It is a vigorous plant with very uniform branching, high resinous and high yield, if you grow from seed there are a few different phenos that I got, equally as good

Feb 22 Really starting to thicken up! The soil underneath is still plenty moist even though the fan is blowing on it 24 hours a day. The roots will grow more quickly as the water dries up and the roots continue their search for more.

lovely OG to grow, touched my plants with oil on my fingers dumb move hey see video. This is 1 of the easiest strains I have ever grown in 0ver 30 years, topped once no lst and thrive at a ph of 6.7 they use everything around 5litres in 4 days the pots are light and dry but not bone dry.

Amazing!!!!! a wonderful girl, she managed to keep herself so beautiful and strong :) she was not visited very often :) the house has a wonderful smell of tropical fruits :) Thanks to Dutch Passion for the opportunity :)

Added the scrog net and defoliated a bit to help spread out the canopy. They are looking healthy and happy and ready for the flip! That deep-topping really was a great way of creating a very even and clean canopy (you'll see that in the next week's update)

here already a little more grown and applying the techniques lst apical pizzicato experimenting, Seeing how the techniques are manifested, some were done poorly, so their results were somewhat strange or curious, if they did, you judge, errors such as not cutting the apical trying to do the pruning, poe error from fmi and only cut the tiny growing leaves that's why you will see those rare leaves

09/13/2018 Nutes up to 2/3strength, going up to full at next reservoir change. She is putting on nice growth, had to raise light due to leaf burn, but only one leave affected, I think I will flip to flowering next week. She has 9fingered leaves but in veg she's very Indica like, hopping she has more sativa like flower stretch.🙏 Topped and lite defoliation.

SUMMARY: I flushed the NL with tap water straight from the hose. I’ve heard you’re supposed to flush with 3x the container volume, however that would be around 57 litres for a 5 gallon pot which seems absurd. I didn’t record the amount but I took my time and flushed with at least 30 litres. I will now continue to flush until harvest on 10th April by which point she should have faded nicely and used up any residual nutes. I read that the each time you water/irrigate you draw oxygen into the root zone and this promotes growth and in turn helps to increase yield and so I will endeavor to water her twice per day now until harvest. DAY 86 ----------- Sunday 28th March I flushed the NL with tap water straight from the hose. I’ve heard you’re supposed to flush with 3x the container volume, however that would be around 57 litres for a 5 gallon pot which seems absurd. I didn’t record the amount but I took my time and flushed with at least 30 litres.

-5/21//23 Start of Week --Week 9/Flower 3 -5/21/23 (Day 64/Flower 15) --Observations: still clustered, hard to see under the shade leaves --Changes: started giving nutrients in waterings, added molasses to watering (today only) --Comments: don't really know what it looks like under the canopy because of how clustered everything is. started giving nutrients in watering along with spraying twice daily, will stop spraying at the end of flower week 4. doing heavy defoliation at the end of this week, excited to see what it looks like under the canopy. -5/27/23 (Day 70/Flower 21) --Observations: large quantity of bud nodes revealed by defoliation --Changes: heavy defoliation, repositioned some guiders --Comments: this experimental grow style is doing far better than I expected. heavy defoliation revealed a sea of pre-flower beneath the canopy, far exceeding my expectations of what could not be seen before. moved some of the guiders to help with spacing of smaller branches so that everything get good lighting. sent is still mild and hard to distinguish from the lemon basil, should get stronger within the next few weeks. -5/27/23 End of Week

12/1: She's scheduled for execution on Tuesday (maybe Wednesday) Hooray!😋 The bottom part of the closet seems empty with only 9 plants in there.. 😟 I cut the harvested plants up and put them into drying baskets in the top of my closet with a small oscillating fan on. I've got the temperature fluctuating between 68f and 75f and the RH is staying between 48% and 52%. To do that, I had to take down the small light in the top of the closet to fit the drying baskets up there. So, I moved the 3 shorter plants still up there, including the Stardawg, down to the bottom and put them on top of buckets. Now the bottom of the closet looks full again!😃 I'm anxious to finish up this grow so I can get busy growing the Fastbuds Fast Flowering Photo Testers!!! When I harvest the next 5, I'll flush the remaining plants really well and that will be all the flushing they'll get..I'll let them dry back out for a few days and harvest them. I've got to make some minor improvements to the garden (adding UV, blue and red/far red booster panels and intake fans) That should put me on track to start germinating them by mid-December if all goes well.

Hi friends, So I guess I was being really impatient because the bigger girls have begun springing out trichomes!! I can see them deep within the bud sites and are slowly stretching out on sugar leaves. I've noticed that this plant doesn't produce too many trichomes on the bigger leaves so don't let that fool you if you come across that. My girls look frosty on the actual bud sites. Tried to get good pics, will try post more tonight. Other than that, the fast yellowing from previous issues have halted and yellowing seems to be taking a natural course from here. Leaves are dying off but seems that's just the plant doing its thing and getting rid of what it doesnt need. So excited the trichomes came through. Hopefully a few more weeks from here or so. Stay safe!

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

19.04. Day 83 Day 43 and things remain steady. The two overfed plants are still on pH-adjusted water only. The one in the front is starting to show signs of recovery – looks like the flush is working. The one in the back right, though, is pretty far gone – necrosis has set in deep. At this point, it’s just about damage control. No real comeback expected, but I’ll keep it going. All the other girls are thriving. Still getting 2–2.5 liters of nutrients every two days. Buds are swelling up nicely – and finally, the frost is starting to settle in. Winter is coming! ******************************************* 10L RO Water // ph 6,2 // 1ml/L Regulator // 2ml/L CalMag // 10ml Green Sensation // ph- // every second day *******************************************

🌳.

Here we are :) the are finished

Week 31/3 - 6/4

I've turned the light up to 35000 lux. Up'd the bloom to 1.5ml/l. There still stretching and could do with more room but there doing well 😎

Info : Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Harvest day 67. Hey guys :-) . Finally the time has come the lady has been harvested :-). In the last week the water was freshly mixed with Canna Flush and an Ec of 0.4 in order to completely use up the nutrients in the last few days 👍. You can see it on the beautiful autumn yellow leaves :-). Before harvesting, the lights were turned off completely for 48 hours. After everything was neatly trimmed by hand, the buds were put into the drying tent, where they are allowed to dry for the first 8-12 days at a humidity of 62% before they ferment with 62% boveda packs in jars. After another 3-4 weeks in the glasses, the 58% boveda packs come in for the final touch :-). Of course, the final update comes from the fermented end product 👍. Until then, I wish you all a lot of fun and stay healthy 🙏🏻 You can buy this Strain at www.Zamnesia.com Type: Runtz ☝️🏼 Genetics: Zkittlez X Gelato 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow LED CXB3590 COB 55 W 1 x Sanlight S2W 62 W 💡 Flower lamp : 2 x Todogrow LED CXB3590 COB 55 W 1 x Sanlight S2W 62 W 💡 ☝️ Grow Aero System : Growtool 0.8 ☝️ Fertilizer: Canna Aqua Vega A + B , Canna Aqua Flores A + B , Rizotonic, Cannazym, CANNA Boost, Pk 13/14, Canna Cal / Mag, Canna Ph - Grow, Canna Ph-Bloom ☝️🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EG. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with ph- to 5.6 - 6.4 💦 💧