.just watering with monomagnesium and starting flowerbooster . She’s starting to yellow up from the down to upper parts . It’s getting hot like 26-28 degrees that’s not optimal and leafes are hanging a bit on the lower parts . Overall she’s still doing great . Added a 2nd mars hydro fan to the lower part of the tent. Should’ve listened to my bro @laxx who said it ain’t that smart growing in the tent at this time of the year . He was unfortunately right . But we keep going let’s see if the weather gets better or if she’s fighting through it or not :D Every day is a learning :D

I cannot believe how much growth this week!!! I think she has doubled in size!! For the first time I've had to higher the light fixture. It is now almost as high as I can put it. I'm kinda regretting not FIMing her now...... I hope she does not grow much more in height!

Вот. Не знаю. КАкда. Срезать. Шас или. Через недельку памогити. Светом плиз ?!)

Buds looking alright. Leaves have seen better days & I feel like she's dying on me... Swapped the light because my friend who 'claims he's an expert' told me too. Flushed 20th will go for a 2-week flush even with this flawless finish. (if they make it that long) My tap water is 360ppm & runoff is 415 after flush (30+L of PH'd water) I am definitely going to do a 48-hour dark period before harvest with no watering. Anything I'm doing wrong let me know!

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Flower Week 1

Just rotated water and recharge tea, giving them about 42 oz of water each between the 3 ladies. They split a gallon of water every other day now. Sweet berry front and a lucky charms back with kerosene.

Just like Aron Judge the slumb continue. Somehow I went from 100% germination to not even half. Back to the trusted coffee filter and ziplocks and orange Nike shoe boxes ( THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT, CAN'T STRESS IS ENOUGH. ORANGE NIKE BOX) Didn't have space to grow 5 photos in a tent whit 2 photos waiting to flip when the 4 autoflowers are ready. Hope everything works out time wise though. Happy growing ✌️

420Fastbuds-Greenhouse Grow 2025 The feminized strains RainbowMelon, GorillaMelon, LemonPaya, PapayaSherbet, LemonMandarin, the FastFlowering GG4/Sherbet from Fastbuds are doing amazing for there first full week in the greenhouse. The heat in SoCal is warming up with temps in the low 90's in the daytime and 60's for nighttime. Over all they're starting to reach for the stars after being topped. Besides a couple of yellow leafs I snipped at the soil level, I'm seeing growth almost daily. I'll start feeding this week Grow A & B as well as Calmag from AthenaBlendedLine. Since being transplanted into the 5gal fabric pots they've only got well water. Happy Growing.

Day 84 - just fed with water today Day 85 - checked trichomes today. They looked mostly clear with about 2% amber so another week - 2 for SP and WC Day 86 - just full water and foliar today Day 87 - power block on one of my lights shorted. Apparently it’s an easy fix but the 6 plants will go another week or two with just the one light. Day 88 - placed both Strawberry Pie and Wedding Cheesecake into 48hours of darkness before chopping on Saturday. 90 days is an amazing time from seed to harvest Day 89 - lemon pie starting to fill out more but looks like it will need at least a week - 2 weeks still Day 90 - harvested SP and WC and hung in cupboard with fan for ventilation

Básicamente lo mismo, aunque está semana pilló bastante más horas de luz(tuve que irme fuera de casa dos findes seguidos, en los cuales la dejé con la luz encendida full 24/7 en la caja) Como experiencia utilicé café reposado 48h para "alimentarla" e intentar bajar el Ph de la tierra (coco ph6+hummus ph7+vermiculita ph8= ph total 7) El otro experimento fue cubrir la tierra con coco para que el tallo eche raíces y aprovechar su espigamento! Las horas de luz solía dejarla 8h en bombilla mientras duermo, y el día la pongo en la ventana a que tome el fresco, pero apenas tiene luz directa, me da la sensación que crece más rapido cuando vuelvo del finde, estoy replanteandome tenerla más tiempo en la caja con luz, porque la veo aún pequeña, y quizá ponerle un ventilador de pc o algo🤔..veremos, aún tengo el papel de aluminio al lado de la caja y ni se lo he puesto, con eso os lo digo todo☝️🎃

Loving their structure…she will soon be transferred to a 5 gallon pot.

Another solid week of growth!! The two big plants nearly doubled their height and both had a lot of undergrowth this week! I plan on trying my hand at LST tomorrow. I added more soil into the pots yesterday. I still feel it is too low but I don't want to shock the plants too badly. I watered after lifting the plants up some and adding the soil. I plan on feeding them tomorrow night. The first white pistils have sprouted and there is a distinct aroma of marijuana in the air!! I hope they hold off another week before really start to flower. It's amazing how fast a month can go by! I may not keep the little plant past this week. We'll see if she makes it that far... Here's to another week of healthy growing!! Peace!

Bubba Kush Mintz great great. She has some nice dense looking colas on her. Lots of frosty goodness awaits. She will be going to ph water in a few days. Then the next update will be her harvest time. The grow has gone well, Bd now time to reap the rewards. Thank you Aeque Genetics, Athena, and Spider Farmer. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

They are both growing good.. Some issues with the runt leaves.. They are showing signs of deficiency but I've given mostly cal mag water 💦 to her. The video shows how frosty main witch is, wow.

7/21 Battling a strange deficiency that has spread to one of the buds, almost positive its a calcium issue so I gave #3 a 1l of water with cal-mag. Things looking great otherwise. 7/22 cut the bud that was having strange issues and there was no mold inside. Dried it for a day, smoked the most messed up part just to see and it was fine so unless it was a heat issue I have no clue what happened. Otherwise everything is still looking great 7/23 Cut a couple of the main colas because quite a few of the trichomes were turning amber. It may have been a bit too early, bit I will monitor the rest of the plants to see how the develop.

D43. The first day in the third week of flower, everything is great in the tent. She looks terrific and smell fantastic. There seems to be something with CBD plants that makes them smell outstanding. ------------------------------ D45. There's nothing to report, really. She is quietly doing her thing, and there isn't much for me to do at this point. The mushroom kit seems to have just died after harvest, and today, I noticed some mold and removed it immediately. It was a fun experiment that didn't work out as I'd hoped. Oh, well :) ------------------------------ D47. Zzzzzzzz... flower is so dull as there's nothing to do but wait. ------------------------------ D49. There's not much to report at the end of the second week of flower. Yesterday, the entire tent was without power, so there was no light or exhaust for five hours. Ugh! Fortunately, I was making some compost tea and discovered the lack of power when watering. I gave the girl 2.5 liters of compost tea and humic acid @ pH 6.6. ------------------------------

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