Just got back from holiday. Few days late on update. watering system wasn’t too shabby as it was a last minute holiday ahaha. 6 days away in Greece. Lovely. 1x Sweet Mandarine Zkittlez 1x Mimosa Bruce Banner Ready for harvest. Been put into two days of darkness!

Was growing great till I got root rot in flowering. By then it was too late and lost most of her potential. Just harvested her. Learned more during this grow about hydro. I still got a ways to go. The New Level Hydro bucket works great. Thank you Spider Farmer, New Level Hydro, and AMS. Once I get the bud processed I will be back for smoke report. I will likely try to grow this again without issues. 🤜🤛🤞 Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. 🍻🌱👍 Happy Growing 🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g www.newlevelhydro.com

Ladies and gentlemen here we are for a few days away from starting our third week of flower and she is now starting to crown and all of her shoots are starting to shoot up towards the light.. from the beginning I've given this plant a complete beating and she's taking it with stride.. as far as the high stress training and low stress training goes that's all over with and we're just going to let her ride out from here on out... I'm not expecting any massive size buds I'm expecting a whole lot of thumb size buds and I'm okay with that... Thank you Weedseedsexpress for the opportunity to showcase your resilient genetics.. hope all is well and happy growing everyone ✌️😎

It’s a nice grow so far in terms of expectations reality on the seed breeders. Great stuff again. I had a real germination nightmare this time around though - lots of strains failing at seedling so the numbers and strains became more 😂. So the tents are mixed up again to auto on one side and photoperiod on the other. In this tent as well as Afghan and a red gorilla - there is sweet zensation , banana krumble and red hot cookies and a peyote skittlez. Water in using ro solely through the grow. There has been one issue. I tried a “pro” substrate from biocanna this time and I have those little fleas. Really annoying and my aphids are late so kind of annoying - takes the pleasure off a bit. Any good organic solutions let me know please on comments

For this grow I've used, For the growth 1 Mars Hydro FC3000 (300 W) 2 fan 15w 1 Mars Hydro 6" Carbon Filter + Extractor 1 120x60x150 tent 1 timer 11l pot 22 Hours On, 4 hours off light For the soil I've used plagron light mix For the Flowering 1 Mars Hydro FC 3000 (300W) 2 fan 15w Mars Hydro 6" Extractor + Filter 1 120X60X150 Tent 1 timer 11l pot 20/24 lamp Plagron batmix for soil After harvest, I've put the stuff in a room with 1 fan 15w

Had someone to come over and fill the tank, you can clearly see the difference in pictures! ahah Things are looking great for sure, can't wait to get back🔥

Last week there was a hurricane coming this way 🤦🤷 so i placed the plant in front of the window but of course 0 sunlight, this means we lost some critical time of the buds getting bigger and fatter, bad luck 😔 i think we are giving this plant 1 more week

Info: Unfortunately, I had to find out that my account is used for fake pages in social media. I am only active here on growdiaries. I am not on facebook instagram twitter etc All accounts except this one are fake. Have fun with the update. Hey everyone 😊. This week has continued to develop great :-). It was poured once with about 200 ml because it is still under the hood with very high humidity that is enough :-). Next week the hood will be opened bit by bit so that it can get used to the surroundings :-). Otherwise the tent was cleaned and the humidifier refilled every day this week. I think I'll repot next week and then start training :-). Until then, I wish you lots of fun with the update. Stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 👍 You can buy this Strain at : https://www.zamnesia.com/de/3271-zamnesia-seeds-blue-dream-feminisiert.html Type: Blue Dream ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blueberry x Haze 20% Indica / 80% Sativa 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

Que pasa familia, vamos con la séptima semana de floración de estas Rainbow Melon feminizadas de fastbuds. Vamos al lío, de las 3 plantas, me quede con 2 por espacio, siempre pongo alguna semilla de más por si no abriese alguna por no perder ese hueco del indoor. También se trasplantaron a su maceta definitiva, en este caso de 7 litros. Tenían algo de shock por el trasplante pero ya fue solucionado. El ph se controla en 6.2 , la temperatura la tenemos entre 20/22 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. Las flores empiezas a formarse y progresan a buen ritmo. Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

todo muy bien! esperando paciente el desarrollo de los cogollos, conociendo y viendo los puntos de maduracion asi como la fertilizacion ajustando a su maximo que creemos posible para incentivar que los cogollos engorden, ahora en adelante les hare segumiento de la grande principalmente, que es la que cumple con la edad del diario, ya que las otras como se explico en un principio venian recien cultivadas por eso tienen un par de semanas de retraso , tambien hay una hermafrodita, que al detectar como comentamos semanas anteriores aplicamos al tecnica vista de un cultivador mexicano, consistia en romper los brotes de machos las pelotas con el fin de que no vuelvan a salir, dejando solo los pelos estigmas de las hermbras, si bien el cogollo queda maltratado, al parecer se detiene el crecimiento, asi que estamos viendo como rinde ese experimento.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Week 6 of this wonderful Bear Candy Auto phocasseeds is the maker love the smell already skunk smell on her while defoliating today did sown new tie downs before it’s to late I like my main head to be tied down more but was late on pulling her so just let it be this run. Temps been great will have to get a tent ac for the spring and summer for sure but for now it’s good temps.

2026-03-13 By the Number of Pictures and videos you can see how amazed iam these ladies are flawless they are going crazy in Budbuilding forming plateaus and peaks and it looks like they just started. A few days ago they got Composttea, and you can see that- the microbiological Life in the Soil was refreshed, and the " engines" are running- producing sexy Buds and keeping the Girls Happy Sonnenerde Bio Hnferde performs like a champ , in combination with the added Biotabs refreshments its just Divine Substrate Experiment Currently testing two different substrates: • Terra Preta (local recycled brand) — the usual "go-to" soil • Sonnenerde Bio Hemp Soil — being tested this grow; will also be recycled and refreshed with Biotabs products afterward So far there is no significant difference between the two substrates, which is a positive result. Switching growing mediums is always a risk, so the outcome is reassuring. Feeding & Maintenance Plan • Refreshing mycorrhiza and microbes with Mycotrex and Bactrex • Applying compost tea to all plants • If any deficiencies appear: top-dress with Silicium Flash • Continuing the "just add water" strategy otherwise Setup & Method The plants are growing in an Autopot system using the Biotabs "just add water" strategy. Setup process: 1. Mix in Startrex 2. Add Silicium Flash 3. Add Biotabs tablets 4. Add Mycotrex 5. Water with Bactrex This turns any soil into a living, active growing medium. Combined with Autopot, it acts as a cheat code for effortless growth — resulting in large, healthy plants with an excellent and flavorful end product.

8/23 - End of Week 3. Going to start some top feeding at like half strength for the Fox Farm Soil schedule in next few days. Drinking well and consistently from the self-watering bases. Bugs seem to be under control but will probably add some bits to the bases to make sure the gnats don't resurface. Stalk is strong and looking good and a good amount of new growth after taking some fan leaves off yesterday to "top". CO2 levels looking a little better, opened another vent in the tent. 8/22 - Adjusted light down to 80% after getting a lux meter and checking the intensity. Soil PH is slighly acidic at 6.1. Got some phUp and phDown but haven't adjusted yet. Trimmed top 4 fan leaves to stall out the top stalk and open up the bottom branches a bit. Added a mushroom exhale bag to increase co2 levels, were sitting around 500 ppm before I added. 8/21 - Still drying out the self-watering base a bit, will add water today. Sides of fabric pot still a bit wet to the touch but I think that's just the active wicking going on. Thought the initial canoe'ing leaves were from overwatering when overfilling the self-watering base but now I think it has more to do w/ some shock from the thrips and 24 hour light, or perhaps a bit of sunburn from being sprayed w/ the neem oil / bug killer. 8/16 - Had to fight off some thrips and still dialing in the tent conditions. Might be a little overwatered currently.

Well, this is week five and these lovely ladies are taking off. The only problems I have had (knock on wood) was the autopots valve sticking and flooding occasionally. I think I have them figured out though. Customer service from them is amazing. I will as always update throughout the week. Take care and happy growing. 🙂

So that was fun, and trouble free! First round with RDWC was a success. Compared to previous grows I barely had to manage them. It probably reduced my time with the plants by 50%. I know I had spacing issues and a lack of light that led to reduced bud density. I’ll be fixing that next grow. I chopped them down last night and they’re drying. 21C and 51%RH. Look for the video at the end of this week for a surprise time lapse! I’ll keep doing them, and they’ll get better each time! Cheers, and see all you again for the final weigh in a week ✌️