Another week down, smooth… mostly. I wasn’t ready for how savage these autos would get. Not “plant problems” just pure speed. One Hyperion got out of hand and is now over 100cm, basically taking up half the tent. Sounds like a win… until you remember there are 3 other plants in here and height is limited. Every time I think she’s done stretching, she’s somehow closer to the light again. Like she’s trying to merge with the fixture. To manage it, I hung a small plastic “shade” right above the tallest top to bring intensity back into a sane range. It was reading around 90k lux at the tip, now it’s closer to 56k in that hot spot. Overall the girls are happy. The one that started flowering first is setting big expectations — the leaves around the buds are already frosting up with trichomes, and I’ve honestly never seen that much this early. Hope she keeps that energy and the others follow. The only “plot twist”: the one still lagging behind is the Ranz. While everyone else is walking into flower, Ranz is still stretching like “nah, I’m good, I’ll clock in later.” Since they all share the same drip system + one reservoir, it slightly annoys the control freak in me I can’t dial the feed perfectly when one plant is on a different chapter than the rest. Fingers crossed she finishes the stretch soon and joins the flower party. Good luck to all growers and see you next week!

Hey, there peeps! Apologies for not updating my diary as I have been quite busy balancing non-plant responsibilities -.-! Anyway, we are now on day 75 since I ordered my equipment and started germinating my seed and day 71 since I placed my seedling in her first Coco pot! She is now a staggering 4 foot 2 - which was overwhelming considering this is my first grow and orginally only cleared out 2/3 of my cuboard but now it uses the whole space but she's coming along so well! I have also added a LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 50W Red COB as I wanted some extra light for the bottom half nuggests. She is very healthy (I assume from the strong healthy roots) and hasnt shown any major defects other then the initial defects i encountered in week 2-3 and slight light burn on the top cola in week 7 which was from the plant growing so quickly and touching the light, but I did then adjust the light within 2-3 hours. What do you guys think and how did she get so tall consdiering she is an auto-flower and the strain is meant to be indica domiant?

Our second Watermelon Candy Automatic, naturally only from Zamnesia, like all the plants I grow, is truly a great result. I'm very disappointed that I broke the main cola during LST when the flower hadn't yet formed, but I'm equally happy I didn't cut the plant as I was about to. In the end, the flowers turned out beautifully, and you can see them clearly. Look at the flowers; they're beautifully plump, full of resin, and with a scent that feels like it's wafting under your nose like a spring breeze. The trichomes are beautiful, and it's a truly stunning plant. Techniques chosen: Here, we were using LST and the main branch broke, so we left a little LST on the remaining branches. We're 100% organic and 1000% Plagron, as always. The soil we chose is the recently launched Plagron Bio LightMix, which will allow us to get started with smoother and more reliable watering, without the sudden changes that liquid fertilizers can cause. A week's worth of soil is enough, so don't overdo it. Choose your preferred style and calculate your results on the website: www.plagron.com Visit the new Growshop area on the Zamnesia website: Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/531-growshop A fantastic strain, not too tall but very bushy! Give it a try! Z - https://www.zamnesia.io/it/7484-zamnesia-watermelon-candy-automatic-semi-seeds.html Z - This feminized strain boasts everything you've come to know and love about the original cultivar, but with a few welcome improvements. Combining Watermelon x Candy Kush with a pinch of ruderalis genetics results in a strain you won't want to miss, we promise. Being an autoflowering strain, the growing options are practically endless. So, whether you choose to grow it indoors or outdoors, one thing is certain: it will be extremely easy to grow. Otherwise, it will take care of itself without requiring any special care. With a little general care and pruning, you can control its growth all the way to harvest. It's perfect for beginners growing indoors, as well as more experienced growers looking for easy-to-grow, high-yielding plants. Although it's not a particularly tall plant, its size can be easily controlled with LST, to which it responds positively. So, if you're interested in experimenting with this technique, don't be afraid to give Watermelon Candy Auto a try. In just 9-10 weeks from seed to harvest, this strain grows rapidly and, just like the original, will display a bushy canopy completely covered in large buds. Regardless of your growing environment, you can expect impressive yields. Indoor plants produce 350-400 g/m², while plants left to flower outdoors produce 50-100 g/plant. These are quite substantial yields for an autoflowering strain. With a THC level of 20%, Watermelon Candy Auto is a 50/50 sativa/indica hybrid, offering users the best of both worlds. After a few tokes, you'll feel more optimistic, and even the most stoic smokers won't be able to suppress a smile. After a few minutes, a deep sense of relaxation will take over, perfect for welcoming you home after a long day. Overall, Watermelon Candy Auto builds on the qualities that made the original so popular, but it also has other qualities that make it a much simpler and more practical option. You know it, but I recommend it. You'll find so much beauty here, essentially "the best that nature has to offer." Z - www.zamnesia.com Music // www.radionula.com + Feng Shui Music + Frequency 432Hz

Introducing Comeback Kush #71. harvest day is the 25th of December.

She seems to be doing a lot better since the foliar spray last week. Leaves are a dark green now and the stalks are more malleable due to the silica. Did another Silica foliar spray this week as well. 12 gal of water and it is supposed to rain on them today. Fingers crossed!

Buena semana para todos!! Esta planta también surgió de un esqueje que intercambié. Al momento de recibirlo tenia 1 mes de vida y lo pasé a una maceta "Air Pots" de 10L. Tuvo 40 días de vegetación en esta maceta, se le hizo podas apicales y Supercrooping para regular su altura. Al día de la fecha (29/5) lleva 17 días florando. Está hermosa. Calculo que en 3 semanas más estará para corte. Saludos y buenos humos.

15/05/2020 Se realizan los transplantes de los esquejes a macetas de tela de 11 litros (quedaran 2 por transplantaren la proxima semana (zkittlez i Ozk)) Se mezcla el Supersoil anteriormente activado con el sustrato a utilizar Se añade azos y mykos en el cepellon y en el agujero de la tierra donde ira el esqueje Se riegan con mammoth y bud candy Se sacan al exterior sin que les de el sol directo durante unos dias hasta que cojan un poco de fuerza

Last week and flushing time using flawless finish from an and flushing with proper ph water 6 h later after applying the product . Can’t be more happy, plant Gad respond really well to all the stages and it’s as expected, and ve say the buds luckily got bigger than expected and the smell is brilliant. Definately I’ll grow it again 😊

Mar 24: Watering till runoff now... runoff ppm was 2500+... Will be using very mild nutes to flush over 1 - 3 feeds... or until I am near my input. Mar 26: Continuing to use 650ppm feed with bloom focus, 2L per plant gives 15% runoff... Runoff ppm is still very high... I wanted to check pH of runoff but the color is so vibrant i cant use the pH drops to view color, need to get a pH probe. Plants are thriving, no issues at all. the extra fan fixed the post-water droop. One plant is bushy and has the most bud sites, One is the smallest but has the most uniform structure, this one has the biggest buds and thickest stalk, One is about in the middle of the 2. Mar 29: one of these girls gets droopy early when its time for water, thought the canopy was too high so i tied down some more, no cigar... gonna try increasing calmag, if that doesent work im going to reposition in the grow box to a side instead of middle, may not need the upper end ppfd...

Hi everyone :-) She grows beautifully :-) This week she was given Canna Bio Vega for the first time :-). This week I will start topping, next week with LST :-) I wish you all a nice week, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 👍

Week 11 , pH Perfect Connoisseur Bloom Part A ( 1 ml/L ) pH Perfect Connoisseur Bloom Part B ( 1 ml/L ) CarboLoad Liquid ( 2 ml/L ) Sensi Cal-Mag Xtra ( 2 ml/L ) Sensizym ( 2 ml/L ) Bio-Heaven ( 2 ml/L ) Overdrive ( 2 ml/L) Nirvana (2 ml/L)

Smell is outrageous , nuggs are rock hard and chunky

buds starting to get shape and trichs coming in nice. the blueberry muffin has such a unique berry pastry smell. no dank weed smell at all. the khalifa mintz x (bcc x jealousy) is still pretty gassy, with stronger fruit profiles on both strains now that the buds are starting to get fuller. update in a bother 2-3 weeks lol.

the weather is really great. she's not growing any taller. the buds are getting fatter though. she's changed to her autumnal colours in the last week. the smell is getting more intense, like lemon. she looks beautiful.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

Hola A todos la verdad el tiempo no me da mucho para estar haciendo un seguimiento continuo pero de todas formas acá estamos ya van cuatro semana y la plantica ya fue trasplantada a su maseta de 25L. hasta Ahora esperando unas semanitas mas para comenzar con el proceso de scrog. Saludos.!!

1 down 1 To go 497g wet ;)))))

Week 5 flowering Now the swelling begins

SUNDAY 4/28: She's still my garden star.😍 I plucked off some dead leaves and did some leaf-tucking. She's trying to take over the garden..branches everywhere it seems. Daytime temps are still hovering around 87-90f, but I've got her sitting in 70-72f temps for 6 hours of darkness now.😁 I did a little video today and I'll take a few "glamour shots" tomorrow. MONDAY: I watered her with about 1/2 gallon of properly ph'd water including calimagic, boomerang, bud candy, terpinator, and her last dose of beastie bloomz. She'll get Cha Ching from here on out- TUESDAY: Not much time for gardening today. I changed out the carbon filters and did some cleaning. WEDNESDAY: I plucked some dead leaves and took photos today- She's a beaut😍 I have some sort of contagion in the big tent..leaves suddenly getting brown and crispy overnight on a few plants...she's still not been affected...fingers crossed... THURSDAY: The 'contagion' seems to be spreading through the garden...but she's still okay.. I'm thinking maybe I completely PHuktup the ph when I added silica last time and didn't correct it?? FRIDAY: I plucked some dead leaves and misted everybody with perfectly PH adjusted spring water and increased airflow in the tent. Also decreased the dehumidifier to 45% RH. SATURDAY: I fed her today and started her on Cha Ching.