Nothing to really say this week.

my dry and cure style is this: 4 days of hanging upside down to get water activity lower to around 0.6 in 50% humidity and 26 C temp (i know its a little high but we are in a hot summer right now and i cant get it lower even with air conditioner) and then after 4 days of drying i remove leaves and stalks, trim buds and move them to jar for the rest of their life :D . and in the first 4 days of curing i open the jar door and let hem get some fresh air in the jar for about 5 minutes and close the jar door again, after 4 days of curing like that buds are smokable but they will get better as they getting cured about 1 month. buds are one of the hardest as fucking rocks type of buds! very dense , compact , sticky , smelly , amazing at every aspect growing stage was 60 days and flowering stage was 70 days total (harvested tops at day 63th) the total weight of dry buds was : top buds 174 G + lower buds 55 G = 229 G my overview of strain with details: the seeds: unfortunately i only got 1 seed cracked out of 5 so i will not know how much this genetic can get different but at least i got the chance to grow once of this wonderful strain the plant : in every stage you can ensure that you are dealing with a high level plant , she will get big so you have to control her height LST and SCROG highly recommended , will grow very well with tick stalks and big fan leaves , has good resistance for stress and will respond very well to stress trainings , she really has gorilla power in herself , fresh buds on plant : buds are very compact and dense even from start , fresh blossoms smells like pineapple and mango , 2 different shades of sweet smells like you hold 2 junks of pineapple and mango in your hand and you smell them together, she is a trichome and resin factory , very very sticky , very oily , strong smell dried buds: very compact and dense , hard as rocks , has dark colors with purple hues inside it , it smells sweet smoke : very smooth and sweet like lollipop , pineapple , mango like , after 2 minutes it'll kick in and you'll get higher and higher with every breath , has a strange and especial high mind high mostly

Hola a todo el mundo!!🙌😃. Espero que anden bien amigos!, yo ando con poco tiempo (créeme que me encantaría poder cultivar y vivir de esto😅, pero esta complicado), a lo que este diario se refiere, he trasplantado a una maceta de 10 litros, hice podas y he regado con fertilizantesy agua, con un ph de 6 -6.1, aun no he chequeado drenaje, pero en esta semana lo haré, seguro ya la pase a floracion. Nos vemos la próxima semana! Y si lees esto y no me sigues, en instagram, ayudarías siguiendome( es gratis seguirme😅😉).

03/20/2022 Biscotti Skunk looking lovely first four pictures.next up is lemon OG,followed by the three Grape Skunk girls middle one is my favorite so far (Middle in height) I did a light feeding of fish and seaweed, a little extra something just incase they get hungry in final weeks.

really big buds. love it. my fav

29.11. F28 General Overview • Flower Day 28 marks the end of Week 4, and the grow is still performing exceptionally well. • The canopy is now thick, powerful, and fully developed — the SuperBuffCherry #26 is deep in mid-flower and showing strong bud formation. • The main colas currently range between 80 and 90 cm in height, standing tall and sturdy. ⸻ Canopy Management & Defoliation • Due to the increasing amount of leaf mass and a rise in humidity, airflow became a concern. • To counter this, a second oscillating fan was added inside the tent to improve internal air circulation. • Additionally, a heavy defoliation session was performed to: • Reduce moisture buildup • Increase airflow around bud sites • Lower the risk of mold or mildew • Improve light penetration to lower and mid-level branches • The canopy now breathes much more freely, and the plants responded well to the clean-up. ⸻ Environment • The main issue at the moment is high humidity due to dense foliage, which has now been addressed. • Even with strong ventilation, the environment began showing conditions that could lead to powdery mildew (PM) if left unchecked. • It’s not a confirmed outbreak yet, but the early signs and risk indicators are there. ⸻ Plant Condition • Aside from the mildew risk, the plants themselves are in excellent health: • Strong structure • Zero nutrient issues • Deep green leaves • Great hydration and vigor • Visible flower stacking beginning across all tops • BioTabs continues to deliver consistent, stable feeding without needing adjustments.

Welcome to my Ðivine ØĠ Ķush diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth.🌎 ___________________________ Feeding: Sat 22Jun: 6L water not pH'd Tue 25Jun: 6L water not pH'd Wed 26Jun: 6L nutrients pH'd 6.5 Thu 27Jun: 6L water not pH'd Fri 28Jun: 4L water not pH'd Sun 30Jun: 8L water not pH'd Mon 01Jul: 4L water not pH'd ___________________________ Weather hasn't been that bad, a cloudy day, a fresh day and night then warm, rain Friday afternoon thru Sunday morning then Sunday afternoon 55 KPH wind gusts 💨 Anti-tilting device seem to hold them down for now😄 ___________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

Day 64 🌤️🌥️☁️☁️ 11-19 degrees and the humidity is around 65%. I started into the tenth week with an intense check of the main buds. Some of the trichomes are milky but the most are still clear. Maybe I‘m wrong. Some days ago I could spot some amber trichomes but the flowers expanded and it‘s not possible to find anymore amber ones. Watered 500ml pure rainwater. Day 65 🌤️☁️🌥️☁️ Today Tropicana needs a rest. She just want to sit and do nothing except waiting for sunshine warming her heart. In the evening she asked for water, potting soil lost enough weight. 600ml with 60ml light fermented flower and herb tee. ~100 ml drainage with PH 6,2. In the main flower it was possible to find a small amount of amber trichomes. Day 66 🌤️⛅️🌤️🌤️ 10-21 degrees, humidity 45-65%. This morning I understood, that Tropicana was not thirsty yesterday, she need to breath oxygen with her roots to feel happy. The beautiful smell is way not so intense since last night. I missed the strong smell when I opened the door to our balcony in the early morning. So no watering yesterday would be better. And my banana peel tee is not free of nitrogen, same with the herb and flower tee. Less is more will be written in my diary in the next days (weeks). Watching Trichome TV: I see more amber and I see that she needs more time after all this stress which I made for her. She told me that she is not only sick of water, she told me, that she hate to be moved all the time, too. Every move from A to B she would loose tiny roots and this would stress her a lot. When I checked the moisture I spotted too many of this root fly castings. Their mamas and papas had their orgie about a week ago and now they are eating the mulch layer roots as if there will be no morning. This is not Tropicanas day. But the sun is shining and tomorrow will be another day. Hopefully with a nose full of this tasty fruity and woody citrus smell. Day 67 🌧️☁️☁️☁️ 13-19 degrees, humidity 42-80%. This morning the smell was more intensive like yesterday but still not like before. The leafs show the first signs of fading and I‘m very nervous. This night will fall a lot of rain for several hours. But a part of our balcony is canopied, so Tropicana will be a little bit protected by me this night. I don‘t want to make another mistake, so I use this possibility. Anyway the plants are always wet after a strong rain, it‘s just a little canopy, but not soaked with water. Day 68 🌧️☁️⛅️🌤️ 15-21 degrees and the humidity is 74-85%. Tropicana feels better. The smell this morning was much more intensive then the days before. Day 69 ⛅️🌤️🌥️☁️ 15-22 degrees, humidity 46-89%. Tropicanas flowers are swelling and while she is maturing her smell is getting more intense and complex. Right now mandarin and an earthy woody smell, sometimes even a bit sour like a mixture of pineapple and lime juice. It‘s possible to find new colors in the flowers. There’s purple and pink, orange and ocher brown appeared. Tropicanas main flower looks like the harvest time is near, but the trichomes are still clear and just started to get milky. Anyway she is incredible fast, especially if to remember the extrem conditions with minimal temperature around ten degrees in the early mornings. Day 70 🌧️☁️☁️🌧️ 17-23 degrees, humidity 63-94%. In the next days we will have humid thunderstorm weather. There is even a warning for huge hailstones for tomorrow. So there is a risk of damage and mold because of high humidity. I will have an eye on this. Tropicana looks healthy, so I‘m not worrying too much anymore.

Week 13 (21-4 to 27-4) 21-4 Temps: 19.4 to 24.1 degrees Humidity: 54% to 63% Watering: 1000 ml. 1.6 6.2 22-4 Temps: 20.3 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 51% to 65% Watering: 1000 ml. 0.4 6.2 23-4 Temps: 19.3 to 23.8 degrees Humidity: 50% to 64% Watering: 1000 ml. 1.6 6.2 Light set from 70% to 75% strength. 24-4 Temps: 19.4 to 23.4 degrees Humidity: 51% to 63% 25-4 Temps: 18 to 22.8 degrees Humidity: 52% to 61% Watering: 1000 ml. 0.4 6.2 26-4 Temps: 18.8 to 23.3 degrees Humidity: 49% to 61% Watering: 1000 ml. 1.6 6.2 27-4 Temps: 18.9 to 23.2 degrees Humidity: 47% to 59% Watering: 1000 ml. 0.4 6.2

Another 2 weeks into flower and Candy Cream Go Fast from Kannabia is blowing past all expectations and delivering a very quick (auto like flower period) but with strong female results. The way it's at to maturing these past 2 weeks is amazing. I've not been able to give my plants the greatest of care at the moment. But with Xpert Nutrients and Kannabia it's a combo that is very hard to get wrong. I'm getting a lovely finish (fade) and terpine profiles (smells) are astounding and uber sticky. All these Nutrients above were given separately over a 2 week period with water feeds in between each, 2 master bloom & calmag + Enzymes/root were used often too. Ph to 6.5-7 Ppm for bloom stayed 4-450ppm. Light lollipopping was done last week. Needed to allow air to flow through the un lst'ed branches and too much bud. I wish I'd given my plants more care. But, last 2 months have not been good. Crypto market has me in a real bind atm and having to actually work is killing me. Must be in the 6th week of flowering going into the 7th. Staying on what's above and making sure to keep the soil moist or not let it get to dry is paying off. DISCOUNT CODES 20% OFF KANNABIA & XPERT NUTRIENTS, with code:GGST 20% OFF ZAMNESIA WITH CODE: ZAMMIGROW2024 20% off Oringal Sensible Seeds with code: GGSTGD

We have a super successful young lady. The Sweet Cherry Pie is taking color, is starting, the flowers are still swelling and we look forward to seeing the final form. The top tops are higher but all made a nice bunch flower, the Marshydro care is fitting. We are in flush at pH 6.0 recommended to promote the absorption of all feeding residues. LIGHT >> MARSHYDRO SP3000 AT 100% OF POWER .. TENT >> MARSHYDRO 120x60x180 CHECK IG >> https://www.instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress2/ Buy >> marshydroled.aliexpress.com TENT >> MARSHYDRO 120x60x180 CHECK IG >> https://www.instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress2/ Buy >> marshydroled.aliexpress.com

No complaints yet. She almost double here size from last week.STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT IF ITS A MALE OF FEMALE??? any help would be appreciated

A beautiful orange smell !!! 🍊🍊🍊🍊

D24 - 10/02/2025 Last week was really good, none of the girls showed any signs of toxicity after the full strength feed, which is good. I’m already seeing signs of pre-flowering on some of the girls, next week for sure we enter flower mode. Applied some LST to the girls and some defoliation. Fan leaves were taking a lot of space, now internal nodes should have more light to use. Not going too crazy on this though. Unfortunately snapped a branch of Northern Lights #1 while applying the LST, must take extra care next time. Still haven’t changed the reservoir, should do that later this week. — D27 - 13/02/2025 Changed the reservoir and mixed nutrients for pre-flower. I’ve been adjusting the LST, but other than that there’s not much of an update. Girls are looking really great and growth is exploding. PPFD is around ~500 on canopy level. — D28 - 14/02/2025 Did another defoliation session. Went a bit more heavy this time. Now we let them recover for a few days.

🗓️ 4° WEEK FLO // DAY 22-28 (from switch) // DAY 99-105 (from dry seed) ⚡- Light: 30 cm / 250 watt; ⌛- Schedule: 12/12; 🌡️- 22.5° C - 65% RH average; 📑- PH 5.8 - EC 2.2; 💧- 6° DWC change; 🍔- Flowering blend: tap water EC 0.4 + Silic 0.5 ml/l + CalMag 1 ml/l + Hydro A-B 1.6 ml/l + Oligo Spectrum 2 ml/l + Green Sensation 1 ml/l; 🥅- Still bending the branches trough the ScrOG-net. That was the last week, branches are stiffening; 🌱- I did my best to flat that canopy, next week I'll remove some leaves and some branches.

Day 49 Flip day! Just flipped them to 12/12 took loads of leaves off. Let's see if I've guessed the sex right then 😏 I think I've got 3 fems but people still tell me I want know until I've flipped 🤷‍♂️🏼 Update: Day 50 and day 1 of flower looking very happy will give a nice feed when soil dries out. Lights are now maxed out and on Day 51, day 2 of flower I'm sure all 3 are definitely fems will keep eye on them next few days 👀 Update again: Day 53, Day 4 of flower and they looking beautiful 😍