Good evening and welcome back, fantastic friends of the old Weed! Sharing my growth with you is always a pleasure! These sensual -looking beauties begin to have a really nice perfume .... I think we will begin to irrigate with only water from now! see you around

All healthy very good progress very impressed with this seed

Week 15 still white pistils some turn brown cant wait to cut it down Fed ripen for 2 days now

Did a little HST and filmed some Blurple Tent Action for my boy Ferenchy.

Something wrong happened on the end of last week. I had a little irrigation problem and I did a m mistake with the fan’s position, it was too direct on the roots. I think this could have caused a block to the nutrients transmission. I will give just water with regulator ed enzym+. Let’ a see

So guys, one of my 4x4 tents 3 of the plants have been harvested so the Wedding Cake have been relocated for their final week as I am starting a new grow. Very exciting, can't wait to share with the rest of the gang. Bang Bang

Sorry for delay in updates, its busy season here 🕺 The goal for this grow is 10g for each clone 💪 AN sensi feed with all the booster is need In the video other skunk clones in nft grow and you can see Mommy start Bloom

Aug 9: defoliated again to remove lower branches and shaded fan leaves that can prevent air circulation. She is doing great with the buds thickening fast. Starting to get smelly too. Got the UV lights out today. This helps Edmonton in August or September be more like California in June or July. Maybe not that effective but that’s the idea. Second year using the UV lights and worked great last year. Aug 10: UV lights going again today.

I'm impressed with this C4 Auto, from fastbuds this is one of two plants I grew. This plant is a real indoor plant she grows lovely. The other plant is an outdoor plant it's pretty too don't get me wrong but where i thought the outdoors would produce a bigger plant i got the opposite of that, I got a Mutated plant, nice colored bud on here but she continues to mutate even in flowering stage my indoor plant is twice her height and size but love both my C4 Auto from fastbuds. Even if they broke my heart by changing payment policy, I'll never be able to get seeds from fastbuds again so I decided to spray my runt on the outdoors with tiresias mist feminized seed spray..... hopefully I get some pollen and able to pollinate my indoor C4 Auto..

Que pasa familia, vamos con la séptima semana de floración de estas Mandarin Panties feminizadas de Seedstockers. Vamos al lío, las plantas se trasplantaron a macetas de 7 litros. El ph se controla en 6.5, la temperatura la tenemos entre 24/21 grados y la humedad ronda el 50%. El ciclo de crecimiento puse 12h de luz, el foco está al 100% de potencia. Tenemos como visitante de nuevo los trips, compré depredadores que colocaré a principios de semana. Me gustaría estar más encima este cultivo pero la salud me está impidiendo un poco estar 100% con el proyecto. - os dejo por aquí un CÓDIGO: Eldruida Descuento para la tienda de MARS HYDRO. https://www.mars-hydro.com Hasta aquí todo, Buenos humos 💨💨💨

1/30/21Saturday morning had me lounging, watering, pruning and a photo shoot. I am hoping for a quick recovery from the middle plant after some pruning was done. I was hoping it would stretch one last time so I could move the light but I am parked there for the time. ENJOY YOUR WEEKEND! 1/31/21Yesterday’s work paid off and the plants look a bit more on the dank side today. Today’s feeding day which mean the last for week 11. Happy Growing

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Umstände.

5/25 Some pics may be repeated because I forgot to add a new week. Waited until about 11 to bring the girls outside. They were definately dry on top so I used the rest of the gallon to water them. When going outside I noticed a specific kush plant that's lighter than the rest. I really need to up my water volume on these big plants. They are also getting close to not liking it in the 1 gal. and are ready for a transplant. I cleaned the cage so as soon as the weather permits these girls will be outside in the direct sunlight. Basking in the sun in the cage to finish hardening before going into their final homes which will be 20-30 gal smart pots and a 50 gal grow pot. Well SOME of them are ready for transplant. The link kush seems to take its time but it looks extremely indica-E. Weather looks like it will be amazing this week so I'm obviously stoked. Wouldn't suprise me if these girls were outdoors be the end of the week! EDIT: THE GIRLS STAYED OUT FOR 3.5 HOURS AND LOOKED FANTASTIC. TUEY GOT SOME INTENSE SUN, EXPOSIRE TO THE HIGH RH AND A LITTLE EXPISURE TO THE HIGH WINDS. SPECIAL KUSH SEEMS TO BE THRIVING. I THINK IT WILL DO WELL IN THIS CLIMATE. THAT ONE MK ULTRA IS GROWING AT A RIDICULOUS RATE. I WATERED THE PIBK KUSH THAT WAS LIGHT. I CANT WAIT FOR THE UPCOMING WEATHER. I CAN EXPOSE THE PLANTS TO SOME DIRECT SUNLIGHT AND SEE HOW THEY HANDLE IT. I CAN ALSO GET THE GROW BAGS READY WITH SOIL MOXED AND THEM IN THE RIGHT LOCATION THE DAY BEFORE THE TRWNSPLANT TO FINAL HOME BUT IM GETTING AHEAD OF MYSELF. IM HAPPY THUS FAR. I also added another half hour of darkness so the plants will be closer to actual daylight times. They're down to 16.5. I'd like to have them lower by now but it is what it is. If some reveg I'll deal with it. 5/26 Plants seem to grow an inch I'm a day. MOST are getting to the point where they want to stretch their feet out. Good thing they'll be going in their final homes as soon as they are hardened off completely. I brought them out around 8 this morning. I have to be back at noon but I'm uncertain if leaving them out that long is a good idea. I'll probably have to check them in an hour or so. They're in the lean-to but THAT gets direct sun until the sun rises high enough in the sky to block it. I put them in here rather than the cage so they can build a tolerance to these harsh winds. Topsoil was dry as fuck. I watered everything. I focused on those that SEEMED the lightest and the largest plants. That MK Ultra plant I fimmed is going to be MASSIVE. I'll update what I do as I do it. Oh I also cleaned the bags twice and they are hanging inside the cage with the direct uv rays hitting any part that's discolored. I MIGHT do one more cleaning but I doubt it. Twice is enough. Technically three times but still. I want things to go right. It looks like I've got some pretty good phenos. EDIT: I PULLED IN (BLOCKING VIEW FROM PART OF THE DRIVEWAY OFF) BECAUSE THAT WAS CLOSER TO MY PLANTS. I GET OUT AND START ADMIRING MY PLANTS AND LOOK ACROSS THE STREET TO SEE TWO STATE TROOPERS AND SOME DETECTIVE ACROSS THE STREET. DAD SAID AN AMBULANCE CAME BUT LEFT WITH NO LIGHTS ON. THEY WERE TALKIMG TO THE COUPLE SEPERATELY. I ATE LUNCH AND THEY WERE STILL THERE. MY HOT WIFE WENT OUT AND THE ALL STARTED FUCKING RUBBER NECKING. MEANWHILE I BROUGHT THE PLANTS INSIDE WITH THE SMALL COVER MY S.U.V PROVIDES LOL. PLANTS WERE LEFT IN DIRECT LIGHT UNTIL IT ROSE HIGH ENOUGH TO CUT IT OFF TO THE LEAN TO. PLANTS SEEM LIGHT. WELL SOME DO. I NEED TO GET A GOOD WATERING SCHEDULE DOWN. JUDGING BY HOW THESE PLANTS TOOK IT TODAY I THINK THEYLL BE OUTSIDE IN FOREVER HOMES WITHIN A WEEK. 5/27 Just poked my head in and checked on them real quick. NO damage whatsoever from all that time in the sun. I left them inside this morning so I can bring them out later in the day to see what happens. I'll add pics later and update what I do. EDIT: BROUGHT THE PLANTS OUT TO THE CAGE AT A LITTLE BEFORE 10AM AND LET THEM BASK IN THE 85° SUN. THE WIND WAS A LITTLE ROUGH ON THEM. IT WAS ACTUALLY THRASHING THEM BUT MY INTUITION SAID 'LEAVE THEM BE' SO I DID. I DID MORE CLEANING AND FIGURED OUT SPACING IN THE CAGE AND I MIXED A 30GAL GROW BAG AND 2 20GAL GROW BAGS WITH A 50/50 MIX OF FOX FARM OCEAN FOREST AND HAPPY FROG. SOUL WAS MIXED WITH A GRADE STAKE AFTER BEING PUT IN A GALLON AT A TIME (TO ENSURE EQUAL PARTS) AND FINALLY MISED BY HAND. TAKES A LOT OF WORK. IM NOT GOING TO BE AS PICKING WITH THE OTHER ONES. I STILL HAVE MY 50 WITH SOIL IN IT. MAINLY DUE TO LAZINESS AND THE PAIN IN THE ASS IT IS TO MOCE THE FUCKER. PLUS IF IM LOW ON SOIL (WHICH IM NOT) THAT WAS GOOD SOIL AND THE PLANT HAD NO PROBLEMS SO I GUESS IF NEEDED IT FOULD BE REUSED. I NORMALLY JUST EMPTY THAT FIRST AND MIX A SHIT TON OF SOIL IN THERE AND SHOVEL IT IN THE BAGS. THIS WAS MUCH HARDER. PLANTS GOT CLOSER TO 2 HOURS OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT BEFORE I MOVED THEM TO THE LEAN TO. I WILL UPDATE WHEN I HRING THEN IN BUT DESPITE THE HARSH SUN AND WIND THEY SEEM FINE. EDIT: BROUGHT THE GIRLS IN AT TWO BECAUSE MY WIFE HAD AN APPOINTMENT. NO DAMAGE WHATSOEVER. I THINK IF I USE THIS WEEK TO INCREASE DAYLIGHT HOURS AND UP THE WATERING THESE PLANTS WILL BE READY TO GO IN THEIR HOMES. A FEW ARE BIG AND DEF READY TO STRETCH THEIR FEET. 5/28 With the increased sun some these plants are out growing their containers. PLANTS SPENT APPROX AN HOUR AND A HALF IN DIRECT 85° SUN. EVERYTHING SEEMED FINE AND I WAS GOING TO LEAVE THEM FOR THE DAY IN THE CAGE. THEN I NOTICED THE BIG MK ULTRA'S MAIN STEM (IT GOT FIMMED BUT THE MAIN ONE) WAS STARTING TO DROOP A LITTLE. I PICKED THE PIT UP AND DESPITE A LITTLE BIT OF MOUSTURE ON THE TOP THE PIY WAS LIGHT AS A FEATHER. PLUS SETTING ON THE THEM ON THE TAR WASN'T THE BEST IDEA EITHER. I MISED UP SOME WATER AND WATERED THE PLANTS THAT SEEMED LIGHT. I NEED TO PICK UP LIKE ONE MORE BAG OF OCEAN FOREST FOR MY 50 GAL. I'M GOING TO TRY TO FINISH MY OTHER TWO 20'S AND THE TWO 10'S TONIGHT SO I'LL KNOW WHAT IM LACKING. ITS BASICALLY JUST THE 50. IF MY INTUITION SAYS ITS OK ILL TALE THE "COOLER" DAY TOMORROW AND TRANSPLANT THE THREE PLANTS TGAT ARE GETTING TO BIG FOR THERE POT. ÌF NEEDED I MIGHT GET SOME SCREENS TO USE AS A "BLIND" SO THE PLANTS DONT GO STRAIGHT TO FULL SUN ALL DAY. EDIT: TJAT HUGE MK ULTRA REVOVETED NOCELY ONCE WATERED AND PUT IN THE SHADE. IT NEEDS TO BE TRANSPLANTED. I MAY DO ITCTOMORROW. PLANTS HAVE GOT TO BE CLOSE TO HARDENED. I MIXED ALL MY SOIL AND FILLED ALL THE GROW BAGS WITH THE MIX. I FINISHED CLEANING THE CAGE AND REMOVED BAMBOO AND TRELLISING. TOMORROW IS GOING TO BE A MILD DAY AND PERFECT FOR TRANSPLANT. SOME OF THESE GIRLS ARE GETTING VERY BIG. I RAN OUT OF SOIL AFTER THE LAST 10GAL GROW BAG. ITS NOT FILLED "ALL" THE WAY AND I GAVENT FILLED MY 50 GAL. I'LL GET THE REST OF THE SOIL I NEED FOR THAT 50 TOMORROW.

Every plant in garden day 56 Noticed yellowing mid week 7 don’t think it fade having some ph issues my run off is 7.2 after flush then watered again still up at 7 so hopefully going to water at like 6 6.1 from now till it goes down growth continues tho some buds getting big ☺️

Hey now, hope everyone has been well. Super excited football season is finally here so things are about to get busy. I went out of town for 4 days and the plants struggled a little bit with the PH getting slightly too high before I returned. I also came back to see that some type of insect was munching away on the lower leaves of my Sundae Driver which I sprayed the plant and coco with neem oil, but hopefully they didnt do much damage before I can get them under control I have never experienced insect problems indoors, likely because I grow in Coco and not Soil. However, I left a 5 gallon airpot full of coco from a previous grow outside for a couple weeks by mistake, and pretty sure bugs got into. I wont make that rookie mistake again. Anyways the rest of the ladies are looking pretty good, They are almost getting what I consider a full dose of nutrients, even though it half of the manufacturers recommended dosage. I am feeding all Gen Hydro cal mag, Armor Si, and maxi grow. I also add some food grade hydrogen peroxide to keep the reservoir fresh for around 10 days or so but I clean it once a week. I did get all the ladies transplanted from solo cups to airpots on day 16, and it took 24 hours or so for them to recover from the transplant and start growing again. I am running 3 of the 3.4 gallon, and 2 of the 5.4 gallon just because that is what I had available. I hopefully top them all sometime this week for the first time, as soon as the roots are a little stronger. I let them grow to 7 nodes or so before I top them and make sure they're growing fast. Hopefully I can still mainline the Sundae Driver, she looks healthy other than those two leaves chomped off. All the plants are on their 5th nodes, except for the Green Crack 2.0 which is only on her 4th node. We got another heat wave coming through my region that I am not too excited about but at least its earlly in the game and I dont need to crank this light up yet. I am only running it at 30% and its putting off plenty to keep this ladies happy. Hoping to get a topping done this week, then another one next week, and be ready to flip to flower by week 7 or so. Thanks for stopping by, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!! 💪 Website: https://medicgrow.com/ https://growdiaries.com/grower/medicgrowled

First week of flower out the way and nice bit of growth over the past week all seem to be doing ok will leave them be and feed when needed then day 21 of flower will give them a good defoliation

Yellow butterfly came to see me the other day; that was nice. Starting to show signs of stress on the odd leaf, localized isolated blips, blemishes, who said growing up was going to be easy! Smaller leaves have less surface area for stomata to occupy, so the stomata are packed more densely to maintain adequate gas exchange. Smaller leaves might have higher stomatal density to compensate for their smaller size, potentially maximizing carbon uptake and minimizing water loss. Environmental conditions like light intensity and water availability can influence stomatal density, and these factors can affect leaf size as well. Leaf development involves cell division and expansion, and stomatal differentiation is sensitive to these processes. In essence, the smaller leaf size can lead to a higher stomatal density due to the constraints of available space and the need to optimize gas exchange for photosynthesis and transpiration. In the long term, UV-B radiation can lead to more complex changes in stomatal morphology, including effects on both stomatal density and size, potentially impacting carbon sequestration and water use. In essence, UV-B can be a double-edged sword for stomata: It can induce stomatal closure and potentially reduce stomatal size, but it may also trigger an increase in stomatal density as a compensatory mechanism. It is generally more efficient for gas exchange to have smaller leaves with a higher stomatal density, rather than large leaves with lower stomatal density. This is because smaller stomata can facilitate faster gas exchange due to shorter diffusion pathways, even though they may have the same total pore area as fewer, larger stomata. Leaf size tends to decrease in colder climates to reduce heat loss, while larger leaves are more common in warmer, humid environments. Plants in arid regions often develop smaller leaves with a thicker cuticle and/or hairs to minimize water loss through transpiration. Conversely, plants in wet environments may have larger leaves and drip tips to facilitate water runoff. Leaf size and shape can vary based on light availability. For example, leaves in shaded areas may be larger and thinner to maximize light absorption. Leaf mass per area (LMA) can be higher in stressful environments with limited nutrients, indicating a greater investment in structural components for protection and critical resource conservation. Wind speed, humidity, and soil conditions can also influence leaf morphology, leading to variations in leaf shape, size, and surface characteristics. Small leaves: Reduce water loss in arid or cold climates. Environmental conditions significantly affect gene expression in plants. Plants are sessile organisms, meaning they cannot move to escape unfavorable conditions, so they rely on gene expression to adapt to their surroundings. Environmental factors like light, temperature, water, and nutrient availability can trigger changes in gene expression, allowing plants to respond to and survive in diverse environments. Depending on the environment a young seedling encounters, the developmental program following seed germination could be skotomorphogenesis in the dark or photomorphogenesis in the light. Light signals are interpreted by a repertoire of photoreceptors followed by sophisticated gene expression networks, eventually resulting in developmental changes. The expression and functions of photoreceptors and key signaling molecules are highly coordinated and regulated at multiple levels of the central dogma in molecular biology. Light activates gene expression through the actions of positive transcriptional regulators and the relaxation of chromatin by histone acetylation. Small regulatory RNAs help attenuate the expression of light-responsive genes. Alternative splicing, protein phosphorylation/dephosphorylation, the formation of diverse transcriptional complexes, and selective protein degradation all contribute to proteome diversity and change the functions of individual proteins. Photomorphogenesis, the light-driven developmental changes in plants, significantly impacts gene expression. It involves a cascade of events where light signals, perceived by photoreceptors, trigger changes in gene expression patterns, ultimately leading to the development of a plant in response to its light environment. Genes are expressed, not dictated! While having the potential to encode proteins, genes are not automatically and constantly active. Instead, their expression (the process of turning them into proteins) is carefully regulated by the cell, responding to internal and external signals. This means that genes can be "turned on" or "turned off," and the level of expression can be adjusted, depending on the cell's needs and the surrounding environment. In plants, genes are not simply "on" or "off" but rather their expression is carefully regulated based on various factors, including the cell type, developmental stage, and environmental conditions. This means that while all cells in a plant contain the same genetic information (the same genes), different cells will express different subsets of those genes at different times. This regulation is crucial for the proper functioning and development of the plant. When a green plant is exposed to red light, much of the red light is absorbed, but some is also reflected back. The reflected red light, along with any blue light reflected from other parts of the plant, can be perceived by our eyes as purple. Carotenoids absorb light in blue-green region of the visible spectrum, complementing chlorophyll's absorption in the red region. They safeguard the photosynthetic machinery from excessive light by activating singlet oxygen, an oxidant formed during photosynthesis. Carotenoids also quench triplet chlorophyll, which can negatively affect photosynthesis, and scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) that can damage cellular proteins. Additionally, carotenoid derivatives signal plant development and responses to environmental cues. They serve as precursors for the biosynthesis of phytohormones such as abscisic acid () and strigolactones (SLs). These pigments are responsible for the orange, red, and yellow hues of fruits and vegetables, while acting as free scavengers to protect plants during photosynthesis. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is an electronically excited state of molecular oxygen (O₂). Singlet oxygen is produced as a byproduct during photosynthesis, primarily within the photosystem II (PSII) reaction center and light-harvesting antenna complex. This occurs when excess energy from excited chlorophyll molecules is transferred to molecular oxygen. While singlet oxygen can cause oxidative damage, plants have mechanisms to manage its production and mitigate its harmful effects. Singlet oxygen (¹O₂) is considered a reactive oxygen species (ROS). It's a form of oxygen with higher energy and reactivity compared to the more common triplet oxygen found in its ground state. Singlet oxygen is generated both in biological systems, such as during photosynthesis in plants, and in cellular processes, and through chemical and photochemical reactions. While singlet oxygen is a ROS, it's important to note that it differs from other ROS like superoxide (O₂⁻), hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), and hydroxyl radicals (OH) in its formation, reactivity, and specific biological roles. Non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) protects plants from damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) by dissipating excess light energy as heat. This process reduces the overexcitation of photosynthetic pigments, which can lead to the production of ROS, thus mitigating the potential for photodamage. Zeaxanthin, a carotenoid pigment, plays a crucial role in photoprotection in plants by both enhancing non-photochemical quenching (NPQ) and scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS). In high-light conditions, zeaxanthin is synthesized from violaxanthin through the xanthophyll cycle, and this zeaxanthin then facilitates heat dissipation of excess light energy (NPQ) and quenches harmful ROS. The Issue of Singlet Oxygen!! ROS Formation: Blue light, with its higher energy photons, can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), including singlet oxygen, within the plant. Potential Damage: High levels of ROS can damage cellular components, including proteins, lipids, and DNA, potentially impacting plant health and productivity. Balancing Act: A balanced spectrum of light, including both blue and red light, is crucial for mitigating the harmful effects of excessive blue light and promoting optimal plant growth and stress tolerance. The Importance of Red Light: Red light (especially far-red) can help to mitigate the negative effects of excessive blue light by: Balancing the Photoreceptor Response: Red light can influence the activity of photoreceptors like phytochrome, which are involved in regulating plant responses to different light wavelengths. Enhancing Antioxidant Production: Red and blue light can stimulate the production of antioxidants, which help to neutralize ROS and protect the plant from oxidative damage. Optimizing Photosynthesis: Red light is efficiently used in photosynthesis, and its combination with blue light can lead to increased photosynthetic efficiency and biomass production. In controlled environments like greenhouses and vertical farms, optimizing the ratio of blue and red light is a key strategy for promoting healthy plant growth and yield. Understanding the interplay between blue light signaling, ROS production, and antioxidant defense mechanisms can inform breeding programs and biotechnological interventions aimed at improving plant stress resistance. In summary, while blue light is essential for plant development and photosynthesis, it's crucial to balance it with other light wavelengths, particularly red light, to prevent excessive ROS formation and promote overall plant health. Oxidative damage in plants occurs when there's an imbalance between the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the plant's ability to neutralize them, leading to cellular damage. This imbalance, known as oxidative stress, can result from various environmental stressors, affecting plant growth, development, and overall productivity. Causes of Oxidative Damage: Abiotic stresses: These include extreme temperatures (heat and cold), drought, salinity, heavy metal toxicity, and excessive light. Biotic stresses: Pathogen attacks and insect infestations can also trigger oxidative stress. Metabolic processes: Normal cellular activities, particularly in chloroplasts, mitochondria, and peroxisomes, can generate ROS as byproducts. Certain chlorophyll biosynthesis intermediates can produce singlet oxygen (1O2), a potent ROS, leading to oxidative damage. ROS can damage lipids (lipid peroxidation), proteins, carbohydrates, and nucleic acids (DNA). Oxidative stress can compromise the integrity of cell membranes, affecting their function and permeability. Oxidative damage can interfere with essential cellular functions, including photosynthesis, respiration, and signal transduction. In severe cases, oxidative stress can trigger programmed cell death (apoptosis). Oxidative damage can lead to stunted growth, reduced biomass, and lower crop yields. Plants have evolved intricate antioxidant defense systems to counteract oxidative stress. These include: Enzymes like superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and various peroxidases scavenge ROS and neutralize their damaging effects. Antioxidant molecules like glutathione, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), C60 fullerene, and carotenoids directly neutralize ROS. Developing plant varieties with gene expression focused on enhanced antioxidant capacity and stress tolerance is crucial. Optimizing irrigation, fertilization, and other management practices can help minimize stress and oxidative damage. Applying antioxidant compounds or elicitors can help plants cope with oxidative stress. Introducing genes for enhanced antioxidant enzymes or stress-related proteins over generations. Phytohormones, also known as plant hormones, are a group of naturally occurring organic compounds that regulate plant growth, development, and various physiological processes. The five major classes of phytohormones are: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, ethylene, and abscisic acid. In addition to these, other phytohormones like brassinosteroids, jasmonates, and salicylates also play significant roles. Here's a breakdown of the key phytohormones: Auxins: Primarily involved in cell elongation, root initiation, and apical dominance. Gibberellins: Promote stem elongation, seed germination, and flowering. Cytokinins: Stimulate cell division and differentiation, and delay leaf senescence. Ethylene: Regulates fruit ripening, leaf abscission, and senescence. Abscisic acid (ABA): Plays a role in seed dormancy, stomatal closure, and stress responses. Brassinosteroids: Involved in cell elongation, division, and stress responses. Jasmonates: Regulate plant defense against pathogens and herbivores, as well as other processes. Salicylic acid: Plays a role in plant defense against pathogens. 1. Red and Far-Red Light (Phytochromes): Red light: Primarily activates the phytochrome system, converting it to its active form (Pfr), which promotes processes like stem elongation and flowering. Far-red light: Inhibits the phytochrome system by converting the active Pfr form back to the inactive Pr form. This can trigger shade avoidance responses and inhibit germination. Phytohormones: Red and far-red light regulate phytohormones like auxin and gibberellins, which are involved in stem elongation and other growth processes. 2. Blue Light (Cryptochromes and Phototropins): Blue light: Activates cryptochromes and phototropins, which are involved in various processes like stomatal opening, seedling de-etiolation, and phototropism (growth towards light). Phytohormones: Blue light affects auxin levels, influencing stem growth, and also impacts other phytohormones involved in these processes. Example: Blue light can promote vegetative growth and can interact with red light to promote flowering. 3. UV-B Light (UV-B Receptors): UV-B light: Perceived by UVR8 receptors, it can affect plant growth and development and has roles in stress responses, like UV protection. Phytohormones: UV-B light can influence phytohormones involved in stress responses, potentially affecting growth and development. 4. Other Colors: Green light: Plants are generally less sensitive to green light, as chlorophyll reflects it. Other wavelengths: While less studied, other wavelengths can also influence plant growth and development through interactions with different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Key Points: Cross-Signaling: Plants often experience a mix of light wavelengths, leading to complex interactions between different photoreceptors and phytohormones. Species Variability: The precise effects of light color on phytohormones can vary between different plant species. Hormonal Interactions: Phytohormones don't act in isolation; their interactions and interplay with other phytohormones and environmental signals are critical for plant responses. The spectral ratio of light (the composition of different colors of light) significantly influences a plant's hormonal balance. Different wavelengths of light are perceived by specific photoreceptors in plants, which in turn regulate the production and activity of various plant hormones (phytohormones). These hormones then control a wide range of developmental processes.

Looking like i have a magnesium deficiency as show in the leaf pic. I'm Gonna increase the cal-mag. Day 37 : Pots were dry so fed 2.5 liners to the 5 gallon pot and 1.5 liters to the 3 gallon. Upped the cal-mag. Introduced Big Bud & PK Boost

Hey everyone 😃. Day 14 since time change to 12/12. During the week they started to form their buds, which is why I will add 2 g of GHSC Powder Feeding Bio Bloom per liter of substrate over the next few days 😃👍. The next few days I will also make some free space so that the energy doesn't end up in mini buds :-). I wish you all a lot of fun with the update and a great week 🍀👌 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/sweet-skunk-f1-fast-version/ Type: Sweet Skunk F1 Fast Version ☝️🏼 Genetics: Sweet Skunk Auto (SWS34) X Early Skunk 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .