Another awesome week of veg and this lady's looking healthy

Ich habe die Pflanzen mit Topf in die vorbereiteten Töpfe ausgebracht, indem ich eine kleine Kuhle gegraben habe, in die ich die kleinen Töpfe gelegt habe, sodass die Pflanzen näher am Licht sind und weniger mit den Nebenpflanzen konkurrieren. Auf den großen Behältern habe ich präventiv Florfliegen als Nützlinge und Hanfstreu als Mulch ausgebracht, damit der Boden die Feuchtigkeit besser speichert. Das einzige Problem bei meinem Setup ist, dass sich im Tank vom Luftbefeuchter durch das Licht Algen bilden, also falls jemand eine Idee für eine lichtundurchlässige Abdeckung hat, die man lange verwenden kann, gerne melden.

Bueno esta semana ya regamos con guano de murciélago y abonamos con humus de lombriz hice unos riegos solo con agua después de eso y a los días ya arrancamos con el fertilizante de engorde , me gusta como bien esta muy fuerte y sana esperemos que siga así, vamos a ver la semana q viene como venimos

Grüßt euch Freunde! Wir sind nun am letzten Tag der Woche 8. angekommen. Bin wirklich absolut zufrieden mit dem, was aus ihr geworden ist. Die Blüten haben sich in der letzten Woche wirklich gut verdichtet und der Geruch ist himmlisch. Kann’s kaum erwarten den Baum zu fällen 😂 Denke ich gebe ihr noch eine Woche und werde sie dann nach kräftigem Entlauben versuchen im Ganzen zum trocknen aufzuhängen. Bis dahin euch allen eine gute Woche 💚

Week 15 Harvest 21-2 Temperature: 29.7 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 67% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: None. 22-2 Temperature: 29.9 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 41% (lowest) Watering: None. Today is the last day, tomorrow i will harvest her. I removed all large fanleaves and took some pre-harvest pictures. 23-2 Today is harvest day! I left the buds on the branches and hang them to dry. Temperature: 18.1°c to 19.9°c Humidity: 57% to 72% 24-2 Temperature: 17°c to 18.8°c Humidity: 56% to 64% 25-2 Temperature: 16.8°c to 17.9°c Humidity: 57% to 69% 26-2 Temperature: 16.2°c to 18.1°c Humidity: 56% to 61% 27-2 Temperature: 16.2°c to 17.5°c Humidity: 55% to 61% 28-2 Temperature: 16.3°c to 17.6°c Humidity: 57% to 64% 29-2 No info. 1-3 Temperature: 17.8°c to 18.7°c Humidity: 56% to 61% 2-3 No info. 3-3 Temperature: 16.5°c to 20.3°c Humidity: 46% to 62% After 8/9 days of drying the buds are dry enough, so lets start trimming! The buds are pretty airy and foxtaily, but very resinous, she smells good, but i think the buds are a bit overdried. End results: Trim: 18.12 Gram. Popcorn buds: 37,11 Gram. Normal Buds: 70,98 Gram. Total buds: 108,09 Grams. I will post the progress of me making bubble hash in this diary very soon, so if you are interested make sure to keep an eye out!

Day 29: LST is done. 600W LED, 20 hours on 4 hours off the same with ventilation. Insetvrhe lamp approx 36 cm away. Water intake: 75 ml per plant plus triggering, humidity around 60 percent. Fertilization is on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday with BioBizz family, Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday bat guano and Epsom salt. Critical Orange Punch started flowering se grows very quick. Rest of them are OK as well they are on the way... Day 30: I did LST again. I didn't have enough elastic band yesterday so I bought today and bent them better. I also set the lamp closer approx 32 cm.Day 31: I did LST yesterday and bent them. They already "lifted up" their heads toward the lamp. As they grow I will keep bending the main stalk and the side ones. I will try to create a spiral form and spread the plants with time. Day 32: Almost all of them started flowering except Sour Stomper. Day 35: Auto Critical Orange is the monster here. She is the most developed and tallestbwoth approx 28cm. (Hard to.measure property because of LST). Pre flowers developing nicely along the plants. I changed the lamp as it needed to my other tent because my other lamp is shit. So I will swap them one week here other week there... End of the week the tallest is Critical Orange Punch with approx 28 cm and the shortest Sour Stomper with 14 cm.

Hi everyone🍃🍃🍃 ... Everything is going well... girls are happy so you can only enjoy looking at the pictures... 🍃🍃🍃 Happy growing 🍃🍃🍃

Special queen and special kush with one week into veg stage, ak-47 with 4 weeks so I started the lst, critical with 2 weeks

She is growing perfectly, I hope she continues to feel comfortable in the tent. The flower heads are already there and the leaves are a rich green.

Once again she passes my expectations, late to the show with trichome production. I'm surprised there is purple on the bud, maybe Purpinator does work. I thought I could see hints under the grow lights and thought my eyes were deceiving me, I was just being hopeful. But nah 2 of the 3(under the UV) have developed a beautiful tone of purple. I was never going to bother with a deep freeze but maybe the whole bud will change given conditions, that would be something, fingers crossed. 🤔 was a little skeptical that reducing temps humidity would change density, but it does, buds are solid something I've not been able to achieve before. Rule of thumb is never to surpass 60% RH in the flowering phase and try to progressively reduce it down to 40% in the last 2–3 weeks before harvest. The plant will react as it seeks to protect its flowers, responding by producing denser buds and a higher concentration of resin. Cannabis plants are sensitive to sudden temperature changes, especially in the flowering stage. Extreme heat or cold can impact bud density and overall yields. In nature as a defense mechanism from cold, the plant sensing sudden dips in temperature will attempt to remove the pockets of air within the bud, it achieves this by compacting itself in doing so to better protect itself from cold snaps which are normally indicators in nature that worse weather is on the way. Terpene levels are the highest just before the sun comes out. Ideally, you want as many terpenes present in your plants as possible when you harvest. Cannabis plants soak up the sun during the day and produce resin and other goodies at night. The plant is at its emptiest from "harvest undesirables" so to speak right before the lights on. Boiling cannabis roots during harvesting slows down the drying process. When you boil cannabis roots, it shocks the plant, closing the stomata on the leaves. This prevents massive moisture loss through the leaves, leaving only the floral clusters actively losing moisture at a reduced pace. I've always run a strict 60/60 and it took almost twice as long to dry to a snap than previous grows where I didn't boil for what it's worth. Chlorophyll is good for the plant but not for you. When you harvest the buds, even after you flush them, if you flush them, they’re still filled with chlorophyll. Freshly cut buds are greener than dried buds because they still contain loads of chlorophyll. However, when rushed through the drying process, the buds dry but retain some chlorophyll, and when you smoke it, you will taste it. Chlorophyll-filled buds are smokable, but they aren’t clean. Slow drying gives the buds enough time and favorable conditions to lose the chlorophyll and sugars, giving you a smoother smoke. How the plant disposes of the chlorophyll and sugars by a process of chemically breaking them down and attaching the decomposed matter once small enough to water molecules which then evaporate back into the ether. Time must be given to the process to break down the chlorophyll and sugars. Think of it like optimizing the environment for decay. All the nutrients it could ever need are in abundance, it eats nutrients based on its demand for growth, which is dictated primarily by available light. Plant growth and geographic distribution (where the plant can grow) are greatly affected by the environment. If any environmental factor is less than ideal, it limits a plant's growth and/or distribution. For example, only plants adapted to limited amounts of water can live in deserts. Either directly or indirectly, most plant problems are caused by environmental stress. In some cases, poor environmental conditions (e.g., too little water) damage a plant directly. In other cases, environmental stress weakens a plant and makes it more susceptible to disease or insect attack. Environmental factors that affect plant growth include light, temperature, water, humidity, and nutrition. It's important to understand how these factors affect plant growth and development. With a basic understanding of these factors, you may be able to manipulate plants to meet your needs, whether for increased leaf, flower, or fruit production. By recognizing the roles of these factors, you'll also be better able to diagnose plant problems caused by environmental stress. Water and humidity *Most growing plants contain about 90 percent water. Water plays many roles in plants. It is:* A primary component in photosynthesis and respiration Responsible for turgor pressure in cells (Like the air in an inflated balloon, water is responsible for the fullness and firmness of plant tissue. Turgor is needed to maintain cell shape and ensure cell growth.) A solvent for minerals and carbohydrates moving through the plant Responsible for cooling leaves as it evaporates from leaf tissue during transpiration A regulator of stomatal opening and closing, thus controlling transpiration and, to some degree, photosynthesis The source of pressure to move roots through the soil The medium in which most biochemical reactions take place Relative humidity is the ratio of water vapor in the air to the amount of water the air could hold at the current temperature and pressure. Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. Relative humidity (RH) is expressed by the following equation: RH = water in air ÷ water air could hold (at constant temperature and pressure) The relative humidity is given as a percent. For example, if a pound of air at 75°F could hold 4 grams of water vapor, and there are only 3 grams of water in the air, then the relative humidity (RH) is: 3 ÷ 4 = 0.75 = 75% Water vapor moves from an area of high relative humidity to one of low relative humidity. The greater the difference in humidity, the faster water moves. This factor is important because the rate of water movement directly affects a plant's transpiration rate. The relative humidity in the air spaces between leaf cells approaches 100 percent. When a stoma opens, water vapor inside the leaf rushes out into the surrounding air (Figure 2), and a bubble of high humidity forms around the stoma. By saturating this small area of air, the bubble reduces the difference in relative humidity between the air spaces within the leaf and the air adjacent to the leaf. As a result, transpiration slows down. If the wind blows the humidity bubble away, however, transpiration increases. Thus, transpiration usually is at its peak on hot, dry, windy days. On the other hand, transpiration generally is quite slow when temperatures are cool, humidity is high, and there is no wind. Hot, dry conditions generally occur during the summer, which partially explains why plants wilt quickly in the summer. If a constant supply of water is not available to be absorbed by the roots and moved to the leaves, turgor pressure is lost and leaves go limp. Plant Nutrition Plant nutrition often is confused with fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to a plant's need for and use of basic chemical elements. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are added to the environment around a plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element in a fertilizer can be used by a plant. Plants need 17 elements for normal growth. Three of them--carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen--are found in air and water. The rest are found in the soil. Six soil elements are called macronutrients because they are used in relatively large amounts by plants. They are nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur. Eight other soil elements are used in much smaller amounts and are called micronutrients or trace elements. They are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. They make up less than 1% of total but are none the less vital. Most of the nutrients a plant needs are dissolved in water and then absorbed by its roots. In fact, 98 percent are absorbed from the soil-water solution, and only about 2 percent are actually extracted from soil particles. Fertilizers Fertilizers are materials containing plant nutrients that are added to the environment around a plant. Generally, they are added to the water or soil, but some can be sprayed on leaves. This method is called foliar fertilization. It should be done carefully with a dilute solution because a high fertilizer concentration can injure leaf cells. The nutrient, however, does need to pass through the thin layer of wax (cutin) on the leaf surface. It is to be noted applying a immobile nutrient via foliar application it will remain immobile within the leaf it was absorbed through. Fertilizers are not plant food! Plants produce their own food from water, carbon dioxide, and solar energy through photosynthesis. This food (sugars and carbohydrates) is combined with plant nutrients to produce proteins, enzymes, vitamins, and other elements essential to growth. Nutrient absorption Anything that reduces or stops sugar production in leaves can lower nutrient absorption. Thus, if a plant is under stress because of low light or extreme temperatures, nutrient deficiency may develop. A plant's developmental stage or rate of growth also may affect the amount of nutrients absorbed. Many plants have a rest (dormant) period during part of the year. During this time, few nutrients are absorbed. Plants also may absorb different nutrients as flower buds begin to develop than they do during periods of rapid vegetative growth. 432 Hz is said to be mathematically consistent with the patterns of the universe. Studies reveal that 432 Hz tuning vibrates with the universe’s golden mean PHI and unifies the properties of light, time, space, matter, gravity and magnetism with biology, the DNA code and consciousness. When our atoms and DNA start to resonate in harmony with the spiraling pattern of nature, our sense of connection to nature is said to be magnified. Another interesting factor to consider is that the A=432 Hz tuning correlates with the color spectrum while the A=440 Hz is off. Audiophiles have also stated that A = 432 Hz music seems to be non-local and can fill an entire room, whereas A=440 Hz can be perceived as directional or linear in sound propagation. Once you adopt the idea that sound (or vibration in general) can have an equalizing and harmonizing effect (as well as a disturbing effect), the science of harmony can be applied to bring greater harmony into ones life or a tune to specific energies. There is a form of absolute and of relative harmony. Absolute harmony can for example be determined by the tuning of an instrument. The ancients tuned their instruments at an A of 432 Hz instead of 440 Hz - and for a good reason. There are plenty of music examples on the internet that you can listen to in order to establish the difference for yourself. Attuning the instrument to 432 Hz results in a more relaxing sound, while 440 Hz slightly tenses up to body. This is because 440 Hz is out of tune with both macro and micro cosmos. On the contrary, 432 Hz is in tune. To give an example of how this is manifested micro cosmically: our breath (0,3 Hz) and our pulse (1,2 Hz) relate to the frequency of the lower octave of an A of 432 Hz (108 Hz) as 1:360 and 1:90. It is interesting to note that 432 Hz was the standard pitch of many old instruments, and that it was only recently (19th and 20th century) the standard pitch was increased. This was done in order to be able to play for bigger audiences. Bigger audiences (more bodies) absorb more of the lower frequencies, so the higher pitch was more likely to “cut through”. One of the oldest instruments of the world is the bell ensemble of Yi Zeng (dated 423 BC), tuned to a standard F4 of 345 Hz which gives an A= 432 Hz. The frequency of 345 Hz is that of the platonic year! Similarly many old organs are tuned in an A=432 as well; for example: St. Peter’s Capella Gregoriana, St. Peter’s Capella Giulia, S. Maria Maggiore in Rome. Maria Renold’s book “Intervals Scales Tones and the Concert Pitch C=128 Hz” claims conclusive evidence that 440 Hz and raising concert pitch above scientific “C” Prime=128 Hz (Concert A=432 Hz) disassociates the connection of consciousness to the body and creates anti-social conditions in humanity. The difference between concert pitch A=440 Hz and Concert A=432 Hz is only 8 cycles per second, but it is a perceptible difference of awareness in the human consciousness experience of the dream we share called existence.

Day 70 (4/22): about two weeks left with this plant. Day 71 (4/23) Day 72 (4/24) Day 73 (4/25) just fed plain water. Probably going to pull this plant in about 5 days. Day 74 (4/26) Day 75 (4/27) Day 76 (4/28)

Had to change the lamps bc some changes were made in my other tent.

~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_ ❤️💡🌱😽💨 These girls held up pretty good while we were gone..They still look too dark/overfed but already well into their flowering stretch and have surpassed the other strains in height despite being the smallest plants this entire run...but we're still expecting the typical kush "golf ball" yields lol...They're all showing signs of a slight calmag deficiency (or light stress?) so we gave a full strength shot of calmag earlier today, raised the Solux about 3 inches and will document any change next week... The light is currently at 75%, we'll keep it here until their stretch is over and finish the grow at 100%... I'm blown away at how good the Solux350 is at lighting up an entire 4x4 despite being the size of a shoebox, its a star in a jar lol.. not too much else to report, looking forward to their color bouncing back..thanks as always for dropping by and happy harvest folks!! 🤘😼❤️🌱 ⚡Hortibloom/Solux 350⚡ Specifications ⚙️: Diodes: Samsung LM281 Pro / Osram DR (1,440 total)💡 Driver: Inventronics 350 watt🔌 PPF: 1015 μmol/s ☢️ PPE: 2.9 µmol/j 〰️〰️ Lifespan: 50k+ hrs ⌛ Weight: 14.3lbs lbs (6.5kg) Veg Coverage: 5 x 5 ft 🌱 Flowering Coverage: 4 x 4 ft 🌼 -Uses an aluminum heatsink (no fan), quiet while operating 👂⬇️ -IP65 waterproof ratings, tolerant to high humidity grow environments 💦 -May be daisy-chained via RJ14 and managed from a single controller 💡~💡~💡~💡~💡 🌎 https://hortibloom.com/products/solux-350-led-grow-light ~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_~_

Langsam verwelken die Fächerblätter, ich glaube die Pflanze nähert sich ihrem Ende.

Loved the strain she was super strong attacked by a cat a cuple of times and she really grow well after that 62cm so yes, I think is strong, she smells like cream and fruis i dry her for 4 days with herbdryer i was fast bit didnt hold the smell , the yield was very good to 34 grams ready for the jars, I took some lower buds and smoke them , the flavor is just how she smells , like cream with fruit tones that come and go wile the cream sensation stays in your mouth, i love this kinda flavors , the effects are active at the beginning with a rush of energy ,but if you stop then relaxing is coming like you want to see a movie and eat a lot ahahha well thats my first impression i know the smell and taste is going to get better with time so for now this is what i can say , what a good strain fast Buds!💚👌🏻🌲👐🏻👊🏻

Ya viendo el resultado del último LST, desde aquí ya veo cómo van las cosas!

Week 13/5 - 19/5 Flush time. 50L of water