Week 3 of my soon-to-be purple ladies! 😻 Everything was going well but I noticed these issues: - The girl on the back is stretching waaaaay more and is less "leafy" than her sister. Perhaps she has more sativa in her DNA? - Leaves on both girls love to twirl around, specially on the girl on the front. - The stem on both girls is still weak and the girl on the front no longer needs the extra help she needed! Weather where I live is getting colder for some odd reason (it should be the opposite, damn!) and the "purple" is... perhaps starting to show a little? Which is good!? 😮 Anyway, that's all for this week. See you all next one and I hope you'll all enjoy the photos and the timelapse! 😁

9/25 - Top dressed with 3-9-4 flower girl a couple days ago. It had been 3 weeks since my last feed. Also watered on 9/22 with Fish Shit, CalMag Plus, and Tree Trunk at my usual doses. The plants look amazing. Flowering is such a beautiful process. Can't wait for the next few weeks! I've been doing light defoliation every day to keep top bud sites in the light and also keep airflow going. Lesson learned, 2 plants in a tent this size with the way I train and top is plenty! Otherwise I run out of room! 9/27 - Did some defoliation and lollipopping today. Will likely water tomorrow. 9/28 - Watered today with my usual nutrient combo described in this weekly entry. 9/29 - Plants are SO happy. Leaves are up and praying! Flowers are starting to show a little density too!

🌿 Woche 4 🌱 Wachstum & Training 🌱 Es war an der Zeit, das Training zu beginnen. 🔧🌱 Der Plan ist, sie so symmetrisch runterzubinden, dass ich die allermeisten Triebe auf einer Höhe habe. 📏 Ich hoffe, dass sie sich nicht zu sehr in die Quere kommen – und alle Triebe wieder schön hochkommen. 🌞🌿 Ein kleiner Bruch ist mir dann doch passiert. 😬✂️ Bin aber guter Dinge, dass das wieder wird. 💪🌱 Hier und da musste auch wieder gut entlaubt werden. 🍃✂️ Ich fahre gerade so etwa 300 PPFD und werde es nur langsam erhöhen. 📉💡 Somit sollten die Triebe immer wieder nach Licht streben – und hochkommen. 🔝🌞 💧 Blumat & Gießen 💧 Ich gieße weiter nach Fahrplan: 🕒 Alle Paar Tage bei 110 mbar 🚿 2 l Wasser ☀️ Wetter 🌞 Kurzzeitig waren die Temperaturen wieder fast normal warm – so 26 °C. 😌🌤️ Aber ging dann wieder Richtung 30 °C und mehr ... 🔥 🎶 The Grow must go on! 🌱🎵

It’s been a while since last update and apologies , 3x dos si dos 33 in auto pots 1x dos si dos in all mix soil and hand watered 1x peyote critical auto pot 3x cookie dough sundae auto pot but the dos si dos 33’s are tanking along and proving very well , lovely Aromas so far , there’s a nice sharp sour lime flavour to it . Few weeks to go still and hoping they keep on flourishing as they are , this lot is from seeds so it also looks like a have couple of pheno’s of the strain . Buds are forming very well and growing big and dense. Peyote critical is stacking up nicely and doing well as always , sweet and earthy notes so far . Great structure to the buds also Cookie dough sundaes have been a challenge to deal with as I have very little info on this strain but after they seem slow to chunk up through mid flower they are finally making some gains and looking very sativa like with the shape of bud and going to need 10-11 weeks on this which I wasn’t quite wanting or expecting but it is what it is , but saying that the flavours from this is super sweet and tangy and really look forward to this new flavour to hit on .

Just got the girl flower power from nature’s living soil might add that in the next watering

The plants are really increasing there intake of water and nutrients. Trimmed leaves below the canopy and some of the upper fan leaves.

This hybrid is the result of crossing an automatic Critical Mass strain from Sweet Seeds´ R&D Department, chosen for its fast flowering and agreeable, intense aroma, with a selected strain of very fast flowering SWS25 (Speed Devil #2 Auto®️).

9/10 Went and shook the plants off. I don't think it rained. I think it's just dew. Plants with ailments seem to be progressing well and it looks like they'll outrun the pathogens. It may not be a banner year yield wise but the quality will be great it looks like. GMO is stacking up real nice. The ones in further flower are swelling more and more everyday. Earwigs MAY be back because I noticed a couple of plants where I left a tiny little branch on the bottom have been lollipopped on tje sherb pie and rather quickly too. I suppose it could be leaves dieing and rotting bit I doubt it. If they are here there aren't many and most plants are too far in flower for them to bother. They eat the lower newly developing shoots. Not big dense buds. Luckily. I noticed some pm on the gmo with pm. Looks like it's time for another treatment of k bicarb. I'll probably do that tonight. I'll keep this updated. WENT BACK OVER AND DEFOLIATED A BUNCH OF STUFF. ITS TIME FOR ANOTHER APP OF K BICARB. I CHECKED THE SHERB PIE AND IT DOESNT NEED TO BE WATERED. IT WAS STILL VERY HEAVY. IM THINKING I MAY HAVE EARWIGS THAT ARE FEASTUNG ON LOWER BRANCHES THAT SHOULDVE BEEN PRUNED. I NOTICED SOME LARFY SHIT THAT KOOKS LIKE NEW SHOOTS WERE CHEWED. LUCKILY THEY DONT SEEM TO BOTHER DEVELOPED BUDS. ESPECIALLY ROCK HARD BUDS. I'LL DO SOME RESEARCH AND DO SOME FORM OF APPLICATION FOR THE PM SPOTS I SAW AND THE SEPTORIA I KNOW IS THERE. IM SUPER GRATEFUL THOUGH. THESE ARE VERY HARD TO GROW STRAINS AND I THINK ILL KNOCK IT OUT OF THE PARK. Also thinking of switching to cha ching shortly on the toasted toffy and the event horizon that's furthest along. 9/11 I Didn't water anything today because things still seemed heavy. I'm noticing the same thing that happened a few years back. Lower secondary or tertiary branches are getting stripped on a couple plants. They never touch the developed buds they want the new shoots. If IT IS ear wigs they are impossible to fight. I put poison down and d.e. around those plantscand we'll see. It could also be rot from dying leaves. I need to treatcsome of the plants with a longer flowering time with plant doctor. I'm going over today to spend a few hours working in the garden. I'll apply something I just don't know WHAT yet. One event horizon looks like it tried to reveg AGAIN which is super weird . I just see a lot of one and 3 finger leaves. It will probably turn out to be great. The other event horizon looks like its going to be incredible. The toasted toffy is getting close too. Temps only reached 62° yesterday. It took FOREVER to shake these plants off. Time to get the leaf blower out. I'm going to bring my trich scope when I go over today. I wanna look at tgat event horizon. Pistols are retracting on the top flowers. This may be a multiple stage harvest. I'll keep this updated. UPDATE: WENT OVER AT FOUR AND WATERED. I MIGHTVE BEEN ABLE TO HOLD OFF UNTIL TOMORROW MORNING BUT I HAVE PLANS EARLY MORNING. I ALSO DEFOLIATED QUITE A BIT. BUDS ARE SWELLING CONSIDERABLY. THE SHERB PIE HAS TURNED COMPLETELY PURPLE. IT HASNT HAD ANY FLOWERS ON IT BUT NOW IT HAS FLOWERS BIGGER THAN A QUARTER! THESE PLANTS ARE VIGEROUSLY FLOWERING. I NEED TO CHECK THE TRICHS ON A COUPLE PLANTS AS THEY DONT HAVE MUCH TIME LEFT. AS I WAS DEFOLIATED I NOTICED THAT SOMWTHING HAD STRIPPED FRESH BUDSITES ON SOME LOWER BRANCHES. IN YEARS PAST THATS ALWAYS BEEN EAR WIGS WHICH ARE IMPISSIBLE TO DEAL WITH. THEY USUALLY DONT TOUCH THE BIG BUDS THOUGH. TJEY LIKE THE FRESY SHOOTS. ILL GO OUT AT NIGHT AND SEE IF THIS IS THE CASE. ITS ONLYVHAPPENING ON A COUPLE PLANTS BUT STILL. THE EVENT HORIZON IN THE MIDDLE IS GROWING DIFFERENT THAN ITS SISTER. YOU CAN TELL THE STRAIN IS THE SAME BUT THIS SEEMED TO REVEG (AGAIN) BECAUSE IM SEEING SMALL FULLY DEVELOPED BUDS THAT I DONT REALLY SEE CONNECTING. CRAZY TRICHS THOUGH. IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE HOW IT COMES OUT. I TREATED THE GMO WITH WPM WITH A QTR GALLON OF K BICARBONATE FOLIAR SPRAY WITH A DROP OF DAWN FOR A SURFICANT. 9/12 Shook everything off and then used the leaf blower to try to better dry them. Weather is lookingvyo be good for the next couple weeks. Perfect finishing weather for my two that are furthest in flower. I may have to do a staged harvest. Some BOTTOM branches on e.h. are FAT and have trichs on trichs. I'll have to use my scope. I'm switching to cha ching next feed for the three furyhest in flower. Maybe four. The sherb pie had NO flowers last week but it's exploding with really compact buds. The whole plant turned purple. I need to be careful of botrytis with this weather. I've been pretty good about leaving and removing any dead or dying leaves. Even the plant in the ten is filling out nice. I have SOMETHING (behaving like earwigs) and eating "fresh" shoots. It's like lollipopping the new growth on a couple plants. I'll becstaying at the grow from now forward so I'll go out tonight and see what I found. The poison I put down seems to be gone. Anyway I'm very grateful for what I've got. I'm update as I go. 9/13 It's sprinkling a half hour trom my grow. I think it's supposed to be nice though. I found some botrytis on two plants. Two are so close to finishing that I need to closely watch them. I don't want botrytis. I applied k bicarb to the middle gmo as I saw a spot of pm. I spent a ton of time defoliating. This cold weather has brought the fade much faster. Trichs are looking good. WENT THROUGH THE PLANTS AND DEFOLIATED A SHIT TON. APPARENTLY THIS EARLY FADE IS NORMAL THIS YEAR. AT LEAST IN ALL MY CANNABIS GROUPS. WENT THROUGH EVERYTJING! STILL HAVE THE MIDDLE EVENT HORIZON I WANT TOO TIE DOWN BUT I DID A LOT OF DEFOLIATION. THIS ALLOWED ME TO FIND A FEW PIECES OF BOTRYTIS. ON MY PLANTS THAT ARE ALMOST DONE. WE HAVE GOOD WEATHER FOR A LITTLE BIT BUT I MAY HAVE REACHED DIMINISHING RETURNS ON A COUPLE. THAT E.V. AND THE TOASTED TOFFY I DONT WANT GETTING WET. THEY ARE TOO DENSE. TRICHS ARE ALL MILKY AND THEYRE SWELLING. IM SLEEPING ON IT BUT IM ALMOST POSITIVE IM GOING TO DO A SELECTIVE HARVEST ON THOSE TWO. IM NOT LETTI G SHIT ROT AND AGTER LOOKING AT THESE UNDER A SCOPE I WOULDS TAKEN THEM YEARS AGO. GMO IS FROSTY AS HELL. EXTREMELY ARONATIC GARDEN. ILL KEEP THIS UPDATED. Decided to hold off feeding and watering. Defoliated a shit ton throughout the day. Around five I noticed that my shittiest GMO with the yellow leaves had a couple dead interior branches. Upon closer inspection it looked like grey mold. A few tiny buds were destroyed but the branch needed to be removed. Jot any big loss but if it's in the shit that doesn't matter than it's around the shit that does. Found info on event horizon flowering time. Middle of September until middle of October. That could be why I'm seeing coke cans on the bottom branches of that phenome. I've got some decisions to make. I mixed up enough water to water in the morning. I'll mix up feed in the morning. Tje garden has gotten a lot of attention lately. I hope it pays off. I'm leaning on a multi staged harvest of the event horizon amd toasted toffy but we'll 9/14 Hurries morning. Mixed water for this morning last night. WATERED AND FED EVERYTHING (BUT TOASTED TOFFY AND EVENT HORIZON #2 DUE TO THEM BEING CHOPPED SOON.) Everything got a gallon of water and a qtr of food. I had to cut a couple small interior secondary branches on my shottiest GMO due to the appearance of grey mold. I also found some botrytis in both the event horizon and toasted toffy that I plan to take the tops of today. I scoped them and I'm planning to do a staged harvest. Trichs are milky with some amber. Everything is blowing up! I'm not sure what's happening but like it previous years there's a couple plants with leaves dieing near bud sites and an overall yellow appearance. Maybe it's late stage septoria. I cant isolate it due to local laws but if I have to I'll deal with it. Nothing else had anything like that. I hace noticed SOMETHING nocturnal that can eat a small branch and leave it bare. Also eat the small newly forming shoots at the bottom of plants. I shouldve taken off ALL the larfy stuff as it draws bugs but I did things a like different with each plant this year. I'm going to go through the plants again today and I'll update what I decide. Chances are the top half of those two plants are coming down. I'll do a video. 9/15 I'll have to add pics and videos tomorrow. Last night I did a final check of the trichs on event horizon #2 and toasted toffy. Everything looked great so I proceeded to do a "wet trim" outside (ill use the leaf blower to clean up) and cut the tops off the plant. I know this injures tje plant but it also makes them go crazy thinking they are dying and the buds and trichs swell. I had one plant last year I got two harvests off and a bunch of fresh frozen for concentrates. I looked this morning and I madecthe right decision. These plants are DONE. I've got another event horizon but it's not quite there yet. I'm going to leave it as long as I can. If the injured plants pick up pm or something (already had septoria) then the flower will be used for extracts or I'll do a Cervantes wash. I imagine concentrates though. One GMO isn't doing as good as the rest. Yesterday I had to cut three branches off due to grey mold on the stalk. If laws allowed it I'd isolate that plant. Luckily since I spend so much time going through the garden I'm able to find this kind of stuff. The GMO'S look wonderful (even the one with some yellow leaves that I cut the branches off) . K bicarb has kept pm at bay so far. This strain has TONS of trichs. It's like trich on trich on trich. I can't wait to try it. It smells amazing. Sherb pie is completely purple with rock hard buds that smell amazing. It's quality over quantity this year. The big one in the 50 (I think red runtz) is swelling more everyday. I'm going to switch to ch ching soon. The plant in the 10 had TOTALLY SUPRISED ME. I've never grown a plant lime this. It started out with dark purple in the middle now buds are swelling and calyxes are EVERYWHERE! This plant is growing extremely fast! You'll see what I mean when I put the pics and the videos up. I'm not going to do the event horizon harvest until I get both plants and all of both plants. It will be a while before I finish the toasted toffy one as well. 9/16 I'm glad I took those plants. Weather is good but plants were soaked thos morning. I need to go out at night and see what is eating new shoots. Flowers are looking great. I need to do another app of k bocarb sometime. I'm suprised the pm has pretty much stayed with that one plant. That two other GMO's flanking it are doing awesome! Purple, sticky stinky. It's got the whole package. The one in the 50 has some huge flowers that won't require much longer. The one invthe 10 has some time left. This is clearly a sativa dominant hybrid. The buds are swelling like crazy. It went from NO buds to having little purple calyxes to flowers that look like cat-tails! I can't wait to see what rhis year brings. Once I get things dry and manicured I'll give you guys a look at how the first stage of the first harvest went. I'm super happy. Spent a large part of this morning shaking plants by handcand removing any dead leaves or anything that could cause rot then I went over them with a leaf blower. I'll need to water tonight I imagine. WATERED AROUND 3:00 PM. MY FAVORITE GMO STARTED DROPPING. WATERED EVERYTHING A GALLON EXCEPT I SPLIT ONE GALLON ON THE PLANTS THAT HAD BEEN CUT. IM EXTREMELY TIRED BUT I NEED TO GO OUT AT NIGHT AND SEE IF I CAN FIND EARWIGS CRAWLING UP THE STALKS. WEATHER STILL LOOKS GOOD. BUDS SWELLING PISTOLS RETRACTING AND MORE AND MORE LEAVES DYING. I CANT BELIEVE THE SIZE OF THAT SATIVA LEANING HYBRID IN THE TEN!

The nighttime VPD does not need to mirror the daytime VPD. Daytime VPD dictates the pull of water and nutrients, while nighttime VPD acts mostly as a prevention tool. A high nighttime VPD increases the risk of the leaf temperature dropping below the dew point, which can trigger bud rot and powdery mildew. Switched down to 12's hours of light mid-week, changed spectrum, increased light intensity from 840umol up to 1150umol at current height. Overnight from 800ppm to 1500ppm, morning compensation point (microorganisms) 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, once the apical dominance is broken. Measuring a plant's overnight CO2 emissions provides an accurate estimate of its dark respiration rate. Because photosynthesis stops in the dark, you are isolating the respiration process, which allows you to gauge how much stored energy (glucose) the plant has consumed and estimate the scale of oxidative phosphorylation. Oxidative phosphorylation is the final stage of respiration that generates the bulk of the plant's ATP (90%) and relies directly on the oxidation of these respiratory substrates NADH and FADH2 along with the consumption of oxygen. From a thermodynamic standpoint. Growth is an energy-capturing process, and the rate of that growth is bound by the available free energy (Gibbs free energy) and the First Law of Thermodynamics. While the ceiling or upper limit is dictated by free energy (such as photosynthetically active radiation), the actual amount of growth relies on how the plant balances that energy with other limiting factors. These are often described as the nine cardinal parameters of plant growth. 4 Above, 5 Below. If any one of the 9 becomes bottlenecked, the entire plant's cycle is restricted. Operating an 80F+ environment at night to force rapid carbon conversion comes with major drawbacks, as the biochemical processes work differently than the deductive logic suggests. While raising nighttime temperatures to 80F indeed accelerates respiration and speeds up the conversion of captured sugars (sink activity), doing so also radically increases the plant's overall metabolic baseline. If the plant's metabolic rate is artificially forced too high via heat, it can actually "burn" through more energy than it managed to assimilate during the day. This leads to carbohydrate starvation, stretching, and a net loss in final biomass yield. 400 ppm is near the standard ambient level; the plant's stomatal intake is the primary limiting factor, not the dark-reaction enzymes. To push 45 DLI without burning out the plant. Trying to force the conversion of a massive daylight DLI in a compressed time frame (12 hours) becomes highly inefficient because the Rubisco enzyme simply hits a saturation limit. To successfully convert a 45 DLI into dense, productive mass, the ambient CO2 generally needs to be elevated to the 1000 to 1200ppm range. This creates a steeper concentration gradient, driving the stomata to inhale CO2 fast enough to match the high photon energy. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light) so that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flowering, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework, it helps a lot nonetheless. Not saying anyone should not defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. One barely needs to defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localised growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, a lot harder to achieve metabolically at ambient 75F than at say 86F Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different from what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximise their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognised biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited, and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation from being signalled. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. PK BOOST with 50% ammoniacal N signals floral maturation. PK BOOST with N starvation signals nutrient recycling/sinking. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This can prevent triggering N starvation from having its normal impact. Manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option.

This girl grew for 72 days. She shared a bed with 2 other plants and only used one of the lights in the darkroom (180 watt electric sky). She produced beautiful dark buds that smell insanely sweet. I have only vaporized 1 decent sized bowl through my mighty vaporizer and I must say it tastes pretty good even without a cure. No green earth taste and it tastes just like it smells. Doesn't produce any dry mouth or eyes so that's nice. I Vaped it right before I left for work and I didn't even get chinky eyed when I walked outside into the light. So it's a great daytime smoke. I definitely feel high, I just don't feel like other people can tell :). She grew in living soil And I am convinced that it's the way to be 💪0

11March (VegDay24) Start of week 4 of Veg and with some minor defoliation on both girls, going to stabilize PH at 5.8/6.0 in the coming days. the girls are having 1lt each every 24h RR1 looks like she could do some more so I will start doing 1.2lt for her and keep RR2 at 1lt. 12March (vegDay25) Din some more LST on RR1 and took off 2 big fan leaves also RR2 have some more LST and small defoliation. 13March (vegDay26) increased watering for RR1 to1.5lt also increase nuts and stabilized PH at 6. 14March (vegday27) increased amount of water for both girls today and got a decent amount of runoff! slightly increased a bit more the nuts for one last time before the addition of bloom nuts end of this week. both girls continue to stretch and look healthy. RR1 50cm+3cm RR2 41cm+7cm 15March (Vegday28) as of today, bud candy of AN is part of the team as from now PH is steady and plats look amazing! 17March start of pre-flowering both girls have heavy signs of buds, will mix both grow and bloom nut as from this feed.

There is very little to do with the plants, they are getting fatter by the day and frostier by the day. I found out I was giving them way too much nutrient so I started giving them 0.4 EC less (its still a work in progress). The lights are still on 85%. It is starting to smell more and more sour and there is also a fresh lemon smell coming from it now.

Day 1..........

Greetings This week I switched to 12/12, switched to the base for flowering

All good topped pretty early,gonna top x 3 for this mother 🤞🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🍁 Discount code- TightNugs voost.com https://voost.com/

So where I live we had a really bad storm it had knocked out my power for a full 24 hrs so I had to give them some extra attention to insure there was no mold or any pest with no fan rotation. Then I also had to put them back on there proper timer to get things back on a roll so far so good they still look and smell amazing wish me luck

Week 7 means last feed for the girl, today week 8 starts and I’m going to start flushing her! She is starting to change color from light green to dark green/bluish tones. The smell is grapes, berries covered in glazed powder