Had a MAJOR fungal gnat infestation. I was overwatering. Got doctor doom and blasted the soil with it twice. Then worked cinnamon into top layer and let pots dry out a lot more. Started watering in 2L rather than 3.

February 10 -Looking good so far and is already producing frost -she is moving fast but as expected as this strain goes for 45-52 days -Hopefully I can get an update on smells later this week

🤩🤩

Day 25 Did a single topping on one of the Pineapple Express Phenos. Just feed water ph to 6.00 area. Light is around 450-550 par

Finally back and healthy Another week or so the trellis

Starting to swell and smell🤤

End of this winter grow! Those ladies have been a pleasure to grow even if the very low temps may have had a negative impact. I also messed up by boosting them a bit too much before the flush but I think it helped densifing the buds in the end. Smell is awesome, trichs density is good as well as bud density, can't wait to vape test her!! My first attempt in lst was maybe more hst like, broke a few branches, stressed them too much... So I will be more gentle next time and I hope the hardware I'm working on will help me in that.

For now everything is going well .. the plant responds well to nourishment is vigorous and strong I think it will give a good harvest ... I added to the diet of the plants 3 new arrivals always Advanced sensysm tarantula and piranha we will see what improvements there will be

Hola amigos, volvemos en el último momento. Faltan dos semanas más. Reduciré la intensidad de la luz

Hey yall! Super stoked to show yall some beneficial nematodes in my soil. Lots of other beneficials in there, the nematodes are the most fun to me! Love to show yall what Korean Natural Farming and JADAM can do. This is all Natural, all organic, all homemade inputs. I just want to prove to you all, the entire community, and the entire cannabis industry that you don't need to drop money on your inputs. You can source everything yourself! Remember, Bottles are for Babies! 🍼 👶 You don't need to buy into anything, you don't need to invest in anything, but YOURSELF! You are the most valuable tool, you are the most dangerous thing on this Earth 🌎 I want to be a resource to everyone and anyone who is willing to be open minded and learn. It doesn't matter your background, where you live, what color you are, or what is in your past. Your future and the future of this Earth is in your (our) hands. Togetherness over oneness Anyways, weekly compost tea applications and quality compost gets you gold! Also hand crafted inputs with love makes a huge difference. Use what you have near you, if you are wildcrafting inputs, be sure to not take from nature without giving back. Recycle, use less chemicals, pour your extra compost tea in your community. We can stop this wild climate change, but we can seriously slow it down, almost completely if we all do our part. I hope these posts inspire you to go down that rabbit hole 🐇 🐰 and get your hands dirty. Use and reuse the same soil, use larger pots or go in a living bed if possible. Have fun and learn something each day, pass on love ❤️ 😍 learn from your mistakes, that is what makes us stronger. No matter the mistake in your garden, or in life, we can always learn something new about life and ourselves. You are not alone on this journey, I got your back, and I truly believe in you. Peace and blessings to all! ❤️ 💙 💜 💖 💗

GldaniGrowShop Thank you so much for bringing and giving me the strongest :)

Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme. Rabattcode für den BIOTABS-Webshop https://biotabs.nl/en/shop/ GDBT420, damit erhalten Sie 15 Prozent

These buds are absolutely awesome, very frosty solid dense nugs👍 have been flushing this week as there ready to harvest . Orange pistills cloudy trichomes with some amber's & the clusters have closed up . Will give them 48 hours of darkness before harvest.

15th.05.2025 Day 70. Left these girls for a couple of days, came back to see them explode. All milky trichomes. Still some white pistil hairs. Strong 💪 smell. Tropicana cookies 🍪 strong cirtus smell. Banana 🍌 purple punch has sweet and fruity smell, so lovely. Lemon 🍋 cherry🍒 has bubble gum smell with hint of citrus. They have definitely put on some weight in past week. We will see how far we can take them until we start seeing amber trichomes. 17th.05.2025 day 72 Today I harvested the tropicana cookies. I still could have waited a bit longer, however i am dying for a smoke. Hung whole plant in small grow tent, maybe 1ft x 1ft. I am trying to slow down drying as much as possible because on last run (wurlz f1) I dry too quickly without keeping an eye on temperature and humidity. Buds were crispy. In dry tent now the buds are touching the wall. I don't know if this will affect the dry. We will find out. Placed dehumidifier in tent as humidity keeps going up as plant drys. Set at 60%. I can't get temperature down to 60f or 15.5c as recommended. My temperature is around 20c or 68f. As for the others i will try to push them as much as possible. We'll see how things progress. 18th.05.2025 Day 73 Today was chop day for banana 🍌 purple punch 👊🏼. She is frosty as f**k. On this plant fimming was applied. She came out short as I wanted. It's difficult to see with jewelers loop but I see some amber. I need to get better scope. Also today I gave chemdawg a reservoir change out with final part solution. Also because there is more room in grow tent I spread some of the branches and trimmed off some of the lower popcorn buds. Topped up lemon cherry with nutrient solution. Soon lemon 🍋 cherry 🍒 will be chopped🔪 For the dry tent I removed dehumidifier as it was creating heat on the buds directly about. I am using an inline fan now . Once the humidity gets too high it comes on and sucks dry air in. This also removes stagnant or stale air, which is better for buds and will help prevent mold. 21th.05.2025 Day 76 Today lemon 🍋 cheery was harvested. Looking at trichomes they seem milky woth little amber, however the pistil hairs on her were all brown and she was starting to lose her bubble smell. I placed her in dry tent with tropicana cookies and banana purple punch. I had to install carbon filter because these girls were stanking up the house.

47th Parallel Crowly's Comet 🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹 GROW Started 03.10.24 INFORMATION 🔹╰⊰´🔹⊱╮🔹 🌞Environment - Maintaining 80F and 65%Humidity 🌾Training - Nothing this week, just letting the seedlings veg out. ⚱️3-Gallon 📊6.2 PH 💧 Feeding - Using Horti Grow 8-11-21, Bloom 5-15-26, Late Bloom 0-24-26, Cal 12-0-0 🌞Medic Grow Smart 8 760 Watts 🕷️ IPM - CannControl from Mammoth and Mosquito Bits as needed 🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹 PLANT UPDATES 🔹╰⊰´🔹⊱╮🔹 📝 Notes - These girls are killing it; they are ready to push into flower! 📝Fertigation injects fertilizers into an irrigation system to supply dissolved nutrients to crops. 🗓️04.13.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. 🗓️04.14.24 Started the Fertigation 2x daily this morning, feeding a little less at a time but making up for it with the additional feeding. 🗓️04.15.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. 🗓️04.16.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. 🗓️04.17.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. 🗓️04.18.24 Today fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal, and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. 🗓️04.19.24 Today, fed with Hort-Grow @ 3.3 GRMS Per Gal and Horti-Cal @ 2.5 GRMS Per Gal. I also did light defoliation because tomorrow, on 420, they are flipped into flower. ╰⊰🔹╰⊰´🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹╰⊰🔹STRAIN INFORMATION🔹⊱╮🔹╰⊰🔹╰⊰🔹╰⊰🔹⊱╮ Crowley's Comet / https://www.47thgenetics.com/product-page/crowley-s-comet-10-fem-birdseeds It's everyone's favorite piece of space rock, Crowley's Comet! The culmination of reversing our Matterhorn cut off Mr. Crowley to Intergalactic Runtz, and the results were out of this world (I had to do it). These ladies were slow to start, but once they hit their stride, they put any worries we had to rest. Compact, short-framed, and robust. They pack beautifully boulder-like flowers that reek of garlic and sickly sweet cotton candy. Dark green to a mosaic of purples, yellows, and silvers. Frost production is off the charts, the internode spacing is tight, and they certainly will impress in their last few weeks of flower. This is one of our favorite crosses in the new fem lineup. If you're looking for your hype fix, here you go. Yield: Heavy to XL Flower Time: 63 days Feeding Schedule: Heavy

Hello Diary. We have reached the 9th week, 6 weeks of flowering and are slowly coming to an end. My estimate is another week until harvest, although the flowers look different on Mimosa # 1 and Mimosa # 2, the appearance of the trichome tells me it will soon be time to harvest. Most trichomes are milky and now I am waiting for the brown ones to start appearing. It’s a sign to me that it’s harvest time. Along with Mimosa, there is also a Sherbet Queen on the "Farm", so it's quite crowded in the grow-box. That's why it became quite difficult for me to take them out of the grow box so as not to damage them. So this week I only photographed Mimosa # 2 on a black background while I take photo of Mimosa # 1 inside the grow box. The color of the leaves slightly takes on a lighter green color which slowly becomes yellowish, the flowers are nicely filled as far as Mimosa # 2 is concerned, although it grew almost 120 cm high and the lower branches were quite far from the light. Bending clips helped a lot by throwing the branches outwards and thus giving them more light. The branches are heavy under the weight of the flowers so I had to tie it a bit to a stick. As for Mimosa # 1, the flowers are full of trichomes, the smell is divine, much stronger than in Mimosa # 2, but the flowers remained small and airy, not filling and hardening. Probably most of the flowers will go into the trim. Due to the height of the plants that are inside my 180 cm tall grow-box, the lights are much closer to the top of the plant than recommended by Migro, but I didn’t notice that their light is too strong, so bravo Migro. The temperature was high this week, around 30 degrees, and this is caused by the great heat outside which was above average this week. Humidity is a little above 50%, which is more than would be ideal, the cause is also heat, so the soil evaporates more and releases moisture. I have two fans that blow for 24 hours and thus prevent the potential occurrence of mold or similar problems. Ventilation also works at maximum power. Watering is still every two days, and more or less that’s all that happened this week, I’m patiently waiting for the harvest. Here is a brief overview of the week. 11/07/2021 - Day 57. Watering. I always prepare about 8 liters of water, p.H I adjusted to 6.4 and watered all three plants evenly. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 30 degrees and 50% humidity. 13/07/2021 - Day 59. Watering. Same procedure as two days earlier. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 31 degrees and 55% humidity. 15/07/2021 - Day 61. Watering. p.H - 6.2 Temp / Humidity on the farm - 30 degrees and 53% humidity. 17/07/2021 - Day 63. Watering and photography. Temp / Humidity on the farm - 30 degrees and 60% humidity. That’s it for this week, we’ll see more of what it will look like next week but it will very likely be harvesting all three plants at the same time. Until then, enjoy.

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

Day 49 Flowering : Hi all. A good week for these sexy ladies with lots of colours starting to dominate the white pistils now. #1 is the smallest in height but is not being tight on her bud production and is showing that the small girls can deliver too. Her buds are very tight and solid to touch now. She smells amazing and still has two weeks to really throw out those swollen pistils and calyx. She is beginning to push the trichromes now and with the addition of the Dragon force , she should really get frosty for the finish. #2 is the biggest of the whole group and has a really nice footprint to her. Her main is a huge swelling tower surrounded by castle turrets putting weight on now too. An amazing example of this strain from Exotic Seeds. She alsonl smells so mangonsweet up close too. I cannot wait to hit this lady after harvest now... #3 Is dried and now in a jar curing up. she finished at a respectable weight for her 39 days flowering time . I got 2.1oz of really potent dark and dusty mangonyasting weed.The hit from such a young plant is shockingly good too. Her age did not seem to affect this at all. Wow what a plant. #4 is on her 42nd day flowering and looks very similar to how the #3 looked prior to harvesting. They have a wedding cake strain look to them and forna week behind , she looks very close to finishing besides her size. It will be an interesting week ahead with the shogun getting busy and the harvest so close too. Be safe