Week 15 Harvest 21-2 Temperature: 29.7 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 67% (highest) 44% (lowest) Watering: None. 22-2 Temperature: 29.9 degrees (lights on) 19.9 degrees (lights off) Humidity: 65% (highest) 41% (lowest) Watering: None. Today is the last day, tomorrow i will harvest her. I removed all large fanleaves and took some pre-harvest pictures. 23-2 Today is harvest day! I left the buds on the branches and hang them to dry. Temperature: 18.1°c to 19.9°c Humidity: 57% to 72% 24-2 Temperature: 17°c to 18.8°c Humidity: 56% to 64% 25-2 Temperature: 16.8°c to 17.9°c Humidity: 57% to 69% 26-2 Temperature: 16.2°c to 18.1°c Humidity: 56% to 61% 27-2 Temperature: 16.2°c to 17.5°c Humidity: 55% to 61% 28-2 Temperature: 16.3°c to 17.6°c Humidity: 57% to 64% 29-2 No info. 1-3 Temperature: 17.8°c to 18.7°c Humidity: 56% to 61% 2-3 No info. 3-3 Temperature: 16.5°c to 20.3°c Humidity: 46% to 62% After 8/9 days of drying the buds are dry enough, so lets start trimming! The buds are pretty airy and foxtaily, but very resinous, she smells good, but i think the buds are a bit overdried. End results: Trim: 18.12 Gram. Popcorn buds: 37,11 Gram. Normal Buds: 70,98 Gram. Total buds: 108,09 Grams. I will post the progress of me making bubble hash in this diary very soon, so if you are interested make sure to keep an eye out!

Heerlijke harde volle toppen en voor het eerst dat ik harsdruppels zie. Een heerlijke strain om te growen. De plant wordt in zijn geheel opgehangen en ik zal het droge gewicht wegen.

1.80 ..........

Another slow start to the week after transplanting from coco to DWC. The plant showed little signs of growth and just seemed to be in 'limbo' for afew days. She then picked up the pace and has been sprouting new hairy roots and new foliage up top each day! LST continues to keep her low and wide with alot of new growth now accumulating from the main stem that is exposed. Will be looking to up the nutes over the following week to encourage her back to regular feeding dosages.

Day 79, 28th of November 2020: Hi there! Here we go let's say half way. Plants are pretty these Original Sensible Seeds genetics are fantastic! The 2 OG and the Runtz Gum is very strechy. Black Ghost is pretty shorter bushier plant. Runtz Gum and Do-Si-Dos OG approx the same height Do-Si-Dos OG is taller a bit. Wedding Gelato is really cool little, bushy anf nice buds forming not problem with her all she is quiet. Do-Si-Dos OG has some deficiency and leaf gets dry but nothing very serious..... Fertilization is still the same every second day with the rationand mixture above stated. The lamp is on 11.15 min and off 12.45 min. Last week was 15 min longer light cycle.... So every week 15 min shorter light cycle until the 5th week. So far -45 min. It switches on at 6 am and off at 17.15 pm.

Took 2 clones from my sunset sherbet this week towards the end of the week. There continues to be explosive growth with this plant. I plan on switching to flower in a month or so and we will find out how she really performs.

week 9 of flower for these girls The smell off them is pretty extraordinary now, I really cannot wait to taste them, Thinking of cutting down next week, awkward place to try and check the trichomes on them atm, but since there are 2 I'll definitely cut one next week and maybe let the other finish week 10, will see Thanks for swinging by

29 macetas de 20-18 litros aproximadamente Dia 32 de Floracion Super Suelo Sin fertilizantes Apoyado con biortilizantes @bioinsumoschakrana Melaza Te de Bokashi Humato Postasico Potenciado @Knactive Knactive el mejor bioestimulante 100% orgánico para todo tipo de plantas , el cual activa la autodefensa contra el estrés oxidativo y potencia la síntesis interna de todas las fitohormonas. https://instagram.com/knactive_?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== Vital Juice Es un producto Chileno hecho en base a algas: durvillaea antarctica y ascophyllum nodosum.

Week 10 and the plant is growing nice buds. The smell is still pretty weak. Tons of white hairs and looks like the buds still need to bulk up a bit. The lower fan leafs are turning yellow. Since I had to flush the plant I kinda hit it hard with nuts feeding it on a straight water day which I usually wouldn’t do. That may have caused some nutrient burn since I see some burnt tips but over all the plant is looking great.

Hi buddz and buddettez how is it growing?😁👍 So another week ended into the greenhouse, fall is kicking in hard and temps dropped to 17 celsius daytime. The tomatoes are almost done, did it extremly well and what a taste and colours this year it was amazing. The Runtz is full into flowering, producing some very decent buds. I am very impressed by her, the canopy is looking great, nice evenly spread, and hopefully by having her lollipopped al the way up to 1 meter, the mold will back off this time🤙 To really go in war with this bud eating sucker, i added a fan to keep the air flow maximized. Lets hope for the best, the days are getting colder and wetter and so is the inside of the greenhouse😁🙌 The Santa Maria Auto doesnt want to grow up, stuck in her dwarfish bubble, i planted her to late into the season, better of next year. She will be one of the first to pop cause she needs to be finished mid summer were the climate is the most dry. The Blue Gelato 41 Clone is doing fine, after she rooted she could only grow/acclimate 2 weeks befor going into flower, top bud seems to be a fatty little one😋 Last water feeding was about 5 weeks ago, they never complained, the tomatoes burst when you water to much, beside that the ground is kinda slope towards my greenhouse, so they pick up alot of water from underneath😁🤙 Have a great week all, enjoy life to the fullest and happy growing

Just obsessed with this plant. The bulk is real; she is getting heavy. Looks amazing, smells amazing, what else can I ask for? Two more weeks! Video/photos taken 105 days after breaking soil, day 56 of flower.

Primeiro mês de floração, ótimas plantas, super saudável, fertilização ok, folhas com. Um verde bonito, rega e alimentação todos os dias. Plantas satisfeitas.

Hello guys, Here I am again to present you a new run, still with the best leds of the market nevertheless as I changed my growing space from 120x120 to 150x150. So I had to update the material inside... I will run with 3 EVO 5-150 lamps of 320W or 960W with Bluetooth dimmers. For the Hydro system, it will be the V-SYSTEM from Alienhydroponics. In fertilizers I am always with Advanced Nutrients. I work with osmosis water. Currently, 4 clones took on 4. Once the roots are ready, I will transfer the cuttings from the propagator to the V-SYSTEM. ------------------------ since the 16/08, when I transplanted the plants in the RDWC system, I noticed some points that I will mention below and correct next time. 1. The cuttings are too small, allow enough time so that I can completely fill my pots with clay balls. 2. Cut out the bottom of the pots from the cuttings. 3. 3/4 of the cuttings are touching the water, so one is late. Next time when transplanting, add more water, up to the basket in order to immerse all the plants and not to create a difference between each one, consequence now I have 3 that are ready to explode and one that will struggle behind, problem corrected today by increasing the volume of water. 4. The b-52 is a real pain in the ass in RDWC, you have to clean the 2 filters almost every day, with this new soup I'm testing without and I think I'll continue like this just with the base sensi grow A and B, as I use Root rot X, I won't use voodoo juice since all the bacteria would be killed. 5. Use of Voodoo Juice is useless if using Root Rot X which will kill the bacteria. I don't know why but when I transplanted in the RDWC, I put my set up in growth mode, except that the plants were not ready for it, moreover, I made a FIM on each. So I lost some days, these last days I went back to a ppdf of 150, now that my roots touch the water, I declare growth 0 on 22/08, I will do between 21 and 28 days of growth. And as my roots are doing well and touching the water I'll go to a PPFD of 300 ++

Topped x4, already taken 4 clones currently in the cloner, minor defoilation 🤞🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🍁 🍁🍁🍁 Breeder-custom mystery seed fem 🍁🍁🍁 Light-Voost VST 120 https://voost.com/

Day 44. Some girls have a bit too much N, leaves show very light curl and some girls are still in veg/preflower mode, so for two waterings it will be phed water with light CalMag added. But anyway, all took that heavy training easy and are blooming. Now i understand in what an absurd grow i created myself, but ... a journey is a journey and i like it ! ;))) Day 45. All good in the Neibourhood ;))) Day 47. Girls got a winner pedestal ;))) had to lift some, had to leave some on the ground, had to supercrop one skyscraper , she was going to the sealings ;)) Still light N overdose curl, but only on one most running to sun strain, so it will be a challenge to feed those 5 pots with other 10 girls in them ... Oh well, hope SOMEBODY will learn ;))

The Breakup Cake is nearing ready. 1 more week ipas long as no rot is seen. Thanks Kannabia. Already had a taste of lower button buds. Very tasty and gives you a nice lift. Thanks to the community for all the looks, likes, and nice comments. Appreciate all of you growfriends.🙏

I just moved this wonderful lady on her 4th week of life, I moved her into a 25l pot, and I'm starting to lst her. Let's see how she performs. Hope to be able to make a big nice bush

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

This week was absolutely torturous had an accident in which one of my plants was damaged fortunately I do not believe that all is lost I will just have to hold her back on sending her into flour with the rest until she is completely healthy I have sent one into flower a bit early just to see if I could and seems to be working swimmingly