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D38. Growth is good. They was starting to be a bit more yellow than I like when the lights come on I added a bit more food. Jumped the ppm to 600 counting the. 140 from the tap water. I could. Probably. Feed more but. No need. They happy. The one girl is staying. To small I'm worried it's not gonna be able to reach the screen. So stripped it staked it. And gonna try. To branch it out more. To make up for it and will raise if needed. I've been. Really twisting these girls. Everyday. It has slowed growth down but the smell let's me know it's worth it. Very very sticky already like velcro. First thing I've noticed. For me is. That comparison wise my girls are very easy to make. Sticky& Stinky I've never had this much. Smell or. Taste or stickiness this soon outside they starting to get used to it. So now I'm able to really. Hurt the plant. And make it fight. Fir me the way I do it I get more sticky more stinky the smell is bad actually but I'm not sure if this is normal for inside. Already? I wish you guys could smell this already. It's got that classic skunky smell for sure but there's a Sprite smell mixed with a sweet. Taste already the leaf is very sweet and has a nearly pear taste already. At this rate. Probably gonna be vegging 80+ days. I'm gonna scrog um so really just gotta fill the canopy in but I'm not sure how much these hps can penetrate so I'm not sure how thick to make it. I got 7.5 feet. To work with and I can get the hoods. Real close to the top so I'm thinking. Minuse 1 foot for container 1 foot for the hood. And then the light distance. they brand new so 18+ or it does burn um I can get. 18 for sure so I figure once they hit the wall I'll switch the lights. First time. Here. So I'm sure I'll mess this up. But hey that's the fun part right I'm getting leafs with 9+ leaflets forgot to take a picture of the 13 one. Next one I will for sure. Got the 9 for ya happy growing. Everyone. And does anyone else. Add a month of grow time. To really damage the stems in a good way and keep stripping leaves. just curious ? I'm still giving them 5 gallons of water a day probably 50% run off maybe. More. I keep adding tell the run off is perfect. Ph for me that's 5.8 everyday when I check it. It's around 6.1 and the tds will be around 800 the madness behind this is all bro science but seems to me I only get so many. Water cycles 8b the flower stage. So this way I'll be able to really pump in the. Nutes and for me I like this style of growing. Let's me correct yellowing over hours and I'm thinking. Around. Bud time I should be able to hit these a lot more. And keep the numbers. Higher longer and keep the ph more stable. But like I said some bro science so we will see but my coco is a 50 50 mix so it drains. So fast I can really unlock the hydro part of this medium it does eat up some food and water and I'm sure this will double in flower probably 2 gals a lady everyday my thing is I want the girls to have fresh new. Always. So it's always got everything. It needs but still has the synthetic nutes style were you can still burn them with to much like I said just a thought on some bro science hope everyone has a good week.
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@pegas
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Cada dos días las riego, 2 veces con los nutrientes después de activarlos 24 horas con una bomba de aire para acuario pequeña y una vez solo con agua con ph de 6.0
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Buenas noches familia, sorpresa, jueves noche por aquí , actualizamos las power plant xL. Es la última semana antes de nuestra cosecha, el tiempo se nos echó encima y las Flores ya están echas, se preparó un lavado de raíces y tijeretazo,para sucesivamente colgarlas.( PRIMERA VEZ que se me echa el tiempo encima con la floración, jurao) Me habría gustado darles algo de estrés hídrico, pero lo veremos con las lemon kush y las northern light xL. -power plant xL es una cepa con predominancia sativa, con una corta floración,es un ejemplar fácil de cultivar, fuerte, y vigoroso. Estos ejemplares se cultivaron en 7L en sustrato light MIX de plagrOn, controlando en todo momento el PH de nuestras plantas, y dándoles de comer una gama advanced nutrients bastante básica. -PROS: facil cultivar, flores llenas de resina , flores compactas, ramas laterales largas. -CONTRAS: hay que tutorar por el peso de la flor, floración demasiado rápida a mi gusto (no te das ni cuenta). *Aquí ya me despido hasta la cosecha familia.
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This week I did some topping as well as some Lst. The plant responded well to each training
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@Ribemarti
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Dia 38 de floración, Destacar el olor a chicle afrutado que hacen estas plantas es impresionante y mucha resina!! De las 19 plantas 3 han sacado expresion de la gelato, las demas todas de la bubblegum Estoy regando con 2,1 Litros por planta con una E.C de 1800 Partiendo de agua base a 400 ms y con la tabla de biobiz y el gold complet lo ajusto a 1800 ms P.H 6,5 y temperatura del agua de riego 22/ 23 grados Ahora ya empezaran a engordar hasta el dia de su corte, el banco dice entre 60/70 dias de floracion , veremos la proxima semana los avances que dan estas preciosas, ( OLOR MUY FUERTE A CHICLE AFRUTADO)
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Still just water and some fish shit Jan. 1 Happy New Year welp to start new year off drop my very cheap PH meter in the bucket water and now the readings are off and I probably watered them today with wrong pH water Sour diesel looks cool didn’t water today soil was still moist but the amnesia haze be
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Weather is getting a bit better this week. Almost no rain anymore and much more sun comparing to last week. Blueberry Ghost OG and Kali AK still don't want to start flowering, but they slowed down from growing taller at least, so there are hope of they to start flowering soon (hopefully).
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Week 11 I though she was gonna be done this week only gave her RO water for the last 2 weeks but looking through the loop her trichomes are still mostly clear so I think I'll give her one more week. She looking great, smelling great, buds look amazing. Tried to get some good video so you can see how lovely she is!!
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@Robbaus
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Sono bellissime! Più o meno era questo il risultato che volevo, non so se raccolgo di nuovo 400 gr ma ci dovrei andare vicino, devo comunque migliorare la fase vegetativa, sono lontano dal mezzo kg che ho raccolto lo scorso anno. Ad ogni modo sono soddisfatto, i tricomi iniziano a diventare ambrati, soprattutto la pianta di sinistra, che è sicuramente più avanti di maturazione rispetto all'altra, come si può vedere anche dal colore delle foglie. La pianta più matura penso che la raccoglierò tra una settimana, l'altra vediamo. Nel frattempo ho di nuovo svuotato i vasi e messo acqua liscia con flawless finish, tra 3 giorni la cambio di nuovo e questa volta dovrebbe essere migliore di gusto rispetto all'ultima volta che era tanto bella ma un pochino forte. 🍀😎🎉🎊🍀🍀🍀
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@Krissci
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Day 1 ....mostly LST to straighten the mains stems...I normally miss this tight window.. it reduces the risk of the stems breaking later.. Will top again this week. End up with 4 main nodes.
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@Mastr
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Hi to everyone I'm not sure she is cherry cola it's more look like gorrila cookies it's look so similar but for sure good one
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Wakíŋyaŋ, I am who I am, the salt of the earth. Thunderbird is an allegory; his conflicts with other forces in nature are then an attempt to allegorize relationships observed in the natural order, such as the changing of the weather. He is essentially an attempt to represent the patterns of activity of a powerful, mysterious force in a way that can be understood simply and easily – sort of the way in which a weather map functions today. Moving from18x60x60 = 64,800 seconds in 18 hours. 64800x860(ppfd) = 55,728,000 umol per daylight. Into Flower 12x60x60 = 43,200 seconds in 12 hours. 43200x1145(ppfd) = 49,464,000 umol per daylight. It's asking a lot of Rubisco regeneration to maintain 50 DLI in the 12 instead of 18. Raised the ambient CO2 to 1200 to 1500 ppm to achieve efficient gas exchange. Not particularly recommended, but adding sugar to an indoor growing medium is a highly effective way to stimulate microbial activity, which rapidly breaks down the sugars and releases CO2 through cellular respiration. You can safely capture this CO2 to fertilize indoor crops and boost photosynthesis. While this process works, the setup requires precise understanding and management to avoid common indoor growing hazards. The plant Carbon to Nitrogen C:N ratio defines the balance between structural carbon (sugars/cellulose) and nitrogen (proteins/enzymes). It acts as a master regulator of plant health, growth, and metabolism. Rubisco (Ribulose-1,5-bisphosphate carboxylase/oxygenase) is the engine of photosynthesis responsible for fixing atmospheric CO2 into sugars. It is intimately tied to the C:N ratio for three primary reasons. It is the Plant’s Biggest Nitrogen Sink, Drives the Carbon Side, and it is the Nitrogen Control Knob. Understanding this relationship allows you to predict how plants respond to environmental stress or fertilizer. Rubisco acts as the primary storage sink for leaf nitrogen, accounting for up to 30% to 50% of a C3 plant's soluble protein. Deep Green Leaves signal a rich abundance of both chlorophyll and Rubisco proteins. The plant possesses the heavy enzymatic machinery required to handle 1145 PPFD. Pale or yellowing leaves indicate a nitrogen deficiency. The plant is actively breaking down its own Rubisco to salvage nitrogen for newer growth, drastically reducing its light-tolerance threshold. Subtle difference, but understanding is important in order to be able to judge when to dial light intensity up and light intensity down, when to push, and when to back off. An extra dose of magnesium is vital if a plant is going to push through the growing pains of high-intensity lighting. Foliar application of magnesium is an excellent and rapid way to assist with Rubisco regeneration within a plant, so long as it is applied correctly. Spray strictly in the early morning or late evening, mixing your magnesium with a little fulvic acid or chelator, but only when she gets a little limey on top. This, for me, is the experience of growing, akin to "riding the surf" maintaining efficient Rubisco regeneration through visual identification of the shade of green. Surf a razor-thin wave when balancing light intensity, nutrient availability, and transpiration to maximize Rubisco enzyme efficiency. Keeping the Calvin cycle fully charged without tipping into nutrient toxicity, light stress, or the dreaded chlorosis requires paying close attention to the visual cues the plant provides. By monitoring these subtle shifts in color, turgor pressure, and leaf posture, you adjust your environmental controls and surf that exact razor-thin wave. Nute recycling acts as the vital execution mechanism for autophagy, which defines senescence. Natural senescence is a genetically programmed developmental stage aimed at nutrient recycling, whereas triggered autophagy is a rapid survival response activated by environmental stress. While both processes utilize the vacuole to break down cellular material, their triggers, selectivity, and overall goals are entirely different. Cannabis plant senescence is not separate from nutrient recycling protocols; rather, nutrient recycling is the primary physiological purpose of senescence, and autophagy serves as the core switch mechanism executing both processes. Takes about 24 to 48 hours to notice visible changes once the signals have initiated the autophagic response. Not too late at all. A little bit of fade from senescence 2 weeks from harvest is normal and genetically expected. Send the C:N 32:1 signal 1 week from harvest for the best effect in your organic grow. Understanding what makes leaves fade is not always senescence, but also strongly linked to Rubisco regeneration. That's a whole other subject. Vital to understand the differences if you want a correct diagnosis and to transition from hobby grower to master stoner, differentiating between a true genetic fade and a decline in photosynthetic proteins. Nitrate is nitrate, whether it oxidizes or not is not up for debate. If it's not sunk by the plant you are smoking some if not all of, it's regardless of what your feelings are on the matter. Senescence is highly critical. It is the natural end-of-life stage where the plant redirects energy to ripen flowers. Properly managed, it breaks down harsh chlorophyll, allowing the terpenes (which provide taste and aroma) to peak. Harvesting outside this window leads to an "unripe" or degraded flavor comparable to going without. To initiate the response you seek, you can trigger it multiple ways, when growing synthetically its triggered by nutrient starvation, generally when the entire medium is flushed. This is more to do with N starvation than being entirely empty. Nonetheless. PK boosters are N starvation through maximizing P and K. (Generally only works for synthetic grows) Normally, a medium only holds 10-30% of its nitrogen as ammoniacal ta part boosts this to 50% as it triggers the "ripen" signal, but you don't want to keep ammoniacal above 30% for more than 7-10 days if you can help it. Its a trigger mechanism no more. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Because you are using organic nutes and you want to maintain the rhizosphere, what you want to do is add carbon in the form of sugars (powdered molasses). It's almost impossible to empty a medium enough when microorganisms are constantly releasing nutrients into the direct EC. Very difficult to initiate starvation responses with ammoniacal nitrogen. Manipulating the C:N ratio is the key to triggering an autophagic response and resulting nutrient recycling in the last days using organic nutes and without having to flush. Generally not recommended for new growers. So do what you want. But if you don't trigger the plant to dump its nitrates into root zones, you will smoke nitrates as NO3- does not oxidize during the dry and cure no matter what you do or how long you dry or cure. Doesn't matter what anyone "feels" about it, how many grows they had with no fade. "Clover steals valuable nutrients." Crop and drop the clover come flipping to flower, its benefit comes from creating an airy and porous rootzone. I don't need to crop and drop once the plant fills the canopy, she blotches out the light, and the clovers die. This is the nitrogen the microorganisms use to convert carbon for respiration throughout the flowering stage.
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@twenty20mendocino Ateam R&D Update ~ Lets Go day 38 of flower an these ladies are looking amazing! Gettin in some nice frost a the smell is insane, so many different terps Sour , skunky , fuel , gassy funk a berries 😍so amazing! Not too much longer to go a these ladies will be ready for flush , but let’s take it day by day!! Hope y’all enjoy an have an amazing productive day ! Cheers to y’all 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨
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@Scilef
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Daily reports: Day 1. • Watering: Day: In - 6.1 pH 968 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.3 pH 843 ppm (0.3 l). • Stats: Temp: 26.0 °C Humidity: 69% Day 2. • Watering: Night: In - 6.0 pH 978 ppm (1.0 l); Out - Nothing. Night 2 (after a 1.5h): In - 5.6 pH 40 ppm (1.0 l of plain water); Out - 6.2 pH 680 ppm (0.7 l) • Stats: Temp: 24.9 °C Humidity: 70% • Note: I was missing for 1.5 day and there are a lot of deficits, but look how big Heracles is! Tomorrow I will give her a Mg foliar and she will be the best girl ever. Day 3. • Watering: Day: In - 6.1 pH 1010 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.3 pH 760 ppm (0.35 l). Night: In - 6.1 pH 1040 ppm (1.05 l); Out - 6.4 pH 724 ppm (0.5 l) Night (foliar): 6.5 pH 224 ppm (0.2 l of MgSO4) • Stats: Temp: 25.4 °C Humidity: 71% • Note: No more plain water in feeding schedule. Showered Heracles with epsom salt, fed her two times (0.55 litres was not enough) tonight. I am so excited to see the difference! Day 4. • Watering: Day: In - 6.05 pH 1050 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.3 pH 702 ppm (0.35 l). Night: In - 6.0 pH 1040 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.5 pH 764 ppm (0.1 l) Day 5. • Watering: Day: In - 5.8 pH 1050 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.5 pH 721 ppm (0.25 l). Night: In - 6.0 pH 1050 ppm (0.9 l); Out - 6.4 pH 740 ppm (0.3 l) Day 6. • Watering: Day: In - 6.0 pH 1130 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.4 pH 841 ppm (0.4 l). Night: In - 5.7 pH 1130 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.4 pH 940 ppm (0.15 l) • Note: Well, it's almost no difference after using an epsom salt. Next week will be a big defoliation after Heracles reaches the net. I need a dehumidifier since it's still 70%+ humidity in the box. New leaves started to grow disproportionally. The flowering is coming. Decided to water on the low level of pH once to fix possible copper and zinc deficits. This grow is full of a new experience! Day 7. • Watering: Day: In - 5.8 pH 1140 ppm (0.75 l); Out - 6.2 pH 989 ppm (0.25 l). Night: In - 5.9 pH 1130 ppm (0.75 l); Out - ? pH ? ppm (0.? l)
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@MG2009
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09/26/2020 She is almost done, I gave her a little trim most trichomes are milky still some clear I think about a week before she is done. Hope she gets fat!
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Hey everyone 😃 The time has come , On flowering day 72 the harvest was carried out 😍. After spending two days in the darkroom at 62% humidity, they were now harvested cleanly by hand 😃. After harvesting, they were laid out on the net as usual, where they can now slowly dry again for about 7-10 days at 62%. Then they come with 62% in jars for 2-4 weeks, and then the 58% boveda packs are put in 👍. Of course, I will come to the phenotypes themselves in detail in the last update. Until then, I wish you all the best, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🍀👋 You can buy this Strain at https://thecaliconnection.com/original-sour-diesel.html You can buy this Nutrients at https://greenbuzzliquids.com/ Type: Original Sour Diesel ( Clone ) ☝️🏼 Genetics: Fem seeds- Original Sour Diesel to Original Sour Diesel BX3 RVSD Male Reg seeds- Original Sour Diesel x Original Sour Diesel BX3 Male 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green Buzz Liquids : Organic Grow Liquid Organic Bloom Liquid Organic more PK More Roots Fast Buds Humic Acid Plus Growzyme Big Fruits Clean Fruits Cal / Mag Organic Ph - Pulver ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 - 0.4 EC. Add Cal / Mag 2 ml per l water every 2 waterings . Ph with Organic Ph - Pulver to 5.8 .
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Hi liebe Community! 💚 Heute ist die erste Blütewoche in das Land gezogen Sie hat in der ersten Blütewoche einen moderaten Stretch von knappen 10 CM hingelegt. Der Wuchs ist sehr kräftig und die Pflanze bleibt bis jetzt sehr homogen. Außerdem habe ich nun nochmal die Sonnensegel zurückgeschnitten und die unteren Triebe auf etwas 1/3 der oberen Höhe zurück geschnitten, damit die Pflanze ihre kompaktere Wuchsform beibehält. Insgesamt ist die Pflanze sehr Vital und hat eine sehr schöne Wuchsform😉 Die Wachstumsbedingungen im Growzelt sind weiterhin am Optimum und Stabil: ——————— 🌞 Temp: 25°C 🌚 Temp: 20 °C 💨 RH: 56% VPD: 1,04 kPa ——————— Stay Tuned! 💚
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Es war zwar nicht geplant genau zur Wintersonnwende zu ernten, aber die Pflanze ist in ihrem Reifeprozess kerzengerade auf dieses Datum zugeschossen. Blütetag 64 war sie dann (nach meinem Gusto) fertig. Die Ernte ist nassgetrimmt auf 3 Dryferm-Bags verteilt zurück im Zelt. Dort ist der Lüfter aus, so komm ich auf halbwegs konstante 60% Luftfeuchtigkeit. 1-2 mal am Tag stelle ich den Luftbefeuchter vors Zelt und schalte den Lüfter für ein paar Minuten an um die Luft auszutauschen ohne die Luftfeuchtigkeit zu verlieren. Wenn ich das Zelt aufmache ist aus dem "light" des Geruchs ein "heavy" geworden. Heftiger Gas-Geruch, der das Clorophyl komplett überdeckt und die süße Note nur als Nuance mit sich trägt. Edit: Erster Rauchbericht nach 9 Tagen in den Dryferm-Bags: Geschmack und Wirkung stehen dem Aussehen in nichts nach. Wenn man erstmal einen kalten Zug nimmt, schmeckt das ganze nach der Mischung die sich im Zelt breit gemacht hatte. Weichgespülter Kush mit Süße die in Richtung Kirsche geht. Wenn der Jib dann brennt, kommt beim Einatmen am Anfang ein smoother Kush Geschmack, der im Mund süßer wird und nach dem Ausatmen einen kirschsüßen Mund hinterlässt. Die Wirkung ist positiv, fast euphorisch. Kein Couchlock, aber auch kein Sativapush.