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@Chucky324
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Hello. This is the end of week 1 and the beginning of week 2 of flowering. The plant is doing good and growing well. It's stretched a bit last week being week 1 of flowering. And she will stretch more this week too. The next trim-up will be, before the end of week 2, before the resin starts flowing, around week 3. Be Great. Chuck.
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@EGPharouh
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Week 8. They got their First flush. Look at those beauties. Better pictures by the end of the week.
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@DrBud420
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21.06. Girl Scout Cookies# Day 56# With a little delay because I'm a lazy stoned person, and in addition the responsibilities regarding the plants are already starting to grow, and I also have a lot of work around the garden and then I don't always arrive in time to release the update. The plants are progressing well, but now they are already hungry, so the next watering is for food. Two days ago they were topped for the third time, I also topped the two highest side branches. Yesterday was the end of their eighth week, the pictures are also from yesterday. Last night I sprayed them with SMC for prevention, but none of those pests can harm the plant outside as well as inside..first of all, the plants are much bigger, and therefore have much more leaf mass, and secondly, it is nature, there are many of them in nature, the only thing that can destroy them all are caterpillars during flowering and mold when the humidity is too high or when there are frequent rains, everything else does not worry me at all. Tomorrow I will move them somewhere where there is a lot less grass because now they have already filled this space and they can't expand any further, so in order for them not to get too long and to go wider I have to move them where the grass and other plants won't bother them. Stay High and Keep Growing!!!
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15th day into flowering- Trim some Fan leaves /anything cover canopy. 18TH DAY FLOWER- LOLI POPPING. JUST WATER EVERY 3 DAYS PH 6.5
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@AsNoriu
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Day 92. Girls will get 30 Yoyos and will be watered later. Still can't make my mind : A. Defoliate next watering B. Defoliate light and clear bottoms, too many airy buds, not enough light at bottom level. C. Just leave them alone, they know what they are doing ;))) All look too good, light are too close and i don't need any stress, but i want solid buds, still see chances in all ways and will make my decision during this week. Day 92. Late evening. Time has come, cleared some worthless bottoms mostly from Blue Dreams, installed 26 YoYos, took like 50-60 Top fan leaves to open secondary crown and thats last training. Notice : if you ever buy YoYos, theirs line is very important, mine is soft, but still thin like fishing line, cotton rope would be 10 times better. Day 95. Girls got feed, think to push one more feed and then start only water them till the end. Missing light a lot, too tall girls for my setup, but i am still more than happy !!! Think 3 weeks left till the end of journey ! Mini Runtz has nice structure as a plant and bud, next to him under fresh outside air ( cold now most of the time ) is Frosty Runtz, very potent and i think earliest finishing plant with other Frosty NoColour Asia Kalini. Other two Runtz are missing light, but are heavier producers too , so bud development could take longer. Two Asia Kalini, who show colour, look like twins, stacking very nice and frost is good. All Blue Dreams miss light and proper distance from light, top buds will be most airy buds on all plant, but i just ran out of space with those giants ;))) Happy Growing !!!
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Foi uma excelente semana, fui aumentando gradualmente as regas de 70ml/100/250 e no dia 17 já levou meio litro de agua + a primeira nutrição. Apenas 3 estão assim menos bem desenvolvidas e serão aquelas que irão ficar fora da tenda. Aumentei a potencia para 400W que resulta nos tais 600ppfd no centro e 400 e tal nas pontas da tenda. Estava apenas uma ventoinha ligada e o extrator esta semana, iniciarem adicionando uma ventoinha e talvez para o fim da semana coloque a entrada de ar, isto porque tirei-a para tentar manter a tem e a humidade no ponto, tendo em conta que sempre faz a circulação de ar porque deixo a entrada de baixo aberto e faz o ar circular.
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Started a little training, cut down the older fan leaves and topped up. I’m adding a tiny bit of root stimulator cause changed the pot size last week so it will to promote a faster growth. Gotta keep this lady low cause the box is quite small. So excited 😆
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@MG2009
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Day 69 of flowering and still looking for the elusive Amber trichromes, they are 90% cloudy no amber 10% clear I will patiently wait I want to experience the more indica feel with these last few choice buds. Update Oct 19th 2017. Seen my first amber trich today, as I'm getting older I can't see through my loupe to view resin glands, so my wife showed me how too view them through pictures. All I can say is wow! She was able to zoom right in on them to get a good look. Maybe I will have to get a computer to show these fantastic shots I will uploaded ASAP YOU HAVE got to see them gorgeous girls see ya soon peace and love my brothers.
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@m1ndofAC
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Started off week 2 of flowering on 11/19. All of the ladies look good with the Tangerine Dream being the only set of clones to start showing bud sights and not just pre-flowering. Did a significant amount of clipping and clipped most of the fan leaves on the main colas of my ladies and side branches too. I also began playing classical music for them! True to it’s genetics my Tangerine Dreams are putting off numerous side branches with side branches coming off those branches! Since flowering my Cotton Candy has grown the most. Before flowering it was just barely half the height of my TDs and now they’re taller! As for the Chronic Thunder it’s always been the tallest but in flowering it’s focus has all been on the side branches without me even topping it.
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@Haoss
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We are preparing to harvest in a week, I applied fertilizer for the last time.
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@Suemchen
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Sanlight evo at 100% Day 64: flushed yesterday. One week now and then 72 hours of darkness. Looks and smells really good 🤙 Day 67: looking good 👍 a couple of days now, then darkness 🤙 Day 69: well, that's IT🤗 The Journey Has come to an end.... 😢 Today I turned off the lights, sprayed purolyt. She will get 48 hours of darkness and then cut and hung.. Get 15% Off Fast Buds with Code: FBSUMO https://2fast4buds.com/
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I don't want to jinx myself, but man this grow is starting great. I haven't been growing long but this has been the best start I have had. This new system is working perfect. I am using 75% RO water & 25% tap. A total of 16 gallons to run this. The tap here is pretty good. It took about a day to stabilize the ph. I am handling the weekly maintenance on this system kind of like my 125g aquarium. Doing this I am able to keep the ph at the optimum level with no worries of any drifting. I was in such a hurry to put in my ac for the tent I didn't think about how dry it's been here. So for now I'm using some wet towels to get the humidity up to an acceptable level for these little plants. The new led lights have been amazing. Maybe another couple weeks and I can put the CMH light in. Please excuse the untidiness. Eventually I will get that all cleaned up. Been so busy with moving into the new house and getting this built and running right. Well let me know how you think everything is coming along. I have been looking into getting a light controller to use with the CMH. Just haven't found one that looks worthy of the price. Update: Well it's been 14 days from seed and 7 days since I put them in the hydroponic system. I'm not sure how well this stuff works for other people, but damn these are looking amazing. I think this weekend I will change out the res and up the nutrients, maybe 500 ppm. I am also going to put my CMH light in. I have been itching to use it since I bought it. I have the 4100k phillips for veg and 3100kr for flowering. Next week I will probably start LST. I don't think I am going to top these, just too worried about stressing them and hermies all over again. I posted some new pictures. Be sure to check them out and give me some thoughts and feedback. I appreciate it all....good or bad. Thanks.
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@Aedaone
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The temperatures, humidity, height, and watering volume(if measured) in grow conditions are all averaged for the week. The pH is soil pH. Any watering done by me is well water which is 7.6 pH and 50° F. Any listed nutrients are ml/gallon of soil spread evenly across the top of the soil. Day 1 we had a high temperature of 84°F. We had intermittent storms and showers throughout the day that took care of the watering. The powdery mildew treatment worked well on these. Day 2 we had a high temperature of 88°F. We had on and off rain and thunderstorms throughout the day. The rain took care of the watering. These responded well to treatment. I'll treat again tomorrow. Day 3 we had a high temperature of 94°F with clear sunny skies. I watered about 5 gallons from the well. I treated these again with Growers Ally fungicide. The warmer nights, blazing sun, and this fungicide have really cleared up that powdery mildew. They've also decided to go all in on flowering. Day 4 we had a high temperature of 94° with sunny skies. Heat index was over a hundred. It was super hot today. I watered twice about 8 gallons total. Everything looked good after treatment. Day 5 we had a high temperature of 95 and partly cloudy skies. I watered twice about 4-5 gallons each time with well water. Day 6 we had a high temperature of 91°F with partly cloudy skies. I watered twice today 4-5 gallons each pot, each time. These look great after treatment. Day 7 we had a high temperature of 88°F with sunny skies. I watered 5-6 gallons each pot. This week was a success. The powdery mildew issue has been cleared up. The Growers Ally fungicide worked great. These girls have rooted into the ground through the pots which is helping some of the 100+heat index days. It's hard to keep these pots moist in that kind of heat. Overall it was a great week.
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A few sprouting for my 2nd wave of dwarfs today. Day 45 for first few (except the one slow poke whos about 2 weeks behind). All seems to be going well nice green to them. I noticed the spots just recently i think i might have put to much ph down in the flush feeding and theyre telling me ph flux?? Got a mutant who once grew 5 fingers but since flwr has been growing only 3 fingers. i read its a ruderailis trait. Shes staying super short too. My temps. are good 45% humidity with lights on now just put the dehumidifier in see if shell work for me again i got a chance to go in during darkness and rh was upto 70%.
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@Bncgrower
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Following the plan, the girls are beautiful and were already quite big during this stretching phase. I hope everything continues as it is now during this growth and weight gain phase. For the rest, just wait for time to pass. 🌱🌿✌️✌️
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@Theia
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A very nice week for this frost machine.. I will remove more pk from her diet this week and lower her feeds to a 1.6ec from Greenbuzz Nutrients Organic Bloom. Lights are at 60% giving 1100umols average. Super sweet smell from this chunky lady. She's gonna be a big producer...🤯😍 Thanks for passing. Grow well 🌿💚🌿🙏🏼
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Servus Moin! Die Blucci OG entwickelt bereits richtig fruchtig bubblegum riechende Buds. Der Geruch gefällt mir bis jetzt äußerst gut.
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Như nhập mỹ tho các bạn ạ :))
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@CalGonJim
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1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia