Last week i received my new ph meter and came to the conclusion that my ph paper wasn't good anymore the last watering was ph5, probably for longer period that's where the burning's coming from so, it looks like near finishing, so only water from now on, with a little high ph to compensate the ph in the soil. All looks well, a whole bunch of tiny buds and looks very nice she also has a small baby, which seems to have rooted, if she does well she will get a seperate diary --update i pushed a stck into a ready to harvest bud to boost trichome production --update2 i identified this as candy kush i see larger trichomes within a day after mutulating ths stem of that bud

Welcome back to my Strawberry Cheesecake diary from seedsman seeds. So we've finished up week 6 and we're in full bloom! She blew up big time and I'm loving it! She stretched out beautifully and we did a little defoliation on the lower leaves to help get some light to those flower sites. All in all, I'm impressed with this auto so far and I'm stoked to see how she produces in these coming weeks. I have some build a flower on the way that we'll be adding in the next day or 2 for some added p and k. Thanks for stopping by

One of the Sunset Sherbet immediately sank, the other floated. Both Gelato floated. on 7/4 - After 18ish hour soak, planted 3/4" into solo cup - coast of main stonington blend soil. PH'd water to 6.4 an watered enough to saturate plant site. on 7/5 - Both Sunset Sherbets popped thru the soil. on 7/6 - One Gelato popped thru soil. Lightly watered the plants the already popped. on 7/7- Second gelato still didnt pop, moved soil aside and saw it was cracked and tap root growing. Re-covered the seed with soil and lightly misted with 6.4ph water. Removed the humidity bags from the sherbets and the one gelato, Light was at 24" 50% power. Moved light up to 33" and 100% power. on 7/8 - very light watering on all plants on 7/9 - about 100ml water on 2x sherb 1x gelato. Second Gelato finally popped up today. Lowered light to 30", still at 100% power

One thing to say 🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤

She continues to develop nicely. Unfortunately I managed to break two more branches, from both she recovered instantly and the branches started to heal already. (Need to be a bit more careful going forwards). The quick healing I would either account to the genetics, but would also contribute it to the rizothonic from canna, as her root system is also a lot further than the plants I grew before. She already smells super strong, can bare keep the tent open for long.

Week #14 GSC By Kannabia seeds Week #14 GSC week #3 Flower This week she continues to flower her buds are dense and tight she getting nice trichome coverage.

Beginning of week 7 in flower, only two more weeks left if they ripen like they did last time. Plants are beginning to smell, develop triches and fattening up. They're not going to get any taller but compared to my first grow they're double in size. It's getting really intense. I'm in there every day checking humidity (on the no defol side) and I'm starting to struggle keeping up with the feed. During lights off I've found the plants eat the most food. I topped up the res, added 25% more PK. I try to keep the plants at 700 ppm and in the space of four hours it dropped to 600 ppm (towards the end of lights off). I stopped directly loading with Calcium Nitrate and instead used a regular calmag. I'm about to go overboard with Calcium Nitrate again and bump the ppm up to 1k. Will see how far the ppm drops the next day. 17/02/20 Update: The plants are beginning to smell a lot more, it has that kind of fermenting pungent smell from a red paw paw but applied to a mango. Very sweet, it literally smells like I'm growing some kind of tropical fruit. Still struggling with the feed, I added close to 40g of calcium nitrate and the plants still dropped the ppm lower than when I boosted it. I find it really frustrating that Dual Fuel only sell as a pair. Part 2 is amazing for late flower. Potassium sulphate and Magnesium sulphate, it's the perfect PK boost and I don't know anyone other nutrient like it. The other PK boosters always have too much P. 18/02/20 Update: Still battling my plants and the efforts to keep up with them is still frustrating me. Ran out of potassium Sulphate and bought Bio Diesel Rhino K 0-0-15 as a substitute, talk about expensive but I was desperate. 19/02/20 Update: Uploaded how I pump calcium into my plants this late into flower. They eat more than what I showed daily. That's 100+ ppm of Ca everyday! I don't know how much pectin this plant has now but the Brix would have to be through the roof compared to my first grow. 20/02/20 Update: finally got the feed right for a twelve hour period. I'm using two times the amount of K any bloom booster recommends and I'm probably using ten times the amount of calcium easily. I'm also going to feed as minimal N from now on, I'd cut it out completely if I could but I rely on Micros for the macro nutrients. Spent $65 on that bottle of potash and I used a third of a bottle for one nutrient change, think I'll stick to using powered water soluble potassium sulfate. My main concern is that I won't be providing enough iron with the little Micro I'm giving it. Going to throw a couple of rustry nails into the res. I'm about to do a top up...dropping the Micro super low, putting minimal part 2 in. Along with all the fulvics, humics, kelp and other acids my ppm only sits at 244. Which gives me plenty of room to load up on calcium. Top up the mag cause what was in the part 2 wasn't enough then load K. 21/02/20 Update: The plants finally stalled and took a breather yesterday. Didn't upload any photos cause it looked the same as the day before. By the end of the evening it looked like the explosive growth started back up again and the photos from today will show it. The ppm was creeping up not down this time...finally over feeding them. Dropped the extra loading of calcium and potassium to regular bloom phase levels and bumped the chelators up instead. Update 22/02/20: plants aren't eating what they were. Ppm is remaining stable at 800. I won't dilute the res just yet. Still holding off to see if it goes up again. If it goes down I'll refeed the same formula as last time that has reduced calcium and potassium.

WEEK 4 SETUP - ROOT ZONES Optimizing cannabis performance requires balancing a strict temperature gradient between a cool root zone (68°F–72°F) to maximize dissolved oxygen and active nutrient transport, and a warm canopy (77°F–95°F) to accelerate photosynthetic enzyme activity and electron transport rates. There is a critical anatomical temperature gradient required for optimal cannabis metabolism: The Root Zone (68°F–72°F): Must be kept cool to maximize dissolved oxygen, preventing root rot (Pythium) and ensuring active transport ATP powers root elongation. The Metabolic Sweet Spot (77°F–95°F): The primary Electron Transport Chain (ETC) enzymes and ATP synthase complexes in the foliage require these warmer temperatures to maximize molecular collisions, accelerating respiration and carbon fixation. The Destruction Threshold (104°F): Enzymes and lipid membranes denature, causing structural metabolic collapse. Active transpiration constantly pulls dissolved O2 down through the top of the substrate like a piston. At night, the top-down pump completely stops. When transpiration shuts down after dark, the root zone can quickly become stagnant and oxygen-depleted because the mechanical "pump" is off, while the roots still need to breathe. Having a hole in the middle of the 100 gallon, in which all the air intake in an indoor grow tent comes up through the middle of the pot rather than open side panels, and having tent exhaust connected to RH allows cellular respiration to enact the exhaust, which creates a negative pressure differential that will act as a pump at night similar to daytime, but with a different mechanism. By routing your intake exclusively through a central hole in the pot and linking the exhaust to a Relative Humidity (RH) controller, you are effectively replacing the daytime transpiration-driven pull with a nighttime vapor-driven physical pull. Because the side intake vents are sealed, the tent is forced to draw its replacement air directly up through the center of your massive pot. This actively pulls stagnant, CO2-heavy air out of the root zone and replaces it with fresh, oxygenated room air. UVC 264nm duct sealed with HEPA filters to prevent contamination of pathogens. Constant airflow of 0.2m/s underside of the elevated pot to prevent potential runoff stagnation. Polystyrene insulation to prevent core desiccation, HVAC climate-matched intake, inline UVC/HEPA filtration, and constant underside air velocity are successfully engineered around every major failure point. Because cellular respiration spikes RH in waves, ensure your exhaust controller has a tight deadband (e.g., +/- 2-4% RH). This prevents the fan from "hunting" (short-cycling on and off too rapidly), which would cause erratic pressure shifts in the root zone. Using large-sized Hydroton (expanded clay) pebbles fill a 12-to-14-inch diameter middle cavity in the pot solves the air channeling problem entirely. By replacing a dense substrate core with a highly porous, structural aggregate, it creates a dedicated internal air plenum. This ensures that the negative pressure differential acts uniformly across the entire vertical column of the root zone. Often referred to as a sub-surface aeration plenum or negative-pressure root system. By using negative pressure to pull or push conditioned air through a Hydroton (expanded clay pebble) plenum, this setup optimizes the root zone microclimate while preventing the typical gas stratification found in traditional containers. The 12-to-14-inch Hydroton layer acts as a high-porosity distribution vault. Because Hydroton has massive interstitial spacing, air can move through it with minimal resistance before diffusing into the denser substrate above. Instead of air channeling up a single path, the system forces the conditioned air to spread outward and upward evenly across the entire radius of the root mass. Roots actively consume Oxygen and respire Carbon Dioxide (CO₂). In standard pots, heavy CO₂ and excess Nitrogen can settle at the bottom, creating an anaerobic "dead zone." This negative pressure actively pulls those heavy gases out, replacing them with oxygen-rich, HVAC-conditioned air. Roots that penetrate the polystyrene/mesh barrier into the Hydroton core will experience incredible growth due to the hyper-oxygenated environment. However, because of the high nighttime airflow, the surfaces of the Hydroton will dry rapidly after irrigation. This will create a localized, self-regulating air-pruning zone, forcing the plant to explode with dense, lateral feeder-root branching just outside the core. Turns one's massive pot into a bi-directional, lung-like matrix. Equipped to destroy all limits set before it with nearly zero points of failure. With these safeguards implemented, the root zone environment achieves an unprecedented level of equilibrium. The plant drives the system. High transpiration creates a powerful top-down pull, dragging oxygenated moisture through the upper profile. The HVAC and HEPA/UVC intake runs passively or under low static pressure to maintain ideal ambient baselines. Transpiration ceases(Photosynthesis), and metabolic cellular respiration triggers a spike in relative humidity. The RH controller instantly fires the exhaust fan. The negative pressure vacuum instantly engages the clean, conditioned cohesive air column. Fresh air sweeps through the sealed duct on the underside of the buffer zone(pot), enters the 12-to-14-inch Hydroton plenum, and diffuses radially outward through the HVAC-controlled substrate. Stagnant CO₂ and nitrogen are actively evacuated. This setup prevents root rot, boosts oxygen levels at the root zone, and accelerates plant growth by ensuring the root system always breathes fresh air. Polystyrene keeps the core from drying out prematurely, the physical barrier keeps the media from migrating into the plenum, and the climate-controlled intake ensures the root zone never drops below its metabolic sweet spot. In standard growing systems, a root zone of this massive scale always runs into a diminishing return curve: the larger the pot, the easier it is to create cold, stagnant, anaerobic dead zones in the deep interior. This design completely smashes that ceiling. By turning the absolute center of the mass into the cleanest, highest-flowing, most oxygen-rich zone in the entire garden, you allow the root system to expand exponentially without ever hitting a wall. One is giving the plant the ultimate foundation to maximize its genetic potential, pushing growth rates, nutrient uptake, and overall vitality to their absolute limits. Also allows intake while catching all CO2 generation in the bottom half of the tent, kicking it up into the canopy every morning, even all around with 360 distribution, zero dead spots. Sub-surface aeration and magneto-electroculture matrix: a highly sophisticated, closed-loop engineering framework that perfectly bridges plant physiology with fluid dynamics and electromagnetic physics. By turning a traditional container into a bi-directional pneumatic lung, the design successfully bypasses the biological stagnation limits of massive root zones while leveraging micro-Lorentz forces to enhance nutrient mobility. Integrated a massive copper rod with an iron core (an electromagnet core) directly down the central axis of the Hydroton plenum—and driving a magnetoelectric field at the base using a neodymium magnet—shifts this setup from a basic galvanic circuit to a specialized magneto-electroculture matrix. Running the earth battery's DC current through a highly conductive copper casing insulated around a ferromagnetic iron core, transforming the central air column into an inductive broadcast tower for the rhizosphere. Just big enough to fill the massive riotzones but not leave the 4x4 tent. The physics and structural safety of this addition alter the system's dynamics in a couple of ways. Copper is an excellent electrical conductor but is non-magnetic. wrapped the high-permeability iron core inside that copper column, you focus and amplify any magnetic flux lines generated by the circulating micro-currents. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ 38 mm OD x 19 mm ID x 6 mm N52. ⚠️ Extreme Handling Hazards ⚠️ ⚠️Keep it well away from pacemakers, credit cards, mechanical watches, and sensitive magnetic sensors.⚠️ There is a permanent neodymium magnet at the base of this core inducing an electrical current this creates a localized electromagnetic actuator. Because it sits at the bottom of the plenum (where your HEPA/UVC filtered intake air enters), the air moving up the column passes through a dense, structured magnetic gradient. As HVAC-conditioned water droplets and dissolved nutrient ions flow outward from the Hydroton plenum into the biochar, they cut perpendicularly through this magnetic field. This exerts a micro-Lorentz force on the free ions, altering their kinetic trajectories and potentially boosting ion mobility through the substrate's high-impedance boundaries. The central rod is sealed in a non-conductive jacket below the soil to allow the magnetic field to pass through while physically isolating the raw metal from moisture. Iron cores radically increase magnetic field strength, but they also introduce electrical resistance. If the current from the earth battery hits a bottleneck in the central rod, that energy transforms into heat. Given the root zone has a strict oxy threshold above 75F you must use a digital multimeter to verify that the central rod is not acting as a heating element. Copper is highly toxic to plant roots in elevated atomic concentrations. Because the central plenum experiences a massive, nightly rush of high-humidity air driven by the pneumatic exhaust lung, an unsealed copper rod will oxidize rapidly. This creates copper carbonate or copper sulfate runoff that will toxicify the hydroton pruning zone. Luckily we don't top water. Roots exhibit magnetotropism (growth responses to magnetic alignment). A constant, hyper-intense magnetic field can distort root elongation or cause root tips to prematurely deviate from their lateral path toward the biochar. Ensure input voltage stays strictly in the micro-current range to keep the magnetic flux lines subtle and non-disruptive. The permanent magnetic field has a profound, measurable effect on the surrounding rhizosphere. Placed right in the middle of a massive 100-gallon pot, the 38 mm neodymium magnet acts as a powerful bio-magnetic anchor. Because the magnet is completely sealed and safe from corrosion, its magnetic lines of force will constantly radiate into the soil matrix. In plant biology and soil science, this triggers several notable physical and biological shifts. Water molecules are diamagnetic (weakly repelled by magnetic fields). When water moves through the soil near the magnet—whether from watering or root suction—the strong permanent magnetic field temporarily loosens the hydrogen bonds between water clusters. It breaks larger water groupings into smaller, highly uniform clusters. This "magnetized water" moves through soil capillaries more fluidly, lowering surface tension and allowing the roots and surrounding microbes to absorb moisture and dissolved ions much more efficiently. The field stimulates soil enzymes like phosphatase, which unlocks bound phosphorus in the soil and turns it into a bio-available format for the plant. Many beneficial Plant Growth-Promoting Rhizobacteria (PGPR), including nitrogen-fixing strains, are magnetically sensitive and show increased activity and modular clustering under a magnetic field. The field strengthens the communication networks among soil microbes, which actively boosts the plant's natural tolerance to environmental stressors like salt or drought. Roots exhibit a subtle trait known as magnetotropism. Plant cells use internal electrical gradients to guide growth and transport nutrients. The permanent magnetic field alters the transport kinetics across cell membranes, influencing auxin (growth hormone) distribution. As roots grow into the middle zone of the 100-gallon pot, they will likely develop denser branch networks and thicker root hairs to maximize surface area contact. Magnetic field strength drops off drastically with distance. A 38 mm neodymium magnet exerts a massive effect on the soil within a 10–20 cm (4–8 inch) radius around it. In the 100-gallon pot, it will not drastically affect the outer edges of the soil, making it a perfectly sized "core zone". The roots must grow relatively close to the center to interact with the high-flux zone of the field. Once they do, though, oh my days! explosion.

The outcome of the flowering was very surprising. Flowers pumped up the last 2 weeks, became hard without leaves inside the buds, developing an amazing rancid and musky smell . During the vegetative phase; the plant grew vertically with pretty good ramifications..I did a topping very late, just before flowering like in emergency to stop the stretch: the plant was a little bit shocked but never stopped growing with a big internode’s distance. The opérations finally gave a good result: forming and developing more blooming sites. But the whole stability of the structure was changed and the plant was bending dangerously till the harvest.

it comes down this week so better post it not all pictures are from this week the latest is 3 days ago got pistils growing out leafs zero fade during flush so far 30% amber 70%cloudy it's humidity has been below 40% for 4 weeks, so it's as dense they are going to be. tried the buds, not bad taste, burned white (ash doesn't matter anyway)

Our Fruit Punch Automatic are both doing great. Remember that we are growing 1 Plant worked with the techniques and one left to grow without cutting techniques to preserve its speed. In this diary we find the plant that is growing straight, just a little defoliation. I exaggerated with the Nitrogen a little and we have some yellow tips, we will use it to explain the problems on Zamnesia, but I did not do it on purpose, it remains a small mistake that if possible is to be avoided. Small if it does not go much further now the plant is taking bloom but up to a couple of days before the photos it took ALga Grow. The comparison is the salt of the experience so the plant in the other diary will be worked very differently go and see it to compare them. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhiza Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We are administering // 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 3 ml/l Alga Grow We have sprayed Vita Race Foliare 3 ml/l. https://plagron.com/en The doubts about the compatibility between Pure Zym and mycorrhizae have been dispelled, they can get along according to Plagron experts. If someone tells you that enzymes eat mycorrhizae, which in principle may seem possible, explain to them that it is not true. https://www.royalqueenseeds.it/growing/452-easy-roots-mix-di-micorrhize.html One of the best in recent years with a very high THC level -------------------------------------------------------- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10965-zamnesia-seeds-fruit-punch-automatic.html Brief description of Zamnesia // Sativa strains are very rewarding to grow, but their long flowering times and their greater susceptibility to disease and overfertilization can make them a little more difficult to manage. Also, their imposing heights are less suitable for indoor use and can attract unwanted attention if grown outdoors. However, with the arrival of Fruit Punch Automatic, growing sativa strains at home just got a whole lot easier. Combining Skunk #1, Haze and ruderalis, Fruit Punch Auto is 70% sativa dominant and produces up to 21% THC, along with a delicious blend of terpenes. Plus, it can be grown indoors, outdoors and in greenhouses. With their bright green hues, golden pistils and thick layer of resin, Fruit Punch Auto buds always have a great appeal. When you smoke her, you will be amazed by her flavours, aromas and effects! As the name suggests, Fruit Punch Automatic boasts delicious tropical aromas reminiscent of banana, pineapple, mango and citrus. When you open the jars you will feel like you are in a tropical cocktail bar on an exotic beach. Fruit Punch Auto will delight your palate with pungent fruity notes followed by light notes of Skunk and spice on the exhale. Within minutes of your first hit, this potent sativa will stimulate your mind, leaving you in an energetic and carefree state, ideal for morning or daytime sessions, as well as social settings or creative pursuits. You can find the entire world of growing on Zamnesia and more, just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... The new strains are great and the old ones are no exception... p.s. no Hermaphrodites yet, growers, can you say the same? --- // www.zamnesia.com

Chopped her down day 66. She's hanging rn, will update you guys with the weight soon! Looking forward to trials! She smells nice and lemony and holy shit I got a ball of hash off the scissors. The size of a button but still amazing for such a small plant.

- Day 70 Checked the trichomes today, there's a lot more cloudy ones, still a lot of clear ones as well though. But definitely getting close to harvest now. DIdn't need to water her today as the pot was still heavy, but I will start to flush tomorrow with just plain pH'd water. Day 71 Just gave 3 liters water today of plain pH'd water. The smell of the plant has become A LOT stronger suddenly.

Week 3 development was steady but I would not call it explosive. The scrog net still has lots of holes to fill. They are drinking about 10 gallons last week And I saw a 20 ppm drop before the nutrient solution change out.

Lovely Dense Nugs, Very Sweet Smelling .. Very Nice ! Good Genes !

Ciao a tutti, eccoci di nuovo, sono passati 8 giorni dall'ultimo aggiornamento. oggi siamo arrivati al giorno 40 di fioritura, i fiori sono raddoppiati di dimensioni e sono gia duri come delle pepite che si riempiono di resina giorno dopo giorno aromatizzando tutto il locale di agrumi. Negli scorsi giorni ho avuto un problema di sovrafertilizzazione, dopo una mia prima analisi penso sia un accumulo di nutrienti immobili contenuti nei concimi AN che ho aggiunto alla mia solita fertilizzazione dato che volevo azzardare e vedere se ci fossero dei miglioramenti. Era dall'ultimo post che le piante iniziavano a mostrare segni di una concimazione troppo sostenuta, nella vasca l'EC era 2.4 e a partire dal giorno 35 dopo ogni 24 ore avevo un aumento dell'EC di 0.3-0.4, cosa che regolavo aggiungendo acqua riportandolo ad un valore di 2.4 e aumentando il PH a 6 per vedere se le piante riuscissero a metabolizzare meglio i nutrienti in eccesso, pensando che le piante lo avessero sopportato dato che le conoscevo e sapevo che potevano mangiare tanto tanto. ERRORE ***** il giorno 39 sono intervenuto cambiando la vasca e mettendo solo acqua con PH=5.8 che cambierò giornalmente almeno fino al giorno 41. quando poi tornero ad aggiungere i concimi ma ad una dose inferiore. per il momento posso dire che l'aggiunta dei concimi AN non ha avuto gli effetti desiderati sulla dimensione dei fiori. Quantità e qualità della resina e dei suoi terpeni non posso notare alcuna differenza dato che attualmente le temperature sono relativamente basse e preservano bene tutti i terpeni motivo a cui attribuisco il loro grande profumo che come detto è inebrianti, adoro chiudere gli occhi e annusare le cime PURA AROMATERPIA :P Vi direi addirittura per il momento di aver esagerato con i prodotti e ho pure speso soldi inutilmente creandomi un problema di concimazione

Por una parte tenemos la que llamaremos Biscotii 1: Tiene un tamaño monstruoso, que tuve que doblar en varias ocasiones el tallo porque no me daba más el foco para subirlo. De hecho una de las ocasiones me quemo una hoja del puntal y un pelín la puntita y como se puede ver hizo que la punta parezca un monstruo!! enorme, grande y de forma especial. Hay gente en instagram que me pregunta que si lleva anabolizantes jajaajja lo más parecido a eso es los nutrientes de plagron!!! Que las revienta a las pequeñas Esta tiene unos tonos morados que la hacen muy atractiva y una resina generosa. El olor es fuerte y la altura estirada es una pasada!! Por otra parte la Biscotti 2: El tamaño es inferior que la anterior, pero no por eso diría que poco productiva... Tiene un central que da miedo igualmente, los satélites son una pasada llena de resina. En esta ocasión no tiene tonos morados, pero tiene mayor resina. En general ambas dos tapan la botella de litro y medio de agua, prieta, olorosa y con resina para aburrir!! 😍😍😍😍😍 El peso le pondré en seco en cuanto lo pese 😇