03/06/2022 #6 is (2 others 1 week behind) 43 days today hopefully go to 63-70 days. Seed are looking good on #6 should be good amount to play with.

Week 6 of flower! Coming into the final stretch and thankfully this catches me up to the present with this journal. All the girl's are really getting thirsty faster and I've upped their daily to 1gl each with half doses of CalMag+ and PH'd to 6.3. I'll be changing PH to 6.5 for the last 3 weeks of flower to help with their autuming off. The WW is getting so resinous it's ridiculous. Keeping nighttime temps @ 60F and mid 70's during the day with 4 hours of enhanced UV via the HLG UV bar. Supposed to help with tricome and terpene production....we'll see!

Hola familia,de nuevo, no hay ningún cambio en cuanto a lo climático, temperaturas de 26 maximas y 20 de mínimas y humedad 45% mínimas k asomas de 70%. Eso si crecer van creciendo a buen ritmo , las más lentas son las power plant xl. Aún así se ven bien sanas todas, pronto las trasplantaremos.

So these ladies are in full swing of flower and the stretch I have tucked any branches I can under my netting too spread out the plants and too fill the tents canapy they are growing about 1 or 2 cm every other day at the moment so tucking under is the order of the week Really into the massive stretch now I am having too move the climate control probe and thermostat every day now and these girls will soon cover the WiFi camera too , probably growing around 2 or 3 cm per 24 hours at this stage , " day 4 of week 5 " The tent is filling up nicely but the fbt7 is a clear winner so far , be is my cock up of snapping the main stem and fixing it ? The ftb7 is double the size of all the other 3 plants and is a very nice little bush , the smoothie has been very consistently healthy and vigorous and is around 22cm now and is one I did not lst , the BlackBerry has finally woken up and is now the same height as the others another plant I didn't lst , the c1 started very vigorously and was strong , them week 3 started too show signs of very early flower , she is now is fully fledged flower at week 5 and looking fantastic , and I was lucky enough too get all the side branches out and bend over the main cola too the netting and has made up for in lst what it lacked in size due too the early flowering ,

Day 67 plant is stretching and very healthy. Branches are thick and strong. Day 68 nothing to report all good. Video for d68 didn't take pics. Day 69 refilled refill tank 920ppm ph'd 6.2 plant is so healthy and getting big. Day 70 plant is nice and green and healthy nothing new. Day 71 all is good. Day 72 plant will get defolited tomorrow nothing new today. Day 73 defolited plant seems to be doing great after defoliation looking and healthy and happy.

Got my first round of Lst done BE CAREFUL! I accidentally topped one of my plants. These girls grow stiff and resist the training.

This week ill try to switch over to an English diary because the translation is absolutely crap and i might learn a thing or two about the English terms in growing, also because the American and Canadian researchers extended the growing knowlegde in an absolute insane tempo and i would probably get most of my information from them. I don't have a spelling-check on this pc, therefore i apologize in advance ;). I uploaded some photo's with crappy lighting (Next grow ill switch day-night rythm and should give me better opportunities for photo's, but we'll get to that in the future) but also i short video of some notes which i will elaborate below: Last week on saturday i turned off the carbon vent because i could not get the humidity level right and i was still waiting for my humidifier. I placed a big fan inside the tent for air circulation and besides that i installed a small vent-filling fan in in front for clean-airflow. Last weekend i closely watched what the humidity and temperature did and started playing with the setup. All the changes i made in the tent last week are: 06-02: - Shut down carbon vent - Added rotation fan inside - Added small front-fan for clean airflow 07-02: - Added humidifier (setting 55%) - Dropped HPS 600W about 15 cm's to 110 cm height 08-02: - Humidifier setting 60% 09-02: - Dropped HPS 600W about 20 cm's to 90 cm's height 10-02: - Front fan on 2 instead of 1 11-02: - No changes because all is stable 12-02: - Placed humidifier at the back instead of the side of plants - Dropped HPS 600W 15 cm's again to 75 cm's height - Moved the inside fan more to the top-back of the tent (more facing downwards) - Opened up a vent-hole in the top of the tent for a little warmth release From the moment i turned off my carbon vent last week the sprouts started flourishing, especially when i added the humidifier. All the changes, noting, and looking at them how they pose, reading blogs and learning have brought me to the point that i think i stabelized it. Allthough i am going to turn on the carbon vent sooner or later (i might do this tomorrow) i need to pay attention again because i'm predicting it will drain the humidifier in a higher speed and that means i have to refill approx. 15 liters in 2 days? The tank is 5.5 liter and at the moment i refill it every evening, so thats already 11 liters in 2 days. I'm really expecting it to increase significantly i ill keep my notebook ready. :p I'm also a bit worries it will be so warm in my tent because the outside temperature is pretty cold, and that might also be the reason the temperature doesen't go above 28 degrees anymore. Okay enough about the tent setup changes. Lets talk plants. After the transplant last week to their end-pot these auto's started to grow immediately and i think they did really well this week. Since the humidifier got added to the tent, every morning the plants praise their "Hallelujah" pose which is really pleasing to watch... **Last weeks's first time watering in the big pots:** 06-02 around 09.00: - 750ml around the side - 750ml around the middle area - 750ml with nutrients spreaded around the pots All is equally divided through 4 plants. This week's watering and nutrients: 08-02 around 16.00: - 750 ml around the pot - 750 ml with nutrients 11-02 around 10.00: - 500ml around - 500ml around - 500ml with nutrients 12-02: - Sprayed Vita Race first time 4ml in 750 ml and sprayed about 15% of it on the leaves, no drups, mostly nebula. The vita race really made the leaves shine, also within 1,5 hours all moist was took in or evaporated, Today probably again around 1600 ill water them again but ill hold the next vita race for tomorrow or something. as long as the plants shine the same i don't know if it's neccasary? Okay, last but not least.... This week on wednesday i kinda mis-read some shit on internet and topped 3 of my 4 plants. I think it went okay, because they don't seem to stressed about it. They still flourish and hallelujah on! Still i'm pretty worried because i made the cut right next to the nodes which isen't the best thing (learning phase :p)...... The reason i topped 3 outta 4 because i wanted to see if i diden't stress the smallest one, he would out-grow the others, but that does absolutely not seem to be the case. Also i think it's a great way to learn by not stressing one plant to see the differences, i want this first grow not to be about end results but more about learning and developing my own personal experience and point of view. Oh PS, i also drilled all the holes to prepare for LST, but i think they were kinda to small on 10-02 when i drilled it. I'm going to watch the recovery from the topped plants closely coming week and maybe start with LST. Stay tuned while this noob messes around with Auto Critical Orange Punch of Dutch Passion.

8/19 Rained again last night. No damage but medium is drenched. The 9lb kush I've been struggling with seems to be improving. I spent a lot of time on her yesterday and at least an hour this morning defoliating and pruning her. New growth and flowers look promising. I'm cautiously optimistic. I defoliated what needed it. I needcto qpplyvorganocide again. I can see random signs of septoria leaf spot. I really have been off my fame lately. I'm back on it now. This week the garden will be rearranged and I'll pull that big GDP back and better support the blueberry for flower. That NYCSA is a beast. It's resilient as all hell and just continues getting bigger and fuller. Despite pr9blems in the garden this girl seems absolutely fine. At least I don't have that defeated feeling anymore. I've got flowers on a few different plants. I'll try to get a couple pictures. I may take rapacaps advice and add a cheap plastic roof for later flower. I'm not sure if the explosive flower growth is due to the liquid kool bloom but I think I'm going to switch back to tiger bloom as it works better with the other nutes. I'll jeep this updated but I've got work to do. 8/20 Well it Rained again last night. This is getting discouraging. Now my other 9lb kush has the bottom branch all droopy like there's a borer or something. Realistically with the temp swings and the weather I think it's a firm of root rot or pythiym damage which isn't good. I posted pictures of the stalks and would be grateful if anyone has any advice. I'm go8ng back down to look again for a borer hole but i didn't see one. What it looks like to me is that the petroleum jelly I put on the stalks (to battle ear wigs) seems to keep them moist or something inviting mold or fungus. I'm kind of at a loss. I don't really know where to go from here. I don't know if I should just replant the severely damaged plant away from the rest of the grow, bag it and get rid of it or leave it be and hope for the best. I certainly don't want anything spreading. I'm getting tigerbloom today as my plants still need to eat and I'm nervous about the liquid kool bloom. It's probably fine but still. I'll update after I put in more work and research more today. Any advice helps. UPDATE: No borer holes. The stalk looks fucking horrible. It's supposed to rain today. I'm going to give it one more day then I'll amputate that branch and get rid of the other plant if I don't see an improvement. Perhaps I'll plant it in the ground. Don't really know what to do. Family bar b que today so my options are limited. 8/21 FED TWO GALLONS TO THE GARDEN. ONLY USED .5TSP/GAL OF LIQUID KOOL BLOOM. Did not feed dieing plant. Back to super hot weather 80° at 9am. Did a lot of research last night. I also went to several commercial growers and asked advice. What I came up with was a fusarium infection of pythiym infection (Crown rot). I looked at all my stalks and they all have bark and are darker where I applied the petroleum jelly. I'm also NEVER using DE again. It fucking ridiculous amounts of water. Everyone swears by it bit it's not going in my garden again. Since use I can just watch water sit right on the GD soil. I tried to get some examples of what I'm talking about with the stems. I amputated that lowest bottom branch I trained (which was huge). I didn't have time to dispose of the other plant before my wife's doctor's appointment. I'll update when I go back over. I'm sure this won't help and may hurt but I used Bee Safe 3 in 1 on the wound and around the stalks of the plants I saw discoloration on. I didn't touch the NYCSA even though I see some discoloration. I may just be seeing things. That plant I'd super healthy and I don't want to risk losing it. It doesn't seem to have the stem rot like the others. At least I'm not the only one having problems. I hears some pretty bad stories. Still. I'm heart broken. I'll keep this updated after I go back over. FUCK. I MAY just go back to indoor. UPDATE: Got back from the appointment and the rest of the plant was all droopy just like the other 9lb kush (and the branch amputated). I wondered about that because other branches looked worse. I got the totally dead 9lb kush out and found some root rot. AFTER wheeling the bag out I found earwigs and other insects where the bag had been. Awesome. I used h202 to try to wipe down anything that looked Fingal in the stem. It sucks because it seems like that liquid kool bloom pushed them over the edge into flower. Cotton balls where there was nothing. So that's both my 9lb kush plants and the largest plant of the year the GDP that have all bit the dust. If you grow cannabis you know how I'm feeling. I KEEP TRY8NGVTO UPLOAD THE MINUTE VIDEO I TOOK BUT I CLICK ON SOMETHING ELSE AND IT DISAPPEARS. WIFI SLOW. HAVE TO WAIT FOR 5G 8/22 What do I say? Fusarium? Pythium? Stem rot? I'm going to have to get a tent to do some indoor to get the medicine I need for me and my wife. I took the last 9lb kush out and disposed of it. Well it's still in the bag. I'm hoping maybe it might come out of it (beyond hope and far away from the others (but I'm going to toss it today). This blows so hard. Flowers are just starting to develop. I like the liquid kool bloom. It seems to make flowers explode when there was none before. At least on the plants I have left. Actually even the dieing ones started flowering. I'm really concerned considering that one plant (at least) has septoria and every plant has that petroleum jelly on it. Cautio to people that use that. It seems thats where the rot started or is. In spots I spread the petroleum jelly. Anyway my NYCSA has the smallest amount of "funky looking stuff on the stem" so I'm hoping it will make it. Cotton balls starting to appear. If I lose the whole fucking crop I'm gonna go ape shit. UPDATE: Spoke with a few others and did more research. I removed my braces on the bottom of all the plants. It looks like the pjelly and the brace allowed for some type of contaminate. Other growers think I'm being too bleak. They think things will turn out okay. They are more knowledgeable about cannabis than me but I'm with these particular plants everyday. They're probably right and my anxiety is just getting g to me. It's scary seeing a healthy plant completely die in such a short time. After removing the other 9lb kush I could easily see extreme rootbound roots still too the size of the 1 gallon they came in. The bag was PACKED FULL of tight roots so they definitely made it down. The plant however just fell over when I pushed it. I had roughed it up a big before. Anyway I'm praying to the cannabis gods to not take what I have left. 8/23 Fucking pouring again. This sucks. I've gotten loads of advice and made another friend on here. I forgot my phone so I couldn't take pictures this morning. My spirits are up a little seeing that others are at least attempting to help. I'm headed to the grow shop after a night of research to grab supplies to battle this. I'll update later. EDIT: I picked up plant doctor at the grow shop. It was 50% off and I couldn't find anything with trichodermia. However, I've heard good things about this plant doctor. It's systemic and can be used as a root drench and a foliar spray. BIGGEST selling point for me is that it SPECIFICALLY lists fusarium, grey mold. Pythiym crown rot, black mold and all kinds of other shit. The thing that sucks is it's raining and it's not supposed to stop for a few days. That's going to make application more difficult. Oh well. I think I may do a root drench on the one plant that has a wilted bottom branch. I'll keep this updated. Thank you everyone who reached out. Especially growing grannies and my commercial buddy who is always here for me. However he has no experience with this so I'm kinda on my own here. EDIT: I couldn't find trichodermia and I don't have time to wait around and order. I found plant doctor which literally lists it treats all the possibly pathogens my issue could be. Even has a section for medical Marijuana. I did a root drench on the plant up front in the middle AND I did a foliar spray. Might as well get the septoria too. It's systemic but it gets in faster through the leaves I guess. It started sprinkling and I want to test this stuff out before I go ham with it. I did give some to the to other plants bit left my best AND THE TWO SMALLER ONES alone for now. I'm not seeing those issues on the NYCSA and I don't want to risk damaging it. I chose tge root drench as it's raining and the instructions for fusarium WAS a root drench. Thank you all for your help. I will close out tge question once I know it's figured out. Wish me luck. DID A SHORT VIDEO BUT WIFI IS SUPER SLOW SO I NEED TO WAIT TO UPLOAD IT. Went back over. Finished foliar spraying the other two and left the NYCSA and two Littles alone. Hopefully this works. I did I short video. Who knows if it uploads. UPDATE: Went back over and finished foliar spraying. Took a bunch of pictures and did a video but it didn't upload. I'm hoping this will do it. Plants actually look good. And they're flowering nicely! It's too bad I had to do a foliar bug this us supposed to combat PM and septoria as well. 8/24 It Rained last night but hasn't Rained today yet. It's supposed to and uts overcast. I'm really considering putting a roof on my grow (like rapacap suggested) for flower to decrease mold chances. Plants looked happy. I saw no negative effects from the Plant Doctor. I even sprayed a branch of the NYCSA and the stem and a little around tge roots. I finally feel like I can take a breath. I've been working so hard and worrying about losing g everything. I may have been able to save that 9lbkush but I don't think bit was worth taking the chance. The sun is peaking out now. My buddy at the grow shop called and set a side general hydroponics armor si 0-0-4 silica supplement cause it was 90% off. I pad like a buck sixty lol. I'll incorporate that next feed or water. Whatever comes first but it will be good to get it in the regimen. I was worried plant doctor might hurt but the girls seemed to kike it and I went ham on the worst plant. I mixed according to medical Marijuana guidelines on the label (Theres another label on the internet, it's not on this one, it's at the very bottom and just recommdations from commercial growers. I hope this stuff works. Things look better already though. That liquid kool bloom is the bees knees. That's making flowers pop up like crazy! I think I'll stick with it. I was going to use beastie bloom and cha ching later on (and still might) but I hate the lockout bullshit. I've done a bunch of videos but most don't get uploaded as i forget to upload when I leave and wifi is slow here. Anyway at least I've got a few good ones left and pleating the words of my commercial poll buddy, "barring anything catastrophic you should be fine. I know your anxiety gets the better of you sometimes." Couldn't be a truer statement. I'm still getting a tent and doing indoor though. I'm going to need to. 8/25 Did some slight defoliation. I think today I'm going to reorganize my grow space. Things are looking better though. Plants look healthier. Flower is on and they are going to beat hell. I'm glad I took a cutting from NY 9lb kush. I also took one from the NYCSA. THose are tge little ones. The 9lb kush is flowering pretty good. Too bad it's just on a 3 gal. The NYCSA us in a 10 gal grow bag though and is doing amazing. I still see septoria on the leaves. I'm sure I'll need to reapply plant doctor but thus far I'm impressed. Things LOOK better. I don't even remember the last time I watered. It Rained last night. Looks sunny today. I'm going to feed tomorrow. I want the soil to dry out though. We usually don't get consistent rain like this. It's a first for me. I'll update later if I get stuff done.still wondering if I should amputate that wilted branch or give it a bit. It's still attached right now. I'll get some sealant and do some more research.

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY MEDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Overall the plants look ok and the buds grow nicely👌 I slightly open the window every evenings to help reducing the humidity but last night I forgot to close it and woke-up very late in the morning because I was sick. The temperature dropped to 14°C during a few hours and the plants received some light during around 3 hours from the window's crack (see picture). I hope this will not mess with the flowering... If you had the same kind of experience I would be glad to hear how it turned out for you! Plants heights at the end of the week : ------------------------------------------- Gorilla Cookies : 108cm (final height) Purple Lemonade : 76cm (final height) Wedding Cheesecake : 96cm (final height)

The 3rd week was a big one all plants finished stretch period and it was becoming a little wild for a second. I moved 4 of the bigger girls into their own room with their own 1000w LED plus a shared 250w HPS in the center. I will be tying down branches to get flat canopy then each of the 4 will be pushed more towards the center for better light coverage do not mind the setup its not fully there but will be finished before the end of the week. In the main grow room there is a single 1000w HPS cool tube running at 100%. To remove the 4 bigger plants I had to cut the entire trellis off the canopy but will be placing a new layer this week as well. As for nutrients feedings well clearly from the size of these girls you can tell they have been eating. In about 2 weeks I will defoliate one last time and then its them vs. the world til havest. Happy Growing!

Switched the plants to flower this week and have noticed tons of growth since. Both plants have turned out to be female and are both producing pistils. Have run into a potential problem while defoliating I noticed a couple leaves on one stem that look like they were burnt almost. They weren’t bad but I haven’t noticed it anywhere else. I looked over a lot of the leaves with a healers loupe under 60x magnification and didn’t notice and insects, the leaves were also growing into the side of the tent so that might be what cause it but not too sure.

War ein Fest🤙 hat wirklich Spaß angemacht die Damen haben alles gegeben und sind mega resistent gegenüber Mehltau und Kälte. Generell begeistert von OGStrains aber dieses Kultivar ist on point ☮️

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

Heute wieder mal ein Update, langsam gehts mir echt nur noch auf den Keks mit diesem Koffer. Die komplette Hälfte der Pflanze wird durch die Lampe völlig verbrannt. Ich warte jetzt echt nur noch auf den Moment an dem die Minibuds erntebereit sind 😢

preflower on Day 33

Hello guys ! new week and an amazing week ! Told you she was working on her buds and now you can see all of them. It's the perfect moment for a small defoliation in order to increase the focus of the buds. You can see the videos Before and After. I will have to add bamboo stick because the buds are starting to be too heavy ! she is gonna start to show her colors next week I think. Hope you enjoy Take care Sawyer

From 3 leads i cut due to yellow spots, grows better and trying to reach up