Bienvenidos de nuevo! Esta semana he seguido regando con agua hasta el corte, no he dejado que las hojas se pongan más amarillas porque los tricomas habían llegado al punto de madurez que más me gusta. Se nota que cyco tiene productos muy buenos por el simple echo de que después de dos semanas de agua siguen bastante verdes. Actualizo la semana como semana de floracion simplemente porque no tomo pesos en húmedo, después de un par de días colgadas pasaré a manicurarlas, y para cuando seque subiré pesos. Creía que sacaría flores extrañas por el calor, o que tendría algún problema más serio a la hora de cultivar en esta época,todavía falta secarla bien, pero a simple vista creo que me acerco al peso de la anterior cosecha, ojalá. Subiré más fotos en cuanto tenga la manicura echa, un saludo!

5 jours de canicule et 2 jours de tempête

Welcome to my Pablø Escøbar diary. In this diary: Seeds: sponsored by Ðivine Șeeds Media: Promix HP Nutrients: Advanced Nutrients, Diablo Nutrients. Light and Weather: Şun☀️and Mother Earth. ___________________________ Feeding: Wed 29May: 4L nutrients pH'd 6.5 Fri 31May: 2L water not pH'd in bottom saucer only. Sat 01Jun: 2L water not pH'd in bottom saucer only. Sun 02Jun: 4L nutrients pH'd 6.5 ___________________________ Pablo's shoots are beginning to come out away from the main Stalk... about time😂 ___________________________ Thanks for stopping by, likes and comments are appreciated!👊🏻😎 Keep on growin! Keep on tokin!!! 😙💨💨💨💨💨

Bottomed the plants on day 22 Over three weeks into flower and they’re still stretching but starting to slow down nice pistils forming I like the way she is stacking up

Things ok.......😳. Nah as soon as I think I gotta hold of something it plays around with me. The grow is going well and the plants are mostly showing a great fast rate of growth. Flower site formation is rapid and covers the whole canopy and below. But alas the temperature she rises😩😩. Last night caught the temp at 32 C. Gorilla growin ain’t always bananas😳 I can vent it quicker and keep the temp a little lower but the noise level is just too high. Here comes more expense😩😂. Update- last day week 2 of flower..... everything looking great one plant a little slow in developing but rest good. LED are still outstripping HPS in the race for mature buds. I can’t wait to try the herb that comes from the plants that have exposure to both kinds of light. I’ve added a pure CO2 spray dispenser in the tent also. It’s from Airbomz. Gives them a quick blast hourly to supplement the exhale bag. This is just a temporary fix for rise in temp I’m floating on and just above 30C during lights on, hopefully the CO2 level in the room should aliw the plants to carry on growing well in s slightly higher temperature.

💚💛❤️ Well, the blackout effects are showing now with some stunt grow! 😞 Small but bulky branches that are very hard to work/train with... defoliation before some bending clips and already snapped a few 😤 Already installed the net but I don´t think theres much to be done... guess I´m just let them go wild and do their thing. 😅 💚💛❤️

Tag 35 - Ende der 5. Woche. In dieser Woche an Tag 33 habe ich die Pflanze etwas entlaubt. Dabei habe ich die untersten Triebe entfernt und zusätzlich alle weiteren Blätter die im unteren Bereich nur im Schatten standen entfernt um die Luftzirkulation zu verbessern und die Belichtung zu erhöhen. Die Pflanze ist voll im Stretch und hat diese Woche nochmal ordentlich an Höhe dazu gewonnen. Die Blüten entwickelt sich gut und wachsen. An Tag 29 wurde die Pflanze gedüngt. Nährstofflösung: 2 ml/l - Voodoo Juice Advanced Nutrients. 4 ml/l - pH Perfect Sensi Bloom Part A 4 ml/l - pH Perfect Sensi Bloom Part B 2 ml/l - Bud Candy Advanced Nutrients. Davon hat die Pflanze 500ml an Tag 29 erhalten.

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Hey everyone 🤗. This week was harvested properly 😍. All of them are harvested, except for the two Tropicanna Banana (they will be on tomorrow). All finished crop images follow little by little as soon as they have dried enough and have got their actual bud structure 😃. I wish you much fun with the diary, stay healthy Ges and let it grow 🌱

What up family, weekly update on these girls. I raised the lights 6in this week to allow some stretch but still keeping 400-600ppfd at the canopy level. Over all they're progressing beautifully. I started adding 2.5ml/gal of Athenas Blended line Grow A & B. Haven't seen any burnt leaf tips so I think they'll be OK adding a little boost. All in all Happy Growing.

🌱🌿🌸SUMMARY🌸🌿🌱 I started this crop with 4 plants as you can see in the pics, 2 autoflowers by RQS and 2 photoperiodics. My plan was as follows: grow the two autoflowering plants until harvest and in the meantime do a long vegetative period for the two photoperiodic plants, and then proceed with the switch. One autoflowering plants, the Titan F1, did not respond well to the training and I preferred to remove it on week 5. Fortunately there were no problems with the other three plants (I made a different diary focused on the two photoperiodic). Milky Way F1 grew in a space dedicated to her of 90 cm x 40 cm (0.36 m2), under a 150 watt lamp which in the meantime also illuminated the other plants. 🌱 GERMINATION (2 days) Seed in a glass of EC 0.4 tap water for 10 hours, then in root riot and under the lamp. It sprouted after 48 hours from dry seed. 🌿 GROWING STAGE (3 weeks and half) During the 23 days after sprouting she had an impressive growth ratio. When she reached 25 cm in height I decided to bent the main stem to the side. On day 24 I opened the canopy with some tie, then I removed a good amount of leaves. The key with this kind of auto, the F1, is not stress them in the wrong moment but if you want to boost them yield you need to do some train, carefully! During the veg stage PH was always between 5.5 and 5.9, about EC I started with 0.6 and was 1 on the last veg week. 🌸 FLOWERING STAGE (7 weeks) She began the flowering stage on day 26 from dry seed (was 20 cm height after the bending) and by the end of the stretching she more than doubled the height, reaching 46 cm despite the LST on week 3 and 4. During the flowering I just removed some leaves on week 4 and 8. The light cycle I used is 18/6 and the last two weeks I lowered the light hours to 16/8 first and 14/10 then. I chopped her when trichomes were 95% milky and 5% amber. That gave me a very balanced high. During the flowering stage PH was always between 5.9 and 6.2, about EC I started with 1.6 and was 2 on the last week before flush. ✅ HARVEST - From dry seed to harvest: 74 days (2 days germination + 23 days veg + 49 days flo). - Chopped after 4 days flush, no dark time; - Wet trim, removed fan leaves. This plant had a ridiculous calyx-to-leaf ratio, it was just big buds! ✅ DRYING STAGE - Time: 15 days; - Average: 18° C - 60% RH. - After that I made a dry trim, removed branches and sugar leaves. ⚖️ DRY WEIGHT - 110 gr very frosty buds, no larf 😁 ✅ CURING STAGE - Curing is done after 45 days with Boveda 62%.

Seems like they are doing fine now they have some sun. I used cow shit in my grow medium for fertilizer. And I'll be dosing with bat guano next week.

Beautiful purple buds there are only 2 out of 5 phenos of bslck cherry punch 🍒 👊 that have purple flowers. The aroma just like her sisters is ver very sweet for real. Very nice fruity sroma, it gives you very good vibes man. I'm in love with this strain, basically because the 5 bslck cherry punch have the exact same aroma, and that's awesome because obviously these are not clones as you can see,all of them started from seed, and I think I've found a very good híbrid to my favorite list. She's been grown 100% organically without any sinthetic nutrients, no bottle nutrients. Just 100% organic living soil with very rich in beneficial bacteria and fungus thanks to the use of Florganics FLO, Silicium flash by biotabs that contains bug shit very rich in life. And also bat guano and seaweed powder by guanokalong. Peace everybody! 💚✌️❤️👨‍🌾

I hung all the branches upside down in the closet. Thanks to the help of an air conditioner I keep the temperature at 23C and the humidity at 50%. When after a bending the branches will break (prematurely bend) then the drying will be complete and the tanning phase will begin. Initially I had problems with Ca and Mg deficiency, in fact the plant has grown less than the other, but I am still satisfied with the result. I usually don't weight buds when they are wet because it's just a waste of time. When they are dry I will update the diary with the precise weight. PS the same day I harvested my country rejected the decriminalization of cultivation of weed (referendum of popular origin). I want to say to my politicians: You will never stop me from doing what I love most. that said, see you soon for the upcoming updates😈

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Week 14 – Getting Fatter Every Day 💛🌾 The fade is moving in stronger now, but the buds keep getting fatter and denser every single day. The smell is really good already — loud, sweet, spicy, and pushing more each week. 💧 Feeding (this week) Watered with: • 60 ml Bloom • 60 ml TopMax • 30 ml EM • 30 ml Bat Boost • 30 ml CalMag • 1.7 g Epsom salt They drank it well and are still building heavily. 🌱 Notes Even with the yellowing leaves, bud production is still rising. Trichomes are stacking nicely, and top colas are swelling fast. Everything looks on track for the final weeks. Stay tuned, muchachos — she’s not done yet. OnlyBuds 🌱✨

The plants are healthy. The Fastberry is getting a nice color. The Zkittlez has stayed smaller than the others, I was looking for a compact variety. The Rhyno Rider is very spread out, as are the Grapefruit and the G14s. The Stardawg is a little later than the others, I think.