This week was a good one . Stellar initial growth this round after upgrading lights & using homemade super soil. My 3 day old plants looked like 9 day old plants of my last run to give an idea . I watered for the first time since planting on 5/17 . I had to itch to test the runoff since it’d only take a sec right? All the ph’s came out almost 2 points lower than when they went in so I decided on a flush even though I’m using Dry amendments. Honestly I didn’t have the problem of fluctuating ph’s before I added that Peat Moss to my supersoil in hindsight I wish I would have just ordered 1 more 11lb brick of CoCo Coir . I had the idea that I may need to flush a day or two prior to watering when I noticed all my stems purple. I get it could be genetics but ALL of them where purple . Here today it is 1 full day since I flushed & all of the stems are now Green with the exception of my Runtz seedling. 3/17 will make day 7 for Runtz & #1 of the GDP 3/18 will make day 7 for Zkittlez & the 3 remaining GDP. I intended to transplant these ladies day 13 preferably into their forever homes of 3g fabric pots . Fingers crossed day 14 they’ll be ready to start some LST.

Big Bud Autoflower grew great till right at bulking in flowering. I misjudged the feed, and was light causing her ph to swing up and just happen to be right during bulking. So lost some bulk. I will revist her one day. She has a great smell, and layer of frost. Still gotva lot of bud that smells great and looks very potent. Will be back with results once she is dry, and processed. Thank you Viparspectra, and Amsterdam Marijuana Seeds. 🌱🤜🤛🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the likes, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel. There is a harvest video on my YouTube channel. It won't let me upload it here. Happy growing everyone 🌱 🌱🌱

Girls resting in their final home getting settled in before the decor

I Hope that it Will be a great Bloom. I didn't much place for my plants. On 80cm2 im try to do my best. 1month miss before the cut of my OG kuh. Love this seed. What are they thinking about it?

✋Wk 8: Time slows down, as buds build and plants are thirsty. 👉One of the best part about growing cannabis, and actually fun plants of any variety, is that the anticipation of the final results seemingly makes time slow down. When I hit 40 it was like I had hit the top of the hill and everyday since then has seemed like it was getting shorter and time was going by much more quickly. I started growing herbs and peppers on the patio a few years ago the race towards the inevitable has seemed to mellow out. A year ago I started growing LEGAL cannabis! I had dreamed of this since I was in college. The risk was too great to get busted for growing even a small plant. Seeing the plants grow a little each day is amazing. Seeing the progress of just one month is amazing. The days seem to take longer as a pleasant side effect of my impatience for the finished product. I have grown lots of different plants, and cannabis is definitely the most magical to watch grow. 👉The 1 gallon is starting to build out its buds. The shape of the plant is amazing, all the secondary branches are almost the same height! The branches are very stout and have grown straight up. I have supports installed and may start by just making a simple hoop around the plant with some soft garden wire to keep them from spreading out. The frost is starting to form on the one gallon buds as well. The frost is extending out onto the leaves. I haven't removed any leaves or larf sites in a couple weeks. The leaves went from big and fat fans to smaller skinny fingers much like you'd expect from a Sativa dominant strain, yet this is an Indica dominant strain. Its making for much better light penetration so minimal larf and fatter colas perhaps. When fertigating it takes a few minutes to be able to get all the sulution to the plant. This is from the density of the roots. Its been soaking up the water and nutrients very well. Towards the end of the week I was getting less run-off and the run-off EC was climbing. I will probably do a good low EC fertigation next week. 👉The 3 gallon is a dense bush. I haven't taken any of the secondary branches. I have taken some interior shaded small branches from the big branches. I have also taken some of the interior leaves that were totally shaded. Ive have also removed almost all the large early growth leaves as they got more in the way of air circulation and access to the media for watering and observation. The main cola is barely indetifiable as the main cola so far. The symetry of the plant is very nice and I hope it stays this way. Its also behind the 1 gallon plant and will finish 2-3 weeks after it. I am guessing 6 more weeks max. Even if its not ready I will have to harvest it 6 weeks form now because I have to go out of town for business for a week. I will take it as far as it can go. The plant is drinking alot and I am giving it as much as 5 liters a day. The run-off has also gone down and as a result the run-off EC has been creeping upwards as well. The coming week I will be giving it a goof low EC fertigation and increase the volume of inflow. My target for inflow EC is mid range on the General Hydroponics Flora Series Drain to waste nutrient schedule. 👉 I have included pix of my fertigation log. The log show tents conditions, inflow stats and run-off stats. Both plants are soaking up the fluids. Both plants are getting the full line of the General Hydroponics Flora series nutrients/supplements and mixed full strength in RO water from an industrial RO water machine. This week I increased the amount of Cali-magic about 25%. There are some purple stems around and want to keep it from becoming a leaf issue if its form a slight lack of Ca/Mg. Next week I will continue the higher level of Calmag and also will do at least one low EC fertigation. When I do a low EC fertigation I only have Armor Si and Calimagic in the solution. I will follow the low EC event with a small dose of regular nutrient solution. 👉I am sure that the way I am doing this diary is probably pointless in terms of interest to others. I am doing it in the spirit of a true diary and for my own personal use as a record. I am trying to make it understandable and comprehensive for others. I'm sure that is folly in the long run but I do enjoy being able to review my work in a comprehensive way.

Fue una cepa muy linda de cultivar, con un buen resutlado final, cogollos equilibrados, al haber 4 plantas se presentaron distintos fenetipos en cuanto a colores, una con aroma mas dulce que otra pero ambas bien logradas, estoy conforme con el tamaño, quizas en una carpa de 1c1 se hubiese trabajado mas comodo pero al haberlo hecho en un 80x80 logre coparla al 100%.

Welcome to the Jungle 😁😎 Girls are enormous , i literally lollipopped them 😅 , later in the flowering i will also make a great defoil of the tops to prevent very serious mold that already attacked my autos ,

Week 12 Day 78 (10/2) I'm really hoping that I will start to see some amber trichomes soon. Most diaries I have seen harvest after week 12, but some have gone even longer. I mean, I'm not in a rush but damn, I would love to get her finished and chopped soon. She'll probably need watered tonight, so I'll check trichomes again while I'm at it. Day 79 (10/3) I get the feeling that we are in the home stretch. I scoped the trichomes last night and I'm starting to see some sporadic amber. I watered her last night with some Mammoth P, but depending on how the ambers progress, she may not get fed again. Idk, we'll see. I'm really tempted to do some defoliating as there are MANY lower buds that are still sporting white pistils. I'm thinking that maybe they just aren't getting the light they need and are trailing behind in maturing? I've been moving branches around and tucking leaves like crazy, but I feel like I'm just going in circles with it because she is so bushy. A few days ago I moved the light down quite a bit, and when I got home last night a lot of the upper leaves had gotten pretty yellow. I figured it was light bleaching so I moved the light up some to about 13" above the tallest cola point. Day 80 (10/4) I finally bit the bullet and defoliated a little bit last night. I focused on just what was blocking the lower buds, especially deep in the middle. I was able to pull some of the outer branches out and maneuver some of the smaller ones that were buried out as well. There is a shocking amount of bud sites hidden all over. I have some trimmers, mini hygrometers, and Boveda packs on the way! Day 81 (10/5) Ugh, I'm really on the fence about how to continue, whether or not to give another feeding or stick with just water. I'm seeing very few amber trichomes, but her leaves are fading fast. She'll be needing water in the next day or two, and would be getting fed. Idk.... Day 82 (10/6) Just waiting.... Day 83 (10/7) Watered her last night. I put 2 Tablespoons of molasses in, some Mammoth P, and some Drip Clean to help get any residual salt out. She is quickly fading and her leaves are yellowing/browning. I scoped her trichomes last night and I think she'll be ready to partially harvest by this weekend! Day 84 (10/8) I'm thinking tomorrow....maybe

3 different phenotypes with the GSC totally different flower formations! Pretty interesting to see but a bit annoying as #1 looks and smells fantastic and the other two #2 and #3 GSC are less dense with a lot less trichomes visible. #3 has a lot of pistils, I’m hoping they will start to bulk up as it’s getting late.

🌱: topdressed her with Dolmite Lime on day 16 💧 : 4l 💡 : Dli: 35 mol/m²/d 🤔: Back from mountain biking on day 16, she survived my absence well, but looks a bit yellowish. After my experience with the Amnesia Haze https://growdiaries.com/diaries/256489-fast-buds-amnesia-haze-auto-grow-journal-by-hinterhofgrower#weeks/1485085, I'm adding some Dolomite Lime to the soil as a preventative measure to avoid the CalMag problem. I watered the dolomite lime into the soil with 2 liters of 2ml/liter Supermix, also to give the upper roots more NPK. What she can draw from the reservoir through capillary action doesn't seem to be enough yet. As an Indica dominant, I didn't top her but removed the bottom two branches and try to keep the central branch under control by removing leaves. In total, I now have 5 main branches.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Flowering day 28 since time change to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) The lady is growing very nicely. The buds start to swell and they start to smell delicious :-) . I look forward to seeing her every day 💚. Watering was done twice this week with 1.2 l each. Have fun and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 https://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/affiliate/MadeInGermany_PassionGrower 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 You can buy this strain at : https://www.amsterdamgenetics.com/product/choco-cheesecake/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Use the coupon code: madeingermany for 10% on all Amsterdam Genetics seeds Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

I don't know what else to say. It was fun and hopefully the cheese was my fault and not the genetics of ilgm. But hell we will see. This my be my first journal but definitely not my last. Peace

08/25/2019 And flowering begins! May have to finish inside.

Es ist wieder eine Woche vergangen und alle Pflanzen funktionieren sehr gut mit dem Dope Soil in Kombination mit Autopot. Einzig die Papayana will sich noch nicht so richtig strecken, kommt hoffentlich noch. Entspannter könnte es nicht gehen, Osmosewasser mit Calmag in den Behälter, fertig. In den nächsten Tagen werde ich entlauben und anschließend prophylaktisch Raubmilben und Nematoden rein. Edit: Entlauben erledigt, Raubmilben prophylaktisch auch drin. Bilder zeigen vorher und nachher.

All is developing nicely, introduced cannazym and boost to the mix. Finally I have access to a better camera which you will see on the later pics. The cuttings I took seem to survive for now, with some outrooting their cubes already.