Likes
1
Share
@Dunk_Junk
Follow
I'm thinking another week... Not sure. She's bloody frosty though! 😲
Likes
11
Share
My plant smells really strong :D
Likes
73
Share
@Roberts
Follow
Deep Forest Auto is still moving along. She is still bulking. She has started growing faster with the ph fixed. Starting to see a brow pistils here and there. I can do nothing, but wait. Thank you Doctor's Choice, Gen1:11, and Medic Grow. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.
Likes
9
Share
the headbuds of the rainbow triangle were already harvested with the other plants (Forbidden Nectar and Sunset Kush Pop Clone), as one of the thick headbuds had already a little bit budrod We left the rest of the plant for another week. During this week, the lower buds really put on weight again. The head buds are already dried and will be cured. The rest has now been hung up to dry.
Likes
9
Share
4/26: I top-dressed her pot with about a tablespoon of Happy Frog Cavern Culture and watered it in really slowly with about 1/4 gallon of water and added cal-mag, humic acid, liquid molasses, silica, and I started her on open sesame. Increased Ph to 6.4 to ensure that she can utilize the increased calcium and the P and K I'm giving her. 4/27: I did a little bondage on her today...she was totally compliant!😉 4/29: She is budding up alright, but not stretching...the tangies i've grown in the past were all pretty tall, so I'm a little worried that I stunted her somehow... 5/1: I gave her a little water with cal-mag, boomerang, humic acid, and silica. 5/2: I sprayed her with boomboom spray this morning...grow bitch, grow!
Likes
376
Share
Hello to you all. As a true visionary I decided to go FULL HYDRO this week, that means water in buckets and outside the buckets /s This grow turns out to be an uphill battle but i already decided to bring it to completion no matter what...Icy weather, floods, alien invasions what's coming next a big bank crash?! I bring this grow to the end , who needs banks anyways when you got #coins On 22.02. added nutrients to the 140 liters of solution. That's it, I hope to see y'all next week growmies.
Likes
2
Share
"And God said, Let there be light, and there was light." Genesis 1:3 Inhale for 13s, Exhale for 13s, Inhale for 8s, Exhale for 8s, Inhale for 5s, Exhale for 5s, Inhale for 3s, Exhale for 3s, Inhale for 1s, Exhale for 1s, Alignment. 1.618 More energy, more blueprint. Electrical Conductivity refers to how easily a material or solution allows electrons or ions to flow continuously when an electrical potential is applied. Electrochemical Reactance is the opposition to alternating current (AC) caused specifically by the temporary storage of energy in electric or magnetic fields, rather than energy being lost as heat. Reactance does not directly alter a material's intrinsic electrical conductivity. Instead, it dictates how the system stores and releases energy over time, which creates a temporary barrier to current flow in AC circuits. Together with resistance, reactance makes up total impedance. Electrical impedance (the combination of resistance and reactance) in the rhizosphere dictates how easily ions and water move into plant roots, directly impacting the Electron Transport Rate (ETR). High impedance restricts ion mobility, leading to nutrient deficiencies that decrease ETR and stunt overall plant growth. Using copper and zinc plates in the plant medium to form a natural earth battery to assist with Electrochemical Reactance. The moist soil acts as an electrolyte, while zinc serves as the anode and copper as the cathode. Zinc is a highly reactive metal and oxidizes, losing electrons into the soil. These electrons travel through an external wire to the copper plate. The moisture and dissolved salts in your plant medium allow charged ions to move freely between the plates, completing the circuit and generating a small direct current (usually between 0.8 and 1.1 volts). This micro-current subtly alters/the Electrical Conductivity (EC), allowing more effective breaking apart of chemical bonds in the soil (electrolysis), making soil nutrients like phosphorus, calcium, and potassium more accessible to roots. Buried the zinc plate on one side of the plant’s root zone and the copper plate on the opposite side. Ran an insulated copper wire above ground to connect the zinc plate to the copper plate, creating a closed loop. Make sure your soil remains moist and contains natural mineral salts; entirely distilled water or bone-dry medium will prevent ion exchange and block the current.
Likes
16
Share
She was started for fun because I got her from a plant that I've grown and it when in to seed so I'm growing one and she's do so well.
Likes
66
Share
@mulch
Follow
Slight Changes in nutes: Current feeding FloraMicro 4ml gal FloraBloom 8ml gal SM-90 2.5ml gal Cannazym 2.5ml Gal Ful-Potential 2.5ml gal Liquid Koolbloom 2.5ml gal Floralicious Plus 1ml gal ArmorSI 1ml gal CaliMagic 2.5ml gal FloraNectar 5ml gal Drip Clean 0.4ml gal 9/6/17 A couple VERY LARGE buds tipped over and i didn't notice immediately. I found them and i think i staked them back to health in time, no noticeable damage, more blindsided while realizing the volume and coming to grips with the next step. the reality of the bounty of my garden is dawning on me, and i am a bit intimidated. by the dry, as i am in low RH. by the cure, as i have never done one before. by killing my girls, as they are lovely to ease my anxiety, i ordered 20 hydrometers and increased my jar count from 36 quart jars by adding a dozen 1/2 gallon jars. it is obvious some of the buds need bigger jars to stay intact during the cure. i skipped the boveda packs for now. they are amazon prime away in an emergency, but i figure my attentiveness will be enough, at least this first grow; plenty of people did it right before me without the boveda packs, and when i can pay less per hydrometer than boveda pack... it becomes an interesting decision. i choose old school... for now (mind subject to change) end game is WAY more intimidating than dropping that seed into that cup of water. no one told me it would be this stressful! i hope i do them well during this next phase and these next few weeks. they certainly appear to have done me well 9/7/17 I have a confession to make. When I thought the plants got stunted by the heat, I considered pulling the plants and starting over. Boy an I glad that I didn't. I didn't know what I didn't know. What stopped me was reading a forum post somewhere and a guy was frustrated with his grow and was thinking of pulling it (i think he only had 1 plant). Someone responded to him with very prolific questions. "And then what? Plant another and make the same mistake again? Why don't you finish her out so on your next grow you know better what not to do?" Bingo. He wasn't even talking to me, but he was speaking directly at my situation (or so I thought). I decided to finish them, even if they were stunted dwarfs (SPOILER ALERT: They aren't, I was wrong, they were anything BUT stunted) I am really glad I found that advice because who knows if I would have went through with it if this gentleman hadn't given me a moment of clarity. So if you are frustrated by your first grow, I would advise to finish the grow no matter what (unless, obviously, its a male or moldy or something that DEMANDS the plant be culled) and learn what to do better for next time. I thought mine were gonna be bonzai plants. Not even considering the money wasted and the time wasted, I would have missed out on what the plants have taught me and a tent full of superstars. Now, as I am approaching the end, I need some advice. Aside from trics, is there any other way to determine approx how long left in the grow? I need to change my nutes to end stage stuff (adding dry koolbloom, phasing out unneeded nutes, and finally the flush. ) I am super worried about getting the timing right. Besides trics, are there any other clear signals that we are rounding the corner to the final stretch? Thanks in advance. Also, I live in a dry environment. A desert, actually. For real. It seems like dry trimming will be very important for me if I do not want it to smell like alfalfa after the cure. Any thoughts on dry trimming? I know it is more work, but the results seem better. My plan, so far, is to hang the entire plant upside down in 1 piece to dry. The only question is, how many of the large fan leaves to leave on. Some leave all, some leave only the small ones in the buds. Any thoughts will help me decide along with my other research. Thanks!
Likes
6
Share
Excited for the flowering phase. So far plants seem to be very healthy. They’re stretching noticeably now every day. A few white hairs coming along. Smell isn’t loud seems to be coming along shortly.
Likes
3
Share
@Joaka
Follow
se ve un crecimiento rapido de ambas cepas, se espera que antes de terminar la 3ra semana se aplique el apical a cada una.
Likes
33
Share
@Oyziphar
Follow
FLOWERING First flowering phenomena are visible in the tops of the plants.😜 -------------------------------- GROWTH The plants are still growing rapidly. To keep the size of the plants somewhat at the same height, I use the following techniques: 😷 1. Removal of the side branches (Defoliation) -Small plants: I remove almost all side branches. In this way the small plants do not have to spend energy in the growth of side branches. -Large Plants: I don't remove anything. The plants will put energy into the growth of side branches, so the plants will not grow too fast in height. -Other plants: I remove the side branches in proportion to the size of the plants. In the course of the following days, I gradually remove all low side branches! 2. Tying the branches (Low Stress Training) -The smallest plants grow straight upwards. -The largest plants are tempered in their growth, afterI have tied them to the plant sticks with the help of plastic plant binders. On DAY 5 the plants vary in length between 23 and 41 cm AIR HUMIDITY 😨 When the lights are on, it gets nice and warm in the growing room. To keep the humidity at the desired level, I have two 7.5 liter humidifiers working almost continuously. In less than 24 hours I have to refill them. As long as the plants do not have real buds, I like high humidity so the plants to keep a low VPD. -------------------------------- WATER and NUTRITION 😱 Due to the high humidity, I don't have to give that much water. Every 3 days I give 1.25 liters of water per pot. I add 3 tablets of Easy Grow Booster to 10 liters of water. I divide this mixture between the 8 pots. This week I gave 2 x water.
Likes
Comments
Share
Afghan Original was developed by crossing several Afghani Indica landraces, so there’s only 100% Afghani cannabis genetics behind it. Potent, sturdy and perfect for novice growers as well as more experienced enthusiasts with bigger demands. A resin production champion it can be conveniently used for hasheesh making! Afghan Original has been probated by hundreds of growers and proven a sturdy, fast growing Indica that yields heavily and can sustain minor mishaps. Afghan Original can be regarded as “the very Afghani cannabis” that any devoted stoner feels obliged to try at least once! Mostly grown out of doors, but Afghan Original works for indoor growing just as brilliantly. Perfect choice for hydroponic/aeroponic setups, green houses and even balconies! Provide at least 18-20 litres for a full-size root system if using soil or substrate. Feel free to make Afghan Original cannabis bushier by using any training techniques such as LST, FIM or topping, ScroG or SoG, mainlining or supercropping. About 35-50% increase in yielding can be expected after training! Resistant to molds. Insect pests are guarded away with aggressive hashy stench – another superpower of Afghan Original! Sometimes plants need supports further into flowering to stay vertical (weighy colas). Outdoor harvesting time is late September – early October.