Hello everyone, weed brothers.It is with great honor that I show you my growth in hydroponics My first hydroponics!😄🤗 I'm very curious to know how it will end.... Thanks for your support

I got Buds! Only a about a week old so the're tiny. Just watered with some Recharge and did some pruning, looking a tad droopy but should peak up in couple hours. Over all very health looking plants, So glad I switched to organic fertilizer, saw one gnat in the garden a few days ago, so as a precaution I put up a couple sticky traps, already got mosquito dunks mixed in the top soil from last time. Haven't see him since, might be stuck on one of the traps :).

Little bit of work this week but mostly an easy week watching the ladies grow and adjust to their new homes. On day 22 from Seed repotted the girls to their 2 gallon homes. I like to go from cups to 2 gal for veg then up to 5 gal for flower. Roots looked good and healthy already filling the cups well. Probably why they were needing water almost daily before transplant! Did the usual amendments (all purpose, basalt Rock, dia earth, and dynomyco) and living 50/50 new soil and reused soil from last grow. They all seemed to take it well, sad for a few days but I think I gave a bit too much water when transplanted. Now they're perking back up nicely. Late week did a Diatomaceous Earth treatment on top to keep bugs away. Will get the food out of tent this week and will be no more worries after that. Hope everyone has a happy 4/20 and a good grow week!

Harvest time didn’t get single photos but here’s the lot one plant on each line 5 plants in total Going from the back first: Somango Bubba cheese 1 Bubba cheese 2 Dos si dos Banana punch will upload dry weight of each plant once done don’t do wet weight don’t see the point all goes on the end weight for me thanks for viewing and happy growing and have a good day

Week 10 for Lemon Orange by Greenhouseseedco, Her colour is looking much much better 😍 1/3 of the phenos is getting barely any lateral branch growth so i think she will be the smallest yielder Keeping the canopies are flat as possible and i think its not going too badly 😇 Still wanting a little more growth before flipping to flower.

Everything is looking good. Continuing to water as usual. The Tropical Cooler had high PPM of nutrients so I flushed it. Other than that just checking the trichomes to see when I want to harvest. (4.2) Smell update Blueberry Swirl has a deep lemon smell, Fat Banana has a buttery lemon scent. Tropical Cooler still smells like a fruit salad that description is dead on! Lemon Haze x Gary Payton has a fruity smell with a lemony undertone. ( 4.4) Flushed all plants to about 250ppms (Parts Per Million) plan on harvesting soon. Have never flushed before bud smoke has been harsh previously so I’m giving it a try.

Se puso mala la punta de algun hongo o humedad se elimino esa parte y todas las posibles flores contagiadas , quizas de cortar tan tarde cogio frio de estos dias de septiembre

Potted up four gorilla girl xl in to 5 gal pots, using plagron light mix.🇬🇧 moistened the The soil gently in advance with 1l regular tap water and 4ml root juice. Using gloves pushed the seed just under the soil. dusted over With a bit more soil, added A tiny bit more water gently as possible and finally covered with humidity domes *Day 2, all four seeds germinated over night, chuffed! removed Humidity domes *Day 3, Two of the Four seeds are expressing yellowing, one just Having 1 yellow leaf. I’m guessing this was down to the seed case partially being stuck. and or bad ph. Ph up and down on route. *Day 4, mixed up a litre of cal-mag buffed Tap water, left out to dechlorinate/come to room temp and watered accordingly. Plant’s #1 and #2 progress. Plant 3# yellow leaf dropped. Plant 4# stunted but think she’ll be ok *Day 5, gave mini feed bio- grow and cal-mag then ph to 6.0. I changed the light cycle to 18hrs on, 6 off also *Day 6, possible nitrogen toxicity:/, just water from now

NOTE: Measuring light distance from top of net rather than top of plants for consistency. - Plant were developing nice broad leaves, but were refusing to grow any taller to push through the netting. So, I raised the light 3 inches and switched on both blue and red lights to allow them to stretch through, which did the trick! - Placed a lot of stress on the plants this week trimming and training them to grow throughout the ScrOG netting and removing lower branches that were not receiving as much light to allow the top leaves to get more nutrients. - NEGATIVE: switched off the grow lights to get natural color photos and forgot to turn them back on until several hours later! :-O My babies are too young to flower at this point. Hope they stay in vegetative state without any serious impact. Fingers crossed! - Been experimenting with clones from clippings. Last week didn't do to hot, but this time I got two nice long pieces and trimmed off the majority of leaves to give the roots a chance to develop without fighting over nutrients from the leaves. The trick this time was 1) sufficient size of clipping, 2) minimal leaves, 3) dipping the base in mycorrhizal fungi concentrate, and 3) placement near the humidifier to ensure leaves get sufficient moisture. So far so good. Check them out in the time lapse video.

Week 16 Flower: Embracing the Flush & Celebrating the Shine 🌟 It’s week 16 of flower, and a pivotal moment in the grow journey! This week, we’re diving deep into the flush phase, a critical step in achieving those clean, flavorful harvests. 🌿 Switching over to just water with 0.5 ml/L of System Clean marks the start of what I like to call the “So Cal Flush.” We’ll break down the whys behind this practice, the benefits of flushing, and how it sets the stage for smooth, aromatic results. Let’s demystify this important phase together and make sure everyone feels confident implementing it in their own grows. The Room is Glowing ✨ Every plant in the garden is unique, shining bright under the ThinkGrow LEDs! 🌈 Here’s the lineup of what’s happening: • Green Papaya: The frost queen herself, dripping with trichomes, setting the frostiest example. • Punch Pie: Claiming the crown for the fattest buds in the room—absolute monsters in size and density! • Gorilla Melon: A beauty with mesmerizing red reflections dancing across her leaves. • Papaya Zoap: Still stealing the show with snowy whites and pristine structure. This week was a photographer’s dream—I pulled out my Sony and Nikon cameras to capture some jaw-dropping close-ups and unique angles. I’m sharing these shots to highlight the sheer diversity and beauty of these genetics. Tech in Action: TM+ Pro App 📱 Let’s talk tech for a moment. The TrolMaster ecosystem paired with the TM+ Pro App has been an absolute game-changer. Capturing and sharing real-time data and alerts, it provides peace of mind and full control from anywhere. Whether you’re a seasoned grower or just starting out, this tool simplifies and elevates the entire experience. I’ll share some videos from the app this week to show exactly how it’s helping me stay on top of the grow like never before. P.S. — A Word on the Ecosystem 🌐 The TrolMaster system is proving to be a standout solution for growers of all levels. Its intuitive design and easy configuration make it perfect for beginners, while offering the advanced customization and precision that experienced growers crave. Whether it’s managing lights, fans, or sensors, this ecosystem has you covered with simplicity and reliability. A Big Thank You ❤️ None of this would be possible without the incredible support from this community, my sponsors, and Grow Diaries itself. Massive thanks to TrolMaster, ThinkGrow LED, Aptus Holland, ProMix Soil, Cannakan, and the incredible seed banks for making this journey so rewarding. And, of course, a heartfelt shoutout to YOU—the followers, lovers, and haters alike. Your energy keeps this mission alive. 🌟 Let’s keep growing, learning, and sharing the love. 💚 See you next week when we explore even more as we inch closer to harvest day! 🌱 #GrowWithMe #ControlledEnvironment #PositiveVibesOnly Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off Fast Buds - DOGDOCT 15% off As always thank you all for stopping by, for the love and for it all , this journey of mine wold just not be the same without you guys, the love and support is very much appreciated and i fell honored and so joyful with you all in my life 🙏
 With true love comes happiness 💚🙏 Always believe in your self and always do things expecting nothing and with an open heart , be a giver and the universe will give back to you in ways you could not even imagine so 💚 Friendly reminder all you see here is pure research and for educational purposes only Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚

I didn't have any problems at all with this strain. Really enjoyed growing and and will def do it again

Amnesia Zkittlez took a lil longer but i understand with amnesia lineage . She smelling Amazing one of the better ones of fast bud she was fairly easy to grow and got pretty big More info Tru the week

One week more. The two ladies have developed quite well in the last week and I have now defoliated them again. I think the yellow leaf tips are due to low humidity. The morello cherries auto in the soil also had a bit of bad news for me. There was a small bag of bananas, which I have removed for now and will continue to observe whether new ones appear. With a new cultivar, I can well imagine that it will be even more stable. Otherwise, the morello Cherrie flowers very fast and l'm a little surprised at the low stretch.

It was a week with a lot of activity. First of all, she had her first full week of flowering and did a bit of a stretch. Also I switched her to the left side of the tent, to space the plants more evenly. We are getting to a canopy, although one of her roommates probably is male and will be removed. More about this when I update my Xtrakushh Diary. Also had time to fit the scrognet. It fits way better than last grow, much tighter. We had some problems with the lighting. I probably hit my timer with one of my sausage fingers, making my lights turn on in the middle of the night, thank god I found it out in time. They maybe had an hour or two of light for one night. Still something she really doesn't need with this strains tendency to hermie under stress. She still looks happy. Did some gentle leaf tucking, some LST under the net, and a little defoliation. The branches might be short but they are very sturdy and should be able to carry large and heavy buds. And we had won the @Sweet_Seeds Halloween give-away and got to choose three of their legendary strains: Tropicanna Poison, Red Hot Cookies and Runtz XXL auto!! Thanks guys!!! We shall see where it leads... Thank you for checking in again and don't forget the Black Friday Superdeals on https://www.mars-hydro.com!! See you at other diaries or next week! Hug Bud and Sunshine

Heading into week 6 this will be the last week of veg, i will take some Clones and defoliate in the next 2 days give the ladies 4 more days of Regeneration And Send them into 12/12 cyclus They Look Amazing already the zake ist the Most bushy one and the pink Runtz already have a Crazy Sweet smell Breakpadbreath has most side branches and i like the structure the Most

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Anche lei è l'ultima settimana di lavaggio radici.......oggi 29/09/2024 taglio questa Ayahuasca purple...ha un profumo fortissimo.... Oggi probabilmente inizierò a pulire tt le cime e poi.via un taglio netto 😂🤣😜👍💪

------------------------------------------------- Day 43 Water: 0.75 Gallon TT Water w/ 0.75 TBSP Blkstrp Mlsses 6.5 pH Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.2° celsius @ 49% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.2° celsius @ 47% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 44 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (27.8° celsius @ 45% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.2° celsius @ 44% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 45 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.4° celsius @ 44% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.5° celsius @ 48% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 46 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.2° celsius @ 47% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (23.3° celsius @ 49% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 47 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.4° celsius @ 42% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.8° celsius @ 49% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 48 Water: N/A Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.4° celsius @ 42% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.8° celsius @ 49% RH) ------------------------------------------------- Day 49 Water: 1 Gallon TT Water w/ 1 TBSP Blkstrp Mlsses + 0.75ml/L Alaska Morbloom 5.7 pH Humidifier: 50% (LOW-MIST) Dehumidifier: On Fan Speed: High Light on @ 19:00 (28.6° celsius @ 49% RH) Light off @ 13:00 (22.7° celsius @ 49% RH) -------------------------------------------------