Die Lemon Zkittle von MannyT sowie deren Schwestern sollten ja Anfang dieser Woche umziehen. Weil das Leben einem oft einen Strich durch die Rechnung macht, mussten sie bis Donnerstag in ihrem kleinen temporären Zuhause warten. 😖 Heute durften Sie endlich in die grossen 10L Aeroponik Eimer umziehen und haben Ihre Zufriedenheit auch innerhalb weniger Stunden gezeigt. Licht gibt es 200W 3K (LM301H) und 55W 440nm (Blau). Sprühinterval ist auf 30min am Tag, 60min bei Nacht für jeweils 5s eingestellt und wird beobachtet. Immerhin ist das der erste Drain To Waste Durchgang ohne Rückfluss Tank. Die schadhaften Blätter sind nun etwas größer und der Nährstoffmangel aus Woche 2 zeigt sich auf diesen jetzt deutlich. Den neuen Blättern und Trieben geht es allerdings super. Ein gutes Zeichen. 😎 Die Damen sind etwas kleiner als die anderen Strains, aber dafür verzweigter und haben ein beeindruckendes Wurzelsystem. 😁

I'm gonna jump right in..👨‍🌾 The high stress technique I have used a couple days ago called super cropping, I (tried more or less) to keep the canopy under control and more even. This also allow lower bud sites to rise to the top and slow down the 'stretching'. 🌲🌲🌲🌲🌞🌞🌞🌞 The trade in doing it at this stage, is that the plant is also focusing more on healing the stems instead of total focus on the buds. But I'm probably early enough in the flower stage they will make it up by having more strong stems in the end. That's because the points they are broken now are gonna heal back more strong.💪💪💪 I've added some nutrients to help them heal. Aptus is working great with my organic soil👍😎💚 🌊💦 🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞 As you maybe have seen I've added some extra lights. This are Mars Hydro's new Adlite's. Here is some info about them in my own words.👨‍🌾 -IR 15, is a infrared light that is promoting extra photosynthesis. Basically long wave length of lights that will penetrate leaves and hit the stems, so the idea is stems will be more strong and be able to carry bigger buds. -UV 30, is a ultraviolet light that will try to mimic the radiation that comes of the sun. A little explanation about what this does to the plant in nature is that the plant will make it's own sunblock oil in the form of trichomes. So by adding this light the idea is that the plant is gonna work more to block this 'radiation'. -Deep Red 30, is like the title maybe already explained a red light booster. In nature the spectrum of the sun changes with the season, so it's easy to explain the sun will get more intense and contains more red in the summer. The wavelength of red is also pretty long like the 'infrared' these will sometimes penetrate leaves and hit stems and lower buds. The idea is more photosynthesis.

Alle 3 sind enorm explodiert und größer geworden, das Pflanzengeflüster knallt richtig rein 👌🏻 Bei der Kontrolle sind mir ein paar Trauermücken aufgefallen, deshalb wurde eine neue Gelbtafeln reingehängt und mit Neudomück gegossen, um die Larven zu töten. Durch gezieltes Entlauben wollen wir die drei schön buschig bekommen, wobei die Cookies and Cream jetzt schon sehr gleichmäßig und buschig wächst. Nächste Woche stellen wir definitiv auf Blüte um, da sollten alle 3 bereit sein und es passt gut mit den Anwendungen vom Pflanzengeflüster. C&C und Seifuku erholen sich auch sehr gut vom Toppen und die neuen Triebe kommen gut. Um die Temperatur zu halten, wurde die SANlight 20 % mehr aufgedreht, also sind wir jetzt bei 60 % bei 75 cm Abstand. Somit ist die Lichtleistung, die bei den Pflanzen ankommt, nur leicht höher als vorher, die Temperatur bleibt aber stabil über 21 ° C "tagsüber".

Think she still going for another 2 week i reckon judging by trichomes and she still putting on the beef so will just play it by ear

I liked the taste, loved that the sugar leaves are filled with trichomes but it's just too little of a harvest for the effort. BTW, math is all wrong on the g/watt The Bestva 2000w doesn't use 1400w it uses around 390w Also, I put 25m2 because that's the total size of the tent that I used, it doesn't mean that 1 m2 would need 4 of those lamps. Also, it draws half of that when only veg is turned on. So, the correct math would be - 185w * 56 days of veg (18h) - 390w * 70 days of flower (12h) - 10g dry material - Total space around 25% of the tent Veg cycle: 185w / 1000 = 0.185 kW/h 0.185 kWh x 18 hours per day = 3.33 kW per day 3.3 kW per day x 56 day veg cycle = 186.48 kW per veg cycle for the whole tent 186.48 * 0.25 = 46kW for the area covered by the plant Flower cycle: 390w / 1000 = 0.39 kW/h 0.39 kWh x 12 hours per day = 4.68 kW per day 4.68 kW per day x 70 day flower cycle = 327.6 kW per flower cycle for the whole tent 327.6 * 0.25 = 81.9kW for the area covered by the plant Total: 46 kW (veg) + 81.9 kWh (flower) = 127.9 kW per entire cycle for the area covered by the plant 10 grams dried / 127.9 kWh = 0.08 grams per kW --- Total Harvest Total Harvest = 11g Choco + 66g KDA + 46g BC = 123g Total kW = 186.48 + 327.6 = 514.08 123g / 514.08 = 0.23 grams per kw

Hi, topman! It’s 21 day from seeding, so this the third week! They will be have a new 8 liters pot to next week. Its now we added new booster - Bud Candy by Advanced Nutrients! What is doing? 1. Carbohydrates nourish beneficial microbes, creating ideal conditions to expand the roots for ample yields. (C) 2. Magnesium supports optimal conditions for chlorophyll production that can increase photosynthetic ability. (C) Also, adding to Advanced Nutrients of words: we are use it for of mushrooms and mikariza food adds. See you… …keep an eve on this!

AAAnd there you have it. A nice experience, my second time making seeds! I harvested the first day of week 15. A lot to say about this experiment. It came out awesome, lots of seeds (more than 100!) Wich I also tested and came out with the exact same phenotype. I added some more pictures of the outcome and of the seeds, cause I don't have much more data about the harvest! Sorry for the last time haha! Also! Leave a comment if you want to see more old diaries, I might have 4 or so documented like this, Including the first test of the seeds Wich you see some pics here 🤞.

At the beginning of this week I switched over to blooming fertilizer and gave both plants about 1/4 gallon, beginning with 12ml/gal mix each type. Made a huge rookie error, and left the lights on for 24 hours beginning on day 58. I was out sick and didn't discover it for a few days. Poor girls, their soil dried a bit and they drooped for a couple days. I switched them back to 12 hours after discovering what had happened on day 62. I also bumped up their nutrient ratio to Heavy feeding (4 teaspoons per gallon) of Tiger Bloom and a little less than General Feeding (4 tablespoons per gallon) of Big Bloom, giving them 1 Qt of water/nutrient mix at lights out time. The next day they bounced right back to life! :-)

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

I use all 3 General hydroponic nutrients and they are two different pot sizes the Moby Dick is in 30 liter and the blue amnesia is in 18 liters has a very strong odor and blue amnesia is maturing at a faster rate then the Moby Dick. a scrog net is being used in order to give support to the upcoming buds. I am also actually on week 4 I just made a mistake calculating the week. this is my first grow ever. also I'm not sure if using the scroll net it's a good idea for support rather than tying those branches up . I am watering every two days feeding nutes every single time at 900 to 1000 PPM ph at 6.2 the plans have not show any signs of stress but I am worried if it is too much nutrients the plant seems to grow very fast after every watering and seems to be loving it. the blue Amnesia XXL Auto it's growing in soil with 30% Coco and the Moby Dick XXL auto it's growing in hydroponic soil. the seeds were germinated on jiffy's and 100% germination rate plus the genetics seems to me very resilient to heat and everything else including lots of nutrients. the moby Dick XXL auto are the two in the front closest to the camera the two farthest to the back of the tent are the two blue amnesiaXXL auto. today day 31 i did some pruning actually lots of pruning hopefully don't cause stress to the plants or even worse cause them not to bud that nicely regardless the scrog net seems to be working just fine helping them access more light and making it easy for cutting leaves that are no longer needed. 32 yesterday after watering and sleeping today they have show no signs of stress in fact they starting to stretch in the buds that we're not getting sufficient light have start to grow also yesterday from the 16 liters I prepare instead of 3 ml of grow formula I add 6 1/2 to compensate for stress and the need of healing and having new grow stretch. also temperature has dropped dramatically outside making my house cold down from 24 degrees C to 19° at night internal temperature is remaining the same from 30 to 26 C. Day 33 I have been raising the scrog net every day and the light everyday this plant is growing very fast I also notice that where the fan is hitting all the time that plant is bigger I have been moving the fan to other sections of the grow tent to see if any reaction happens and it looks like it makes the plant grow faster . I will not be moving the Scrog net any higher Rather I will introduce another one once they require more support . Day34 notice some of the top leaves are showing a curving down like over-watering without actually over water I think they're showing signs of too much nitrogen .for the next water session I will hold back on nitrogen until I see signs of a fully recovering meaning leafs pointing up. thank you for reading have a happy grow.

The weather in my country suddenly got warmer unexpectedly. That's why I'm having problems with the temperature. Still, it seems to be going well for now. I watered on the 51st day. I will do it again today and with full fertilizer.

As I dive deeper into week 6, the flowering stage is officially in full swing. I can feel the excitement in the air as the plants begin to transform into their beautiful selves. This week, I've continued to band and apply Low-Stress Training (LST) techniques, ensuring that the branches are positioned just right for optimal light exposure. It's all about maximizing potential, and I'm committed to giving them every advantage possible. I've also been diligent with defoliation, carefully removing some leaves to improve airflow and light penetration. It's a delicate balance, but I believe it will pay off as the flower start to form. I've been sticking to the full schedule of the Canne Terra set, and the plants are reacting exceptionally well to both the feeding and the LST. Their growth is vigorous, and I’m pleased with how robust they’re looking. A fascinating development this week is the emergence of a subtle, sweet smell. It’s a delightful reminder that the plants are truly in their element. I can't help but relish this part of the journey. With the buds on the horizon, I’m eager to see how they will develop in the coming weeks. The anticipation is palpable, and I’m ready for the rewards that lie ahead. Here's to another exciting week in the garden!

trimmed and netted the plants last night, 12/30, and the energy pushed the plants to stretch another 1/2 inch+ this will be the last week of vegetation as I prep this light leaking tent for flower, not a fan of mars hydro at all right now. their poles are the weakest I've encountered yet, too many light leaks and this is the first grow with it. My high cfm fan , which is only a 4", is pulling the fabric too much and causing the leaks to grow a bit. This is not new, its been happening with indoor tents for a while now but I thought a grow company such as MH would have a decent, respectable tent. My solution is Blackout Curtains draped over the sides. However, I am hesitant to do this with the MH tent as the poles for the tent are too weak as it is, tsk tsk tsk mars hydro. will continue to increase the watts the next 6 days HAPPY NEW YEAR a combination of light and fresh soil has made the plants stretch so I will finish tightening up the MH tent today and ill start flower tomorrow, day 62. while adjusting the height I must have nudged the dial for the dimmer and sent it to 184w. this would have been a big jump but manageable but I lowered the light 7" and the plants took a bit of a hit. I adjusted the light back down to 160w and I'll let the plants recover before anymore adjustments.

Une des plantes va mal, je pense que le petit pot ne lui convient pas. J'ai observé au microscope les trichomes, ils commencent à devenir bien laiteux avec quelques ambrés, je vais la récolter d'ici 2 semaines avant que sont état s'empire. Les deux autres vont très bien, l'une d'entre elle commence à sentir fort, et prendre une couleur de plus en plus violette. Je reste attentif car je vois des signes de carences en calcium, magnésium et en potassium. La dernière entre dans sa troisième semaine de floraison, elle se porte bien !

Day 29 of flowering, she's filling out nicely. The video is Day 30 of flowering.

one more week and harvest . Smell strog !! Day 74 pics in post

And thats why I hate this stage 😂😂😂... Is torture wait for taste this beauty's, the northern lights are surprising me, they are slowly but huge strains.

Hi liebe Community and Welcome Back! 🌿💚 Willkommen zur neunten vergangenen Blütewoche! Blütetag 71 Die Buds haben nochmal an Dichte und Größe zugelegt. Es ist ein massiver Gorilla geworden 😜 Ich bin beeindruckt, welche Power nochmal zum Ausdruck kommt. Auf jeden Fall zeigen sich Phenotypische unterschiede in der Gesamtstruktur. Bei dieser Pflanze färben sich die Blüten teilweise Rosa, richtig schön. Allmählich kommen wir auf die Zielgeraden. Sie zeigt eine richtig schöne Struktur und wir landen beim Ertrag sicherlich im XXL Bereich. Das Aroma hat bei dieser Pflanze einen stärkeren süsslichen und fruchtigen Touch, wobei inzwischen auch etwas herbere und beißendere Untertöne (etwas Chemisch) hinzu kamen. Der Trichomcheck zeigt allerdings, dass die Ausreifung nochmal mehr Zeit in Anspruch nimmt als vermutet. Die Umgebungsgegebenheiten sind aktuell gut: ————— 🌞 Temp: 27 🌚 Temp: 18°C bis 19°C 💨 RH: 62% VPD: 0,96kPa 💡ppfd: 830 mpm ————— Viele Grüße 👋