Hey now, this week went pretty good, the buds are about done bulking up, and just waiting on the trichomes, I was really hoping she would be about ready, but I think she needs another week to week and a half total. The buds are rock hard, and super sticky. I have no clue what she will yield because the colas are not that thick, but there are definitely alot of them. I plan to squeeze her into rosin, and hopefully I can break the 25% mark for the first time with her, but we will see. Thanks for stopping by, I hope you enjoy the videos, Happy Memorial Day Family, Stay Safe and Blaze On!!!

Week 8 Here came fall. End of last week plant seemed hungry, the fade wasn't progressing as supposed so I gave her two nutes round with only water round in between them. I used bottled feeding: biobizz biobloom + top max (2ml each per liter), ghe ripen (2ml per liter), solved micronutrients and calmag (not mixed, one time one the next the other, 1-0,5 ml per lt). Solution EC was about 1,4, starting with 0,3 tap water. She reacted well to the feeding in my opinion. now the fade is progressing more naturally. I did observe that the plant under the less powerful COBS in the same tent are doing better then the ones under the sp250 wich has a higher par output, so I raised the light to 45-50cm from canopy. This had a positive effect on the plants imho. I'll stay a little bit further from the beginning in my next grow. I took a sample under the microscope to take some tricho pictures, they look beautifully clouded but the buds still has to ripen some 50% more. Based on that I think we are arriving to an end in 10-15 days max. Happy bottanic guys

Klein und kräftig. Ich hoffe sie holt noch im Stretch ein wenig auf :D Ansonsten stell ich sie einfach höher. Gelbtafeln und Blautafeln hinzugefügt.

Just keep watering as it drys. Supporting buds along the way that are getting too heavy. Smells like skunk and gas. Little fruit but not much. Trics still getting thick. Look forward to it finishing. Tricomes still cloudy. Little amber on sugar leaves but it's still going strong. Some leave fading finally to fall colors.

6/9 I can't believe it but I had faith. The transplant yesterday LOOKED like it was fucked. I cleaned it up though and left it outside. This morning it was standing straight up. Both transplants were! I put tarps up to block the wind tunnel between buildings. It's still overcast and rainy. Sun isn't supposed to come out for a couple poke days. Chance of thubder storms tomorrow but I'm going to try to get everyone in their forever homes today. Or at least most of them. I plan to light dep a few right in the 3 gallon. I'm sure I'll be updating this after I get some work done. UPDATE: I WENT OVER AND GOT THREE MORE TRANSPLANTED. THAT MEANS FIVE ARE OUTSIDE IN THE CAGE. TWO 10TH PLANET, 2 BLUEBERRY CHEESE AND A LITTLE PURPLE PUNCH. THE 3 GALLON POTS WERE RELATIVELY HEAVY SO I PICKED THE LIGHTER ONES TO TRANSPLANT. I LEFT THE ORHER TWO 10TH'S IN THE GARAGE WITH THE DOOR OPEN WITH THE REMAINING PLANTS. I ALSO ADDED WIND BREAKS AND SUPPORTS TO EVERYTHING. I WANTED TO GET EVERUTHING DONE TODAY BUT THERE MAY BE A THUNDER STORM SO IF I DONT GET IT DONE ITS NOT A BIG DEAL AND ILL FINISH TOMORROW. TRANSPLANTS WENT SMOOTH. I THINK THEY'LL GO EVEN SMOOTHER IF THEY DRY OUT A BIT. STILL HAVE THE 50 AND 40'S TO FILL. Took a bunch of videos but the don't want to load. I'll have to try tomorrow or later tonight. UPDATE: I TOOK TONS OF PICTURES AND VIDEOS BUT THEY DONT WANT TO SEEM TO UPLOAD. IVE GOT SIX IN THERE FINAL HOMES OUTDOORS 20s and 30 gallon smart pots. Still have massive plants but I'm going to out those in the 50 and the 40. I'll finish this shit up tomorrow and get all the girls in their forever homes and if I don't have room for some I was planning on doing a light dep anyway so that will work out good. I learned a lot and transplanting went a lot smoother todsy than before. I feel really proud of myself. The last Transplant I did break a few leaves off that I didn't notice but whatever. I used tomato cages for suppirt on two and bamboo poles and string on the others. I'll add the vertical trellis as they grow. I'm proud of myself. 6/10 I got a lot done yesterday. Six are outside already. Two are in 20s in the garage. I'm planning on transplanting the rest today or tomorrow. I'll update later. Accidently uploaded lots of stuff on the wrong week. UPDATE: I TRANSPLANTED THAT SUPER TALL PURPLE PUNCH THAT I DIDNT TOP OR HST AT ALL INTO A 40 GALLON TUB. ROOTS WERE DRY AND THIS TIME IT ACTUALLY LOOKED LIKE THEY FELL AWAY. THE PLANT HOWEVER STAYED STANDINGVUP FINE. I THINK THIS PHENO IS GOING TO BE A TOUGH ONE. LOOKS GOOD LIKE AN HOUR LATER. I HAD THE 50 READY TO TRANSPLANT THIS MONSTER BLUEBERRY CHEESE I FIMed BUT THE POTS WERE SUPER HEAVY AND I FIGURED I NEEDED TO SLOW DOWN AND THINK. WE HAVE THUNDER STORMS COMING TONIGHT. TOMORROW IS GOOD. I MAY TRY TO FINISH UP TONIGHT BUT WE SHALL SEE. THE GOOD THING WITH DOING IT A FEW AT A TIME IS THAT IF SOMETHING HAPPENS OUTSIDE IVE STILL GOT A CROP INSIDE LOL. WHAT IM PLANNING TO DO IS EITHER LIGHT DEP THAT BIG BLUEBERRY CHEESE OR PUT IT IN THE FIFTY BUT IM PLANNING TO LIGHT 3 RIGHT IN THEIR 3 GALLON CONTAINERS. HAVENT DECUDED FOR SURE BUT IM THINKING THATS WHATS GOING TO HAPPEN.......of course videos won't upload and the ones that do are old videos. Damn. I need to sharpen my computer skills....and my growing skills. Especially transplanting. I suck at transplanting. I decided not to out all my eggs in one basket and left the 10th planet amd Blue berry cheese in the 20s in the garage. I pulled them out for light further but I'm ousting them back a little tonight. That way I'll have a back up if something catastrophic happens. I doubt it but better safe than sorry. I'm proud of what I've accomplished thus far. I've successfully uploaded my 1 minute plus video several times but it won't appear. Oh well. I'll try to load the videos tomorrow I guess. Just started raining. Just a light rain. Probably what fresh transplants like. 6/11 BEAUTIFUL outside. Today is the day. Most is done and I'll add the supports as trellis as they grow. This new grow space gets about twice as much sun as my old spot. The tar stops the burrowing insects. I'm getting everything out today. I just need to decide if I'm going to light dep that MASSIVE blueberry cheese or bite the bullet and put it in the fifty. Maybe I'll try to get some help from my cousin. Plants withstood the thunderstorm like Champs. I'll update as the day goes on. I planned better this year so I SHOULDN'T have an unmanageable jungle. UPDATE: WATERED THE 3 PLANTS LEFT IN THE 3 GALLONS (1 10th PLANET WITH GREAT BRANCH STRUCTURE AND TWO PURPLE PUNCH THAT WERE THE SMALLER ONES. IM GOING TO LIGHT DEP THEM. EVERYTHING IS OUTSIDE NOW IN A MIX OF 1/3 FOX FARM OCEAN FOREST, HAPPY FROG AND ROOTS ORGANIC 707 IN EQUAL PARTS. TRANSPLANTED WITH MYKOS. EVERYTHING IS OUTSIDE NOW. FINALLY DECIDED TO GET The MONSTER BLUE CHEESE I FIMed INTO ITS FOREVER HOME A 50 FALLON POT. IT WAS TGE EASIEST BEST TRANSPLANT OF THEM ALL. JUST LIKE AETTING A POT IN THE WHOLE. I DONT EVEN THINK THE PLANT NOTICED. ONE OF THE PURPLE PUNCHES HAD ROOTS OB ONE OF ITS LEAVES WHEN I LOOKED BUTVIT WAS STILL STANDING UO STEAIGHT. I KNOW SOME OF THE PLANTS LOOK DROOPY BUT WEVE HAD SEVERAL DAYS OF RAIN AND A MASDIVE THUNDER STORM. I BROUGHT OUT THE EARLIER TRANSPLANTS AS WELL. THEY ARE OUT OF THE SHOCK. WIND IS PRETTY HIGH BUT I DONT WANT TO ADD MORE TARPS. I THINK THINGS ARE SECURED GOOD ENOUGH FOR NOW. IM SUPER STOKED THAT TRANSPLANT WENT SO GOOD! Went back at 7:30pm. Some plants have a little bit of transplant shock and a little bit of burn but it's negligible considering they've been through a thunderstorm with pouring rain and extremely high winds. That blueberry cheese in the 50 transplanted so easy and still looks like it didn't even know the difference. I'll start light dep once I get a plan. Plants are recovering nicely but should something happen to one I could replace it. I'm interested in the light dep though and I've got a pretty good idea how to start. 6/12 The plants that had a little transplant shock are coming out of it. We had a thunderstorm and pouring rain the day of some of the transplants. Wasn't forecasted. High winds moved the plants around a bunch bit they are tough as hell. Everything is out now. Suppisedcto have showers the next few days. I'm putting together a feeding schedule abd setting up a spit to start light dep on the three plants I decided to flower early. The cage now gets twice as much sun as before. This is going to be a good year. Went back over and plants are perking up and doing even better everytime I see them. I took a video but it might not upload until tomorrow. I may start a new diary for the light dep. I have a few places I'm thinking to use for light dep. I need to make a solid plan before I start so maybe a day or two. Trying to upload again but I doubt it. 6/13 Had a rushed morning but I watered the plants in the 3 gallons as they were dry. I had added more soil to a couple of the bags. The top soil is startingvtj dry out but the plants look good and we are supposed to get rain so I don't really want to water if it's going to be raining. I think I've found my light dep spot and schedule. I'll update after I do something. WENT BACK OVER AND SPRAYED A LITTLE BIT OF WATER ON THE EXTREMELY DRY TOPSOIL THAT I HAD TOPPED SOME OF THE PLANTS OFF WITH. SHITTY THING IS THAT WAS ADDED AFTER THE THUNDER STORM SO IT MAKES IT HARDER TO JUSTE THE PLANTS WATERING NEEDS. I CAN TELL THAT ONE OFCTHE FIRST TEANSPLANTS IS STILL HOLDING WATER. I MEAN WE GOT A DOWNPOUR AND I DONT WABT TO WATER IF WE'RE GOING TO BE GETTING RAIN ANYWAY. IM GOING TO LOOK BACK OVER THE DIARY. THATS ONE GREAT THING ABOUT THESE. YOU CAN GO BACK AND CHECK YOUR WORK. 6/14 Glad I held off watering. It's raining today. Just showers. We haven't gotten any of that extreme wind we usually do. I have the plants supported but I still worry. Definitely more than I should. Plants are still doing good and acclimating to there homes. I have not started the light dep with the 3 gallons but I think I've found my spot. Once I start it will just be staying consistent putt8ng them in and out. I need to train them anyway. I have some research to do and a joint to smoke so I'll update later.

Rempotage en 13 litres, pleine santé rien a signaler, jolie feuille fine et pointues avec de belles dentelure bien prononcé , plantes très élancé, les sept sont très belles, encore une semaine ou deux et floraison et j'ai hâte de voir sa ! #kannabia #madamegrow #trolmaster

Starting week 3 with good growth on all three plants but plant 3 is doing the best, she has the longest branches and I've tried them downwards. I also trimmed-off the lowest leaves and branch/future bud sights. The girls look good and I look forward to another week of progress.

Blacky reacts quit well on my low stress training. It‘s raining and raining…🤨

Drying in cardboard box hopefully it dries well and I'll be curing in mason jars

Growing good don’t trip.

9.7. Smell changed from a mix of orange and maracuja to a whole multi vitamin juice kind of flavor over night. Under the loupe I can spot the odd amberish trichome, maybe by mishandling , but most are milky or clear, still producing more fresh ones. 12.7. A bunch of trichomes developing an amber hue. Also the leaves are turning yellow now. Harvest Window is open now, wanna see some more amber, but not too much. Mainly hoping for thicker buds.

Streatched the main-colas from day to day a bit more while they grow to the outside, now the inner section gets light and a lot of new buds can develop to a nice size. But the plant is taking over the space. Have made a tee from the leaves of teh last weeks and some kitchenherbs, and then made some leaffeading with 1:5 ratio with the tea in the evening with it. Also i gave her half Liter of ( extra to her 1L Nutri in the morning). Repeated the Tea with 1L in higher concentration after a few days.

Popped 20 seeds and all seemed to be fine. I encountered a problem with one of the pink kush seeds. It seems to be sprouting with a very small root and it released itself from its seed shell in the paper towel. It died I have tasted all the strains except the G 13 Haze. So i hope to get 1 or 2 good plants. Especially from the Pink kush and orange sherbert. 10x Pink Kush, 5x Orange Sherbert, 2x Cookies Kush, 2x G13 Haze and 1x Utopia Haze. Growing in biobizz Coco mix. Using a soil nutrient for the first week or two

Ein paar Tage nicht da und dann solche Büsche im Zelt. Das hieß heute gehts ran ans defolieren und Scrognetz einspannen. Habe heute morgen erstmal eine Ladung Wasser mit Cal/Mag und etwas algamic gegossen und die Lampe höher gehängt. Heute abend ging es dann direkt ans defolieren, da ich ehrlich gesagt, die Woche sonst wenig Zeit finden werde. Jetzt sollen Sie sich erholen und ins Scrog einfügen. Die GSC ist mit Abstand das Biest im Zelt, unglaubliches Wachstum

Week 1 of flower hydro and organics

Transplant is done into 10L pots! 9 pots are filled with a living soil mix, enriched with Lurpe Farmers Mix, Insect Frass, and other organic amendments The rest are in a lighter soil mix, so I can supplement them with Biobizz nutrien This run is experimental 🔬 — I want to compare how the two approaches perform. If all goes well, in about 10 days we’ll flip to flowering 🌸🌞. So far, the girls are looking strong and healthy! 💪🌿✨

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

📅 Week 11 | 🗓️ Day 71–77 Day 77 – Week 3 til 4 of flower 🌸Papayton 🏀 🔸This week the girls really started packing it on. Buds are swelling up nicely, calyxes are stacked, and those creamy white pistils are shooting out everywhere like little antennas. The sugar leaves are already frosting up heavy – trichomes glisten under the light, and you can tell the resin production is kicking into high gear. Colas are shaping up, and it’s clear where the big towers are gonna form. 🔸The foliage continues to look healthy: a rich green color with no signs of over-fertilization, no claws, and no noticeable deficiencies. The sugar leaves are already well coated with resin, which is a very good sign. The pictures show that the flower structure is growing compactly and vigorously—the plant is in full flow. I will give her BIO PK again for the next watering. She looks like she could use a little more. 🔸The SANlight is now running constantly at 100% with a distance of approx. 35 cm (approx. 1000 PPFD). To ensure that it produces more heat, I have positioned it slightly higher. The leaves appear relaxed and show no signs of stress. The climate remains stable, albeit slightly cool, during the day I achieve almost perfect values of 1.4-1.6 VPD, slightly less on very cool days., but the flowers look very fresh and compact as a result. Good air circulation ensures that the fine resin heads do not become damp. Climate is right in the sweet spot too: 📈 average daily values 🌡️ Temp = 25 - 26 °C 💨 Humidity = 50 - 55 % 🌬️ VPD = 1.40 - 1,60 kPa That’s pretty much perfect – low enough RH to keep mold away, but still comfy for the plants. Fans are running on level 5, dehu is on for more temp. All in all, a super stable week. Plants are cruising, stacking, and starting to pack on that frost. Things are about to get really fun from here. 🚀 🛠️ Setup (unchanged) 💡 2 x SANlight Evo 4-120 on 100% ⛺ 120 x 120 x 180 Spiderfarmer tent 🍯 Pots: 18L fabric pots 🌱 Soil: Bio-Bizz Light Mix 💊 Nutrients: BIO Tabs 📉 ECOWITT Gateway GW1200 🖍️ ECOWITT WH51 Soil Moisture Sensor

Cc#1 wet = 14.62oz Trimmed=1.92oz Cc#2 wet =22.22oz Cc#3 wet =26.39oz. The last four crystal candies are getting an ice bath for 48 hrs then cut down to dry. I will re update my weeks when further weight is taken and I’ll re update the final product. She’s got lots of fruity notes with a little gas and earthy smell. First plant was cut down early and has cured for a week now and is more of an energetic high as flavors still continue to flourish as curing continues. Definitely a happy moment for me seeing as this is my first grow