Another good week!! I need to LST and defoliate... probably going to do that tomorrow. I fed them this week as well as watered. I will add the flowering nutrients going forward!! Otherwise, I hope this grow continues to go well!! Cheers!!

the left "nemo" is much further along than "v" on the right. began tapering back on both nutrients, after this last compost tea feed nemo is getting flushed, just RO water and finish by heavy 16. V needs another week to develop then 2 weeks to flush and finish. will probably chop nemp im 2 weeks between day 67-70 of flower, based on trichome color. after initial harvest on nemos tops im going to re-weave "v" tops thru scrog fpr better airflow, light use and allow them to fill and finish with the lower buds of nemo at probably day 77 or so, its slower rolling, much more haze pheno, both leaf shape, bud structure and smell. Nemo is much more blueberry, finishing sooner, smells like blueberry candy and has wider fan leafs.

This week I tried some gentle LST by just bending the main branch over every day once or twice a day I didn’t use tie downs, I figured for my first grow I’ll keep it as simple as possible and see if I can even get it to harvest. It has definitely grown this week from last, and seems to be liking the 50-50 mix of FFOF and FFHF. I have noticed some yellow on the tips of a few leaves I’m assuming it’s cal mad deficiency comparing with others pictures but it’s minor. I have to say fast buds has a very hearty strain here it withstands well despite not having quite enough light, but I hope that’s something I can change in the future grows. I just worry that when she flips to flower she will struggle more under my lighting configuration and fox tail or larf out. That being said I’m intrigued to see what happens and see what she produces. I see her getting into a stretch getting taller daily and wanting more frequent watering I’m assuming I’ll start to see flower in week 5 or maybe 6. All in all I’m very happy for my first grow and the fast buds northern lights, I agree with others that say this strain is resilient. Happy growing!

Die kleine wächst schön flott und macht nach meinem derzeitigen Kenntnisstand einen sehr gesunden Eindruck. Mal sehen wie die Grüntöne aussehen, sobald Sie das nächste Blätterpaar entwickelt. Geplant ist später, ca. ab der 3 Blütewoche, eine Zugabe von UVB Strahlen. Bei der Hulk Berry habe ich damit ein unglaubliches Aroma erzielt. Zudem bin ich der Überzeugung, dass der "hohe" THC Gehalt im Allgemeinen, nicht zwangsläufig eine Gute Wirkung bedeutet. Viel wichtiger ist, wie die Trichome aufgeteilt sind. Eine Verfärbung ist meines Erachtens nach immer ein recht sicheres Anzeichen dafür, dass es sich um eine schöne Wirkung handeln wird. Hulk Berry, THC Bomb, sind beide starke Sorten. Jedoch fand ich AK 47 bis jetzt am aller besten. Direkt danach kam die Blueberry mit "nur" 16%. Aber die Wirkung war Rund und wunderbar. Eventuell teste ich im nächste Grow mal Califorina Orange, mal sehen. 16.11.2020 Tag 9 Ich kann nicht klagen, wie schon bei der Begutachtung der keimenden Wurzel vermutet, handelt es sich bei dem erwischen Samen um einen sehr starken. Die kleine Banane wächst sehr Gut, macht einen sehr gesunden Eindruck und hat ein passendes Farbbild. 16.11.2020 Tag 9 16:16 Uhr Aller Erstes LST erledigt. Der Stamm sollte Morgen früh schon merklich kräftiger und vor allem Widerstandsfähiger sein.

Crazy week. Weather has changed went to be more rainy and colder. Some days were even close to 6 celsius degrees in the night. We have got more like cloudy some days with some hours of sun but nothing significantly strong light. She does well, getting dense and the smell is very strong!!!!!! Like sweet and citrus and like absolutely I feel in my mouth tho....very very very nice!!!!!! Looking also good maturing she is quite big so i surrounded her from one side with rubbis bag to not be be able to see by my neighbours... obviously not a tomato plant even if she is placed between.... 🤪 She will make it more rain less sun but she is okay. I also checked the trichomes nice maturing they look milky but apparently they need to mature and the pistils are white anyways I go after the trichomes I think she grew more a bit as well. I am happy ;)

Fast Buds CC still has more yellowing in the leaves than I like. I've been ph'ing my water down to 6.0 and giving her extra Recharge (1 tbs/gallon). The bud sites are looking good. I think I'm 2-3 weeks from harvest here. Looking forward to having a taste of Cream Cookies. If she's anything like Girl Scout Cookies, its going to be a hit! 👍

Ich habe 11-Liter-Töpfe vorbereitet und 25 g Root Max in jede Topf mit All Mix Erde gemischt. Für die Keimung habe ich einfach mit dem Finger ein Loch in die Erde gemacht und die Samen hineingedrückt. Dabei habe ich keinen Dünger verwendet, sondern nur Wasser gegeben. 11リットルの鉢を用意して、各鉢にAll Mix土にRoot Max 25gを混ぜました。発芽には、ただ指で土を押し込んで種を押し込む方法を使いました。この時は肥料を使わずに水だけを与えました。

Ladies and Gentlemen — we’re closing in on the harvest window! 🌿✨ This run has been particularly fast, as we’re only at day 70. The plants are nicely stacked, and I’ll let them ripen right up to the last minute to hit around 20% amber trichomes — aiming for those dense, sticky nugs. 💪 By the way, the smell is amazing. It’s only pH’d water from here on out! 😎 Stats so far: 💧 Watering: 1.5L every other day 💦 Humidity: ~55% RH 🌡️ Temp (lights on): 22–26°C 🌡️ Temp (lights off): 20–22°C 📈 Avg. VPD (lights on): ~1.45 kPa

green wild shark #2 has been such a great accident this week i am going to put her on a stool to get her closer to the light was letting it stay low hoping to get some stretch i think she is as tall as she is going to be put a nice video up of her #1 has been easy and not needed much from me except nutes and water

A good week for ICC photo. I topped her and started bending branches for some horizontal development. Once she’s covering the entire pot with some budsites and tops I will let her start stacking nodes vertically. I am using “garden hooks” I’ve made with metal food skewers and will use those to bend and guide branches outwards. Feed is the same really and I am really digging it so far, Gaia green and coco loco for a supersoil type grow in regards to waterings and feeds. No ph checking, no dechlorinating water, just tapwater and a few add ins like fishshit and recharge, a seaweed/kelp foliar, and worm castings/topdresses. Trying this routine out and hope to be able to reamend the pot and drop again. This plant is in midweek5 of veg and has about 6-8 weeks to go before I can flip her to flower.

Temperatures this whole week: MAX - 25.8ºC MIN - 18.5º C MAX HUMIDITY - 90% MIN HUMIDITY: 44% Aprox Plants Height Sunday 26: Persian Pie 1 - 23cm Persian Pie 2 - 18cm Persian Pie 3 - 21,5cm Persian Pie 4 - 20,5cm All Gas OG - 14cm Irrigation: 21/3 - 2L (400ml each) of alkaline tap water (6.9 Ph, 127ppm) with 0.1 ml/L of silic boost, 1ml/L of Terra Leaves and 1ml/L of Atazyme. 24/3 - 2L (400ml each) of alkaline tap water (6.72Ph, 117ppm) with 0.1ml/L of silic boost and 0.2ml/L of Rootbastic. (last alkaline irrigation, last dose of rootbastic) -The stains seems to be drops of water from the humidificator, probably they're falling there when i move the deposit to refill it. Next week i should put the light closer, make apical pruning and pull in the tent a scrog web to put a limit to the plants height because they're starting to grow willowy and the tent is only 1.80m tall. I should also make an abundant irrigation to check earth's Ph and PPM again and get the A/C ready to be plugged to the tent because temperatures are rising up exponentially outside and some local growers are starting to have issueswith that. Cheers guys, have a great week and good luck with the outdoor season. Good luck with the harvest to those on the other side of the equator 🙌🙌

🏿‍♂️🔇

Day 15 update; Morning; Was definitely a mistake to cut the leaves already.. I let the leaves stay on one of the 3 plants I have, and after it got repotted yesterday, growth have taken off completely.. It's 3 days younger than this one, and almost twice the size, having set the second set of leaves on the sidestems already. I'll add some fertilizer today, to the 2nd one I cut leaves on, and see how it goes, and then decide tomorrow if the other two will get some then or if waiting a few extra days is best. - It's looking incredibly healthy tho, for a plant that lost a bunch of it's roots yesterday.. It's hugging the light from the lamp with the rest of its leaves, even more than before. So hoping I didn't set growth back too much. - Added a video of the setup. It's nothing fancy, but should work nicely. Night; Still really healthy looking, and still hugging the light with pretty much every leaf, even the ones sprouting on the side have begun to do so.. Seems like it's starting to grow a little again as well, not much, but definitely a start to getting back on track. Day 16 update; She's definitely begun to grow again. Hopefully she'll catch up to the other two pretty fast. Day 17 update; There reqlly ian't much to say today. I think she's picking up the pace for growth, bit can't be too sure.. Day 18 update; There's no doubt that she's back to growing nicely again. She might even have a healthier green colour than before. Day 19 update; Morning; Pretty sure she's showing signs of the beginning of sexing this morning. A little earlier than I'd hoped, especially with the setbacks she's had. But she still got time to grow before flowering, so hopefully not a problem now that she's back on track. Evening; She popped a few hairs during the day.. I tried taking some better pictures, but damn phone camera just won't focus when getting closer than what I've uploaded, so I underlined the hairs slightly.. They hard to aee in the pic tho, but they're there. Night; She's set another couple of hairs at the top, they're very tiny tho and I still can't get a good picture. Growth is definitely progressing faster. Day 20 update; She's had a productive day. Definitely preparing to flower within the next week or so. Hairs should be pretty noticable on the top-down pic this time around, the way it looks close up, it could be suspected that she was already flowering. Day 21 update; Not quite flowering yet, but definitely very close from the looks of her top.. another couple of days, and she'll be there.

Week 9 (3/14/22 - 3/20/22)

👉Alrighty Then👈 👉Purple Punch F1👈 So we are now moving into week 7 of flower and everything is looking good 👍 Everything is looking good 👍sidenote , I am using my well water which is hard so I am having slight issues 😅 So i continue to modify the nutrients to accommodate Flower ..... Soil by Promix Nutrients by Cronks Lights by MarsHydro.ca FC4800 X UR45 X Adlite Deep Red And Blue Tent 4x4x6.5 & Equipment by MarsHydro.ca High reflectivity inner mylar Thick Oxford fabric Smooth heavy duty zipper Sturdy metal frame Zipper blackout cloth Good anti light leakage performance The 6in Inline kicks ass moves alot of air ●Blue Light Effect: Blue light shortens internodes, resulting in shorter, stronger plants, ideal for supporting fruit development later. During vegetative growth, blue light promotes lateral branch development effectively. Well this should be fun 🙃 Thanks to all my growmies out there for stopping by its much appreciated 👈 👉Happy Growing👈

Start in Woche 4. Hat sich einiges an Wuchs getan. Machen langsam den Eindruck wie richtige Pflanzen. Und die Solar Fang hat ein mega symmetrisches Erscheinungsbild. Absolut senkrecht. Love it 😍 Bisher scheint alles ok zu sein. Muss sich auch nicht ändern. Beleuchtung auf 30 DLI bei max 700 PPFD geändert. Schaunmermal, ob sie das aushalten, begrüßen oder neg. reagieren. Update 1: Solar Fang hat zu kurze Internodienlänge, aber Sherbet und LW haben eine LST Spange bekommen. Mal schauen. Zeitraffer der vorhergehenden Woche am. Ende der Bilderreihe.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Week 5 (28/06 - 04/07) 28/06 Have topped them last week They have recovered well from topping Will let her grow a bit more before flipping the tent to 12/12

Poslední týden před přepnutím světel na 12/12. Světlo běží na 75% a 50cm od rostlin. Všechny rostliny vypadají naprosto spokojeně bez známek přehnojení nebo nedostatku živin. Sweet Orange 1 jsem přesadil do skutečného 1L květináče jako její sestry a krávu jsem zlikvidoval. D59 Úterý: Holky zality 1,5L vody s 0,5ml/l RQS Flowering Booster : Bigger Flowers D61 Čtvrtek: Defoliace před kvetením . Odstranil jsem jen ty listy, které branily pronikání světla a vzduchu (asi 5-7 listů z každé rostliny). Většinu vějířovitých listů jsem pouze zastrčil aby nepřekážely. Počkám ještě 2 dny, potom přepnu světla na 12/12. D63 Sobota: Holky dostaly 2L vody s živinami. Přepnuto na 12/12