20/12: Made the 2nd apical cut to the 4 arms to get the 8 colas and a full defolation of low part(i think the defolation was unnecesary but i was very excited hahaha)

wow! friends my tent 100cm x 100cm x 200cm is completely full! it is my first experience with photoperiod and I was not very prepared for it! They look great with a nice green color. I hope for the best and will continue to work hard! like and leave tips!

Fast finishing and the smell of blueberry and cheesy candy. I didn’t take a wet weight. Waiting on the drying now. This was just a run with 3 from seed to find a winner. 2 of them are winners. One of blueberry candy and the other smells literally like a mf cat pissed on it. I’m guessing from these 3 shmedium plants will put out about 1.5lbs. We will see in a couple more weeks. It looks gorgeous though. This was just a test run with a few from seed to pick out the winners. I’ll be doing a full run in my 5 x 10 tent my next grow and I will be actually doing a full diary. More to come on another diary.

I've been giving these plants some extra car the last week, adjusting the net, branches, opening up areas for light to seep through the canopy. They started taking water more frequently (about .25-.3 per day) so I've been giving them about a 1/2 gallon every 48 hour span. The bud sites are starting to fill in really nice, the garlic is definitely my early pick for heaviest yield in the tent with almost 3 times the amount of bud sites as the other plants. The dark passenger really started stretching this week, having to be re weaved into the net twice in 72 hours! The blood diamond is still slowly catching up to the rest so I move it away from the other 1 extra square, hopefully it will have enough room without having to take out any branches on the other plants. The smell is weak but very noticeable, have a light skunky/pine smell starting to develop in the tent. I'll be starting to add growganica incredible bulk in small doses this upcoming week.

Not particularly growing for speed or any dedicated reason this time round, just adding water and a abundande of positivity, gotta admit I do like the autoseed logo. Off we go again into the magical forest. (Arthrospira platensis) cultivated in high-alkaline, mineral-rich water in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. It is renowned for having a higher nutrient content, including more carotenoids and essential fats, compared to other spirulina brands. It is frequently cited as a "complete food" due to its dense concentration of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and pigments. The nutritional profile of standard dried Spirulina platensis biomass. 3kg of spirulina powder has an approximate NPK ratio of 10-2-1 (or 10% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 1% Potassium). Here is the breakdown of the nutrient content for 3kg of powder: Nitrogen (N): ~300g (10% of total mass) Phosphorus (P): ~60g (roughly 2% of total mass) Potassium (K): ~30g (roughly 1% of total mass) 3kg of spirulina powder is more than enough nitrogen for 4 cannabis plants in a 100-gallon pot—in fact, it is likely excessive and could cause severe nutrient burn or toxicity if not properly managed. Spirulina has a very high protein content (46% to 63% dry weight), which translates to a significant nitrogen source. It is often described as a 5-1-1 NPK fertilizer. 3kg (3000g) of powder in 100 gallons means 30g per gallon. General organic recommendations for potent amendments (like frass) are often around 1–3 tablespoons per gallon. 30g of powder is roughly 2-3 tablespoons, making this a very high-strength application rate if added all at once. Balance this with calcium/magnesium, and organic nutrient delivery in soil growing can lead to deficiencies in these nutrients. Not all of that 100 gallon is used, so figuring out precise measurements was ballpark, but there is about 10kg of engineered biochar in that pot. Mostly in the top half. Ideally, I'd have 25kg in a full active 100-gallon, but......... don't mess with something that is not broken. Roots do not utilize the entire 100 gallons. This has been a couple of years of trial and error, mostly error. The amount of cations you can add in grams depends entirely on the specific cation exchange capacity (CEC) of your biochar and the type of cation being added. Biochar CEC values vary widely, typically ranging from 4 to over 300cmolc/kg. Multiple Biochars in use, ranging upwards of 100cmolc/km. Different cations have different atomic weights Potassium K+ 39.1g/mol. Calcium Ca2+ 40.1g/mol. Magnesium Mg2+ 24.3g/mol. Nitrogen NH4+ 18.04g/mol. You get more nitrogen bang for your buck. It all depends on the CEC of the biochar you use, but brrrrrrrrrr roughly I'm looking at 500-600 grams worth of elemental cation exchange capacity, give or take. That's just for the biochar alone. Elemental cation exchange capacity refers to the ability of materials—such as soil, minerals, and biochar to adsorb, hold, and release positively charged ions Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, Al3+, and Zn2+. This capacity is a critical measure of nutrient availability in soil and energy density in electrochemical systems. Added calmag 2:1 to complement spirulina. Calcium (Ca): Approximately 150g - 300g of elemental calcium. Magnesium (Mg): Approximately 75g - 150g of elemental magnesium. So long as pH stays in 6.3 to 6.7 ish, the plant will unlock hydrogen. Plants will be able to cycle CEC for their own needs. Hydrogen ion pumping (proton pumping) is a fundamental mechanism used by plant roots to facilitate the cycling of nutrients within a medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), directly increasing nutrient availability. A growing medium's Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) does not contribute directly to Electrical Conductivity (EC). CEC represents potential nutrient storage, while EC represents active nutrients in the water/soil solution. A medium with a high CEC can hold many nutrients, but if there is no water present, the EC will be low. 98% of plant nutrient uptake comes directly from the soil solution. 2% of nutrient uptake is directly from soil particles. Nutrients held on exchange sites (CEC) are not directly measured by EC until they are released into the soil solution through exchange with other ions (e.g., hydrogen ions from roots or fertilizer). Plants source the H+ ions (protons) used in cation exchange primarily by exuding carbon sugars into the rhizosphere, then microorganisms perform root respiration, which reacts with soil water to form carbonic acid H2CO3 that dissociates into H+ and bicarbonate. Roots also actively pump out H+ ions directly to acidify the rhizosphere, plants trade hydrogen produced through metabolism for essential nutrients held by the soil. In plant cells, the H+ (protons) used in proton pumping across the plasma membrane come primarily from the cytoplasm (cytosol). The protons are derived from internal cellular sources, including metabolic processes that release H+, and the regulation of intracellular pH homeostasis. Distilled water is highly useful in managing the electrical conductivity (EC) of a growing medium by allowing for precise control over nutrient concentration and assisting in the mobilization of nutrients from the cation exchange capacity (CEC) into the active, plant-available nutrient solution. Just add water & positive energy. Potential hydrogen. pH. + - , potential charge balance for hydrogen. So long as there is adequate oxygen in the soil and air and water moves at a decent interval, its practically impossible for the pH to skew in a soil that is taking in oxygen and releasing CO2 and nitrogen, I say practically, but meh, even with plenty of oxygen, the process of converting ammonium NH4+ to nitrate NO3- by bacteria releases hydrogen ions H+, which directly causes acidification (lowering pH). While water movement is necessary, consistent water moving through the soil can leach away basic cations Ca2+, Mg2+, K+, Na+, leaving behind acidic hydrogen and aluminum ions, causing pH to drop, especially in humid regions. High levels of CO2 in the soil (from intense respiration) dissolve in soil water to create carbonic acid, H2CO3, which lowers the pH. (barometric pumping removes that possibility) The pH in a cannabis cultivation environment, particularly in hydroponic or soilless setups, will often naturally drift towards acidic (lower pH) over time. Understand how to know when to lime the pH back up. Complex but critical. Once I understood this it helped ease the pain of understanding pH. Base saturation directly reflects the percentage of CEC occupied by base cations. Generally, as base saturation increases, soil pH increases because fewer acidic cations, H+ and Al3,+ are present on the soil colloid surfaces. At a pH of 7 or higher, the soil colloids are saturated with base cations, resulting in a base saturation of 90+%. While many sources include Sodium Na+ as a base cation, some calculations focused specifically on plant nutrients (like in some nutrient management contexts) may focus solely on the "Big 3": Ca2+, Mg2+, and K+. However, in soil science and CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) measurements, sodium is usually included in the definition of total base cations, making it the "Big 4" base cations. At a pH around 5.5, soils often have a 45–55% base saturation, while a soil with a pH between 6.5 and 6.8 generally has an 80–90% base saturation. Base saturation is considered a reliable, albeit complex, indicator of soil fertility and the degree of soil weathering, acting as a crucial metric in soil classification and management. Once you take full control of the pH, so long as there is oxygen, and one keeps tabs on base saturation levels. Its near impossible for anything to go wrong. All you are essentially doing is adding water and waiting for any sign of deficiency. Not so much growing as eliminating the possibilities of things going sideways. Can't over or under water, can't skew pH, can't go anaerobic. Everything runs in optimal cycles, watering every 2 to 3 days or as required, depending on the rate of combined ET. A little warmer, a little drier, but never short on water. All the nutrients are already there in the medium, we still focus on the water, just not adding salts, but to mobilize nutrients held in the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and move them into the active soil solution for plant uptake, the best supplements to add to water are fulvic acid, humic acid, or seaweed/kelp extract. Liquid solutions with high concentrations of essential trace elements. Distilled water has no alkalinity or minerals to help buffer or release nutrients. Adding these supplements turns the "empty" water into an active agent that forces nutrients off the CEC colloids into the solution for plant uptake. When to water? When Electrical Conductivity of soil gets low. No water, no conductivity.

All going well so far, as this is the first run with GTH and a 10 week flwr grow, it seems that they take a few extra week so to show flowers, Flowers are showing now . I have been bending the tops down to allow the nodes to turn up to encourage more individual heads . MY canopy Is full now . I HAVE removed a lot of leaves to let the light penetrate through the canopy. I am happy 😊 I will start giving some mills c4 that I have left , it is a gentle pk, next week I will give them monster bloom as it is a heavy pk, I am just building them up

Well it seems to be slowing down in length over the past few days, just hit 21". Hoping it doesn't get any taller as I've had to keep adding spacers to my spacebucket. I've still got some spots which I'm thinking could be light/heat stress. I'm adding cal-mag with my nutes at ph 6.3, flush a couple weeks back showed ph 6.3 runoff too so I believe it's not a lockout issue, hoping the community can chime in. Hoping to see the buds fill out more with some frosty leaves soon.

Okay so greedy finally decided to show me she’s a girl - I’m beyond chuffed ngl. She’s ready for the flip soon but I still have two others playing catch up so she’s gonna be stuck vegging for another couple weeks. I feel pretty lucky I don’t know wether these are just super bag seeds but I’ve had no issues with them considering they’re in my closet and I’ve been pretty much just doing everything by eye without the proper equipment. Happy days✌️

I've defoliated to keep them short and to keep good light penetration with the bonus of lower humidity. Little buds are starting to form

This week was good did some defoliation and training to get some more growth out of side branches turn dem to crown......the baby that's in full flower is fatten up don't kno how much more fatter she will get jus have to wait and see...until then happy growing

I only have a video and a few pictures for this week because I was on vacation. But the person who watered my plants made a video for me. Ganja is getting LST, Snoopy is being left naturally growing because she needs the height for the spot she's at. Both are doing very well. Unfortunately they got attacked by wasps, but they're pushing through the stress. Ganja got attacked a bit worse.

Gracias al equipo de MSNL Seeds, Marshydro, XpertNutrients y Trolmaster sin ellos esto no sería posible. 💐🍁RS11: RS11 es uno de nuestros nuevos híbridos 50/50 perfectamente equilibrados. Creamos RS11 cruzando Pink Guava x OZK x Sunset Sherbet con la intención de crear una variedad que ofrezca medidas iguales de efectos edificantes y relajantes. Aclamada como una de las variedades más sabrosas del mercado, su sabor agrio y dulce a bayas viene con un potente rango de THC del 27% al 31%. 💡TS-3000 + TS-1000: se usaran dos de las lámparas de la serie TS de Marshydro, para cubrir todas las necesidades de las plantas durante el ciclo de cultivo, uso las dos lámparas en floracion para llegar a toda la carpa de 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80. https://marshydro.eu/products/mars-hydro-ts-3000-led-grow-light/ 🏠 : Marshydro 1.50 x 1.50 x 1.80, carpa 100% estanca con ventanas laterales para llegar a todos los lugares durante el grow https://marshydro.eu/products/diy-150x150x200cm-grow-tent-kit 🌬️💨 Marshydro 6inch + filtro carbon para evitar olores indeseables. https://marshydro.eu/products/ifresh-smart-6inch-filter-kits/ 🍣🍦🌴 Xpert Nutrients es una empresa especializada en la producción y comercialización de fertilizantes líquidos y tierras, que garantizan excelentes cosechas y un crecimiento activo para sus plantas durante todas las fases de cultivo. Consigue aqui tus Nutrientes: https://xpertnutrients.com/es/shop/ 💻 Trolmaster Tent-X TCS-1 como controlador de luz, optimiza tu cultivo con la última tecnología del mercado, desde donde puedes controlar todos los parametros. https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1 📆 Semana 1: Ha sido una buena semana, ella ha dado otro gran cambio en su lugar definitivo 😎. La carpa está ocupada al 75% y comienza una floracion explosiva gracias a @Marshydro y @Xpertnutrients y @Trolmaster con esta gran genética 💪. A partir de ahora se riega manualmente con las dosis recomendadas por el fabricante.

🌱 Folder 09 | Candy Rain Auto Week 1 – Finding Her Rhythm Welcome to the first chapter of Candy Rain Auto in the 8×8 Adventure. Unlike many of her neighbors, Candy Rain didn’t have the easiest start. She entered the room a few days later than the rest of the project, immediately placing herself at a slight disadvantage on paper. But plants don’t read calendars, and every phenotype writes its own story. The purpose of the 8×8 Adventure has always been exactly this: documenting every individual plant honestly, allowing each genetic to express itself naturally under identical conditions. There are no races here. Every plant is given the same opportunity to demonstrate what it is capable of. Already during this first week, Candy Rain is proving that patience is often rewarded. While initially producing only simple juvenile leaves, she quickly transitioned into healthy three-finger leaves, with each new set arriving larger, wider and noticeably more vigorous than the last. The journey has only just begun. ⸻ 🌿 Grow Environment The entire room remains carefully controlled to provide every cultivar with the same stable environment. Environmental Conditions * 🌡️ Day Temperature: 27°C * 🌙 Night Temperature: 25°C * 💧 Relative Humidity: 55% * 🌱 Substrate Temperature: 21°C * 💦 Nutrient Solution Temperature: 20°C * ⚡ EC: 1.3 * pH: 6.0 * 💨 CO₂: 666 ppm * 💡 Light Cycle: 12 / 12 From Seed * ? Pot Size: 15 Litres Because Candy Rain emerged slightly later than the rest of the room, irrigation has been adjusted specifically to her needs. Rather than following the volume given to the larger plants, watering remains concentrated around the young root zone, encouraging the roots to actively search through the substrate while avoiding unnecessary saturation. ⸻ 🌿 Nutrition Candy Rain is receiving exactly the same Plagron Terra program as the rest of the garden, simply scaled appropriately for her stage of development. Feeding Schedule * Terra Grow — 1.8 ml/L * Power Roots — 1 ml/L * Pure Zym — 1 ml/L * Sugar Royal — 1 ml/L * pH Plus — adjusted when necessary * Lemon Kick — adjusted when necessary The objective during these first weeks isn’t rapid top growth—it’s establishing a healthy root system capable of supporting explosive development once flowering begins. A strong foundation always pays dividends later. ⸻ 🌱 Plant Development Watching this week’s progression has been incredibly satisfying. The earliest photographs show a delicate young seedling still carrying its juvenile characteristics. By the end of the week, however, the transformation is obvious. The stem has thickened considerably. Leaf spacing has become more symmetrical. The newest growth appears increasingly vigorous. Most encouraging of all is the transition into beautifully formed three-finger leaves, signalling that the plant has fully entered active vegetative development. Each new node displays noticeably more energy than the previous one, suggesting that the initial establishment period is already behind her. Despite being the smallest plant in the room, she doesn’t appear weak. Quite the opposite—she appears determined. ⸻ 📸 Behind This Week’s Photos Sometimes the smallest plants create the most rewarding photographs. The early overhead images capture a tiny seedling standing almost alone within a large container, emphasizing just how much potential still lies beneath the surface. As the week progresses, every photograph tells a different story. The side profiles reveal a stem becoming stronger each day, while the overhead shots beautifully document the increasing symmetry of the canopy. One of my favorite moments is seeing those first fully developed three-finger leaves spreading confidently across the frame. They’re small, but perfectly formed, and they represent the moment where Candy Rain truly begins her journey. Macro photography reminds us that growth doesn’t always happen dramatically. Sometimes the biggest victories are measured in millimetres. ⸻ 🌿 Looking Forward Next week should be particularly exciting. With the root system now becoming established, I expect noticeably faster vertical growth, larger fan leaves and shorter intervals between new nodes. The gap separating Candy Rain from the rest of the room should gradually begin to shrink. Autos often surprise us with sudden bursts of development once they settle into their final containers, and there are already signs that she may be preparing for exactly that. Her story isn’t about catching up. It’s about revealing what she’s capable of. ⸻ 💚 Thank You As always, thank you to every single person following this adventure. Whether you’ve been here since day one or you’ve only just discovered this diary, your encouragement, feedback and conversations are what make documenting every week so rewarding. This project isn’t simply about growing plants—it’s about learning together, sharing experiences and celebrating every stage of the journey. A huge thank you to GrowDiaries for providing a platform where growers from all over the world can learn from one another and document their passion. My sincere thanks also go to Plagron for providing the Terra nutrient line that is powering this entire 8×8 Adventure. Their products continue to deliver consistency, simplicity and reliability throughout every stage of growth. Finally, thank you to the incredible breeders whose genetics make projects like this possible. Every seed carries its own personality, and watching those differences unfold under identical conditions is one of the most fascinating parts of this journey. And of course… Growers Love and, Thank you for taking the time to follow along. One week at a time. One photograph at a time. One plant at a time. The 8×8 Adventure is only just getting started. 🌱💚

Day 48 of flower. Start of week 8. Almost done maybe week or two.

So far a very easy grow, but I expect to see a nitrogen deficiency after having grown this cultivar before

5.haftadan selamlar. Ilk green room deneyisimde isiklar tam bitkilerin ustune oturmuyor ama someklerin daha fazla sisecegini umuyorum. Son kez big bug verildi.overdrive ile desteklenicek tuz gibi thc birikimi.

Unknown 1 has come to it’s end going a total wet weight of 288.44g with stems see what the end result is same as the other had a haircut then will tidy up once dry want to dry a slow as possible thanks for viewing.

The plants were fed 3 days ago for the last time.. after the soil has dried, only flawless finish will go (probably from tomorrow) for the next 10-12 days, how long will it last... Glookies has a strong, exotic smell, it smells a lot like melon, sometimes a little like coffee... the smell is intense and can be felt even at 40-50 meters, especially at night... it is currently in full potency, some 90% trichomes are cloudy-milky and sometimes amber, when it is removed it will be exactly what an indica dominant hybrid should be... Dos Si Dos 33# also smells a bit like melon, but I think it will completely lose that smell by the end, no lime, citrus and mint as it says, it smells mostly like gelato, which makes sense because it's genetics,but I like it...it's like I planted gelato lol...but unfortunately I won't leave it as long as it requires because the weather won't allow it, I'll take it down in 12 days at the latest because after that the temperatures will go up to 3 degrees Celsius at night, the humidity will go over 70 , it's going to rain, there's no point in keeping it longer than that, I'm just increasing the risk of mold, and it's not like I haven't already thrown away a couple of moldy heads...50% of the trichomes are cloudy-milky, the rest are transparent and some amber... I hope that by the end it will be able to achieve at least full potency because time will not allow for more amber These plants are real viking warriors, they didn't miss a bit of stress, but thank the dear Gods, it was reflected in the potency, and not in the production of seeds... this season is the worst season I've ever experienced, and so are my plants ...throughout the season they were under stress, and I was under even more stress...the weather in May and June was cold, without enough sun, temperatures were low, constant rain, ice and storms...after that came abnormal temperatures that easily exceeded 60 degrees Celsius in the direct sun....drought for almost 3 months, without a drop of rain, on the hottest days some plants drank 100+ liters of water, including food, I couldn't believe it with my own eyes... outdoor this year cost me more than if I did indoor... there were a lot of storms throughout the season... the last storm completely uprooted 3 of my plants and I had to take them down... of course I didn't manage to cut that much grass in time, so I ended up with over 600 g of dry moldy gorilla zkittlez( that's about it, the quarter that I cut gave 150 grams of dry matter, so I realized that there was no reason to continue cutting) it got worse because I didn't have time to cut it, and it was soaked from the rain... I still can't complain even if I I don't like the smell, I'm not a fan, it's potent and the work is relaxing and divine, I managed to save about 20 grams without it being touched at all... I have more strains that have been in jars for some time, but this is not the place for them now, I will certainly include some footage of them in jars as well...all the strains are superb and each is beautiful in its own way...I couldn't stop I decide on just one... dos si dos 33, runtz x layer cake, glookies and mimosa x orange punch I'm definitely planting again in the future.. I'm also interested in what barney's amnesia lemon is like because I really like this one, so next year I'll probably plant it too Dos si dos is about 120 cm tall, glookies 2 m These two plants had additional stress unlike the others which also didn't suffer...they were in smart pots, staked and one morning I go for a tour and see the plant broken, and the pot torn all the way, like a beast that was there.. .did some wild animal fly over there and got tangled up and uprooted it all... and it was as if someone had cut it with a knife, after a few days the same with the other plant, the same completely... then I seriously started to i mean someone is casting a spell on me lol then they were transplanted in early bloom into direct soil Then glookies was transplanted to a place with much less sun than it was in, but at that moment I couldn't choose, what is there is..

Day 37 - Everything looks good.... they are drinking so much.... i built a bit more stable light setup, and i'll need to buy afew more plugs and stuff, to fill it out ...... i organised all the 2700k globes, ready to swap in..... still waiting on the exhaust fan, so i'll keep em in "grow" mode another week or 2 .... i'm vaping a leaf or 2, and drinking "green tea hot chocolates" .... it is so delicious in hot chocolate .... my health has picked up since starting the vape/drinks... the 21 thc/19 cbd is supa healthy ... Day 38 - Getting them ready for Flower, noticed they are lacking in nutrients, so i started em on the heavier dutch master gold flower nutrients. Day 40 - Added some pics. (they look droopy because they in night mode, just turned on lights for pic) - Started them on 12/12 flower, still working on getting all the lights, gear, and globes, for the right spectrum and amount of light.... atm got - 7x 2700k (click) , 2x 6400k (osram), + 60w light panel .... i'll go get some more gear today and hope to expand it to 10x 2700k , 2x 6400k ...... I put the exhaust filter fan on seperate power, so it doesn't go on/off with the timer, but stays on all the time.... it totally fixed up any odour problems, haha ....... Added some different pics for my light spectrum ... etc..... the outside winter temp is now at 40-60oF (5-15oC) so with the 12/12h, the temp inside the tent is dropping to 60-80oF (18-22oC), abit low, but flowering is supposed to be in winter, so idk, see how it goes..... I'm new to growing, so idk how this will work out....... just working it as i go.... i noticed afew spots on a leaf, so i upped the neuts abit more, they are still drinking like fish, huge amounts.... Day 40 late - new vids - Got the extra gear and installed it all... redesigned the initial setup, refined it with proper measurements, had to get my steel rule out, lol....... got the 12 leds in and running, 10x 2700k clicks, and 2x 6400k osrams, with the panel..... it's lookin beautiful and got the exhaust on 24 hrs now, all working perfect with 12/12 timer.... they are forming a few spots on leaves, so hammering the nute water into them now... they are drinkin 1-2 litre of nute water a day each.... (nute water = Dutch mater gold one grow/flower, 800-1000 ppm 6 PH) 😎 Some details about lights.... i did some maths on it, and included some handy pics..... because i'm using cheap leds, i'm keeping the distance at 25cm, they are leds so they won't burn, and it massively increases the lumens/lux/Par, and with my home built light setup, the leds are spread out enough to keep it lower.... worked out good..... something of note is that all the led globes are built/made in china... however different marketing/selling companies from around the world... and the german osrams are 1w leds ... by far the most superior, but anyone can design and send the requirements to china to build em, haha) it's not a contest, we all work together.... haha.... the person with the best led light globes gets my business, because i want the best for my babies.... :) (let me explain- 1w led vs 0.5 w led, the watt of the led projects the light, lumens, LX/PAR etc much further the higher the watt of the led....my 600w panel has 0.5w leds, the philips has 0.75, the osrams have 1w leds..... ) each globe philips (dutch)- 10.5w internal - 14 leds 0.75w 1055 lumens each globe osram (german)- 10.5w internal - 10 leds 1w 1080 lumens each globe click (cheap)- 9w internal - 16 leds 0.56w 800 lumens light panel - 70w - 600w 30 red - 8 red 12 blue - 8 white 7500k 1 ir - 1 uv = 20x blue 6400k - 38x red 2700k internal - 60 double leds - 120x0.5w 6000 lm