8/14 Everything looked beautiful this morning. Seems like I've got the watering schedule down better. I do have one gmo that looks hungry so I need to increase nutes. At least on that plant. Toasted toffy has little spits that could be water marks, pests or septoria. I don't think it's septoria. In the pastvi lost far more leaves when I had septoria. I've been crazy busy. I'm surprised things are going this well. I need to put up the final supports so I can add to them once I've got big heavy buds. I was really stoked to see everything doing so well. The plant in the 50gallon is the furthest in flower. I'm so grateful to have the ability to grow high quality cannabis for myself amd my wife. There's nothing quite like it. That hash I made turned out great. I think I'll press it today. Supports will be done this week. Saw a few aphids on the plant I cut down. Earwigs aren't here this summer or there would be NO aphids. Plus when I cleaned out the insides this morning I found some dead leaves WAY in the middle by the stalk. They would've eaten that shit if they were here. Birds and other predators seem to be keeping pillars at bay. I'm not seeing the damage and when I do sfind one it's absolutely tiny like a newborn. I'll think about whether I need to spray BT. 8/15 That fucking cancel button always fucks everything out. I was done no I need to start over. Didn't water last night. Found pm on my gmo in the 30. Interior of the plant. Should've defoliated better and earlier. Oh well. I'll treat with k bicarb or plant doctor. I'll have to think about it. Other plants are looking good. Well they all are. I just hate pm. I can't isolate it due to local laws so it is what it is. Nothing I haven't dealt with before. Watered today. The middle gmo in the 30 got 1.5 gallons. The other plants each got a gallon. Including the one in the 10gal and 50 gal. Its supposed to rain but only like .1. I also chose to feed today. All plants got a gallon. I DID NOT WATER THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE AND THE SHERB PIE AS THEY WERE PRAYING AND HEAVY. I need to get these supports up. I'll update as I go. Oh and one thing I remembered is that, I didn't properly sanitize the trellis nets I installed on the plant that has pm (non visible today but still). I harvested the plant that used that bet last year was harvested in two stages. The bottom I let go way later and ended up with a little pm on the stuff I left for hash material and it got some pm. I wonder if that's whete this came from. 8/16 Death in the family this morning. I couldn't decide if I should use organocide plant doctor or not. It's a systemic It's been discontinued and reformulated. It's a systemic fungicide. Instead I mixed two tsp potassium bicarbonate with a little dawn in a half gallon mister. I used gloves and defoliated everything that had pm on it. I checked the plants next to it and luckily it hasn't spread yet....but it will. I feel safer using the k bicarb. I'll do more research and try to find the best way to tackle this. I don't want to get rid of the plant and due to local ordinance I can't isolate it. If I can keep it to this one plantvthat would be fine. I'd just use it for extracts. So glad I didn't use all that netting and put up tjosr supports. I'll need to disinfect them if I decide to use them. We'll see. Plants are coming right along flowering. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF fan leaves and interior stuff to promote airflow. Still saw pm on that plant u had treated earlier with k bicarb. I can't isolate due to laws and I'm not willing to discard this massive monster cropped plant. So I'm going to treat it. I started by removing everything infected and improving airflow on that plant and all the others. I didn't make it to one event horizon. I plan to treat the infected plant with Organocide Plant Doctor since its what I have on hand and I've had good luck. It's a systemic. After I treat the one plant and see that it didn't hurt the plant I'll use a preventative dosage on the other plants. I've battled wpm several times. This is something I'm very familiar with. What sucks is it's totally my fault it happened due to grower error. This has set back me puttingvup my supports as well. Plants look good woth a haircut. Also the toasted toffy had some leaves removed with spots that looked like septoria. I think nutes havecreally kicked things in gear. Now there are little buds on plants. 8/17 BAGS still seemed heavy so I didn't water. It's been MUCH cooler. It's 63 at 9am. It would normally be 80 by now so maybe they aren't using as much water. I watered the the toasted toffy I missed last round but the Sherb Pie still had weight to it. I also watered the GMO on the far side and the one in the 30 as the seemed a little lighter. I looked in and I couldn't find a SPOT of powder mildew on the plant! I know it will come back but on this 100% rh day there isn't a spot I can find! I'm going to go check on them later today. Do some more defoliation and treat the plants with Plant Doctor to try to mitigate the spread of the P.M. Very suprised the k bicarb worked like that. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 11. I WATERED THE TWO THAT DIDNT GET WATERED LAST TIME. THE EVENT HORIZON AND THE SHERB PIE. IT WAS COLD AND OVERCAST. TEMPS HAVE BEEN MUCH COOLER. SOON AS I WATERED THE SUN CAME OHT AND THE TEMP WENT UP. I WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS I MISSED AND SEFOLIATED LEAVES AND INTERIOR BRANCHES TO INCREASE AIRFLOW. SURPRISED TO STILL SEE NO PM WITH 100% HUMIDITY. I WENT THROUGH EVERY PLANT. ILL NEED TO GO TJROUGH AGAIN BUT TJIS IS MUCH BETTER. THE TOASTED TOFFY THAT MAY HAVE SEPTORIA I WILL TREAT TONOGHT WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I REMOVED ANYTHING LOOKING INFECTED. I LSTed THE BIGGEST BRANCHES WITH CLIPS TO THE BAG AMD TWINE. SO AIRFLOW IS MUCH BETTER. I THEN REMOVED A BU CH OF THE MIDDLE. I COULD TAKE MORE BUT ON OUTDOOR HARVESTS THAT LITTLE STUFF GOES IN EXTRACTS. I PUT A FEW HOURS IN TODAY. IM GOING BACK AND ILL TEST THE PLANT DOCTOR ON THE TOASTED TOFFY. BUT IF THE K BICARB WORKS THIS GOOD ILL JUST KEEP USING THAT. 8/18 It started sprinkling when I left this morning. I did more defoliation on a few different plants. Including the healthiest GMO. It seems like things should be further in flower but it is what it is. I'm not doing clones again. Only reason I did is because I lost my 72 seedlings and depleted my seed supply. I hate treating pm. Lost Coast Plant Therapy I'd really whete its at when it comes to treating pm. I might just order that. My commercial buddy told me that he wouldn't use the plant doctor and not to "spray shot all over my plants". He's probably right. I see something small and try to overcurrent. I dont see any more septoria looking leaves on the toasted toffy since I lsted it and removed damaged leaves. I was going to use the fungicide plant doctor on that and then use it ad a preventative. He's probably right. I've put a lot of work in defoliation and such. It WILL spread but it hasn't yet. I removed what I saw. I was going to hit it again with k bicarb but it said it should be weekly treatments.i hope I'm doing things right. I shouldn't be this worried about pm but I've got am anxiety disorder. I'll fully sterilize (AGAIN) my posts and trellis netting before I instal it. I'll probably go check on them later. It's hard to avoid pm with 100% humidity and 30° temp swings. I've got a few lights so maybe this winter I'll do indoor. I'll try to keep this updated. LOOKING BACK AT PRIOR DIARIES I GUESS IM RIGHT WHERE I SHOULD BE FLOWERING WISE. I JUST HAD A COUPLE REALLY EARLY PHENOS A COUPLE TIMES. 8/19 Defoliated some more stuff amd tried to improve airflow. Humidity is high and it was sprinkling earlier. I think we'll have showers. Not seeing much pm. MAYBE a little in the middle of that middle gmo but it could just be residue. I'll treat it again with potassium bicarbonate soon. If that doesn't work I'll switch up treatments. I've got citric acid amd some other stuff too. I almost ordered lost coast last night but decided I'd wait to try it out. The toasted toffy has SOME spots that look like septoria. It's the second furthest in flower and very indica leaning. It seems to be flowering vigorously so I don't want to fuck with it too much. I could use plant doctor on it and see what happens but I'm going to monitor for a few days after defoliating. WENT BACK OVER AROUND 4 AND SHOOK OFFCTHE PLANTS. HADNT RAINED MUCH. BAGS ARE STILL HEAVY. THE TEN WAS LIGHT AND THE EVENT HORIZON BESIDE IT SEEMED A LITTLE LGHT AS WELL. I THINK IT MIGHT BE ME COMPARING THEM TO OTHER PLANTS THAT ARE SATURATED. SEEING HOW THEY BOTH LOOKED THE BEST IVE EVER SEEN THEM I HELD OFF WATERING. ITS ALSO SPRINKL9NG AMD GOING TO RAIN TONIGHT. ILL REASSESS IN THE MORNING. PLANNED ON USING PLANT DOCTOR ON TOASTED TOFFY BUT DECIDED AGAINST IT PARTIALLY DUE TO THE RAIN. PARTIALLY BECAUSE I PUSSED OUT. I WANTED TO FEED. IVE NOTICED SOME FADE AND PLANTS PUSHING AND TRYING TO GET OVER THE FENXE INTO FLOWER. THE TOASTED TOFFY AND THE UNKNOWN IN THE 50 ATE THE FURTHEST ALONG AND DEVELOPING ROCK HARD BUDS. GMO HAS A MASSIVE STRETCH. THINGS CHANGE DAILY. I WANTED TO GET A GOOD DOSE OF NUTES IN SO AFTER THIS LITTLE BIT OF RAIN WHEN WE GET THAT NICE SUNSHINE MY PLANTS WILL TAKE OFF!! THEY'VE BEEN PROGRESSING FAST DESPITE THE SHITTY WEATHER. 8/20 It's still sprinkling. It SAYS WE got zero rain yesterday but that's just not true. Today is supposed to be light showers with like .02 in 9f rain. I mixed up some water to check the plants. I figured a few would he light. The event horizon on the back SEEMED a little light. So did the one invthe ten. I realized it was just comparing it to the bags that were saturated. Still I ended up giving the event horizon in the back a half gallon and split the other half with the one in the 10 that dries out super fast. It's crazy. The weather just abruptly changed one day and I go from watering twice a day to hardly at all! Everything but the sherb pie and the seedling in the 10gal are vigorously flowering. Upping the nutes was a smart move. The seemed to like it. I'm gonna check later and as soon as I can I'll hit that toasted toffy with plant doctor. That's tied for furthest along in flower. I've done a bunch of research and I think this is the right move. I'll keep this updated. After this small patch of shitty weather we are goingvto get some sun amd these girls will EXPLODE! WENT BACK OVER A FEW TIMES. LAST AT SIX. I DID SOME DEFOLIATION AND PRUNING OF PLANT INTERIORS. ITS ABOUT TIME TO TREAT THE TOASTED TOFFY AGAIN WITH PLANT DOCTOR. I CAN SEE SOME SEPTORIA SPOTS. I TREATED THE EVENT HORIZON THIS MORNING. IT GOT A FEW HOURS BEFORE A LITTPE RAIN WND THEN SUNNY AND 80. I USED BETWEEN A QUARTER AND HALF GALLON ON THE INE PLANT. I MAY NOT HAVE USED ENOUGH OF THE MIXED UP SOLUTION ONVTHE TOASTED TOFFY. IT HAD BEEN WORKING AWESOME AND NOW THAT ITS TIME TO REAPPLY I NOTICE A FEW LEAVES THAT LOOK INFECTED. OVER THE NEXT WEEK ILL BE MONITORING THE RESPONS FROM THE PLANT DOCTOR. I'M CONSIDERING APPLYING PLANT DOCTOR TO THE REST OF THE GARDEN. I THIBJ THE K BICARB HAS BEEN DOING GOOD KEEPING THE PM DOWN ON THE MIDDLE GMO. I HATE THAT I HAVE TO FIGHT DISEASES. IM NOT DOING CLONES AGAIN. AND IM GOING TO BE MUCH CLEANER. THE SHERB PIE LOOKS A LITTLE OVERWATERED AND HAS SOME YELLOW LEAVES BUT MANY HAVE TURNED PURPLE AND OTHER FALL COLORS. THE PLANTS ARE AGGRESSIVELY FLOWERING AND TEMPS ARE CHANGING. STILL IN EARLY FLOWER. IVE GOT A GOOD FEELING. IVE DEALT WITH MUCH WORSE AND CAME OUT GOOD.

Bonsais are being made😅😉 All good I have changed the soil so now they grow rapidly especially CBD Blue Shark. :) I had no choice realised that using the same soil over and over is mitake. Big one. Now it is okaz Purple Punches are in the 3rd week of flowering and Blue Shark is in veg i am not sure how long I will keep her like that. Fertilization continues with the mix above on Monday, Wednesday, Saturday. Day 39: I keep doing LST on CBD Blue Shark spreading her.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Jour42 ma plante entre bien en floraison je pratique sur elle une defolliation pour permettre aux têtes de prendre la lumière La floraison des plantes de cannabis La plante de cannabis passe par différentes étapes de vie avant de parvenir à la récolte. Ces étapes sont : la germination, la pré-croissance, la croissance et la floraison. Pour les autofloraisons il n'est pas nécessaire d'avoir de changer le cycle de lumière elle entre en floraison automatiquement voilà d'où elle tient son nom "d'autofloraison" L'origine de l'auto-floraison vient de la sous-espèce "cannabis sativa ruderalis" , qui à l'origine produit de très faibles niveaux de THC. C'est en croisant cette variété de marijuana avec d'autres qui produisent des niveaux de THC plus élevés qu'à vu le jour ce magnifique compromis que sont les variétés auto-fleurissantes avec des taux de THC très satisfaisants. En parallèle, cela a permis d'améliorer la production de ces variétés, qui initialement étaient exceptionnellement basse. Pour des résultats optimaux, en culture Outdoor (extérieur), je recommande que la germination des graines de marijuanaAuto-flo se fasse entre avril et août. En culture Indoor(intérieur), la photopériode idéale que ce soit pour la croissance comme pour la floraison est de 20h de lumière. N'oubliez pas que ces graines ne sont pas tributaires de la photopériode pour passer en floraison. Il est préférable d'utiliser des pots d'une capacité de 10 à 20L dès le début, étant donné que leur cycle de vie est réduit, les auto-flo n'ent pas besoin de plus de volume pour se développer. Vu sa petite taille (et la discrétion) elle fait l'objet d'un bon choix pour la culture de cannabis sur balcons. La première variété de Lowryder auto-floraison a été créé à partir de cannabis indica sativa croisé avec des génétiques de cannabis sativa rudelaris par la banque de graines de marijuana "The Joint Doctor". Puis vinrent la White Dwarf de "Buddha Seeds", la Roadrunnerde "Dinafem", l' Auto Stoned d' "Autofem", la Speed Devil de "Sweet Seeds" , la Maxi Gom de "Grassomatic", la Flash, la Gnomo de Kannabiaet bien d'autres. Jour42 defolliation (video) Avant toute chose n'oublions pas de bien désinfecter ses outils et bien ce laver les mains. Quesque la defolliation ? LES CULTIVATEURS AMATEURS, PRENEZ GARDE, MAIS NE PRENEZ PAS PEUR La défoliation consiste à retirer les feuilles des plants de cannabis en intérieur afin d'accroître le rendementfinal. Le cultivateur amateur doit faire preuve de vigilance lorsqu'il commence à appliquer cette technique de taille. Malgré le débat sans fin entre ceux qui prônent cette technique et ceux qui la dénigre, il n'y aucune raison pour qu'un amateur ne s'y essaie pas afin de voir si ça lui convient ou non. COMMENT DÉFOLIER Que vous tailliez les feuilles ou les branches des plants de cannabis, il vaut mieux utiliser un sécateur stérile qui est confortable en main. Arracher des feuilles à la main manque de finesse et engendre souvent par accident, l'arrachement des couches d'une tige en plus de la feuille. L'objectif principal de la défoliation est de permettre une meilleure pénétration de la lumière et de promouvoir la production de plus grosses têtes. Les feuilles éventails qui font de l'ombre doivent être retirées. Tailler la tige principale et/ou les pousses secondaires n'est pas de la défoliation. La règle d'or lorsque vous donnez à vos plantes un rafraîchissement est de commencer avec les feuilles nourricières les plus grandes et les plus larges, en taillant du bas vers le haut. Il est important de retirer les feuilles stratégiquement et non pas au hasard. Pensez également qu'il vous faut limiter votre rafraîchissement à approximativement 10 à 20 % des feuilles totales de votre pied. Il est très facile de s'emporter durant la taille et de se retrouver avec des plantes chauves. Un excès de taille de feuilles empêchera la photosynthèse et paralysera vos plants. QUAND FAUT-IL DÉFOLIER Il est assez rare d'appliquer la défoliation comme seule technique pour obtenir un fort rendement. La taille des feuilles est généralement associée à d'autres méthodes de tailles et de palissage pour un meilleur rendement telles que le topping ou étêtage, le FIMming, le LST, le manifolding, le supercropping et le ScrOG. Les cultivateurs utilisant la méthode ScrOG auront besoin de retirer toutes les croissances inférieures ainsi que les feuilles et les tiges se trouvant sous le filet. Les plants de cannabis peuvent être défoliés dès lors qu'ils sont passés de la phase de plantule vers la phase de croissance végétative. Cependant, il est recommandé aux cultivateurs amateurs de laisser aux plantes 1 à 2 semaines de croissance végétative avant de s'attaquer à la défoliation de celles-ci. De plus, certaines variétés sont plus sensibles à la taille que d'autres et de ce fait, seront plus stressées par la taille des feuilles. Surveillez minutieusement le comportement de vos plants après la taille. Une période de convalescence de minimum 3 à 7 jours avant de recommencer la défoliation est fortement recommandée pour éviter trop de stress aux plants. Les cultivateurs peuvent également défolier pendant la phase de floraison, ce qui permettra à l'énergie de la plante d'être concentrée vers la production de têtes tout en limitant l'ombre et l'excès d'humidité. Néanmoins, il est important de ne pas défolier trop tard sous peine de simplement blesser ses plants inutilement. LES AVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Évidemment, l'avantage numéro un de la défoliation, c'est l'augmentation du potentiel de rendement de cette technique de taille pour tous types de cannabis allant de la photopériode aux variétés autofloraison. Ce n'est pas un secret que les fleurs qui reçoivent plus de lumières deviennent plus grandes et larges que celles dissimulées dans l'ombre des feuilles. De plus, retirer les feuilles intérieures des plants touffus aide à prévenir toutes menaces de moisissure. Les plants très feuillus avec un feuillage intérieur dense produiront une quantité importante de têtes pop-corn. Dans le pire des cas, les branches de têtes et les têtes qui sont denses succomberont au pourrissement. Si vous observez des gouttes d'eau se former sur la surface des feuilles, il est grand temps de penser à faire de la défoliation. Libérer la zone inférieure et médiane des feuilles est un excellent moyen d'améliorer la circulation de l'air. LES DÉSAVANTAGES DE LA DÉFOLIATION Les plants de cannabis en intérieur bénéficient de la défoliation pour deux raisons. La première est parce qu'ils reçoivent la lumière d'une source stationnaire au-dessus d'eux, et la deuxième est parce que les conditions environnementales sont contrôlées par le cultivateur et non Mère Nature. Les plants d'extérieurs eux, n'y gagnent pas beaucoup, car les cas échéants se vérifient pour eux. Le soleil traverse le ciel, illuminant sur sa route, différentes portions de la plante de son lever à son coucher. Les cultivateurs en extérieur n'ont pas besoin de manipuler les plantes afin qu'elles se développent en adoptant une structure plate puisque le soleil est infiniment plus puissant que n'importe quelle lampe de culture et qui plus est, il est toujours en mouvement. Tailler les feuilles des plants extérieurs les rend également plus vulnérables aux conditions humides et brise leurs barrières naturelles contres les nuisibles. De nombreux cultivateurs d'intérieur peuvent, et malheureusement, c'est souvent le cas, réduire le rendement final à cause d'une défoliation faite au mauvais moment et/ou excessive. Tailler les plantules n'est pas conseillé et engendre souvent des plants nains. Scalper les plants matures est encore pire, et au lieu d'obtenir de longues branches de têtes, vous obtiendrez probablement encore moins de fleurs. De même, tailler des plants malades ou en mauvaise santé à n'importe quelle période de la croissance risque de paralyser la croissance plutôt que d'encourager la formation de fleurs denses. Jour44 Arrosage une fois sur 2 topmax de biobizz Jour46 arrosage avec de l'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 0.8g par litre d'eau de feeding enhancer greenhouse. Jour47 léger arrosage. Jour48 léger arrosage

Avevo staccato due cime per pianta delle kmintz. Mantengono quello che sentivo mentre le toccavo. La prima pianta sa di caramelle zkittlez con un fumo che nell aria non è il classico odore di erba ma qualcosa di incensato e mi fa impazzire.La seconda è decisamente più complessa. Zkittlez/frutti di bosco/nocciola/gas. Ho scritto oggi a Ripper Seeds facendo vedere un po di foto e mi hanno detto di tagliarle pure anche se manca qualche giorno rispetto ai 63 dichiarati dalla casa.Ho già ricomprato 5 semi perché le rifarò sicuramente se non il prossimo ciclo quello dopo. Le due Watermelon Zkittlez proseguono la fioritura. A settimana prossima coltivatori 💪🤞

White fue trasplantada hace 2 semanas y va muy bien. Las lluvia no han dejado que riegue. en 2 días se pone fertilizante y se sigue con el LST. 38 CM alto 79 largo

6 plants temporary moving out to the new room until new seeds arrive 4 days later: 9 more (all) plants moving out to the new room ____________________________________________ light- and watering schedule: see photos now: 15 plants 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 1 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 2 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 1 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup + strategy: 18 seeds 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 3 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 2 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup: 18 x gronest 2 liter 60 cm x 120 cm x 180 cm (2 x 4) growtent 4 l humidifier 25 watt axial fan 15 watt clip fan ro-filter bath room with a 50 watts room fan (-> carbon filter not necessary) ...and a lot of odds and ends. grow strategy: max yield by stressing with: 1. tiny shoes (2 l fabric pots standing on 3 plastic rings (4 cm) for max oxygen) 2. tiny growspace (18plants on 0.72 sqm) 3. many strains (8 strains) 4. annoying neighbourhood (mixing old - i.e. bubblegum (late 80's) - with young- i.e. hazeberry (2018) - genetics) 5. no stress by light or food or water 6. unintentionally too much food plus: - no lst - no hst - just leaf tucking - positioning bigger strains (euphoria, orange bud, haze berry) or just bigger phenos on less intense light spots (end of tent + edges) - music-rotation: 24 hrs reggae (for sativas) - 24 hrs classicals (because it's scientifically proofed) - 24 hrs traditionals from the hindukush region (for the indicas) max efficiency (min electricity - max yield): - light: 23 h on - 1 h off - keeping the distance of 18" (45 cm) and dimming to the right par (lux) - value depending on growing stages (see sheet: beginning 185 par ( 10000 lux/100 watt )/end 340 par ( 18000 lux/175 watt )) => ends up in approx. 170 watts in average over max 15 weeks temperatur management: - using approx. max. half of what the lamp can do keeps temperature low: my tsl 2000 is pulling max. 360 watts of the wall - i need only 175 watts, results in less temperature than using a 175 watts lamp - adjusting the temperature by using a humidifier outside of tent: blown in humidity is soaking degrees and is transported out by fan, works much better than doing the same with pure air summer extreme: no humidifier: 36°C / 35 rh - with humidifier: 29°C / 65 rh works for 1-2 weeks of real hot summer days, no mould, no signs of stress in two summers germination: seeding in waterglass spraying "basic"-water: ro-water (22 ppm) + calmag to 180 ppm every 4 - 8 hours until sprouted man versus fungus gnat: 5 days before seeding i'm running the tent with "basic"-watered pots as if there were plants inside - led on, fans on, humidifier on. Fungus gnats coming with the soil might take the chance to come out now for breeding. i'm waiting with a 9 mm rifle. in the past i found 6 gnats in 2 of 8 x 50 l biobizz lightmix bags coming out of the soil. i could eliminate every single gnat successfully ;) rotating harvest: the little ones will be harvested completely when ready. at this point only the top branches of the big ones will be cut...and the new (basic-watered) pots of the new grow will move into the tent. 2-3 weeks later the secod half of the big ones will be cut and the second half of the new grow will move in... nutes: biobizz / soil: biobizz lightmix bloom,grow,topmax,activera,algamic + aminopower instead of bio heaven (too expensive) individual feeding schedule/once a week: veg: 200 - 600 ppm bloom: 600 - 900 ppm water: ro-water with: veg: 100-150 ppm calmag bloom: 150 ppm calmag

Hun er virkelig blevet en stærk lille pige 😊😇👌💪

the first steps. I put it in a glass of water , later I will transfer it to paper towels . as practice shows, the method is working

Be outside to day :)))

EDIT: I've added some pics and video of my negative pressure setup to ensure no smells in my little 8x8 office! In fact, this room has the freshest smelling air in the house because it's constantly filtered XD This is what hospitals do when they quarantine people -- they put you in a negative flow room so any drafts you feel under the door, from the ceiling and windows, microscopic holes in the room, etc are going INTO the room, and exhaust is controlled through some decontamination method (I'm unfamiliar with that part of it). This week was a huge struggle with the clones. Self-inflicted. I was going to keep them in the buckets for a while, but when I watered them mid-diary-week pot A was not draining even though it has some decent drain holes and rocks on the bottom. I tried digging out the sides down to the bottom to try to open it up, I tried mashing on the sides and bottom of the pot to break stuff up... But it just would not stop being a pool of standing water :( So, I had to do an emergency transplant into the new perlite hempy bucket. Now other than a washed out soil/root plug about the size of my fist, I'm hydro in 100% perlite. (Manual Hydro though, I am the pump! :P) Been giving it MaxiGro since, and I think it actually really loves being in the perlite :O After having such success with the transplant for A, I decided to transplant B right after just because. But, I didn't cut one of the LST strings all the way :facepalm: When I went to lift it out I didn't get very far at all and the main stem snapped off, leaving only one fan leaf and some tiny growth! I figured since it has a healthy root system, it'd eventually recover / stabilize. So I did one of those "whistle while sweeping it under the rug" things, and just put it back the way it was. I've noticed a bit of growth today on official end of week clone servicing day, so I went ahead and transplanted B into a hydro bucket too! Gave it 2-7-7 cactus food and a splash of CaliMagic, the higher P and K of the cactus food should help it recover faster (or so I've read). We'll see how this goes moving forward. Even if it's a flop, it'll at least be a learning experience. I've moved plenty of plants from pot to pot, but never from grow medium to grow medium -- which is actually quite stressful and dangerous to the plant if you don't do it perfectly with all the precautions in place (like using gloves so you don't touch the roots!) I'm excited at the prospect of not having to screw around with soil any more. I can just rinse and sterilize (will use steam most likely) the perlite and it's good to go for the next grow! A shout out to someone I met on here that has been patiently answering all my questions regarding the hempy buckets, perlite, hydro nutrients, etc. I don't want to reference them by name because I don't want to risk causing them to receive a flood of questions from a bunch of random people.

It's been an interesting week. I had to ask for help with resolving the intense smell coming from my garden... I can smell it from my driveway at this point.. I was advised that I probably turned my fan up way too high, which overloads the carbon filter on the end of my exhaust. I ordered another new one.. turned it down.. and I also had to cut down the cheese auto... all her trichomes were cloudy bit I definatly could have left her for another week... just couldn't handle the smell lol. Ask for help and you shall receive, thanks Growdiaries. And thank you Oozlefinch for the solid advise.. ✌️ I bought a rosin press this week and it's awesome.. she will be used for this grow as soon as things are ready. I cut out my backyard to plan for round #3 for all these plants.. plus a whole lot more! Process/ Environment changes: -Turned down my exhaust fan.. the carbon filter can't keep up with the amount of air being pushed through it.. in the water industry we would call this 'short circuiting'.... The Gorilla cookies is growing well. It's a tall plant with long nugs ( I hope the full out a lot more). I would recommend supporting the branches at this point in the grow. There's a slight smell coming off her and trichome production was late to start compared to most the other plants I have... I suspect she will go past 90 days unfortunately, but I'm excited to see what the finished product looks like. Hitting her with compost teas at a pH of around 6.7 That's it.. I'm on auto pilot at this point.. there's not much I can do except sit back and wait. Thank you Fastbuds

08/21/24. Going into week 8 flower Day 57 out of stated 64. So one week left exactly. I’m not sure on that. She’s still drinking at the same rate as usual, and there’s still quite a few white hairs. I’ll be looking at her trichomes today anyway, just to see where we’re at. Either way she’s getting just water from here on out. She’s dark af and has some nutrient burn anyway, so I’m sure she’ll be fine. She’s fattened quite a bit more than I expected. Seemed like her buds would be kinda long and skinnier. No complaints here though. She’s getting pretty damn frosty and sticky too. She has a kinda piney sweetish smell. Start the count down ⏰ See yuh ✌️

Week 9 - First Week of Flowering 🌸 The dark period has ended, and these ladies came back into the light fully energized and ready for action! It’s just the first week of flower, and they’re all praying, stretching, and absolutely thriving—filling up every inch of the tent. This grow space is officially packed from wall to wall, with each plant competing for its share of light and showing off some of the biggest, healthiest leaves I’ve seen yet! 🌱 A few strategic plucks here and there have kept airflow smooth and light penetration balanced. Those big leaves? They’re a sign of happy, healthy growth. Large leaves help the plant capture maximum light energy, essential during this stage, especially as they start focusing on developing those flowers. When plants grow huge, vibrant leaves like these, it means they’re well-nourished and content in their environment—a true testament to the well-balanced conditions we’ve got going in the tent! Flowering Parameters 🌡️ Room Environment: • Temperature: 26.7°C • Humidity: 63.3% • CO2: 960 ppm • VPD: 1.29 kPa (prime zone for flowering health!) Lighting: • Light Intensity: 835 PPFD (ideal for boosting flower growth) • Solution: pH 5.96, TDS 460 ppm, temp 21.1°C • Medium: Moisture: 100%, TDS: 520 ppm, Temp: 21.6°C Carbon Filter Installation & Smell Management 🌬️🌱 With the transition to flower, the scent profile is already starting to kick in—crazy for the first week, right? 🌸 To keep everything fresh and under wraps, I’ve set up a carbon filter system. Here’s how it’s working: I’ve connected the filter to my Aerofan, which pulls air directly from the tent. This air is cleaned by the filter and released into the main room, where it then passes through another filter before exiting my space. This dual-filter setup means no scent escapes into the wild, keeping things stealthy and the grow room a peaceful, scent-contained environment. Perfect for anyone concerned about keeping their home free from that telltale aroma! 🕶️🌬️ Enhanced Lighting with Emerson Effect 🌞 This week, I’ve introduced an extra 15 minutes of red light at the beginning and end of each light cycle. Why? Well, this red boost taps into the Emerson effect, enhancing photosynthesis efficiency, especially during the flowering stage. By stimulating a little extra wake-up and wind-down light, we’re mimicking the natural sunrise and sunset experience for these plants, which can help reduce flowering time. Not only does it encourage smoother transitions into day and night, but in theory, it’ll help these ladies finish a bit faster, while giving them a little nudge to build more substantial, quality flowers. 🌇 Nutrient Adjustments 🌱 Now that we’re in flower, I’ve swapped out the Start Booster for P-Boost and TopBooster to specifically support flowering needs. Here’s why: • P-Boost brings in additional phosphorus, vital for energy transfer and cell division as the plant channels more resources into budding sites. • TopBooster supports the flowering phase by improving flower quality and density, helping to build those big, aromatic buds we’re after. These changes bring the nutrient mix in line with what’s most beneficial at this stage. All this precise dialing in is easy to manage thanks to the TrolMaster system. From pH to nutrient scheduling, the TrolMaster ecosystem and ThinkGrow LEDs have been the ultimate teammates in this grow journey, giving me real-time data, fine control, and peace of mind. 💯 (Not introducing UV light just yet, but stay tuned as that’s coming soon for an added boost!) Looking Forward 🌟 Next week, we’ll be upping the reds, giving us an even greater chance of activating those flowering signals for a smoother, faster transition through the cycle. I’ll keep tweaking and fine-tuning every parameter to make sure these ladies get exactly what they need to thrive. Big thanks to the TrolMaster system for keeping everything in balance and optimized, along with the supportive Grow Fam following this journey! Your enthusiasm, advice, and support are a huge part of this grow’s success. Keep following for more updates, and stay tuned for what’s next! 🌿✨ P.S. Deep Dive: TrolMaster’s MBS-S8 CO₂ Sensor & Smoke Detector 🚨 The MBS-S8 CO₂ Sensor from TrolMaster is a powerhouse for growers, especially when it comes to optimizing plant growth and efficiency in a controlled environment. This sensor continuously monitors CO₂ levels and integrates directly with the TrolMaster ecosystem, giving you real-time data on CO₂ concentration. Ideal levels of CO₂ can significantly boost growth and yield during certain stages, so understanding and managing CO₂ is key. With the MBS-S8, I can control CO₂ levels precisely, keeping them within the optimal range for photosynthesis. This sensor is a game-changer because it adjusts CO₂ delivery automatically, giving plants exactly what they need without any extra monitoring from me. Meanwhile, TrolMaster’s Smoke Detector is an essential safety device, especially in spaces with electrical equipment, lights, and heat-generating components. This detector can be set up to alert me instantly via the TrolMaster app if any smoke is detected, allowing me to respond immediately to any potential issues. Fires and smoke are rare in controlled grow setups but having this safety measure provides peace of mind and lets me focus on the plants without constant worry. It’s an incredible tool for any grower prioritizing safety and proactive monitoring. Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

As of day 43 (November 13), the NYC Diesel has stopped stretching and is putting on weight throughout the buds. It is an important time for the plant, as the flowering is going to be critical for quality and yield, but it is also a little boring not having anything to do besides watch, water, and wait. It's doing well with the nutrients so I am upping the phosphorus/potassium it is getting, and I am going to try to slightly lower the cal/mag to help reduce the nitrogen. I am continuing with the Armor Si as an extra potassium boost as well. I try my best not to overfeed, as I find the auto flowers with my lighting setup are sensitive to more agressive feeding schedules. Day 46: did a small defoliation, will probably be the last. Thanks for reading!

Week 6 went pretty well, +30 during the day, +23 at night, a few yellowed leaves, next time I water her I will give her Espom salt so that she absorbs more magnesium, despite the high heat everything else looks good :) good luck to everyone.

The girl seems to be ok. She's going into flowering mode in a few days from now. I let her recover from defolation first.