's water-holding capacity. While soil biological activity does involve cellular electron transport, electrical conductivity (EC) in soil is actually a measure of dissolved mineral salts, not a voltage carried by individual microbes. Soil microorganisms secrete organic acids and chelate metallic and non-metallic minerals, transforming locked-up inorganic compounds into bioavailable organic complexes. Unlike harsh synthetic fertilizers that can dehydrate soil life in high concentrations, these naturally chelated nutrients safely nourish the plant, creating a thriving, self-sustaining ecosystem where plants can efficiently synthesize their own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff.

08.10.12 Day73 Day25 since 12/12 Her buds are beginning to fatten up. Two days ago I added water to reservoirs as she needed topping up. She drank 10 liter in about 5 and half days. Today I did a fresh reservoir change out and added 16 liters of water. We will see how long it last this time. I think in my next grow of photoperiod plant I will use trellis net as I it is becoming a pain to constantly tie down branches with training wire.

Today 7/30/19, day 57 and the start of week 9. I'm still continuing to alternate between days with my pesticide treatment (especially after finding that bug living on one of hulkberries fan leaf) and thrive alive green daily foliage spray as a prophylactic solution against any possible pests or mold going into these last few dog days of veg. I will flush them with distilled ph'd water for two days this weekend in preparation for flower. Then I'll start them on some "flower fuel" bloom booster on top of my secret for success flower recipe at 1/4 of the recommended strength. Outside of that still no adverse issue to report for the end of the 8th week. After my last trim, they both have responded very nicely, I was kind of worried about fat banana stalled growth. But one thing I noticed when I topped her at the 6th node, yes the main stem stopped growing but it developed many bud sites up and down every stem. Whereas hulkberry was topped at the 8th node, she has mainly focused on developing long stems and only 2 or 3 bud sites along her stems. Even though hulkberry in structure, is much bigger than fat banana and has a way bigger root system. Fat banana is bushier and has developed way more bud sites than hulkberry. I can't tell which strain will yield the most at this point only time will tell! Also, a big shout out to "J"@RQS, thank you for the excellent customer service. Another reason why Royal Queen Seeds is top 3 in breeding!!

All going really strong. Auto Mazar measures at 2cm Auto Daiquiri Lime is 3cm and Auto Ultimate is 4cm. Gave them all 100ml of water mixed with Orca yesterday and nothing needed today!!!

Die Pflanze gedeiht. Ich bin überrascht, wie viele Blüten sie produziert hat. Die Luftfeuchtigkeit ist morgens sehr hoch aber bislang sehe ich keine Fäulnisanzeichen. Wahrscheinlich liegen wir noch etwas weg vom Taupunkt. Wasser + Ackerschachtelhalm.

Still flushing this week, I plan on chopping this Friday! As always, the girls on GrowWithJane: 1) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-yellow-342ve 2) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-green-ubh4l 3) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-blue-0wj77 4) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-white-c6ovz 5) https://growithjane.com/growlog/fb420-original-gorilla-zkittles-pink-50csd