Quarta settimana stanno crescendo ben robuste.ancora 2/3 settimane prima di metterle in fioritura''.... Anche i piccoli peyotes stanno crescendo

Week 4 of flower and we have baby buds. The plant that had to live outside the tent is stretching for the light, but doing well. I open the tent from 7 am -7 pm so she can get some light, but it is not quite right so stretching. Lots of height change and smells are getting stonger but still mild.

in this final stretch I am using only water without any fertilizer.

Gelato x GMO is taking off in the 15 gallon pot, showing rapid growth every day. The Blue MOBs seem to have stopped growing vertically in the 5 gallon buckets and are now filling out existing branches while they all reach for the sun. The 15 gallon Blue MOB seems to still be growing in height as well as filling out existing branches. Heavy rain has been persistent with few days of direct sunlight yet plants are still growing. Massachusetts ended up receiving the tail end of a big storm so I have not had to water them the entire week, the soil has stayed damp and kept the plants hydrated

NOTES: Keeping the pH between 5,8-6,0 and EC at around 1,4-1,6 depending on system. EC at 1,5 seems to be optimal and my measurements are staying pretty steady at that level. Humidity is lowered to around 50% if I can. The tops are now at around 45-60cm height from the soil. Continuing the last heavier defoliation/pruning process that I started yesterday at the end of 2nd flowering week. I saw no signs of mold or any other issues as I went through the plants. After this week I'm going to change the nutrient solutions on the tanks and fill them with fresh nutrients with minor changes: Dropping the amount of Grow from 1,5ml to 0,5ml and increasing the amount of Bloom from 1,5ml to 2,5ml. After the change I'm only going to refill the tanks without adding any Grow and will instead increase the amount of Bloom to 3ml. Propably a one more change of fresh nutrients until flushing with Final Solution prior harvesting. Day64 (19.12.) Some more defoliation focusing on the upper growth revealing bud sites below them and keeping off the moisture. Already got a trash bag almost full of leaves since they've been pretty bushy plants on average. Day65 (20.12.) Continuing the last defoliation process. Day66 (21.12.) Continuing the last defoliation process, pretty satisfied with the results so far. Light penetration and airflow have increased greatly so I don't have to worry that much about humidity or possible mold any longer. Each strain has started flowering, all plants are females and buds have started to develop. Defoliating didn't seem to stress the plants as much as I thought it would. Day67 (22.12.) Day68 (23.12.) Refilled and added some nutrients with a stronger Bloom/Grow -ratio (~4:1) and left my girls to enjoy the Christmas Holidays as I did. I'll be gone for around three days, after that I'll change to new fresh nutrients as I mentioned before. One Ayahuasca Purple seems to be ahead of others, and a few other ones have clearly started to develop some buds too, rest of the plants are following closely behind. Each strain has some truly astonishing individuals, and I think Ayahuasca's have shown most variety between different plants. Overall everything looks pretty good I think. Hopefully can say the same after a couple of days as I come back. Happy holidays everyone! Day69 (24.12.) Day70 (25.12.) I added another Led light to my tent just before the lights turned off. Everything looks amazing!

This week was good plant looks better add root farm bloom 10 ml....what went wrong well making video I snapped a branch off 🤔...tryed honey to try and root it seen on YouTube some guy did it so I tryed need to get clone x or something like that any ideas???

Days 92 - 98 (from sprout) 8/23/24 - 8/29/24 Loompa's Headband x TK fading hard this week - checking trichome color through a 15x loupe, needs more time The Good Shit drinking a gallon of water a day but slowly backed off near end of week - my guess would be a 14-week flowering period for this genotype before harvest quality I'm pretty much watering daily a 1/4 gallon to Blue Nose Pit or less to keep mulch layer from drying out Sweet 16 S1 takes the win for most trichome coverage out of the garden, has the most up-front aroma out of the geno hunt PAR is all over the place on this one and totally messed up, after this week I'll raise the light and focus on the appropriate PAR for canopy of The Good Shit Pest Management slipping too, fungus gnats are repopulating and it seems the ecosystem has encountered a serious imbalance of beneficials and predators that normally kept soil/mulch in-check Plan on short-term remedying this with a top-dress of remaining compost + em bokashi and a moderate drench of EM5 following with repeated treatments of enzymes (tweetmint) Long term solution may need a predator/beneficials kit and/or higher quality vermicompost after knocking them back with enzymes

9/16 88 days old. Beginning of the third week. She has been grown organically up to this point. Today I added some fox farm nuits for early bloom. I have it so I might as well use it. Only going to use for a few weeks. 9/21 did some defoliation and tried to spread her out. She doesn’t have a ton of leaves even though it may look it. She has a lot of branches. I took off a lot of branches before the flip and probably could have taken a lot more. Also fed her Fox Farm Open Seasme. She is growing in living soil and has been organic. However I have the Fox Farm and might as well use it. She is starting to put on some weight.

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

God guys, so mad I am so disappointed. Cookies seedbank -1000 stars. Die brand cost me so much money. Imagine startet with 16 plants now 6/6 lemon cherry pop are ladyboys. 4/6 hollywoods ladyboys the other two know under control but looking already sus. Tie die 1/3 didn’t sprout 1/3 killed today because ladyboy the other one also under control and looking sus. Only last real men fighter is Trump Runtz. It’s so sad grow looked pretty good and know noting left.

Hi all, Grow area updates: So I hit the switch and flipped the light to 12/12 to start week 1 of flower for the master kush. And also raised the scrog net and defoliate a bunch. Blue dream auto: Week 4 flower God her first real good defoliation and and a lollipop on the under the canopy. As you can from the pics. The bud sites are plenty. Plant def got biggger then what I thought it had to be tucked one more good time under the net ended up taking up space where another plant woulda be. Literally had to leave a couple branches still standing do to nowhere for them to go and I’m almost definite they will need assistance standing here in a bit. She literally takes have the flower area by herself. I’m stoked about that. The last pic from the web cam shows about how much I took from each branch For defoliation. Ppm at 900 Master kush photo: 1st week of flower She got pretty y’all over the past week the extra nitrogen grow really helped her have a Maher growth spirt. It got a lil hot this week so some minor leaf curling but nothing major. The new growth coming in looks perfectly fine. She responded well to the femming. So I went ahead and topped all the tops on her and she might get one more at the end of this week. She also got re-tucked under the net. Ppm at about 750. As always #StayKited!

Перевел на цвет. Переодически подгорают листья… никак не пойму с чем это связано…

Muy buenas familia un poquito tarde pero aquí estoy de nuevo a mostrarles como van mis niñas el último riego lo e echó sólo con atazyme en estos momentos estoy haciendo un riego con todos los alimentos y otro sólo con atazyme de momento están engordando bien creo que le pondré algún suplemento para que engorde y endurezca el cogollo de momento me gusta como van ustedes que opinan familia bueno en 7 días estaré por aquí contando les si les e puesto algo más jejeje un abrazo familia paz

03/25/2021 Day#1 more pics later. More lite bending for shaping, looks good gave 2 liters of banana peel tea supposed to be good pk boost throughout flowering period till 2 weeks before harvest so we will see how it works I will be given her tea once a week till week 6 then plain water till chop!

3 are really flowering, one is pre flower and one is still veg. Still all are quite healthy, no signs of seeds so lucky I seemed to have culled the male soon enough. The one I topped once is 2.3m but the ones I topped twice are only about 2 meters and started flowering first. Finally it is sunny and the plants are loving it. Looks like I have another 4-6 weeks of flowering before I can harvest

At the end of the 6 week of bloom the blackberry cake feminised is holding up. Her bloom is not that fruit full as was lacking the essential nutrients to achieve that. Although the lady is blooming nicely. Her leaves have faded due to the lack of nutrients. The calyxes on the flowers have continued to swell, the pistols are dulling with the plant producing try chromes and bud formation. The blackberry cake feminised stands at approximately 69cm ta

It was a week with a lot of activity. First of all, she had her first full week of flowering and did a bit of a stretch. Also I switched her to the left side of the tent, to space the plants more evenly. We are getting to a canopy, although one of her roommates probably is male and will be removed. More about this when I update my Xtrakushh Diary. Also had time to fit the scrognet. It fits way better than last grow, much tighter. We had some problems with the lighting. I probably hit my timer with one of my sausage fingers, making my lights turn on in the middle of the night, thank god I found it out in time. They maybe had an hour or two of light for one night. Still something she really doesn't need with this strains tendency to hermie under stress. She still looks happy. Did some gentle leaf tucking, some LST under the net, and a little defoliation. The branches might be short but they are very sturdy and should be able to carry large and heavy buds. And we had won the @Sweet_Seeds Halloween give-away and got to choose three of their legendary strains: Tropicanna Poison, Red Hot Cookies and Runtz XXL auto!! Thanks guys!!! We shall see where it leads... Thank you for checking in again and don't forget the Black Friday Superdeals on https://www.mars-hydro.com!! See you at other diaries or next week! Hug Bud and Sunshine