Light = bloomplus bp2500 250watt actuall draw. Exhaust is a ac infinity 6inch with digital controller Inkbird humidity controller with a ram 5l humidifier. Veg only! Soil= biobizz light mix Nutes= biobizz using the 10 week schedule at half dose this run. Heaven =2ml avti vera=2ml fish shite= 1ml calmag=2ml All nutes mixed to 1l of water Ph= 6.4 Room humidity is 60% Day Temp is 25°c Over the last week the plants have exploded with growth, I feed them 3x last week and will do the same the week. I will be performing lst to some of the plants later on in the week. More pics and videos to come. Happy growing guys 💪💚

Jetzt sieht man deutlich das die Ladys sich auf die Blüten Produktion konzentrieren nächste Woche werden sie nochmal etwas entlaubt. Dazu haben die einen ordentlichen Stretch hingelegt bin beeindruckt bis jetzt sind zum gluck auch keine Probleme aufgetreten bin sehr zufrieden mit der Sorte bis jetzt.

Empieza floracion las plantas ya llevan 3 dias a 12/12. La mas pequeña hace unos 37 cm y la mas alta 50 cm . Los riegos se realizan 1 dia con nutrientes 1 dia sin riego 1 dia sin nutrientes solo encimas y calmag

73 Day 10 Weeks to Harvest

Week 11 Update – Harvest Time Approaching! 🌱✂️ BioBizz#1 – BT51 She’s done! She hasn’t had any water for the past five days and will be harvested later this week. AN#4 – BT51 She still needs a little more time—probably another 1-2 weeks before she’s fully ready. AN#3 – BT47 Somehow, she’s managing despite the extremely close distance to the light. I haven’t held back on PPFD at all, but she’s handling it like a champ. Super curious to see what kind of yield she’ll bring in! 😅

Vamos familia, hora de cosechar estas gorilla de RoyalQueenSeeds. No veáis que pinta que tienen las flores están bien formadas y repletas de tricomas. Estoy deseando probarlas. El problema han sido las temperaturas las últimas semanas que excedieron los 30 grados. Aun así salió todo para alante Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Hasta aquí es todo , espero que lo disfrutéis, buenos humos 💨💨.

7e semaine de floraison, Application du propolix contre le début du botrytis qui a commencer semaine dernière, la gorilla a du être infecter depuis que le tronc c'est fendu en deux. J'ai pourtant pris les precaution nécessaires, pour l'instant aucun autre départ de botrytis ca a l'air sous contrôle le produit a l'air efficace, j'ai acheter un ventilateur uniquement pour elle j'espère l'aider et non propager le fleau sur mes autres plant..

*****Week 14 growth – March 6 to 12, 2021 – Week 5 flower ****** This girl keeps chugging along. Her resin rails are looking awesome. A little dark green maybe but not worried. Looking for some bud swelling to kick in!! Bud Fusion being introduced this week. Into the last phase of feeding during flower now. Nitrogen is continued to be reduced as its late flower. Keeping up the feeding ppm this week as we are getting to the end. May be pushing them a little more than I should but finding out how they react for next run. Still continuing to play with the light intensity and seeing how the girls react to my environment conditions when pushed harder. Could have backed off and stayed with 100, 300, 600, 900 PAR levels at the different stages but I have trying to go a little higher in the late stages and going over 1,000 PAR. Little more detail….. Mar 6/21, Day 29 - Dry out day - Changed light cycle to 11/13 today to help with light intensity and reducing DLI. - Light power reduced to 425 watts Mar 7/21, Day 30 - Keeping up the feeding but reducing nitrogen. - feeding with micro – 1.5, bloom – 2.5, ult B – 0.5, carbs – 1, B Storm – 2, S Storm – 2.5, Bud Fusion 0.15gr/l, Terp – 1.5, Jet Fuel – 0.5, Rezin 1 - 1150ppm and 6.0pH - 2.5L Mar 8/21, Day 31 - Watering with 2L feed from yesterday and 16L plain water - Over shot the pH - 400ppm and 5.9pH Mar 9/21, Day 32 - Feeding again with Grow – 0.5, Micro – 1, Bloom – 1.5, Carbs – 1, Magnifical – 1 - Didn’t add many of the supplements - 875ppm and 6.0pH - 2.5L Mar 10/21, Day 33 - Middle of the week and just giving some enzymes today - Enzymes – 1.5ml - 300ppm and 6.1pH - 3L Mar 11/21, Day 34 - Microbes again today - Tap water with Jet Fuel – 1ml, Terpinator – 2ml, Nature’s Candy – 1.5ml, Rezin – 1ml, Ultimate B+ - 0.5ml, Recharge – 1tsp/gal - 800ppm and 6.0pH - 3L Mar 12/21, Day 35 - Dry out day - Been feed a couple of times this week so work with ¾ strength next week.

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 28 Just a quick update for this morning since I had to move the ties a little. LST, I now have them above the 3rd node branches. Stats are normal and the growth tips are turning upward now. Stats 73F/ 63% RH /IL Vent at 33% - Lights also same as before 345ppfd highest, 330 center, and 315 at lowest. No need for adjustment. She seems to be taking the training well. Day 29 Water day - checked last night and decided it was time again - Water by weight again so no runoff to measure at about 4 cups. (4 days since last feed by weight) 13lbs even par is 15lbs 4oz so I prepared 2lbs 4oz of water. Tested my meter and discovered it needed calibration (the temp is off and cant be calibrated - so I used a trusty meat thermometer. started with 4ppm and added 300ppm of epsom and vegmix ph balanced to 6.34 at 69.8F - then splashed with H2O2. Poured around roots and splashed the stem base - sprayed some on the leaves and use the whole amount. Had to adjust lights now to be brighter so I brought them down to 18.5" and ppfd is now 375highest 360 center and 345 at lowest. VPD is normal at 1.0 with 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - fans are pointed to directly now as the leaves are starting to get rough feeling - so I moved them a bit to blow less directly Training is doing good nice upward turn on the training (making small LST movements with the ties other than than... just letting it make new branches. Day 30 Checked PH and got 5.0 on my meter(+1.25 tested differential = 6.25) Stats normal too - 73F /64% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights at 385highest 370 center and 355 at lowest Removed cross ties since they are no longer needed to hold the fan leaves- training still looking nice as the new nodes are formed with 2nd node leaves growing already. Day 31 Identified an issue this morning - went back through my pictures, identified the start, looked at the day before, and noted my changes that I took notes on at that time. Went to google to diagnose a few possible hypothesis and am now testing with a treatment. (suggestions from more experienced growers welcome) This morning the issue was brown spots on the older fan leaves. Mostly just the left fan leaf. Seems to have started 2 days ago (day 29) when I changed the lights and fed her. When I fed her, I left water droplets on the leaves instead of drying them off after a short time (I had been drying them with a tissue after a wet pic. The fans were also adjusted after the lights were dropped closer as well. Hypothesis: I think the water was magnifying the light and caused light stress at the those spots. I dont think the wind of the fan had much to do with it other than they helped dry the leaves faster as noted by the water being completely gone by the time I took pictures later that night for measurements. Test: Raised my lights to a max of 350ppfd (from 385 highest reading this morning) Had to adjust fans again since they rest on my lights. Will observe looking for improvement over the next few days. ... another possibility was given to me by Guru @Roberts (thank you) as it possibly being a ph issue locking out calcium. So I thought I might test ph and then try diluted cal/mag in a spray if my soil is too low (also looked at pics and seen VERY close similarities in my pics and those) and so on that advice, I tested/calibrated my soil meter (it FINALLY calibrated for me!)I found my soil was avg of 3 readings at 5.153 (5.08,5.09,and 5.29) NOT GOOD - potentially locking out most all nutes. I weighed out about 2 cups of purified water with and added about half ml of CalMag, ph balanced the water to 6.5 at 69.7F (my research shows Calcium lockout starting at 6.3 or lower) and splashed with H2O2 - I poured most around the base and sprayed the leaves too. I made sure to use the whole solution by pouring the last of the solution in the spray bottle over the stem and stem base. EOD follow-up Found a possible calcium blockade in my ph and on my leaves (of which are now starting to curl so I placed my fans on oscillate to ensure they aren't doing more damage) --- fully documented now. otherwise measurements are now documented too. -- second node is starting to pull away from the last top so I will be looking to top again (3rd of possibly 4 total) and then HST and bind in a new spot Day 32 Doing a morning and evening check her now while I see this issue resolved. So far no sign of improvement since last night - might have gotten worse in comparison (will check pics side by side today) but I think because it's a immobile micronutrient so it should take time to stop then reverse. So in the mean time I am doing a slurry test as a 2nd test for my soil before I treat it. I took soil from 3 different spots and made sure I got some from about 4 inches deep in each spot (ensured calibrations were still good with buffer tests) 1st test is a PH meter tested directly in the soil. After using the 2 cups of 6.3 yesterday I got 3 readings today = 5.47, 5.32, and 5.5 to avg 5.43 - (yesterday's readings prior to treatment were 5.08, 5.09, and 5.29 to avg 5.153) - still far below the normal 6 to 7 for soil and the requirement of 6.3 and above for calcium to enter roots. suggesting again lockout. So while I am checking the plant conditions I also looked at the new nodes - 2nd node is starting to pull away from the first, but not quite enough to top yet - thinking I will be able to top tomorrow evening - should be able to correct the ph tonight, so I can see if there's results in that by then as well. I also set the fans to oscillate last night, so here's a video for that now. Measurements, ppfd, and vpd will be in tonight's check-up Day 32 So I started this evening by testing the run off with 2 meters, 5.7 and 5.67 - prepared 1 gallon of 7.5 ph water and splashed with H2O2 (checked with both meters) Before flushing, I documented the leaves again - still curled and look very dry but they still have some flexibility with them - they dont seem to getting any worse so the spray may have gotten enough to the leaves most affected. The new nodes and growth tips seem to be okay but not growing as fast as they were. That would still mean that the soil needs treatment before the roots begin to die off and I end up with stunted growth overall. SO I flushed the whole gallon and noted the runoff from the sides and bottom. I then tested the soil directly with 3 readings 5.95, 5.8, and 5.73 for avg 5.826 and tested the runoff water with 2 separate meters for 5.91 and 5.85 Not sure if I should feed dunk in 7.5 still or just use that number on the next feed in like 3 or 4 days. will discuss Other than that ppfd highest is 360, 350 at center, and 330 at lowest. VPD was 1.0 with temp at 74F /63% RH /33% IL Vent Growth tips could be ready to top again tomorrow night, but I would like the get the ph taken care of first. Day 33 Started the day by noticing the lower branches seem to stop turning and the next level branches seemed to have finally turned but nearly as fast as the first. (Noticed them having a start yesterday) Newer branches dont have any signs of issues. So the plan today is to make Bloom Juice for later. Feed Dunk with 100% Veg Juice at a ph of 7.3 test runoff and ppm. Top the 4 nodes and remove the lower leaves. Calcium issue or not, that was always the plan with main-linning the plant. However, because of the health issues, I dont think I am going to go past these 8 colas - rather instead I will simply stop here and do some HST to set them how I want them to grow and let her recover and finish her veg for about two or three weeks. Dunk had 300ppm of Epsom, Veg juice, in a little over 3 gallons of purified water. I had 7.4 ph and splashed with h2o2. I pushed the entire plant into the water and soaked for a few seconds. Drained by hanging the pot up for about 10 minutes and the stream started dripping instead. Checked the runoff with 2 meters 6.01 and 5.93 with 2580ppm. Then I topped all four nodes and removed the fan leaves from under my mainline. I used LST to finger press the new branches apart into the direction I plan to move them to get the nodes powering up. Next I will wait for a day to do HST on those new branches. Tonight I will simply let her rest. VPD still at 1.0 - 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights are at 365 highest, 355 center, and 335 lowest. No need to measure for growth now as I dont plan to top anymore Day 34 Early entry to day for HST the morning after topping. So I started off the morning checking stats and health. PH levels are still low. 3 soil meter tests 5.41, 5.41, and 5.44 for an avg of 5.42 - kinda at a loss here but can only monitor now. VPD and lights are mostly the same - 74F /63% RH / 33% IL Vent - VPD not relevant today as the settings are the same and I am using HST to change the plant position. leaves are noted for future reference - all four lower fan leaves have signs of calcium deficiency but not progressing nearly as fast as the first two did, so I think my attempts via higher ph water and feed may have helped. (I know the microbes in the soil are supposed to help get past ph issues , but mine seem to not be heathy) HST used a cuticle rod from my wife's nail case and a paint stick to press the rod against the branches and smash the inside of the elbows I want to bend. LST I then cut 4 strips of garden wire at the same length, hooked the ends like candy canes and aligned them about 1/2 inch above the new node and into the soil. From the side they look level but have the leaves now facing sideways. They will turn in a day or two.

Sorry for the absence guys from the sixth week the plants began to mature a little prematurely and in advance and I was engaged in two weeks of harvesting and tight hassle because in practice they were all or almost all seeds. With most I still managed to stop at the first ones that form on low flowers, with others like Fullgas I managed to seem not to have even one. Growing FUllgas was an honor for a truly fantastic and voracious plant to grow. It has bloomed well, quickly and is truly fragrant. I'm not very familiar with terpenes yet but this one has the predominance of my favorite. Wow what a smell. I did a toppin g at 16 buds and they all grew together, some barely kept standing at the end but here we are, the young lady is beautiful, clean and dry in the room. I would like to recommend it to everyone. Music of the week Bus to Bus to keep me active and operational during operations. Light >> Marshydro SP3000 AT 90% of Power Tent >> Marshydro 120x60x180 Check IG >> https://www.instagram.com/marshydro_aliexpress2/ Buy >> marshydroled.aliexpress.com https://shop.greenhouseseeds.nl/ Fullgas! Franco Loja Rest in Peace.

Apple Pie. mmmmmm 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work

20.01.21. 45 дней Халкберри. Халкберри действительноно побил мой рекорд по скорости зацветание. Переход длился всего одну неделю. Видимо я рано сделал 12/12 не дав ей восстановиться после стрессовых тренировок.пришлось подставить 10 см платформу под горшок, чтобы не опускать сетку. Но, тем не менее она очень толстая и пышная дама. Кушает отлично, толстеет, лбрастая стимами, а они у неё очень крупные. Породистость чувствуется. Следим дальше. Всем спасибо за ваше внимания, друзья)) .

Growth is exponential now. I had to install poles to stabilize several plants, some were tilting. It seems as if they grew so fast they were leaning over. I have topped them several more times and removed some of the inner wasteful branches.

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Almost time for harvest let's see tlwhat happens next week have others not to far behind

First week of the boom season, a lot pistils are showing up, smells good and strongest. The next week I will add a little more nutrients of advanced nutrients. Big bud, bud candy, and the last week I will add a Overdrive.

Hand Watering still EC 2.0 canna coco A&B pH. 5.5-5.8Seedlings 50% 24-30 inches above PPFD 250 calmag given 1ml/l on day 11