Cherry Poppers rddy 2 cut HerzOG needs 1-2 more weeks

Tip#5: keep your reservoir cool in the heat! Invest in a water chiller and be done with it. I’ve been using frozen water bottles and wreaking havoc on my roots. I was also slow to put styrofoam blanket around my reservoir and wrap with aluminum foil. I should have had that all in place not being reactive to the heat. I've had her Outdoor all week approx 9 hours sun and 3 hours cloud/shade day. This week temperatures are soaring into the high 20s low 30s. To keep roots happy, I use ice bottles in my reservoir when hot. I try not to let the leaves go into full stress mode i'll just have them hovering near that point. I'm on the north facing slope so the shade arrives just when the plant is starting to stress out. Running grow tent lights 530am-530pm is most ideal you can get in my spot. I cover my reservoir so the sun doesn't penetrate my basket and heat can dissipate. Night temps are down to 12 outside but in tent it is stable above 17c. I planned for budding in this weather window because of the temperature drops is said to help with terp development. The second picture shows how important calmag is to healthy growth. Experience with RO water has taught me a lot about plant calmag intakes. Too much you'll burn tips and chance lockout, not enough can cause widespread cell death and slow growth. I halfing her calmag dose now she's in 4th week of flower. I'm also removing big bud from my nutrient line after this week's reservoir change. Midway through the week wildfires are raging creating ideal conditions I don't have the resources to mimic. high CO2 ppms and high red spectrum light. High UV light which is damaging is being refracted into more absorb-able light. Temperatures also didn't peak above 32c today with the smoke cover and haze breezy winds: it peaked at a balmy almost perfect 27c. My prayers go out to those affected by the wildfires. LST training today opened up more bud sites to the light. Now she no longer fits in the 2x4 darkroom tent so I had to modify a lil. Stretch phase done It’s nearing end of week and she's drinking two 1.75 litre pitchers of solution. I refreshed my reservoir and will top up with a more concentrated solution as I think she's getting more piggy. I added h2o2 to reservoir at the wend of the week.

Hey hey ! I left my girls during 4 days without watering due a hospitalization ! I discovered this girl like this when I opened the room and she exploded !! Day 3 : floweeeers comin ! Day 6: little defoliation and 🍭 lollipop on this girl : she’s clean now !

-fast Diarie Finish up sorry. [Im Back soon !]

Taking a long time to see Amber on this one. Gonna cut down a branch and see how it smokes. Smell is nice, but not too strong. Think it may be done. We shall see.

Plant looking OK with signs of pre-flowering. All LST'd stems almost fully over pot edge and nodes on the stems developing well. All plants currently growing seem smaller when I compare the pics to my previous grows at the same age. Only one feed this this past week as I allowed the pots to dry out from the rain in the previous week. Supplemented feed yesterday with my Beneficial Booster. I made a mistake when preparing and put in double the amount of molasses but the plants seem to be tolerating it so far this morning.

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Ive got two Skunk Apple Runz plants(tossed 1 when I repotted the plants) with exotic-looking leaves and some great genetics. These are seeds I made and both the parents were top notch. They're both about five inches tall and growing strong they both seem to have the growth strength from the ricky bobby Unfortunately, one of them might not make it because of some damage or mutation im not sure, it just seems to have stop growing upward correctly but the other one's looking really healthy. Happy late turkey day grow diaries world!!!! It's now day 24 from seed for all the seedlings I have going. The past few days the plants have really started to take off. There roots have really started to dig in. Every other water I am still giving 2ml per gal of fox farm grow big. I keep having to tell myself not to add any more nutes other than that. I don't want to fry my plants but I also want they to start jumping. I'm quite excited for the coming week, I think the next 7 days or so is when the plant really starts to transform and look more like a pot plant than just some random little green thing. A few days ago I decided to move the plants from under my 55w cheep amazon light to under my spider farmer 100w newer version light with the good leds in it. The plants will hopefully be ready to up pot them here soon and get them in the large tent. Sometimes when growing multiple different strains it can be really hard to balance giving to much or to little light. You don't want the faster growing plants to get to stretched out waiting on the slower plants to catch up I spend Thanksgiving day morning transplanting the plants into 2gal pots. I am useing spme promix potting soil it's my 1st time tring this soil. It is actually doing really well the roots were all white and nice looking. I think next time I'm going to add some worm casting, kelp, granular mycos, and a little bit extra perlite. I just didn't have the money with christmas coming to splurge for all the extra stuff. I got rid of 2 plants 1 of the bubble og and 1 skunk apple runtz. There is only room for 10 pots in the 2x4 tent. I will peob only bring 8 of them to flower, always good to have back ups. Yesterday I also stuck the plants back under the 500w medicgrow mini sun 2 in my 2x4 tent. They did great under it the 2nd half the day I was happy they didn't get stressed. I had put them under that light a little early about 10 days ago or so. I am expecting in a week these plants will ge going crazy with growth

Hey everyone! Volume hasn't increased dramatically this week, but trichome production has gone into overdrive. And honestly, that makes me just as happy. Pistils are still almost entirely white, so the colas haven't fully expressed their potential yet. There's more to come. Temperatures hit 31°C during the day and 28-29°C at night, yet the Rainbows have maintained solid vigor throughout. Runoff EC came in only 0.2 points above input, so the nutrient solution stays unchanged. Plants are clearly in a good place. One thought though: could the trichome explosion be a natural defense response to the heat? What do you all think? 🤔 Good luck to everyone and as always critiques and advice are more than welcome! 🙌

Week 3 of flower for Lemon Orange by Greenhouseseedco, Shes been getting daily small defoliations in prep for day 21 (today) Shes staring to put on some size. She got a feed of 7.5g of BioBloom as her last proper feed, likely to feed some extra calcium later in flower. They are all stacking quite nicely with the smaller pheno plant seems to be 3/4days ahead of everyone else.

Hey buddies Here we are week 6 of flower The plants are looking great Nice and green but the terps could be stronger. The small one really putting on some frost though See you next week!

Quick update on Fractal..Proceeding well overall but showing more signs of light stress compared to her tent mates. Reduced lamp intensity to 60% to help her finish strong. We’re almost there now! Thanks to everyone for checking in! 🙏 Appreciate you taking a look!

Great grow overall ! Had fun!

She looks wonderfully beautiful and vert healthy,she just like her sisters has started flower on August 3rd let's see how she performs,I'm loving this strain Black cherry punch so far! 🔝💚

Welcome to my sponsored Runtz X Layer Cake from BarneysFarm. Was only in the ground 12hrs and she was up. As you'll see in the germination week she had a 1 - 1.5cm tap root and. I mixed 3g of powder for every 1L of light mix substrate. I filled the pot 3/4 full and wet with 300ml of bioenhancer, sprayed the rest that was going in on top, soil needs to be ready, (don't water after you put the substrate in, the seed can move, drown, the soil that was lightly packed in falls in on itself and you'll have collapse later on as she starts to grow. Don't compact the soil In yourself, the liquid should do it. Fill the rest of the 1/4 of the pot with your damp substrate and make a little mound, (pic above) make sure the tap root is facing down, (now some tap roots might curl up, don't try bending it down into the substrate, what you need to do is place it on an angle, / like that tap root on bottom and the root will take hold and the seed will push itself up, if you try force the tap root down you risk breaking the tap and seed might die. Trying to keep the RH as High as I can without compromising my late flowering plants in my big tent. The seedling tent is inside the big one on a negative seal. I have a damp towl in the small tent why you see a 10% dif in RH when my plants finish up next week I'll up the RH to 70+%. Seedling Day 3. She's doing great. Settling in well in her new digs. Hopefully soon we'll start seeing a lot of fungus, (mycelium), seeing some already so it's great. Just water and Bioenhancer every 2 weeks, so far, so good. Now that we are in optimal growing range for seedlings I'm expecting things to take off in the next 2 weeks. Seedling Day 7, she's moved quickly the last 2 days. Barneys strains are so strong and quick. You can tell they are hybrids. (Hybrids are when you have a mix between indica & sativa) and this girl is 50/50..

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

There’s microscopic bugs crawling on my buds! Going to post a grow question about them. No more nutrients, she’s definitely getting close, so let’s use plain water and hope for the best in the next week or two.