Wie immer in meinem Garten alles tiptop keine Beschwerden von mir!!!!! DANKR FÜRS BETRACHTEN MEINER ARBEIT 😍😘

13.4.25: This week has been so busy in the garden! I forgot to take any notes, so I'll see what I can do from memory! 😅 I watered several times this week, and I used Ecothrive Biosys with dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.4. I watered about 2 litres to each plant. Throughout the week, I've been defoliating all the fan leaves 🍃 The trichomes are looking all milky to me. I stopped watering a couple of days ago, and the pots are totally dry. 14.4.25: Today is Harvest Day! I finally put together my clothes rail, which I'm using to hang my plants on. I purchased a hanging mosquito net for a bed from Amazon. It's black, which will hopefully block out what little light there is in my drying room. Also, to prevent debris from sticking to the buds whilst drying. It hangs from the ceiling so it will just hang over the clothes rail. Additionally, the net will allow good airflow. I put a bit of thought into this method, so I look forward to seeing it in action! 😅 So let's wait a while and find out how much we yielded here! 😃💚✌️🌱👌

A very sunny week that made the plants double in size and grow healthier. I didn't water once this week and the plants are good with it, thanks to @MadeInGermany. Pre-flowering stage has started this week and each day I can see more and more pistils. As I expect the plants to stretch the following 2/3 weeks, I thought some little training would help. So I taped a couple leaves downwards in each plant-the ones that blocked sunlight from sidebranches, that will be bud sites in the future-.

Giorno 6 annaffiata con 2,5L di acqua Giorno 7 defogliazione

starting to see some crowning. nice stretching going on. very happy with how it's all going (except for the wyze camera timelapse, which still stops working halfway through the week) I do have some weird stuff going on with one plant, I'll post some pictures, if anyone has any advice. the only thing I can really find online that looks like this is tobacco mosaic disease, but I don't think it's that. maybe this one plant had a little extra stress or something. I have some of that mosaic looking pattern. it's showing up mostly on one plant, and like two leaves on one other plant. maybe calmag defiency? i guess it can kind of look like that, and my RO system was down for a week or two so I had to use tap water, and to keep EC consistent that meant less nutes for a week or two (that was taken up by the tap water EC of like 150). anyway, super excited. wish i had more to do, but it's pretty much just riding it out at this point. was crazy busy with work this week, i wanted to have got in a good defoliation already but I will get to that this weekend. going to remove everything below a certain point, all the lower leaves and the lower nodes that aren't going to make it to the top. probably going to put a trellis net up as i don't think they are going to be able to support their own weight once they start to really stack. i may do one or two final foliar sprays, all organic stuff, but one last IPM and maybe one amino acid / coconut water / aloe / bloom boost after the defoliation, just to help them bounce back quickly as i'm going to be removing a lot of biomass. all that is organic and there are barely flowers on so i'm not worried about it. getting such a strong lemon scent off these already, skunk is starting to come in. can't wait to get some real flowers on them and for the terps to develop. i'm not going to judge yet, but i think if i was to run these again i wouldn't do quadline. quadline was super interesting to me when I first started growing, but after having a bunch of grows under my belt, really i think my preference is to mostly let them grow natural, maybe supercropping the main cola, but my favorite grows have been the ones i did the least amount of hard training on. not sure why i decided to quadline this run, but i'm happy with the even canopy so it's all good

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Well life came up and i didnt have time to transplant last weekened. probably for the better, as i noticed deficiencys starting to come through on nearly every plant! Not detrimental but few leaves turning color mainly tward bottom. Pretty much same thing dark pruple leaves that crunch and die off. Started treating them with spray and they seemed to love it

Hello Everybody! This is day 8 after switch to 11/13. So we start week 2 of flowering. I brew some compost tea for 36h for them, took about 10l water pH6.5 add 150g Compost, 50g earthworm cast, 20ml Molasses, some liquid seaweed and 30min before finish I add a spoon Mycortrex. Every lady shows the first pistols and is happy  only the biggest one (OG Kush) got a little shock from the switch and the smallest one but the small one was showing some sign of stress also in veg before. Now she looks much better only a little bit lighter than the others. Hope to get the next update also in time, so until next time! Peace the Rasta

comenzamos con la primera semana de vegetación de estas muchachas, hasta ahora todo bien con el proceso, trato que reciban su buena dosis de humedad gracias al Humidificador humipro 4 litros de Garden HighPro. cualquier consulta o recomendación por favor háganmela saber en los comentarios. Saludos!!

🌸 Runtz - Week 1 of Flowering 🌸 🌿 Genetics: Gelato x Zkittlez ⏳ Flowering time: 8–9 weeks 🔥 THC: Around 27% 🌈 Effects: A balanced mix of euphoric uplift and deep relaxation, perfect for both creative moments and evening chill. 🍬 Aroma and flavor: Sweet, fruity candy notes with tropical and creamy undertones. This plant has completely stolen my heart! ❤️ The structure is absolutely stunning - beautifully forming flowers and an abundance of side branches make this one truly special. The way it's shaping up already has me excited for the weeks ahead! The first week of flowering went perfectly under great conditions, and I couldn’t be happier with how she looks at this stage. At the start of the week, I performed lollipopping to ensure that lower branches, where less light reaches, don’t take away energy from the top canopy. Now, she can focus all her strength on producing some buds! Grow Conditions (FLO Week 1): 🌞 Light schedule: 12/12 🌱 PPFD: 750 µmol/m²/s 💧 VPD: ~1.2 kPa Let’s see what week 2 brings! 🚀🔥

end of heat alarm: outside temp is 28˚C, in tent 29°C / 65 rh ____________________________________________ light- and watering schedule: see photos now: 16 plants 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 2 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 1 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup + strategy: 18 seeds 3 x Auto Orange Bud > Dutch Passion (early80's) 3 x Haze Berry Automatic > Royal Queen Seeds (2018) 3 x Auto Euforia > Dutch Passion (late 90's) 2 x Auto Bubblegum > TH Seeds (late 80's) 2 x Original Auto BubbleGum > Fast Buds Company (late 80's) 2 x Strawberry Pie Auto > Fast Buds Company 1 x Gorilla Cookies Auto Seed Stockers (2015) 2 x Auto White Widow x Big Bud > Female Seeds setup: 18 x gronest 2 liter 60 cm x 120 cm x 180 cm (2 x 4) growtent 4 l humidifier 25 watt axial fan 15 watt clip fan ro-filter bath room with a 50 watts room fan (-> carbon filter not necessary) ...and a lot of odds and ends. grow strategy: max yield by stressing with: 1. tiny shoes (2 l fabric pots standing on 3 plastic rings (4 cm) for max oxygen) 2. tiny growspace (18plants on 0.72 sqm) 3. many strains (8 strains) 4. annoying neighbourhood (mixing old - i.e. bubblegum (late 80's) - with young- i.e. hazeberry (2018) - genetics) 5. no stress by light or food or water 6. unintentionally too much food plus: - no lst - no hst - just leaf tucking - positioning bigger strains (euphoria, orange bud, haze berry) or just bigger phenos on less intense light spots (end of tent + edges) - music-rotation: 24 hrs reggae (for sativas) - 24 hrs classicals (because it's scientifically proofed) - 24 hrs traditionals from the hindukush region (for the indicas) max efficiency (min electricity - max yield): - light: 23 h on - 1 h off - keeping the distance of 18" (45 cm) and dimming to the right par (lux) - value depending on growing stages (see sheet: beginning 185 par ( 10000 lux/100 watt )/end 340 par ( 18000 lux/175 watt )) => ends up in approx. 170 watts in average over max 15 weeks temperatur management: - using approx. max. half of what the lamp can do keeps temperature low: my tsl 2000 is pulling max. 360 watts of the wall - i need only 175 watts, results in less temperature than using a 175 watts lamp - adjusting the temperature by using a humidifier outside of tent: blown in humidity is soaking degrees and is transported out by fan, works much better than doing the same with pure air summer extreme: no humidifier: 36°C / 35 rh - with humidifier: 29°C / 65 rh works for 1-2 weeks of real hot summer days, no mould, no signs of stress in two summers germination: seeding in waterglass spraying "basic"-water: ro-water (22 ppm) + calmag to 180 ppm every 4 - 8 hours until sprouted man versus fungus gnat: 5 days before seeding i'm running the tent with "basic"-watered pots as if there were plants inside - led on, fans on, humidifier on. Fungus gnats coming with the soil might take the chance to come out now for breeding. i'm waiting with a 9 mm rifle. in the past i found 6 gnats in 2 of 8 x 50 l biobizz lightmix bags coming out of the soil. i could eliminate every single gnat successfully ;) rotating harvest: the little ones will be harvested completely when ready. at this point only the top branches of the big ones will be cut...and the new (basic-watered) pots of the new grow will move into the tent. 2-3 weeks later the secod half of the big ones will be cut and the second half of the new grow will move in... nutes: biobizz / soil: biobizz lightmix bloom,grow,topmax,activera,algamic + aminopower instead of bio heaven (too expensive) individual feeding schedule/once a week: veg: 200 - 600 ppm bloom: 600 - 900 ppm water: ro-water with: veg: 100-150 ppm calmag bloom: 150 ppm calmag

Another solid week, I've upped the EC of the solution a bit to keep her going as she transitions into flower. Starting to get a sweet smell now and I see a few purple pistils mixed in as well. Things are about to get fun!

Dia 43 desde la germinación y dia 18 desdel trasplante ya se ven bastante cogidas ahora toca darles mucho amor y buena comida para verles crecer bien sanas

Todo bien, seguimos. Próxima semana se cambia el fotoperiodo, se aplicará una defoliación para evitar posibles plagas

Day 2... Defoliation.. Bud growing nicely

Went away for seven days had a friend come by and water the garden Absolutely exploded since I’ve seen them last very pleased with all of the plants except for mystery auto number one. It is disappointing me some but hopefully the top will bring more growth. Can’t wait to see these continued to develop!!!

D63 - The start of another week. I completely forgot to take any pics in time so grabbed a quick one right after the lights were out. I'll post better pics tomorrow. D64 - I watered each girl with 2.5-liters of water @ pH 6.5, and snapped some better pics. ;) D68 - All is well in the tent. I gave each girl 2.5-liters of compost tea @ pH 6.5. I also did some additional defoliation. D69 - The end of the final week of veg. The girls are healthy and vibrant. #1 is starting to get bigger than #2, even though she is one week younger. She is also more thirsty so I gave her around 1.2-liters of water @ pH 6.5 while #2 didn't need any.

Bonjour à tous les padawans et maîtres jedis Jour 57 arrosage avec 2 litres d'eau ph6.3 à laquelle j'ajoute 5 millilitres de Hesi bloom, 2 millilitres de Hesi boost, 2.5 millilitres de Hesi phosphorus et la dose recommandée de supervit par litre d'eau J'effectue aussi une grosse defolliation pour que les buds puissent prendre la lumière