Es war eine sehr gemischte Woche mit viel Regen, etwas Sonne und eine Menge Wind. Die Durban Poison lässt sich davon wenig beeindrucken, sie ist am Stock festgebunden, steht kerzengerade und lässt ihre Buds weiter anschwellen. Leider habe ich bei sehr genauem Hinsehen doch ein welkes verdrehtes Blatt in einer Blüte gefunden und dieses mit der Blüte sofort entfernt. Weiteres Untersuchen brachte aber keine weiteren beginnenden Schimmelstellen zum Vorschein. 100% schommelfrei ist sie also nicht... Das Wetter ist jedoch sehr schimmelförderlich zur Zeit. Ich freue mich schon auf die Ernte, in ca. zwei Wochen dürfte es soweit sein und und dann benötige ich viiiel Platz zum Trocknen. Die DP ist dieses Jahr etwas kleiner als im Jahr davor, was sicherlich an der Düngemenge im Topf in der Vegetationsphase liegt. Entscheidend wird sein, ob das Entlauben etwas am Erntergebnis verbessern wird. Letztes Jahr hatte ich mehr Blätter an der Pflanze gelassen. Vielen Dank für den Besuch mit besten Wünschen für eine schimmelfreie Woche! 😀 --- It was a very mixed week with lots of rain, some sun and a lot of wind. The Durban Poison is not particularly affected by this; it is tied to the stake, stands straight as a die and continues to swell its buds. Unfortunately, upon closer inspection, I did find a wilted, twisted leaf in one of the flowers and immediately removed it along with the flower. Further examination revealed no other signs of mould. So it's not 100% mould-free... However, the weather is very conducive to mould at the moment. I'm looking forward to the harvest, which should be ready in about two weeks, and then I'll need a lot of space for drying. The DP is a little smaller this year than last year, which is certainly due to the amount of fertiliser in the pot during the vegetation phase. The decisive factor will be whether defoliation will improve the harvest yield. Last year, I left more leaves on the plant. Thank you very much for visiting and best wishes for a mould-free week! 😀

Hi everyone! THIs is my first grow and any tips and constructive criticism are encouraged. Right now they’re in a five gallon bucket with a 60watt cfl light in the top wth the lid closed. BLacked out walls from outside stops the light from being exposed and keps it inside. I plan on ordering a grow tent very vey soon(2x2x3) with a 1000w led grow light.

Se empieza a fertilizar de a poquito 👌👨‍🌾🏻🍀

They’re all doing well. Seems like the #4 bag is using less water than the others. I added the Spider Farmer Drip irrigation system. It’s set to trigger when the average is 25% water content.

Green light is radiation with wavelengths between 520 and 560 nm and it affects photosynthesis, plant height, and flowering. Plants reflect green light and this is why they appear green to our eyes. As a result, some growers think that plants don’t use green wavelengths, but they actually do! In fact, only around 5 – 10% of green light is reflected from leaves and the rest (90 – 95 %) is absorbed or transmitted to lower leaves [1]. Green wavelengths get used in photosynthesis. Chlorophyll pigments absorb small amounts of green wavelengths. Light that doesn’t get absorbed is transmitted to leaves that are shaded out from direct light. This means that leaves at the bottom of the canopy get more green light than leaves at the top. A high proportion of green wavelengths compared to other colors tells lower leaves that they are being shaded out, so they are able to react accordingly. Lower leaves may react by opening or closing their stomata or growing longer stems that help the leaves reach brighter light [1, 2, 3]. When it comes to growing cannabis, many cultivators are interested in the quality of light used for the flowering stage. In many plants, flowering is regulated by two main photoreceptors: cryptochrome and phytochrome. Both photoreceptors primarily respond to blue light but can also respond to green, although to a lesser extent. Green can accelerate the start of flowering in several species (although cannabis has yet to be tested) [1, 4, 5]. However, once flowering has begun, it’s important to provide plants with a “full spectrum” light that has high amounts of blue and red light, and moderate amounts of green, in order for photosynthesis to be optimized. Green light mediates seed germination in some species. Seeds use green wavelengths to decide whether the environment is good for germination. Shade environments are enriched in green relative to red and blue light, so a plant can tell if it is shady or sunny. A seed that senses a shaded environment may stay dormant to avoid poor growing conditions [1]. Some examples of plant species where researchers have documented this response are: ryegrass (a grass that grows in tufts) and Chondrilla (a plant related to dandelion) [1, 6]. Although green wavelengths generally tell plants NOT to germinate, there are some exceptions! Surprisingly, green wavelengths can stimulate seed germination in some species like Aeschynomene, Tephrosia, Solidago, Cyrtopodium, and Atriplex [1, 6, 7]. Of course, light is not the only factor affecting seed germination – it’s a combination of many factors, such as soil moisture, soil type, temperature, photoperiod, and light quality. When combined with red and blue light, green can really enhance plant growth [1, 8]. However, too much green light (more than 50% of the total light) can actually reduce plant growth [8]. Based on the most current research, the ideal ratio of green, red, and blue light is thought to be around 1:2:1 for green:blue:red [9]. When choosing a horticultural light, choose one that has high amounts of blue and red light and moderate amounts of green and other colors of light. Not many studies can be found about the effect of green light on cannabis growth or metabolism. However, if one reads carefully, there are clues and data available even from the very early papers. Mahlberg and Hemphill (1983) used colored filters in their study to alter the sunlight spectrum and study green light among others. They concluded that the green filter, which makes the environment green by cutting other wavelengths out, reduced the THC concentration significantly compared to the daylight control treatment. It has been demonstrated that green color can reduce secondary metabolite activity with other species as well. For example, the addition of green to a light spectrum decreases anthocyanin concentration in lettuce (Zhang and Folta 2012). If green light only reverses the biosynthesis of some secondary metabolites, then why put green light into a growth spectrum at all? Well, there are a couple of good reasons. One is that green penetrates leaf layers effectively. Conversely red and blue light is almost completely absorbed by the first leaf layer. Green travels through the first, second, and even third layers effectively (Figure 2). Lower leaf layers can utilize green light in photosynthesis and therefore produce yields as well. Even though a green light-specific photoreceptor has not yet been found, it is known that green light has effects independent from the cryptochrome but then again, also cryptochrome-dependent ones, just like blue light. It is known that green light in low light intensity conditions can enhance far red stimulating secondary metabolite production in microgreens and then again, counteracts the production of these compounds in high-intensity light conditions (Kim et al. 2004). In many cases, green light promoted physiological changes in plants that are opposite to the actions of blue light. In the study by Kim et al. blue light-induced anthocyanin accumulation was inhibited by green light. In another study it has been found that blue light promotes stomatal opening whereas green light promotes stomatal closure (Frechilla et al. 2000). Blue light inhibits the early stem elongation in the seedling stage whereas green light promotes it (Folta 2004). Also, blue light results in flowering induction, and green light inhibits it (Banerjee et al., 2007). As you can see, green light works very closely with blue light, and therefore not only the amount of these two wavelengths separately is important but also the ratio (Blue: Green) between these two in the designed spectrum. Furthermore, green light has been found to affect the elongation of petioles and upward leaf reorientation with the model plant Arabidopsis thaliana both of which are a sign of shade avoidance symptoms (Zhang et al. 2011) and also gene expression in the same plant (Dhingra et al. 2006). As mentioned before, green light produces shade avoidance symptoms which are quite intuitive if you consider the natural conditions where the plants grow. Not all the green light is reflected from the highest canopy leaves in nature but a lot of it (50-90%) has been estimated to penetrate the upper leaves at the plant level ((Terashima et al., 2009; Nishio, 2000). For the plant growing in the understory of the forest green light is a signal for the plant of being in the shade of a bigger plant. Then again, the plants growing under unobstructed sunlight can take advantage of the green photons that can more easily penetrate the upper leaves than the red and blue photons. From the photosynthetic pigments in higher plants, chlorophyll is crucial for plant growth. Dissolved chlorophyll and absorb maximally in the red (λ600–700 nm) and blue (λ400–500 nm) regions of the spectrum and not as easily in the green (λ500–600 nm) regions. Up to 80% of all green light is thought to be transmitted through the chloroplast (Terashima et al., 2009) and this allows more green photons to pass deeper into the leaf mesophyll layer than red and blue photons. When the green light is scattered in the vertical leaf profile its journey is lengthened and therefore photons have a higher chance of hitting and being absorbed by chloroplasts on their passage through the leaf to the lower leaves of the plant. Photons of PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density) are captured by chlorophyll causing an excitation of an electron to enter a higher energy state in which the energy is immediately passed on to the neighboring chlorophyll molecule by resonance transfer or released to the electron transport chain (PSII and PSI). Despite the low extinction coefficient of chlorophyll in the green 500–600 nm region it needs to be noted that the absorbance can be significant if the pigment (chlorophyll) concentration in the leaf is high enough. The research available clearly shows that plants use green wavelengths to promote higher biomass and yield (photosynthetic activity), and that it is a crucial signal for long-term developmental and short-term dynamic acclimation (Blue:Green ratio) to the environment. It should not be dismissed but studied more because it brings more opportunities to control plant gene expression and physiology in plant production. REFERENCES Banerjee R., Schleicher E., Meier S. Viana R. M., Pokorny R., Ahmad M., Bittl R., Batschauer. 2007. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. The Journal of Biological Chemistry 282, 14916–14922. Dhingra, A., Bies, D. H., Lehner, K. R., and Folta, K. M. 2006. Green light adjusts the plastic transcriptome during early photomorphogenic development. Plant Physiol. 142, 1256-1266. Folta, K. M. 2004. Green light stimulates early stem elongation, antagonizing light-mediated growth inhibition. Plant Physiol. 135, 1407-1416. Frechilla, S., Talbott, L. D., Bogomolmi, R. A., and Zeiger, E. 2000. Reversal of blue light -stimulated stomatal opening by green light. Plant Cell Physiol. 41, 171-176. Kim, H.H., Goins, G. D., Wheeler, R. M., and Sager, J. C. 2004.Green-light supplementation for enhanced lettuce growth under red- and blue-light emitting diodes. HortScience 39, 1617-1622. Nishio, J.N. 2000. Why are higher plants green? Evolution of the higher plant photosynthetic pigment complement. Plant Cell and Environment 23, 539–548. Terashima I., Fujita T., Inoue T., Chow W.S., Oguchi R. 2009. Green light drives leaf photosynthesis more efficiently than red light in strong white light: revisiting the enigmatic question of why leaves are green. Plant & Cell Physiology 50, 684–697. Zhang, T., Maruhnich, S. A., and Folta, K. M. 2011. Green light induces shade avoidance symptoms. Plant Physiol. 157, 1528-156. Wang, Y. & Folta, K. M. Contributions of green light to plant growth and development. Am. J. Bot. 100, 70–78 (2013). Zhang, T. & Folta, K. M. Green light signaling and adaptive response. Plant Signal. Behav. 7, 75–78 (2012). Johkan, M. et al. Blue light-emitting diode light irradiation of seedlings improves seedling quality and growth after transplanting in red leaf lettuce. HortScience 45, 1809–1814 (2010). Kasajima, S., et al. Effect of Light Quality on Developmental Rate of Wheat under Continuous Light at a Constant Temperature. Plant Prod. Sci. 10, 286–291 (2007). Banerjee, R. et al. The signaling state of Arabidopsis cryptochrome 2 contains flavin semiquinone. J. Biol. Chem. 282, 14916–14922 (2007). Goggin, D. E. & Steadman, K. J. Blue and green are frequently seen: responses of seeds to short- and mid-wavelength light. Seed Sci. Res. 22, 27–35 (2012). Mandák, B. & Pyšek, P. The effects of light quality, nitrate concentration and presence of bracteoles on germination of different fruit types in the heterocarpous Atriplex sagittata. J. Ecol. 89, 149–158 (2001). Darko, E. et al. Photosynthesis under artificial light: the shift in primary and secondary metabolism. Philos. Trans. R. Soc. B Biol. Sci. 369 (2014). Lu, N. et al. Effects of Supplemental Lighting with Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs) on Tomato Yield and Quality of Single-Truss Tomato Plants Grown at High Planting Density. Environ. Control Biol. 50, 63–74 (2012).

Tag 78, die 12. Woche hat begonnen. Die ersten Gorilla Zkittlez wurde geerntet und hängt zum trocknen im Schrank. Nach dem Trocknen folgen Fotos und Bericht. Die verbleibenden 2 Pflanzen machen sich gut und werden auch bald geerntet. Die Pflanzen werden seit dem 20.01.2025 nur noch mit Wasser ohne Dünger gegossen.

Really happy with this plant so far, surprised how big she is and she is still stretching away nicely too. Wasnt really sure on my timings here with training as first time scrogging an autoflower and wasn't entirely sure it would even work but pleasantly surprised so far.

05/07/2021 Big bud is recovering, she is now more green with buds starting to grow. My goal was to harvest all at the same time but Big Bud will need extra weeks 😐 Now i have problems with #2, very yellow with brown spots, i raised the nutes, but nute burn started to show up, gave her a bit calmag and cut the nutes to half. I think she needs more 2/3 weeks to harvest, just like #1 and #3.. #1 and #3 have no big problems, only big buds 😄

I cleaned the roots this week with lots of tap water. The PPM drain was at 1100 and I lowered it to 550. Then I gave 1L of fertilized water at 850PPM to each plant. Then let it dry for 5 days Green house Mineral fertilizers: : 0.5g booster PK+,0.5g Hybrids and 0.3g Calcium per liter Lamp power of the week: 400w -------------------------------------------------------- Grow Room: trafika urban hydroponics 100x100x200 cm Lamp: kit trafika urban hydroponics ballast & lampe HPS : 250-600w Extractor & carbon filter : Mars hydro 6 inch 402 CFM ( power 3/10 ) Soil : 20% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 60% universal soil Average daily temperature & humidity : 24-30°C 40-60% Average nigth temperature & humidity : 17-22°C & 50-70 %

Plant is going slowly, the buds are airy and not really dense, if this goes on this will be a 100d+ plant which I don't want to do. Smell is nice sweet and fresh. No Light readings from now on since I don't change anything and the plants aren't gaining size anymore, it stays the same. Values are average of the day. DATE - °C - RH% (Tent Temp/RH) 20241202 23.5 61.5 20241203 23.7 61.2 20241204 23.5 60.3 20241205 22.6 62.1 20241206 23.2 63.2 20241207 23.5 63.4 20241208 22.8 62.4 DATE - PH 20241202 5.89 20241203 5.97 20241204 5.98 20241205 5.98 20241206 5.93 20241207 6.12 20241208 6.10 DATE - ORP (mV) 20241202 76 20241203 64 20241204 59 20241205 43 20241206 86 20241207 121 20241208 95 DATE - EC(us/cm) 20241202 2182 20241203 2096 20241204 2109 20241205 2110 20241206 2178 20241207 2210 20241208 2150 DATE - CF 20241202 21.82 20241203 20.96 20241204 21.09 20241205 21.10 20241206 21.78 20241207 22.10 20241208 21.50 DATE - °C (Reservoir) 20241202 21.8 20241203 22.2 20241204 22.6 20241205 21.8 20241206 21.4 20241207 21.3 20241208 22.0

At day 22, the girls has cut their water consumption by over 60%. the strech is definitely over. The buds are now swelling. The terpenes are showing themselves.

Build a soil kind of drys out fast to me so I started to use the barley straw to help with moisture but so far it seems good to go haven’t ph the water yet think imma start next week been using RO water and I’ve used spring deer park water couple times

Day67 05/02 4,25 lt ro water 16ml growA 16ml grow B 8ml Nirvana Total 1060 ppm, ph 6,1 Drain 450 ml, 1250 ppm. Day68 continue Def and LST. Day69 07/02 4,25 lt ro water 16 ml sensi cal mag extra Total 300 ppm ph 6,1 Drain 750 ppm 1400 ppm 500 ppfd. Day71 09/02 4 lt ro water 8 ml sensi cal mag extra Total 240 ppm, ph 6.2 Drain 500 ml, 1060 ppm.

Smells very fruity and Sweet. Very dense trichomes. Very dark and frosty buds

Getting ready to take clones and flip them into flower in the next few weeks

Week 12: June 14 2020 - June 20 2020 Topped Blue Dream and Purple Kush for the second time on Thursday (June 18). New growths are starting to pop through the canopy of Girl Scout Cookies. Very excited to see how fast she starts growing now. Hoping the other two plants respond just as well to the topping. Great week, no problems whatsoever. Thanks for stopping by. Cheers!

Alright guys today is day 18 and she is off to an amazing start.. she got her first feeding yesterday with very little of silica , cal mag and Maxibloom.. I gave her her first soaking yesterday when I topped her and removed the lower branches up to the 3 finger leaf.. i'm hoping for big things with this grow, and i'm very excited to use Plagron mid flower.. thanks to Zamnesia Seeds and Plagron for putting this contest together, it is much appreciated by and i'm sure many others.. To anybody reading this I hope you are doing well in the contest. If you're not in the contest i hope you are doing well too.. Until next time, God bless and happy growing ✌️. Just wanted everyone to know that i'm using .2 tsp of maxibloom with the 2ml of silica and 2 ml of cal mag as of this week, but for some reason, grow diaries doesn't recognize general hydroponics as a company or any of their products.The maxi bloom and silica I use are both general hydroponics and when I add them as custom, everything is good until I go to save and then it comes up not showing the maxibloom SMH .. Just wanted to throw this in here, so everyone knows exactly what this girl is getting.. These three nutrients is all.She will be getting up until about the fourth week of flower.. Until then, I will increase the dose on everything slightly every feeding until we reach that fourth week of flower, and then out comes the Plagron which I hope works out great for the plant

Well week 5 of bloom is complete, and this week brought a few challenges. Humidity in my area has been through the roof, close to 100%. My heavy-duty equipment was struggling to bring my tent to acceptable late flowering levels, sometimes reaching over 60% RH, especially at night when the plant was respirating more. Additionally, her pale yellow color, and leathery leaves didn't excite me too much. If you remember, we had a severe heat wave a couple of weeks ago, which contributed to that. But also, since I messed up the ScrOG training, and regrettably decided not to super-crop her, a fair share of the leaf problems were due to light stress as well, as I didn't want to sacrifice lower colas, so I let it go. My biggest mistake this grow, was not paying attention to her the one day she decided to stretch nearly a foot, and was unable to be weaved into the net the next day without being snapped in half. My second biggest mistake is NOT snapping it in half, and letting it repair itself. I wouldn't have had nearly as much bleaching of leaves I think. This week, and I'm assuming because nearly all chlorophyll was depleted from her fan leaves, I didn't notice much of any change from last week. Her buds seemed to be about the same mass, and the stigmas still had the same ratio of red to white coloration. I suspected she was dead, or dying, or just...done. Not all genetics will transform all of their stigmas from white, and not all genetics will have their trichomes turn amber. So, I did a few things to confirm that suspicion. First, I looked at her trichomes on various buds closely with a microscope. They were almost all cloudy, with very very few amber. That told me that she was at an acceptable level of ripeness, even if she could have went longer, assuming she was still alive. Next, I removed the pea gravel mulch I was using in the raised bed, so I could get a closer look at the soil she was growing in, and more specifically, her roots. The soil, although moist a few inches deep, was not at the level I expected, and I think I have not been watering her enough. I don't think I'll be using a gravel mulch again. On the plus side, it did help prevent fungus gnats, as there was zero the whole grow, apart from an early week when I placed some solo cups to germinate on top of the bed, but after removing them, the fungus gnats disappeared with them. Also while inspecting the soil, I carefully dug down to inspect some of her primary roots. They were actually dry, despite the surrounding soil being moist. This could explain why she wasn't drinking much if any for the better part of the week. So, given her dry foliage, dry roots, and ripe-enough trichomes, I decided it was time to harvest her, earlier than expected. Let's also not forget that I was frightened this week with some high humidity scares, so growing longer, and possibly for no reason if she was dead or barely alive, was not in the cards. I've dealt with my fair share of bud rot before, and I would rather try what I have of her now, than to wait the extra week or so for her to be fully ripe. So, that is what I did, on the last day of the week -- I chopped her down, cut off some larger fan leaves, and hung her upside down. This, of course, was after removing the raised bed. It took me a while to empty about 45 gallons of soil so I could move it, but in doing so, I noticed a lot of beneficial critters, and nothing bad. Such critters included small centipedes, which feed on other insects, and soil mites which eat dead organic matter. I set the tent to dry at around 72F and 55 RH. And now we wait for about a week before trimming. One thing is for sure -- I am very proud of this grow, despite all these flaws. She smells incredible -- like pure citrus emanating throughout my house. This is a very strong-smelling plant. As a bonus, I've included a time-lapse video of the entire grow from start to finish in the last media above. Check it out and let me know what you think. I'll be back for the harvest week for the dry weight in about a week or so, after we're done drying and trimming.