Hey guys, Another Explosive week has passed and the plant seems to not stop growing, I have some side branches reaching 80cm while the main branch stopped at 68cm. I really hope it can produce nice buds. At the moment it still a little bit 'empty' hoping week 7 will make the flower explode, I really hope so... For now it's all, stay tuned and stay high nice people!

Defoliated the bottom 1/3rd of the plant to clear up some airflow

Starting to really fill out smell is 6/10 so far very sweet some pine as well

Lacewings seemed to have mostly killed themselves by flying into hot light fixtures. I may have left the UV on which was smart of me :) Done very little to combat if anything but make a sea of carcasses, on the bright side its good nutrition for the soil. Made a concoction of ethanol 70%, equal parts water, and cayenne pepper with a couple of squirts of dish soap. Took around an hour of good scrubbing the entire canopy. Worked a lot more effectively and way cheaper. Scorched earth right now, but it seems to have wiped them out almost entirely very pleased. Attempted a "Fudge I Missed" for the topping. So just time to wait and see how it goes. Question? If I attached a plant to two separate pots but it was connected by rootzone, one has a pH of 7.5 ish the other has 4.5. Would the Intelligence of the plant able to dictate each pot separately to uptake the nutrients best suited to pH or would it still try to draw nitrogen from a pot with a pH where nitrogen struggles to uptake? Food for stoner thought experiments! Another was on my mind. What happens when a plant gets too much light? Well, it burns and curls up leaves. That's the heat radiation, let's remove excess heat, now what? I've always read it's just bad, or not good, but when I look for an explanation on a deeper level it's just bad and you shouldn't do it. So I did. How much can a cannabis plant absorb, 40 moles in a day, ok I'll give it 60 moles. 80 nothing bad ever happened. The answer, finally. Oh great........more questions........ Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are molecules capable of independent existence, containing at least one oxygen atom and one or more unpaired electrons. "Sunlight is the essential source of energy for most photosynthetic organisms, yet sunlight in excess of the organism’s photosynthetic capacity can generate reactive oxygen species (ROS) that lead to cellular damage. To avoid damage, plants respond to high light (HL) by activating photophysical pathways that safely convert excess energy to heat, which is known as nonphotochemical quenching (NPQ) (Rochaix, 2014). While NPQ allows for healthy growth, it also limits the overall photosynthetic efficiency under many conditions. If NPQ were optimized for biomass, yields would improve dramatically, potentially by up to 30% (Kromdijk et al., 2016; Zhu et al., 2010). However, critical information to guide optimization is still lacking, including the molecular origin of NPQ and the mechanism of regulation." What I found most interesting was research pointing out that pH is linked to this defense mechanism. The organism can better facilitate "quenching" when oversaturated with light in a low pH. Now I Know during photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Do they have the ability to alter pH themselves using these excretions? Or is that done by the beneficial bacteria? If I can prevent reactive oxygen species from causing damage by "too much light". The extra water needed to keep this level of burn cooled though, I must learn to crawl before I can run. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are key signaling molecules that enable cells to rapidly respond to different stimuli. In plants, ROS plays a crucial role in abiotic and biotic stress sensing, integration of different environmental signals, and activation of stress-response networks, thus contributing to the establishment of defense mechanisms and plant resilience. Recent advances in the study of ROS signaling in plants include the identification of ROS receptors and key regulatory hubs that connect ROS signaling with other important stress-response signal transduction pathways and hormones, as well as new roles for ROS in organelle-to-organelle and cell-to-cell signaling. Our understanding of how ROS are regulated in cells by balancing production, scavenging, and transport has also increased. In this Review, we discuss these promising developments and how they might be used to increase plant resilience to environmental stress. Temperature stress is one of the major abiotic stresses that adversely affect agricultural productivity worldwide. Temperatures beyond a plant's physiological optimum can trigger significant physiological and biochemical perturbations, reducing plant growth and tolerance to stress. Improving a plant's tolerance to these temperature fluctuations requires a deep understanding of its responses to environmental change. To adapt to temperature fluctuations, plants tailor their acclimatory signal transduction events, specifically, cellular redox state, that are governed by plant hormones, reactive oxygen species (ROS) regulatory systems, and other molecular components. The role of ROS in plants as important signaling molecules during stress acclimation has recently been established. Here, hormone-triggered ROS produced by NADPH oxidases, feedback regulation, and integrated signaling events during temperature stress activate stress-response pathways and induce acclimation or defense mechanisms. At the other extreme, excess ROS accumulation, following temperature-induced oxidative stress, can have negative consequences on plant growth and stress acclimation. The excessive ROS is regulated by the ROS scavenging system, which subsequently promotes plant tolerance. All these signaling events, including crosstalk between hormones and ROS, modify the plant's transcriptomic, metabolomic, and biochemical states and promote plant acclimation, tolerance, and survival. Here, we provide a comprehensive review of the ROS, hormones, and their joint role in shaping a plant's responses to high and low temperatures, and we conclude by outlining hormone/ROS-regulated plant-responsive strategies for developing stress-tolerant crops to combat temperature changes. Onward upward for now. Next! Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) is an energy-carrying molecule known as "the energy currency of life" or "the fuel of life," because it's the universal energy source for all living cells.1 Every living organism consists of cells that rely on ATP for their energy needs. ATP is made by converting the food we eat into energy. It's an essential building block for all life forms. Without ATP, cells wouldn't have the fuel or power to perform functions necessary to stay alive, and they would eventually die. All forms of life rely on ATP to do the things they must do to survive.2 ATP is made of a nitrogen base (adenine) and a sugar molecule (ribose), which create adenosine, plus three phosphate molecules. If adenosine only has one phosphate molecule, it’s called adenosine monophosphate (AMP). If it has two phosphates, it’s called adenosine diphosphate (ADP). Although adenosine is a fundamental part of ATP, when it comes to providing energy to a cell and fueling cellular processes, the phosphate molecules are what really matter. The most energy-loaded composition for adenosine is ATP, which has three phosphates.3 ATP was first discovered in the 1920s. In 1929, Karl Lohmann—a German chemist studying muscle contractions—isolated what we now call adenosine triphosphate in a laboratory. At the time, Lohmann called ATP by a different name. It wasn't until a decade later, in 1939, that Nobel Prize–-winner Fritz Lipmann established that ATP is the universal carrier of energy in all living cells and coined the term "energy-rich phosphate bonds."45 Lipmann focused on phosphate bonds as the key to ATP being the universal energy source for all living cells, because adenosine triphosphate releases energy when one of its three phosphate bonds breaks off to form ADP. ATP is a high-energy molecule with three phosphate bonds; ADP is low-energy with only two phosphate bonds. The Twos and Threes of ATP and ADP Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) becomes adenosine diphosphate (ADP) when one of its three phosphate molecules breaks free and releases energy (“tri” means “three,” while “di” means “two”). Conversely, ADP becomes ATP when a phosphate molecule is added. As part of an ongoing energy cycle, ADP is constantly recycled back into ATP.3 Much like a rechargeable battery with a fluctuating state of charge, ATP represents a fully charged battery, and ADP represents a "low-power mode." Every time a fully charged ATP molecule loses a phosphate bond, it becomes ADP; energy is released via the process of ATP becoming ADP. On the flip side, when a phosphate bond is added, ADP becomes ATP. When ADP becomes ATP, what was previously a low-charged energy adenosine molecule (ADP) becomes fully charged ATP. This energy-creation and energy-depletion cycle happens time and time again, much like your smartphone battery can be recharged countless times during its lifespan. The human body uses molecules held in the fats, proteins, and carbohydrates we eat or drink as sources of energy to make ATP. This happens through a process called hydrolysis . After food is digested, it's synthesized into glucose, which is a form of sugar. Glucose is the main source of fuel that our cells' mitochondria use to convert caloric energy from food into ATP, which is an energy form that can be used by cells. ATP is made via a process called cellular respiration that occurs in the mitochondria of a cell. Mitochondria are tiny subunits within a cell that specialize in extracting energy from the foods we eat and converting it into ATP. Mitochondria can convert glucose into ATP via two different types of cellular respiration: Aerobic (with oxygen) Anaerobic (without oxygen) Aerobic cellular respiration transforms glucose into ATP in a three-step process, as follows: Step 1: Glycolysis Step 2: The Krebs cycle (also called the citric acid cycle) Step 3: Electron transport chain During glycolysis, glucose (i.e., sugar) from food sources is broken down into pyruvate molecules. This is followed by the Krebs cycle, which is an aerobic process that uses oxygen to finish breaking down sugar and harnesses energy into electron carriers that fuel the synthesis of ATP. Lastly, the electron transport chain (ETC) pumps positively charged protons that drive ATP production throughout the mitochondria’s inner membrane.2 ATP can also be produced without oxygen (i.e., anaerobic), which is something plants, algae, and some bacteria do by converting the energy held in sunlight into energy that can be used by a cell via photosynthesis. Anaerobic exercise means that your body is working out "without oxygen." Anaerobic glycolysis occurs in human cells when there isn't enough oxygen available during an anaerobic workout. If no oxygen is present during cellular respiration, pyruvate can't enter the Krebs cycle and is oxidized into lactic acid. In the absence of oxygen, lactic acid fermentation makes ATP anaerobically. The burning sensation you feel in your muscles when you're huffing and puffing during anaerobic high-intensity interval training (HIIT) that maxes out your aerobic capacity or during a strenuous weight-lifting workout is lactic acid, which is used to make ATP via anaerobic glycolysis. During aerobic exercise, mitochondria have enough oxygen to make ATP aerobically. However, when you're out of breath and your cells don’t have enough oxygen to perform cellular respiration aerobically, the process can still happen anaerobically, but it creates a temporary burning sensation in your skeletal muscles. Why ATP Is So Important? ATP is essential for life and makes it possible for us to do the things we do. Without ATP, cells wouldn't be able to use the energy held in food to fuel cellular processes, and an organism couldn't stay alive. As a real-world example, when a car runs out of gas and is parked on the side of the road, the only thing that will make the car drivable again is putting some gasoline back in the tank. For all living cells, ATP is like the gas in a car's fuel tank. Without ATP, cells wouldn't have a source of usable energy, and the organism would die. Eating a well-balanced diet and staying hydrated should give your body all the resources it needs to produce plenty of ATP. Although some athletes may slightly improve their performance by taking supplements or ergonomic aids designed to increase ATP production, it's debatable that oral adenosine triphosphate supplementation actually increases energy. An average cell in the human body uses about 10 million ATP molecules per second and can recycle all of its ATP in less than a minute. Over 24 hours, the human body turns over its weight in ATP. You can last weeks without food. You can last days without water. You can last minutes without oxygen. You can last 16 seconds at most without ATP. Food amounts to one-third of ATP production within the human body.

Easy grow cycle, 5 weeks of vegetation and 7 to 8 weeks of flowering and they are good to harvest. For drying I only removed the bigger fan leaves. Now they are hanging upside down in the tent to dry for about 8 to 10 days before trimming and getting a proper dry weight.

Week Day 1-2 Alot of lollipopping / Defoliation. Plant is Blooming nicely Day 3-4 Recovering from the Defoliation. Day 5-6 Defoliation bud sites from blocking leaves.

MY SAYING NOW IS: THE ONLY WAY TO GROW IS WITH THE HYDRO🤘 AND REACH FOR THE STARS WITH MARS🤘🤣. https://youtube.com/channel/UChU5ZWwNi-DvnO3oWVU3ceA So it's been 17 days under the new MARS HYDRO FC4800 and the TSW2000 and the girls are loving it.. leaves were straight up like they were at a rock concert just blowing in the wind waving their arms like they are in the moshpit🤣🤣 looked so sweet👍. after a day they have stretched so much I had to raise the light already to keep it at 14 inches above the canopy. Plants grow so uniform under these lights, canopy is always nice and even👍. it has a whiter light than the mars tsw2000. Being side by side in my 8x8 tent, I can really see the difference in the color of light. The FC4800 is more of a white light like natural light. Its the NEW blue uv Diodes they added to the fc series lights. I'm amazed at how good this light is already. Barely any heat comes off it. I can rest my hand on it when the dimmer is at 100% and it's just warm. I have it daisy chained to my TSW2000 and it works awesome👍 and I dont have to reach for the other dimmer to do both. One dimmer controls both lights. When I add more lights I will daisy chain them too and control 4 lights from 1 dimmer👍. I still love my tsw2000. It's been going almost non stop since I got it and no issues at all. I take a picture of the Diodes to see if any have burnt out or anything, everything is fine.  same thing with the heat it gives off is just like the FC4800. I can rest my hand on it without burning me👍. Having both lights on 100% because I'm in flower now, only raises my temperature about 3°celcius. Make sure you got some calmag and if you use reverse osmosis water (bottled water) or filtered water you will want extra calmag because it's filtered out of it👍. I CANT BELIEVE the amount of crystals the plants have already🤘 they just started getting bigger hair clumps and I didn't expect to see this much already👍 awesome lights do an awesome job. So it's looking good for these strains I made👍. These lights are perfect for every stage of growth for germination to flower. Just use the dimmers to reduce the intensity of the lights for whatever stage you are in. Plus they are easy to raise and lower them with the ratchet straps. MARS HYDRO'S recommended height for different stages is pretty accurate but different strains like different Temps and light sensitivity so that's something to look into, a more Mediterranean strain can take more heat and intense lighting. and you can just follow their recommendations for the height for each stage. I slowly turn it up in the later veg cycle until I'm at 75% about a week before I switch to 12/12 and after about 4 or 5 days into flower I'm at 100% with no heat or light stress👍. Mars hydro is awesome for their pricing for what you get👍. They should cost alot more than other brands but shhhhh don't tell them🤣🤣🤣🤣. Just kidding. they want to stay competitive with every brand but there stuff is always cheaper than SF and vipar etc. They know once you use mars hydro products you won't switch to another brand. Why pay more money for something that isn't as good. I've seen lights cheaper than mars but they are cheaper for a reason. They are built cheaper. My TSW2000 is fairly heavy too. But when it comes to getting lights you want some weight to it so you know it's built strong and sturdy and will last a long time.. I called customer service a few times and they will help you out with any questions you may have about the products and they are very well educated in their products👍 very helpful and very friendly. They are awesome 🤜🤛. I can't say enough about this grow tent too. The thing is a beast. I could use the canvas tent to make a trampoline and i doubt it would break its that thick👍 I've had some cheaper tents made of 600d canvas and they aren't that bad. But when you get a tent made from 1680D canvas material it's insane how strong and heavy it is. Before I put the tent together when I lifted the canvas to start wrapping the frame I said to myself.. LORD TUNDERIN JESUS this has some nice weight to it. It was the easiest tent to put together that I've ever had. I went inside with the lights off and got someone to turn it on after a minute or two to look for light leaks and there was none👍. It even blocks out some noise, so if your fans or filters are loud, once it is zipped up it gets quieter. this tent is awesome with So many ports and vents for whatever you need to hook up to it. It has frame bars down the middle and one vertical pole in the middle to keep it sturdy but the poles are made nice and so thick that they probably didn't even need a vertical bar in the middle. It has 2 separate 4x8 floor trays that divide it into 2 4x8 tents. All you need is a mylar divider to easily divide it in half. I love the stickers it comes with. It's nothing big to some people but I know there is lots of people that like them because you see them everywhere in people's tents and in pictures. I love them they are super cool stickers👍. It really locks in the light and temperature and humidity good. Lots of room for all the equipment I have to go in it and will get to put in it. Be good to bring camping too🤣🤣🤣🤜🤛. Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to read this and please leave a comment 🙏🤜🤛 if you have any questions about any of the products I use please feel free to ask me and I can help you out👍🤜🤛 I also know about all their other products too, so any questions about stuff I'm not using I can still help you guys out🤘 and ask about pricing if you're interested in anything and I'll see what kind of deals I can hook you up with. But don't just buy stuff.. let me know so I can talk to my friends at mars hydro and probably get you a better deal👍🤜🤛 https://www.mars-hydro.com Promo code: Rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny Here's some more information about these products I'm using: The goal of MarsHydro is simply to produce the best value grow tents in the  growing field and they didn't disappoint me at all. I'm beyond satisfied with everything. And with the most up to date hydroponic equipment at the lowest prices possible. Their grow tents have combined all their engineers and customers' advice to produce these unbelievable tents.. they really listen to us and change things to our liking so if you own anything from mars just contact them and let them know.. they take our advice and considerations VERY SERIOUSLY so don't hesitate to let them know 💪🤜🤛 The MARS HYDRO 8x8 Grow Tent interior is made of a unique diamond design mylar which is highly reflective. (Other companies mylar and reflective rate is as low as 50%, and it won't provide efficient light. They use thick 1680D oxford canvas, and being double stitched, it is tear proof and perfect for locking in the light. Their grow tent keeps 100% of the light inside the tent and helps your plants absorb more light. EXTRA-THICK material means No light leaks or rips at all.👍 Strong Stable metal corner adapters and poles are the trustful supporters of the tent. It's very sturdy, neither rusting or paint flaking off. quick and easy tool-free setup. They use heavy-duty metal zippers, with double layer black lining, by far the best on the market which creates a light-proof seal. The Easy observation windows are made by double layers of cloth. Observe the growing conditions of your plants without opening the tent and avoid disturbing your plants. The observation windows also serves to dissipate heat and ventilate the air. The tent includes 2 removable waterproof floor trays to hold soil and water. The removable tray can be taken out to wash easily. They guarantee the grow tents are easy to install even if you've never done something like this before. Clear Instructions and no tools needed! They also offer 30-day unconditional refunds for quality problems. Just contact their friendly 24 hours customer service 👍 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Promo code: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny GET THE MAX FROM MARS👍: Welcome one of  the newest members of the Mars Hydro family🤜🤛🤘. The Mars Hydro FC 4800 480W LED Grow Light can accommodate up to a 4' x 4' area for flowering. It has OVER 2000 LED chips consisting of the best selling Samsung LM301B diodes which has a Luminous Efficacy of: 220 lm/W 0.2 W, 3 V mid power, Osram 660nm Diodes, Infrared light and UV LIGHT👍. It boasts the incredible efficiency of 2.8 µmol/J, maximum 2.5gram yield per watt with 30% higher Average PPFD. This High-intensity spectrum is beneficial for plants at all stages - from veg to bloom, and creates Big dense Buds👍. achieve 50% higher yields & quality compared with the old lights! Only consumes 480W for 4x4ft personal grows, and 3x3ft for commerical grow. It comes with a dimmer and daisy chain function with a  maximum of up to 15 lights, the master light controls the rest👍. Wide 6-bar design offers even & wide canopy coverage and can maximizes your grow space. slim 180° FOLDABLE DESIGN... YES I SAID FOLDABLE🤘🤣 , making it compact and easy to install, it's IP65 WATERPROOF and will give you no worries while growing in a humid environment and makes it a flexible high performance commercial grow light for enormous  SUPER FROSTY yields.😛😛😛. MARS GETS EM FROSTY BOYS👍 AWESOME HEAT DISSIPATION: The Low energy consumption FC4800 growing light has 6 passive-cooled bars and an aluminum heat-sink a removable driver  you can upgrade later or have it outside your tent. with zero noise  you can save up to 50% in your electricity bill compared to HID's or HPS lights! It also has a removable driver so you can upgrade it in the future or have it outside your grow space for better heat control in your growroom👍 UPGRADED FULL SPECTRUM: Yield Max Spectrum with enhanced red (Top-Bin Samsung 3000k-5000knm, Osram 660nm Deep Red), speed up blooming & fruiting, perfectly suited for full-cycle growing. The FC4800 LED grow lamp was born for Big Buds, perfect for commercial, grow tent, grow room, hydroponics, and all soil grows.👍 THE BEST SAMSUNG DIODES: THE FC4800 has Top Bin genuine Samsung Osram Diodes, combined with remarkable 2.8 µmol/J Efficacy, 30% higher Average PPFD, 50% less energy consumption, to maximize your yields. They give you a TRUSTED 3 years warranty 100% Satisfactory guaranteed!!! https://www.mars-hydro.com         PROMO CODE: rocknroll Instagram: @marshydropenny Happy growing to all my friends 🤜🤛

D68 (28/01/2021): First official day of week 6 in bloom and first official day (second in reality) of pre harvest flush. The smell is strong when I open the tent! It does not take long for the whole room to smell dank and even outside the room. - temp: 24-25C light ON ; 20-22C light OFF - no water - RH: 49-52% light ON ; 49-50% light OFF D69 (29/01/2021): I did a first proper flush today by running approximately 2.5 gallons of water trough the medium. There is still a lot of nutrients in the medium. I might do the exact same flush tomorrow. The PH of the run off is high (around PH7-7.1). This is an other reason to flush again tomorrow. I also reduced the light ON schedule by two hours. So now 18h hours ON and 6 hours OFF. I will continue reducing the ON period until they are ready for a complete dark period. I also try to reduce the air temperature. - temp: 24-25C light ON ; 19-20C light OFF - water: PH6.4, 135PPM, 2.5 gallons each - run off: PH7 and 680PPM for Glue Gelato ; PH7.1 and 560PPM for Banana Kush - RH: 47% light ON ; 48-53% light OFF D70 (30/01/2021): I did a second flush since I was not satisfied with run off PPM of yesterday. Today, the run off PPM is under 300 which is what I wanted. The run off PH is still high with 7.1. Banana Kush is ripening with the pistils slowly turning brown. Glue Gelato look sooooo yummy and I can't wait to harvest it. There is a small color change in some leaves but I'm expecting more in the next days. - temp: 23-24C light ON ; 19C light OFF - water: PH6.4, 125PPM, 2.5 gallons each - run off: PH7.1 and 260PPM for Glue Gelato ; PH7.1 and 250PPM for Banana Kush - RH: 46% light ON ; 46-48% light OFF D71 (31/01/2021): Glue Gelato is changing color. I'm checking trichomes everyday on both girls and no amber yet. - temp: 23-24C light ON ; 19C light OFF - no water - RH: 45% light ON ; 49-50% light OFF D72 (01/02/2021): Well well well...the clock is ticking for those girls. Glue Gelato is now having a couple of amber trichomes. Banana Kush don't have any. Overall Banana Kush has less trichomes and fluffier buds. This girls is not ready yet but I will need to chop her down at the same time has the Glue Gelato because my drying space is the tent I'm growing in. I will try to push the Banana Kush to ripen faster by lifting up the lamp at 16 inches from top bud and by reducing of 2 hours the day period for a 16 hours light ON and 8 hours light OFF. But at least all Banana Kush trichomes looks milky. - temp: 23-24C light ON ; 18-19C light OFF - water: PH6.2, 123PPM, less then a gallon each - run off: PH7.4 and 200PPM for Glue Gelato ; PH7.4 and 287PPM for Banana Kush - RH: 45% light ON ; 40-45% light OFF D73 (02/02/2021): I gave water probably for the last time today. Trichomes on Glue Gelato are starting to amber on top buds. Not a lot of amber but you can see that all the trichomes are starting to degrade by curling down slowly. Trichomes on Banana Kush are not amber at all but they all look milky. Glue Gelato is ready to harvest but Banana Kush need more time. It's tough to make a decision to chop or not since they are not at the same stage of growth. I want to place them in a complete 48 hours of darkness before harvest. 1h less light today for a 15h light ON and 9h light OFF. The lamps are now at 20 inches. - temp: 23-24C light ON ; 18-19C light OFF - water: less then a gallon each - RH: 45% light ON ; 40-45% light OFF D74 (03/02/2021): Glue Gelato is ready for 48h of darkness. I will take her out of the tent and place her in an other room without light. I will try to maintain a proper environment in this room and if it smells to strong or if the condition are not good I will replace her in the tent and both will start the 48h darkness. The idea is to give Banana Kush 2 more days to ripe and swoll more. After 48h, I will chop Glue Gelato and place her in the tent to start drying. Banana Kush will then start her 48h darkness. I don't know if this strategy is good but I will monitor everything closely and react if something is wrong. - temp: 22-23C light ON ; 19C light OFF - no water - RH: 47% light ON ; 43-45% light OFF

Videos for week 5

Only 7 weeks to go. I'm noticing some leaves are browning. It's mostly leaves that get little light, but I believe it may be over watering. Gonna reduce how often I water for right now. The plant itself smells little to me, to others its very noticeable. Not skunky at all, more of a cookies and cream scent I believe. Also slight wpm residue, tried watering thru the leaves because of how low the plant is. Terrible idea.

The tallest one of the bunch to date by a few inches. I topped and defoliated every plant. I'm trying to form them into canna-bushes. Hopefully I'm doing the correct training procedures to make them all grow that way both indoors and out.

Day 37 - March 18, 2021 Ladies are looking good and healthy. Not much to report today. Just watching them grow Planning to take clones from rest of girls this weekend / over the next week. Watering: 02:00AM-2:30AM ~1 Gallon Water 10:00AM-1030AM ~1 gallon per pot Gave foliar spray (9:00AM): * 1 Gallon RO Water (EC 0.08) * 10ML CalMag+ per Gallon * 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize * PH 6.0 * EC 1.19 Reservoir 1: * tested 10:18PM * 2.01 EC * 5.5 PH * 70.7F * ~10-11 gallons * No Topping Off * Added 8ML PHup to raise PH from 5.5 to 5.8 Reservoir 2: * tested 9:50PM * 2.06 EC * 5.5 PH * 69.44F * ~10-11 gallons * No Topping Off * Added 8ML PHup to raise PH from 5.5 to 5.8 Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) ** 9:00AM (reduced intensity from 100% to 50% to give foliar spray) ** 11:00AM (Increased intensity to 65%) ** 12:00PM (Increased intensity to 80%) ** 01:00PM (Increased intensity to 100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-75F (70F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 45%-60% (56% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60% RH (Lights Off) ~1181PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~740PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 38 - March 19, 2021 Did a little more training with tie downs today (F2,F3,F4,F6,F7,F8). Didn't have time to get to F1 and F5. Water reservoirs drop ~0.1 PH every watering. Considering converting over DTW for quality of life change. Plants have been responding well with current setup, is just starting to require daily adjustments to PH. Watering: 02:00AM-2:30AM ~1 Gallon Water 10:00AM-1030AM ~1 gallon per pot Gave foliar spray (9:00AM): * 1 Gallon RO Water (EC 0.08) * 10ML CalMag+ per Gallon * 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize * PH 6.0 * EC 1.19 Reservoir 1: * tested 11:30PM * 2.00 EC * 5.6 PH * 69.44F * ~10 gallons * No Topping Off * Added 6ML PHup to raise PH from 5.6 to 5.8 Reservoir 2: * tested 9:50PM * 2.07 EC * 5.6 PH * 69.44F * ~10 gallons * No Topping Off * Added 6ML PHup to raise PH from 5.6 to 5.8 Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) ** 9:00AM (reduced intensity from 100% to 50% to give foliar spray) ** 11:00AM (Increased intensity to 65%) ** 12:00PM (Increased intensity to 80%) ** 01:00PM (Increased intensity to 100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-75F (71F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 45%-60% (54% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60% RH (Lights Off) ~1287PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~780PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 39 - March 20, 2021 Didn't do much with the ladies today. Spent most of the time in the room reconfiguring watering system as DTW instead of recirculating. New configuration using a single 20-gallon reservoir for watering and two separate 20-gallon reservoirs to collect runoff. Prepared new reservoir with the following: 20-gallons RO Water (0.08 EC) CalMag+ - 5ML per gallon Mills Nutrients Vitalize - 0.5ML per Gallon Mills Nutrients Basis A - 15ML per Gallon Mills Nutrients Basis B - 15ML per Gallon Mills Nutrients Start-R - 4ML per Gallon H2O2 - 10ML per gallon * Added 25ML PHup to bring PH to 5.8 from 5.1 * EC 2.51 * PH 5.8 Watering: 02:00AM-2:30AM ~1 Gallon Water 10:00AM-1030AM ~1 gallon per pot 11:00PM-11:15PM ~0.5 gallon per pot Gave foliar spray (10:00AM): * 1 Gallon RO Water (EC 0.08) * 10ML CalMag+ per Gallon * 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize * PH 6.0 * EC 1.19 Reservoir: * tested 10:30PM * 2.51 EC * 5.8 PH * 74.48F (Had water jugs sitting outside so temp is a little high. Temps are gradually falling and expect they'll normalize by morning) * ~20 gallons * No Topping Off (Fresh Reservoir) Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) ** 10:00AM (reduced intensity from 100% to 50% to give foliar spray) ** 12:00PM (Increased intensity to 65%) ** 1:00PM (Increased intensity to 85%) ** 02:00PM (Increased intensity to 100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-75F (69F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 45%-60% (55% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60% RH (Lights Off) ~1227PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~845PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 40 - March 21, 2021 Light chores in the garden today. * Light pruning: Cleaned up small leaves at the bottom of the canopy not able to receive any light. Also removed a few large fan leaves smothering nodes at top of canopy. * Topped off reservoir with additional 12-gallons. ** CalMag+ - 5ML per gallon ** Mills Nutrients Vitalize - 0.5ML per Gallon ** Mills Nutrients Basis A - 15ML per Gallon ** Mills Nutrients Basis B - 15ML per Gallon ** Mills Nutrients Start-R - 4ML per Gallon ** H2O2 - 10ML per gallon ** 1.25ML PHup per gallon Watering: 03:00AM-3:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 11:00AM-11:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 7:00PM-7:10PM ~0.33 gallons per pot Gave foliar spray (9:00AM): * 1 Gallon RO Water (EC 0.08) * 10ML CalMag+ per Gallon * 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize * PH 6.0 * EC 1.19 Reservoir: * tested 10:00PM * 2.46 EC * 5.8 PH * 69.26F * ~20 gallons * Topped off with 12-gallons Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) ** 9:00AM (reduced intensity from 100% to 50% to give foliar spray) ** 10:00AM (Increased intensity to 75%) ** 11:00AM (Increased intensity to 100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-75F (70F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 45%-60% (57% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60% RH (Lights Off) ~1293PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~800PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 41 - March 22, 2021 Just another day of watching the grass grow. Increased CO2 slightly to keep above 1200PPM. Also slightly adjusted A/C schedule to bring temps up to 78F-80F during lights on and 66F lights off. Turned humidity down slightly to keep it closer 50%. * Topped off reservoir to ~20-gallons. ** CalMag+ - 5ML per gallon ** Mills Nutrients Vitalize - 0.5ML per Gallon ** Mills Nutrients Basis A - 15ML per Gallon ** Mills Nutrients Basis B - 15ML per Gallon ** Mills Nutrients Start-R - 4ML per Gallon ** H2O2 - 10ML per gallon ** 1.25ML PHup per gallon Watering: 03:00AM-3:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 11:00AM-11:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 7:00PM-7:10PM ~0.33 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 9:30PM * 2.50 EC * 5.8 PH * 69.26F * ~20 gallons * Topped off to ~20-gallons Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-75F (75F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 45%-60% (59% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60% RH (Lights Off) ~1274PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~680PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 42 - March 23, 2021 Yesterday evening modified CO2 and Temperature settings in the room. CO2 has consistently been between 1200-1300 ppm with temps ramping up to 81F during lots on today. (Using scheduler with A/C to gradually increase temps when lights first come on and decrease them last couple hours before lights off). Girls seem to be liking it. Can see signficant difference in growth since yesterday. Last week, before modifying resevoir to DTW config, I noticed what looked like could be Zinc / Iron deficiency mainly in F7 (maybe mag, not 100% sure). It was only impacting newest growth with yellowing in the leaves. Don't believe it has spread to new leaves, but as leaves get larger definitely looks more obvious. Continuing to monitor and watch for any further advancement of issue. Gave foliar spray (9:30AM): * 1 Gallon RO Water (EC 0.08) * 10ML CalMag+ per Gallon * 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize * PH 6.0 * EC 1.19 Watering: 03:00AM-3:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 11:00AM-11:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 7:00PM-7:10PM ~0.33 gallons per pot Reservoir: * tested 9:30PM * 2.51 EC * 5.8 PH * 74.1F (with ambient temps being higher, res temp is higher as well) * ~12 gallons remaining * No topping off today Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) ** 9:30AM (Reduced light intensity to 50% for foliar spray) ** 10:30AM (Increased light intensity to 75%) ** 11:30AM (Inceased light intensity to 100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-81F (75F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 50%-65% (61% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60%-70% RH (Lights Off) ~1303PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~780PPM CO2 (Lights Off) Day 43 - March 24, 2021 Gave foliar spray (8:30AM): * 1 Gallon RO Water (EC 0.08) * 10ML CalMag+ per Gallon * 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize * PH 6.0 * EC 1.19 Watering: 03:00AM-3:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 11:00AM-11:10AM ~0.33 gallons per pot 7:00PM-7:10PM ~0.33 gallons per pot Mixed of nutrient solution: ** 20-gallons RO water (0.05 EC) ** 10ML h2o2 per gallon ** 5ML Botanicare Cal-mag+ per gallon (0.54 after Cal-Mag) ** 0.5ML Mills Nutrients Vitalize ** 12ML Mills Nutrients Basis A & B per gallon ** 4ML Mills Nutrients Start-R ** 1.35 pHup (bring PH from 5.1 to 5.8) ** 2.03 EC Reservoir: * Added ~15-gallons of new mix to top off 20-gallons (7:30PM) * tested 8:00PM * 2.19 EC * 5.8 PH * 69.98F Lights: * Gavita LEDs On 20-hours (8:00AM - 4:00AM) ** 8:00AM Lights On (100%) ** 8:30AM (Reduced light intensity to 50% for foliar spray) ** 9:30AM (Increased light intensity to 75%) ** 10:30AM (Inceased light intensity to 100%) * Gavita LEDs Off 4-hours (4:00AM - 8:00AM) * UV Bars Off 24-hours Air control: 69F-82F (79F AVG) (Lights On) 66F (Lights Off) 50%-65% (56% AVG) humidity (Lights On) 60%-70% RH (Lights Off) ~1217PPM CO2 (Lights On) ~810PPM CO2 (Lights Off)

Drunken Bitch Slap has been growing great bbn under the Hortibloom Solux 350. I just changed her solution today. She is in the midst of bulking now. Super frosty and sticky buds. It looks like vg it is gonna be a excellent smoke. She probably has about 3 weeks left till harvest. Everything is going great. Thank you Hortibloom, and Aeque Genetics. 🤜🏻🤛🏻💪🏻❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

Still chugging along. I think she's going to be a big one.

All most time to start flushing I will do a 2 week flush

Starting uv-b light

Empezamos un nuevo cultivo, se vienen unos meses de puro disfrute y cariños para estas niñas 👍